I don't see it mentioned here, but in my experience, Camber is something you want to watch telemetry for, not guess, or set to any particular number. The posts here seem to indicate you should just set this to a negative number on front / rear and be done with it, but it's not that simple. The amount of camber you need differs wildly from car to car, just like in real life, because of varying suspension designs, torsion beam, vs MacPhearson, versus independent, versus dual a-arm, and so on. For instance, a modern Lotus Elise, and other similar cars built for track racing with independent suspension, will have more consistent camber necessary between front and rear and less of it needed too (about -0.4 on both IIRC), but an old Trans Am might need -1.5 in the front and -0.7 in the rear, due to the very different suspension design front and rear, and it being an "inferior" design for racing. I find it rare that any car needs more than about -1.8 in the front.
You can actually dial in camber perfectly for each car, if you watch the telemetry screen - and this makes a HUGE difference to max grip in high speed corners. I find it to be pretty easy and it's one of the first things I do when tuning a car.
All you have to do is go to the telemetry screen that shows on screen degrees of camber for each wheel. Then go to a track with long, sweeping, high speed corners (I like WGI, as I know it best too). Watch the OUTSIDE tire in the turn. During a high speed, sustained, max G turn (basically full suspension loading), you want the camber to be as close to zero as possible on that outside tire, but still just a little negative (you want it to never go positive). I usually aim for about -0.20 on front and rear outside tires - that gives a little wiggle room to stay negative, but not SO negative that you're losing grip (too negative is just as bad as not negative enough!). Again, you have to do this during high speed, high G turns. Watch the camber numbers thru out the whole turn, start, apex, and finish. It should never go positive, and if it does, only if you hit a curb or bump. Basically take an average. It comes easy with practice, should only have to hit a few turns to get a good baseline. Check it at each corner on the track.
Remember to check and set this again if you change ride height, or tire size, or even other grip mods (tire type, etc), as being able to throw more grip on the car means you'll load the suspension more, and changing tire width can change tire to track angles. In fact, check it once you're done with all other adjustments (roll bar, spring weight etc), as it's easy to verify it's still in spec.
Do this and you'll get a lot more grip!
Edited by user Tuesday, February 2, 2016 12:56:17 PM(UTC)
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