Originally Posted by: xDeaDxZeppLiNx 
Hey, i know this thread has gone quiet for a couple of days, but with the telemetry being used for the basis of your info, Rabbits, is there a thread or something that can kinda break down how to read what's what on the screen? I know tire temp, and camber, and all the stuff thats right there, but like the friction graph, or suspension offset screen, ...and how to take what that is showing and fix from there. I kinda feel like i have fallen down the rabbit hole of putting too much thought into everything, now i am getting confused by numbers and formulas. Just curious.
Right so the best version of the formula I've posted is
4xpi squared X frequency X square root weight per corner (in KG) X travel squared. That gives you your "optimum Spring stiffness"
With the Offset you can to use as much of the travel as possible without bottoming out, endo on the breaks, wheel stand launches and the rest of it. If you look at what's going on when you set you springs to fully stuff the car becomes snappy and bouncy, it'll also relate to the friction graphs in that you'll see much smaller circles which shows you're generating little mechanical grip.
Do the opposite and you'll find much more pitch and roll through weight transfer which will load the 2 tyres the weight is being transferred to while unloading the others. This is just as undesirable.
What you need to be doing is setting your springs up to balance and and make that tranfsfer of weight more progressive and balance the grip levels between the tyres. We do that using the Bump, ARBs and then Rebound in small increments.
So to start with you'll be increasing your bump and decreasing the ARBs in equals. 1 click on the bump is equal to 2 on the ARB. Once your read outs are nice and steady, you'll then start to increase your rebound.
Bump stiffness stops the wheel smashing the arches, rebound pounds the wheel back into the ground. If you run a stiffer bump you want a softer rebound as you need less force to push the wheel back into the ground or you'll have a set up that's too stiff and skims the surface because you effectively shorten the travel, which will again relate to the friction graph.
You want smooth pulses on the offset, and stability on the friction graph. Body roll isn't a bad thing so long as it's controlled. It's important to have the right level of camber for the car to roll onto.
More roll means more camber and a lower caster less roll means less camber and a higher caster to maximise mechanical grip. If you want a good example of what I mean have a look at the read outs on my Ferrari 250 GT Lusso I've put up for testing as the NBR "need a fast driver" thread.
You'll find 3 versions of the car 1 on race tyres 2 on stock, all 3 have different set ups to make the most of the grip available, all have minimal aero.
Edited by user Monday, October 26, 2015 5:28:35 AM(UTC)
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