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Rank: Driver's Permit
#26 Posted : Monday, September 21, 2015 9:50:58 PM(UTC)
I came across this method the other day for calculating springs and ARB, I used it on 3/4 cars and it worked well. However as I've only just started seriously tuning cars I'd like to know if it holds any weight with you guys.


1. Perform any upgrades you wish to perform on your car.
2. Press Y on either the upgrade or garage screen to get detailed info on your car. Take note of the WEIGHT (in lbs.) and WEIGHT FRONT (%) numbers.
3. Subtract your WEIGHT FRONT (or WF as I will now refer to it) from 100. This will give you your WEIGHT REAR (WR from now on). Take note of this number.
4. Now for the tuning. They should be done in the order they're listed. By the way, the benchmark screen shouldn't be used as a definitive reflection of performance, it's only a guideline.
SPRINGS
a. WEIGHT x 0.4 = Total Spring Rate (TSR). Round to the nearest decimal.
b. TSR x WF = Front Spring Rate (FSR). Round to the nearest decimal and set your front springs accordingly.
c. TSR x WR = Rear Spring Rate (RSR). Round to the nearest decimal and set your rear springs accordingly.
RIDE HEIGHT
a. This setting isn't absolute, but I've found that two notches left of center works quite well.
ANTI-ROLL
a. TSR x .0115 = Anti-roll Total Setting (ATS). Round to nearest decimal.
b. ATS x WR = Front setting. Round to nearest decimal.
c. ATS x WF = Rear setting. Round to nearest decimal.
(note: make sure the front and rear settings add up to the ATS)
BRAKING
Set your brake setting to the same percentage as your WR.


As I said this is totally not my formula, just copied and pasted from another site. My question is does this apply to you guys. I did just notice the post is very old indeed though.
Rank: C-Class Racing License
#27 Posted : Tuesday, September 22, 2015 12:58:18 AM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: TheMapleKid Go to Quoted Post
I came across this method the other day for calculating springs and ARB, I used it on 3/4 cars and it worked well. However as I've only just started seriously tuning cars I'd like to know if it holds any weight with you guys.


1. Perform any upgrades you wish to perform on your car.
2. Press Y on either the upgrade or garage screen to get detailed info on your car. Take note of the WEIGHT (in lbs.) and WEIGHT FRONT (%) numbers.
3. Subtract your WEIGHT FRONT (or WF as I will now refer to it) from 100. This will give you your WEIGHT REAR (WR from now on). Take note of this number.
4. Now for the tuning. They should be done in the order they're listed. By the way, the benchmark screen shouldn't be used as a definitive reflection of performance, it's only a guideline.
SPRINGS
a. WEIGHT x 0.4 = Total Spring Rate (TSR). Round to the nearest decimal.
b. TSR x WF = Front Spring Rate (FSR). Round to the nearest decimal and set your front springs accordingly.
c. TSR x WR = Rear Spring Rate (RSR). Round to the nearest decimal and set your rear springs accordingly.
RIDE HEIGHT
a. This setting isn't absolute, but I've found that two notches left of center works quite well.
ANTI-ROLL
a. TSR x .0115 = Anti-roll Total Setting (ATS). Round to nearest decimal.
b. ATS x WR = Front setting. Round to nearest decimal.
c. ATS x WF = Rear setting. Round to nearest decimal.
(note: make sure the front and rear settings add up to the ATS)
BRAKING
Set your brake setting to the same percentage as your WR.


As I said this is totally not my formula, just copied and pasted from another site. My question is does this apply to you guys. I did just notice the post is very old indeed though.


Where did you find that, it's pretty interesting might give it a look.

Umm the formula for ARB doesn't.... Made a difficult Ferrari 458 undrivable and that's the first time ever I've managed to roll a car on a flat track which while it was entertaining isn't a trait I was looking for lol 😂

Edited by user Tuesday, September 22, 2015 1:58:13 AM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Formerly SparcoRacing91

Owner of TopCenterRacing UK

Proud Support Sponsor of EKS World Rallycross
Rank: D-Class Racing License
#28 Posted : Tuesday, September 22, 2015 2:05:11 AM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: Manual Clutch Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: SM0K0ZUNA Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: About500Rabbits Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: SM0K0ZUNA Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: Bail3y87cjb Go to Quoted Post
Pressure
29.5
30.0

Camber
-1.5
-1.0

Toe
-0.5
0.0

Caster
5.5

ARB
18
15

Springs
Reduce by about 25%

Ride height
Minimum

Rebound
Divide total by 3 then take that away

Bump
Same as above

Aero
Decrease at the front to about 63
Rear Increas to 147

Diff
Rear 30/35
Front 90/70
4WD
20/10
40/30
65%

flash tunes! haha

I've used this guideline a while, obvioulsy you can tweak stuff around later but they usually get decent lap times in and quite good for a mulitplayer race or 2 :)


is that -0.5 toe on the front? i have never seen a tune with negative toe on the front. that would make the car understeer terribly no? just curious


Looking at the rest of the setting it'll only slow the response and ruin the front tyres because with the basic set up on the rear its set more towards oversteer so if anything it could work in his favour by making it more controllable.... It'll trash the tyres, braking and acceleration. I could be wrong here it'd be interesting to try on more snappy cars like the lotus F1 car to see the extreme side of that kind of toe.



want to point out i am not criticizing, just curious is all.


I'll point out that it's the ugliest flash tune I've ever seen. lol



Trust me try it :p i can run top 100 times in the flash tunes i run, i know the leaderboards arent much to go by right now, plus without damage your tires arent going to wear, just make sure they dont over heat :)
Rank: C-Class Racing License
#29 Posted : Tuesday, September 22, 2015 3:27:06 AM(UTC)
Well it fixed all the oversteer in my 458 but it's now packing miles and miles of understeer... Which I can dial back out in no time at all but. That is kind of clever. Really slows the front end down nicely makes it much easier to modulate steering in out I a controller instead of snapping into the turn...

Kind of has me wondering now..... Tyres don't wear any faster, according to the telemetry they're suffering less wear both front and rear... Tears I understand because they're not skating across the surface anymore... Fronts however I don't get.

Temps are normal pressures are extreme wear is improved.. Anyone have a theory for that besides T10 not getting the algorithm right??

Edit: This guy right here just gave me the idea that solved my problems with the Ferrari 458.

Edited by user Tuesday, September 22, 2015 3:55:19 AM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Formerly SparcoRacing91

Owner of TopCenterRacing UK

Proud Support Sponsor of EKS World Rallycross
Rank: Driver's Permit
#30 Posted : Tuesday, September 22, 2015 4:23:50 AM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: About500Rabbits Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: TheMapleKid Go to Quoted Post
I came across this method the other day for calculating springs and ARB, I used it on 3/4 cars and it worked well. However as I've only just started seriously tuning cars I'd like to know if it holds any weight with you guys.


1. Perform any upgrades you wish to perform on your car.
2. Press Y on either the upgrade or garage screen to get detailed info on your car. Take note of the WEIGHT (in lbs.) and WEIGHT FRONT (%) numbers.
3. Subtract your WEIGHT FRONT (or WF as I will now refer to it) from 100. This will give you your WEIGHT REAR (WR from now on). Take note of this number.
4. Now for the tuning. They should be done in the order they're listed. By the way, the benchmark screen shouldn't be used as a definitive reflection of performance, it's only a guideline.
SPRINGS
a. WEIGHT x 0.4 = Total Spring Rate (TSR). Round to the nearest decimal.
b. TSR x WF = Front Spring Rate (FSR). Round to the nearest decimal and set your front springs accordingly.
c. TSR x WR = Rear Spring Rate (RSR). Round to the nearest decimal and set your rear springs accordingly.
RIDE HEIGHT
a. This setting isn't absolute, but I've found that two notches left of center works quite well.
ANTI-ROLL
a. TSR x .0115 = Anti-roll Total Setting (ATS). Round to nearest decimal.
b. ATS x WR = Front setting. Round to nearest decimal.
c. ATS x WF = Rear setting. Round to nearest decimal.
(note: make sure the front and rear settings add up to the ATS)
BRAKING
Set your brake setting to the same percentage as your WR.


As I said this is totally not my formula, just copied and pasted from another site. My question is does this apply to you guys. I did just notice the post is very old indeed though.


Where did you find that, it's pretty interesting might give it a look.

Umm the formula for ARB doesn't.... Made a difficult Ferrari 458 undrivable and that's the first time ever I've managed to roll a car on a flat track which while it was entertaining isn't a trait I was looking for lol 😂


Off ign website Rabbit
Rank: S-Class Racing License
#31 Posted : Thursday, October 1, 2015 11:14:58 AM(UTC)
Lots of different ideas in here... thanks for taking the time to help others out!
Rank: Driver's License
#32 Posted : Thursday, October 1, 2015 6:01:25 PM(UTC)
Thanks for these posts fuys. This is info I really needed to understand and this has helped a lot being a new tuner. I can't wait to try some of these.
Rank: X-Class Racing License
#33 Posted : Monday, October 5, 2015 7:45:28 PM(UTC)
Here are my 2 cents based on what I learned on FM5, which by the way, was my first-ever game and started tuning around 6-to-9 months after its release.

Tires: 28.5 / 28.5

Camber: -3.3 / -2.8

Toe: +0.1 / -0.1

Caster: 5.0

ARB: Usually they start at like 27 Front and 23 Rear so i simply move the front ARB down to 21 or so

Springs: I use 45% of total weight, and, use the weight distribution (ex. 52% F / 48% R) as a starting point. So basically....Weight X 0.45 X 0.52 for front, Weight X 0.45 X 0.48 for rear.

Ride height: 2 to 3 clicks from minimum, and now on FM6 I am usually using this as a weight distribution element, so, 2 to 3 clicks from maximum

Aero: Max the majority of time, unless I need a little more turn-in from the rear of the car

Damping: Rebound default +2 and Bump default -3

Brake: 44% balance and 140% force

Diff 25-35% Accel and 10-16% Decel


Then I start the tedious process to tune for the specific car/track/class. Since I am relatively new to tuning, I try MANY things. Yet, most important and where I spend most of my time is on the build.
.


DJ Saoco
Rank: C-Class Racing License
 1 user liked this post.
#34 Posted : Tuesday, October 6, 2015 4:30:25 AM(UTC)
For a supper quick RWD "FLASH" tune - don't tune it, build it:

Build
1) Sport suspension & brakes
2) Race weight reduction
3) Race ARBs
4) Tire compound & width to get the grip (lateral g) you are looking for
5) Transmission with the lowest PI
6) Roll cadge & Forza aero if they lower PI
7) Add as much power without adding weight as the class will allow
8) Lightest drive shaft to round out the PI

Tune
1) Go for a test drive and slide the car around alot to overheat the tires and watch the hud. Set tire pressure so the tires heat/cool evenly inside-out/outside-in. If the middle cools last -> reduce pressure.
2) Understeer -> reduce front ARB and increase rear ARB by equal parts, Oversteer = opposite. Get too far from default and it starts to mess with the sport dampers getting in/out of corners so go-to #3.
3) If it grossly under/over-steers go back and change front to rear tire width. Oversteer -> wider rear & narrower front.

Optional
4) If required put on the race differential and start with the sliders approximating stock settings (not default)
5) Trade stock wheels for something in the 17/18 inch category using rear size and drive shaft to get equivalent or less weight.
6) Trade power for more adjustable parts as required. i.e. Race brakes, they cost alot but drop a lot of weight and can occasionally be worth the PI.
7) Rebuild with a different motor/aspiration. i.e. 5.7L and centrifugal supercharger if available.
8) Go to rivals and set some target times to race against as you search for improvements.

Race and enjoy your 5 min tune,
Crash

D and below works well with stock suspension, brakes, & front ARB.

Edited by user Thursday, October 8, 2015 1:24:48 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Rank: X-Class Racing License
#35 Posted : Tuesday, October 6, 2015 6:54:56 AM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: RelaxedPRKid Go to Quoted Post


Since I am relatively new to tuning, I try MANY things. Yet, most important and where I spend most of my time is on the build.

.


Originally Posted by: crash220 Go to Quoted Post


For a supper quick RWD "FLASH" tune - don't tune it, build it:

Crash


+1

.


DJ Saoco
Rank: Driver's Permit
#36 Posted : Tuesday, October 6, 2015 9:41:55 AM(UTC)
I'm interested to see some flash tunes for AWD. I'd put mine here but not at home atm.
Nowadays known as SRT FancyFace
Rank: S-Class Racing License
#37 Posted : Tuesday, October 6, 2015 12:07:18 PM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: Knappekop Go to Quoted Post
I'm interested to see some flash tunes for AWD. I'd put mine here but not at home atm.


Please do... we dont have an AWD flash tunes in here yet. I would be interested in trying it!
Rank: Driver's Permit
#38 Posted : Wednesday, October 7, 2015 12:34:43 PM(UTC)
OK, so here it is: (in metric)

Tire pressure front/rear 1.9 bar/beginning 2.0 bar
Camber front -3.5° rear -3.0°
Toe out front/rear +0.3°
Caster default 5.0°
ARB's front 17.01 rear 10.91
Springs front 87.6 rear 90.0 (some cars I need to stiffen up to prevent serious oversteer)
Ride height mostly one-two clicks less
Rebound front 7.0 rear 5.5
Bump front 6.4 rear 5.8
Aero full front + rear (depends on what circuit I'm using the car for)
Braking power 50/50 on 100%
Differential
Front accel 20% decel 45%
Rear accel 25-30% decel 35-40%
Balance 65%

Please tell me what you're thoughts are, for me it works and comes closest to my driving style.
And my flash tune RWD is not so different from this.

Dennis
Nowadays known as SRT FancyFace
Rank: D-Class Racing License
#39 Posted : Thursday, October 8, 2015 8:41:28 AM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: Knappekop Go to Quoted Post
I'm interested to see some flash tunes for AWD. I'd put mine here but not at home atm.


everything for awd is the same except the diff. try

100
10

50
10

80

that should get you close for awd
Rank: Driver's Permit
#40 Posted : Thursday, October 8, 2015 12:14:47 PM(UTC)
Thanks, this helped. Shaved almost a second of my laptime.
Nowadays known as SRT FancyFace
Rank: Racing Permit
#41 Posted : Friday, October 9, 2015 3:59:50 PM(UTC)
Man this is a great idea to help people get their feet wet; here are my numbers and I'm now (thanks to this thread) concerned about my ARB's since almost everyone has the front stiffer....
Gonna have fun testing some of these base set-ups tonight.

None the less here are my base numbers, they seem to work just fine on most vehicles.

Tires: 29.0/28.5

Camber: -2.5/-2.1

Toe: Default

Caster: 5.3

ARB: 12/19

Springs: A little under half the bar (towards the soft side) with the rear a bit stiffer.

Ride height: This I always tune in track its not that hard to figure out. (as low as possible with-out bottoming out)

Aero: Full

Damping: Rebound is around 7.3/7.7 and Bump is 1.2/1.5

Brake: 47% balance and 115% force

Diff: RWD 70% Accel and 8% Decel

Thanks to all you guys that are real and honest with your tunes a lot of you guys have amazing vehicles/skills and aren't bothered one bit by sharing them. (Not the case with many)
Straights are for fast cars, corners are for fast drivers.
Rank: C-Class Racing License
#42 Posted : Friday, October 9, 2015 4:48:08 PM(UTC)
Never knew people went so low with the bump setting, I don't find hitting curbs etc a problem at about 7-8 but will have to give the low settings a try.

Tyres- 27F 28R
ARB- 30F 25R (often 30R too)
Camber- -2.0F -1.5R
Toe- 0.5F 0.0R (depends on the car if its okay default usually just 0.3F and -0.1R)
Brakes - 55% Front bias 120% Pressure. (I prefer to feather the brakes)
Diff - 70/80F 10/30R

Bump and rebound are usually around default unless I feel the car needs tweaks but this of course varies hugely car to car so cant really post a flash tune for that.

I'll be taking a few of the tips from this thread and trying them out although I'm pretty happy with my tunes so far but if I can improve even more then that can only be good.
Rank: Driver's Permit
#43 Posted : Saturday, October 10, 2015 11:27:05 AM(UTC)
@ ERS Johnson, Thanks for starting this post. I'm a casual old man gamer that enjoys racing games. I'm new to the Forza community and have really become interested in getting better and better times (Competition! Just can't get it out of me...LOL!). I used to do a little dabbling on another game system that we won't mention here. I usually don't mess with any tunes other than tire (Yes I'm American, don't hate me just yet...Hahaha!!) pressure and maybe down force but now I am even more interested in trying things out and getting the full experience of the game. It is nice to know that there are still people out there that just enjoy playing games, willing to share stuff, know that it is just a game, and enjoy the whole experience. Thanks Again! Oh and, GO U. S. A.!!!!!! Hahahaha!!! Damn Yanks!!!!!
Rank: S-Class Racing License
#44 Posted : Wednesday, October 21, 2015 11:01:41 AM(UTC)
This is also a good base setup.

Chef style

Edited by user Wednesday, October 21, 2015 11:02:44 AM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Rank: D-Class Racing License
#45 Posted : Saturday, October 24, 2015 7:47:34 AM(UTC)
Bump. Any chance of Flash' for AWD and FWD?
< Clicky
Rank: S-Class Racing License
#46 Posted : Saturday, October 24, 2015 8:14:01 AM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: LS FOGGY Go to Quoted Post
Bump. Any chance of Flash' for AWD and FWD?


Ofcourse... needs to wait until the 27th cuz my controller is busted. :(
Rank: Racing Permit
#47 Posted : Saturday, October 24, 2015 12:04:35 PM(UTC)
I'm no petrol head by any means, but this is my basic setup for all RWD cars:

Tyres: F28.5 R28.0
Camber: F2.5 R2.0
Toe; F0 R0 (unless it's a race car then -2 on the rear)
Caster: 6
ARB: F24 R18
Springs: X 120% then F&R ratios applied X 50%
Bump: F11 R10.8
Rebound: F2.0 R1.8
Diff: Acc 30 Dec 10

Am I doing anything wrong??
Rank: D-Class Racing License
#48 Posted : Sunday, October 25, 2015 5:22:47 PM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: ERS JOHNSON Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: LS FOGGY Go to Quoted Post
Bump. Any chance of Flash' for AWD and FWD?


Ofcourse... needs to wait until the 27th cuz my controller is busted. :(


Cheers bud!
< Clicky
Rank: C-Class Racing License
#49 Posted : Monday, October 26, 2015 9:17:18 AM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: LS FOGGY Go to Quoted Post
Bump. Any chance of Flash' for AWD and FWD?


the base tune I used for my Evo X. AWD B class
28/28
f.d. ratio depends on where you're going to tune it
-1.5/-1.0
0/0
5.0
22/18
490/430
5.5/5.5
9/10
2.5/2.5
75/150 aero
48%/190% I took your advice Johnson. took a minute to get used to but rear bias is the way to go
25% 0%
50%/25%
68%
It actually started off pretty good. None of my settings now, are far off from the base. I always save the base tune and keep it in case I ever want to do something differently. The finished tune is shared by the way. Name is grip league b

Edited by user Monday, October 26, 2015 9:29:45 AM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Rank: Driver's Permit
#50 Posted : Wednesday, October 28, 2015 6:06:58 AM(UTC)
I noticed that everyones basic tune setup has very high rebound settings generally greater than 9.0 and bump settings are low generally less than 3.0. Can someone explain why this is? My tunes I usually have them around Rebound 7.0 or 6.5 and bump is usually 5.0 in the front and 3 or 4 in the rear.
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