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#1 Posted : Saturday, October 25, 2014 11:10:28 AM(UTC)
I have a problem in Forza Motorsport 4, When I test Class R1 cars like the Bentley Speed 8, and Peugeot 908 (All types), I tend to spin out in them. Any tips that can reduce or eliminate these problems?
Rank: D-Class Racing License
#2 Posted : Saturday, October 25, 2014 5:09:13 PM(UTC)
I have the same problem running ovals with the R2 Pagani Zonda R. From the middle of the turn to the exit, my rear-end passes my front-end. I blame it on my controller, the "sloppy" left thumbstick to be exact. I don't have the problem with a brand new controller. It could also be your tunes.
Rank: C-Class Racing License
#3 Posted : Sunday, October 26, 2014 2:09:09 AM(UTC)
Lower your diff acceleration until the kick out goes away. I also had this issue until I found the aforementioned solution with R1 and some R2 cars. Hope this works for you.
Rank: R-Class Racing License
#4 Posted : Tuesday, October 28, 2014 7:48:24 AM(UTC)
Without seeing what you're doing regarding tuning and assists, the variables are endless. A few main ones:

-Traction Control, if you have this off, that's probably it.
-Downforce, if you have low rear, or high front compared to rear, that will cause a lot of issues, especially at higher speeds (normally 90/100mph and then exponentially more significant the faster you go).
-Differential: If you have the accel too high it may try to kick out.
-Too stiff rear springs/roll bars/damping to front, with that, the rear will be skittish and not settle down.
-Too high rear camber: The tyres won't have much contact area, especially at lower speed when less forces are on the car.
-Too high tyre pressures: If they're overheated or are too hard they'll skate and not stick as well.

Regarding the R2 on ovals from Bttlefed, that may be a bottoming out issue. Check the telemetry when driving to see if that's the case. If that isn't the case, then the above might apply :)

I'm always here to help though :)
Rank: D-Class Racing License
#5 Posted : Wednesday, October 29, 2014 7:45:52 AM(UTC)
Thanks for the tip HMR. I have a question for you that I will ask you via PM, because it involves a gamertag.

nevermind that PM, I found my answer shortly after writing that up there ^.

Edited by user Wednesday, October 29, 2014 9:25:28 AM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Rank: R-Class Racing License
#6 Posted : Wednesday, October 29, 2014 9:22:48 AM(UTC)
Okay no probs ^
Rank: Driver's Permit
#7 Posted : Sunday, November 9, 2014 5:16:39 PM(UTC)
well.. another thing u should probably try is raising your aero values a bit as well as tuning the gearbox with a long 1st gear.. the 1st gear on my racing cars goes to about 90mph to 120mph depending on the power of the vehicle.. for me personally it helps me stay on the power without skidding out or wheel spin coming out of a corner.. at least not as much as I'd get with a default setup with only tuning the final gear.. I think it also helps with the lag on turbo charged racers as well.. keeps the revs up so I dont have to worry about the sudden burst of power sending me into complete spin or drift..

I do have some questions of my own since I've come across a couple of wild card cars that dont seem to behave no matter how I set them up.. the Saleen S7R.. is there any hope for this car?.. no matter how I've set this car up it always gets crazy on the corners.. then there's the issue with braking on alot of cars.. I cant seem to find the right braking setup to which I can safely steer a car while braking softly without going into a drift of some sort.. any ideas?..

Oddly enough the only driver aid I use is ABS and nothing else..
Rank: R-Class Racing License
#8 Posted : Sunday, November 9, 2014 6:10:08 PM(UTC)
The Saleen S7R is hopeless, just focus on a nicer car like the Viper, which I made pretty competitive. Also regarding braking, you shouldn't be getting oversteer with ABS on unless some settings are out. With ABS on, you want quite a low pressure otherwise the brakes will lock momentatily, triggering the ABS so you get like 10 tiny little lock ups which impact efficiency and grip. Like all things in tuning, it's the whole package that counts so maybe try a reasonable neutral brake bias and see if it's the brakes that are causing the issue or if you're still having rear slip on entry, it could be a geometry issue in which case I'd look at some of the points I raised above.
Rank: C-Class Racing License
#9 Posted : Monday, November 10, 2014 11:55:05 AM(UTC)
It's possible to make a nice feeling S7R, but it's so difficult and the pace of the car is so disappointing that it's more worth it to open an ice cream stand on Christmas.
Rank: Driver's Permit
#10 Posted : Sunday, November 16, 2014 3:34:57 PM(UTC)
sooooooo the aim here would be to make it so the brakes only leave stripes on the road as oppose to multiple 5 foot long (guessing) skid marks.. hmm.. I just didnt wanna go overboard with lowering the pressure.. I usually lower it somewhere between 70% n 80% and even then I get the long skids with a soft but firm touch.. I feel as though if I lower it too much I'll have the stopping distance of a locomotive hauling 100 cars.. as for the S7R.. I did some tweaking but ended up with extremes.. I maxxed it's aero values and only then would it behave... slightly.. but like The Bullin Wall5 mentioned.. the pace of the car.. ugh.. might as well use it in R3 class.. but that was before I took a hard look at my usual settings after reading the points u brought up above..

I've started with the camber n toe.. all this time I've been using a setup in which the rear tire's inner walls have close to no contact with the ground n so they pretty much stayed cold.. it was so bad on some cars that I would put myself in a drift with the tire telemetry on the screen and the rear tires would look like a rastafarian flag.. so I've been tweaking it so that the rears heat up evenly for the most part.. the end result has been better grip..

I also have an R3/800 Mclaren F1 that goes 260+mph but has zero contact with the road above 180mph.. my question is.. is there anyway to counteract this without sticking a spoiler on there.. I'm guessing stiffing up the suspension so that the air doesnt lift the car up as much but I'm thinking I might have a hard time finding the right balance between the spring rates and the ride height.. as well as sacrificing stability over bumps n things.. at speeds below 180mph it handles fine but once it goes faster than that its as though the road surface turned into a ice skating rink without telling me.
Rank: A-Class Racing License
#11 Posted : Monday, November 17, 2014 7:11:10 AM(UTC)
Try adjusting the ride height , Alias . I always have the rear end a few clicks higher than the front . Start off with both ride height settings at minimum then goto the Bencmark tab and take a note of the braking distances . Once you have noted them down go back to the tuning tab and increase the rear by 0.1 inches , then check the braking distances again . After about 3 or 4 raises of the rear the braking distances will start to increase again , when it does , reduce it to where you got the lowest reading . This ( i assume ) is the airflow over the car producing drag and pushing the car onto the track , and if i am right , it should increase the faster you go .
Rank: Driver's Permit
#12 Posted : Monday, November 17, 2014 7:25:37 PM(UTC)
well as I understand aerodynamics in this game the faster a car goes.. the more the air pushes down in the car giving more traction and better handling.. thats IF the car has a spoiler.. if it doesn't.. like the mclaren F1.. the faster a car goes the more the air gets under the car lifting it up off the ground causing less traction and no handling at high speeds as well as tires locking up under braking dued to the lack of contact with the road.. of course if u raise the ride height it gets easier for the air to get under the car and up u go..

now at high speeds I'm guessing that with a stiff suspension the car wont float up off the ground as much as well as a rather low ride height it'll float even less.. but I guess its how much I'm willing to sacrifice stability over bumps to be able to steer the car slightly at high speeds.. well.. experimentation is in order.. its funny too cuz I started to use those settings with a higher rear height n I've met with some mixed results.. on some cars it worked well on others they got worse.. but I never thought about using the benchmark as suggested.. now I gotta try it.. I've been relying on the in game telemetry more honestly..

Also.. about the benchmark.. there have been times where I would use it on some cars and it would read 0 - 60 and 0 - 100 times but then say "FAILED" on the rest of the stats.. what causes this?
Rank: A-Class Racing License
#13 Posted : Tuesday, November 18, 2014 3:06:29 PM(UTC)
The only thing i can think of for a Benchmark " fail " is a glitch in the software ( dirty disc perhaps ???? ) . Regards increased rear ride height . I remember watching a show on telly about the production of the Gumpert Apollo . I remember them mentioning that the car has a raised rear end . Apparently the raised rear end lets the air escape at the back of the car faster than it enters at the front end , creating a vacuum , which sucks the car onto the track basically . I think if the ride height is too high , the effect is lost . I know also that the F1 are slightly higher at the back too ( 50 mm if i rem rightly ) . Obviously the F1 car has a shed load of other aerodynamic effects happening but i cant see them raising the rear end for fun . It may or may not be effective in the game , i dunno , but i use it anyways . Let me know if it helps at all anyways mate .
Rank: R-Class Racing License
#14 Posted : Tuesday, November 18, 2014 3:58:59 PM(UTC)
A Benchmark fail may be caused by doing an extreme setting where a car won't reach 100mph, etc. Same can be done with the brakes where you don't give them pressure, etc.

If you're going to do missile runs on Le Mans remember that straight is bumpy. It's not flat by any means. That's why some missile cars are uncontrollable and some higher class ones are more stable.

Edited by user Tuesday, November 18, 2014 3:59:35 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Rank: Driver's Permit
#15 Posted : Wednesday, November 19, 2014 12:07:34 PM(UTC)
I'm not so sure that the aerodynamics of this game are as precise.. but no harm in trying.. as for the Le mans straight.. its pretty bumpy this I know.. its just that little bend at the end where its like rolling the dice.. some cars handle that little bend just before the tight turn with zero to little issues..

The F1 on the other hand goes so sideways it makes the speed 12 or ultimate aero seem like indy cars on that bend by comparison.. if I'm gentle on that small bend with those cars they manage it with some issue on the count of their tires still being somewhat cold by the time they reach the bend.. the next lap or lap after that they hold the road like pros.. the F1 is ALWAYS out of shape at that bend no matter what and I have to brake otherwise I'm tagging the walls.. oddly enough the F1GT handles everything alot better than the F1..

Benchmark fails.. I'm inclined to believe the glitch software theory only because the cars this sort of thing happens to are cars that are A class n above on my game.. I certainly didnt set my XJ220 to not go over 100mph or have 3 football fields for a stopping distance and every car produces Gs yes?.. but all these stats turn up fail lol.. this even happens on 1 of my R1 prototypes so.. *shrug*
Rank: R-Class Racing License
#16 Posted : Wednesday, November 19, 2014 2:36:57 PM(UTC)
Cold tyres on Le Mans? What do you set your tyre pressures at? At those crazy speeds, unless you're sat on the entry to the Mulsanne Straight dawdling, your tyres should be furnaces.

The McLaren F1 is inherently skittish, same goes with the race versions. McLarens in real life are set up stiffer, probably to keep the aero guys happy, whether that translated into the game...dunno :)

As for the errors, who knows!
Rank: C-Class Racing License
#17 Posted : Thursday, November 20, 2014 12:56:27 PM(UTC)
The McLaren F1 hasn't caused me any trouble. I used it in S class for Le Mans with nothing but power upgrades and it did a top 50 pretty easily.
Rank: A-Class Racing License
#18 Posted : Thursday, November 20, 2014 1:17:54 PM(UTC)
I had a quick go with the F1 GT ( couldn't rem which version of the F1 you used ) , whilst the lack of aero made it a bit of a rocket , it was stable in the corners and under braking . It took that corner you were talkng about with no problems @260 MPH . I uploaded a replay of the run to my SF btw . At those speeds stability is King , perhaps you could try fine tuning your spring and ARB'S too .

The build i used for the GT was everything upgraded to race spec except for the oil cooling - it was stock . It ended up with a PI rating of 864 ( R2 Class ) Here is the tune if you wanna try it out for yourself

Tyres

28.0 28.5

Gears

4.32 1.95 1.21 0.95 0.75 0.62 0.55

Alignment

-1.1 -0.9

Toe

0.1 0.0

Caster

5.8

Anti Roll Bars

14.6 12.00

Springs

270.5 317.5

Ride height

3.9 4.2

Bump

6.0 6.8

Rebound

1.5 1.7

Brakes

47 % 160 BP

Diff

30% Acc 12% Dec

I dare say the tune could be refined as it was just a quick job to see how the car handled that specific corner at very high speeds .




Rank: Driver's Permit
#19 Posted : Thursday, November 20, 2014 2:41:25 PM(UTC)
yea my F1 GT handles really well.. its the F1 I've been worried about.. and yea I highly doubt the aerodynamics as well as certain features of certain cars are true to form in this game.. like the ferrari FF for example.. but then.. its a game so.. yea.. I mean the F1 as well as the 458 among others were designed in such a way to ride the air like trains to rails so its my opinion that those cars wouldnt need things like spoilers to handle high speeds.. but then the F1 wasnt designed to do 260+mph either so.. I dunno what the air pressure would be like at those speeds on a car that was designed to ride the air the way it does at 240 something..

also sidenote.. I've managed to successfully tame the S7R.. hey I paid good credits for it I wasnt gonna just let it sit in my garage lookin pretty.. all it took was an adjustment in tire pressures to 27.0 and toe angled to 1.5 front n -1.5 rear.. seems a bit extreme I know but after that it calmed way down.. all thats left is to adjust the aero in such a way that the car has good speed with handling.. as it is now in my garage its still frustratingly slow compared to say the AI version of the same car but its viable now lol..

Honestly I've always been afraid to mess with the tire pressure settings until the S7R out of desperation.. it turned out good.. as for my other cars.. my tire pressures are always 30 out of fear of wearing out the tires too fast.. also..

My F1GT handles just fine but it can do with a tweak as it is still using my old settings in which the rear tire's inner walls stay cold for the most part and even then I'm getting good results.. so imagine if I fix it up right.. also its not just for missile runs on lemans.. I'm also looking for good all rounders with high top speed.. I like having that power in my back pocket should I come across a track like road america, nordschliefe, catalunya, sebring or even twin ring.. but if I cant control it.. whats the point?.. but I think braking will be my biggest challenge with these cars..
Rank: R-Class Racing License
#20 Posted : Saturday, November 22, 2014 6:21:23 AM(UTC)
I've never seen 1.5/-1.5 ever! I gulp thinking about it, because you're canceling yourself out there. 1.5 makes the front more responsive, but -1.5 rear makes that end really inert. Tyre wear doesn't come into play unless you do a massive endurance race, so feel free to play with tyres. Heat and setup of them is very important though. The only tyre wear you'll ever have to manage is if you do a racing league that uses drag tyres w/ damage on so the tyres are worse than what's seen on F1.

My last piece of advice is rather than have one 'all rounder,' have a car for a certain few tracks, so keep that top speed car on Road America and a few select places. Catalunya I'd say isn't about speed, it has a straight, yeah, but lots of sweeping corners. Only when you get up to higher classes with all the downforce can you really utilise the straight whilst keeping it together on the back half. Proof? R2 Mazda Furai, the most grippy thing EVER, dominates that track. So for Catalunya or Silverstone I'd take something grippier.

If you need help tuning I can find my old open source thread with lots of higher class tunes on it.
Rank: Driver's Permit
#21 Posted : Friday, November 28, 2014 8:02:59 PM(UTC)
I just like to go 200+mph as much as possible.. yea.. speed freak here.. lol..

well I used to use 1.5/-1.5 all the time for toe.. now that I'm actually keeping an eye on things I'm seeing how much of a no no that really is.. but in the case of the S7R it really settled that bucking bronco down alot from what it used to be.. a bucking bronco.. -.-.. I also keep a look out for handling stats.. like the lancia 037.. S class grip on a B class car.. lol crazy.. I love that thing..

I'm a little annoyed with the furai as well as the F50GT and zonda R.. great cars yes.. but no upgrade options.. this isnt a bad thing its just that I'd like to improve the look of those cars with different wheels n rims but they increase the or decrease the P.I and since I'm a bit of a stickler for details that really bugs the hell out of me.. I mean really can anyone really tell me if there's a noticeable difference when all u do is shave 11lbs which causes the PI to go up 1 or 2 points?..
Rank: R-Class Racing License
#22 Posted : Saturday, November 29, 2014 12:03:29 PM(UTC)
Yes the difference is noticeable. Shaving a few lbs off the rims does affect handling as it's unsprung weight. You can get some nice rims on the Furai. If you look for a tune by Redux/TPR, it's one of the best in the game, and has nice rims ;) It was open sourced on the old forums however I don't think it's on here. The F50 is no slouch either, with those cars you make the most out of what you have and those two cars especially are very good. You'll find with higher class cars that there are limited options for upgrading, as most parts on them would already be 'race' spec, or to that extent.

Two of the more customisable for R3/R2 are the Mosler and Joss. Both quite brutal things, the Joss having more speed but the Mosler with more downforce. If you like customising cars, you can't go too wrong with either of those and they're leaderboard quality too so you can definitely set some hot laps.

But as I say with many of these higher class cars, more focus is set to tuning. I'd really encourage you to stay out of the Saleen, you may have 'tamed' it but at what expense to outright performance? It's one of those cars. I have many other R2 cars that will annihilate that Saleen! I'll dig up my open source thread if you're interested at my many projects.
Rank: Driver's Permit
#23 Posted : Saturday, November 29, 2014 6:41:56 PM(UTC)
oh i dont doubt that there are much better options than the saleen.. I know this.. like EVERYTHING ELSE but like I mentioned I'm a stickler for details so I dont like racing production or pre tuners with full blown racers.. I cant explain it but it just really bugs me to see something like the #4 C-class in the same grid as a jacked up R34 GTR or the ford fusion stock car in the same grid as a veyron..

I also dont like having 2 of the same cars in the same grid as well unless its 1 of those special events where the options are insanely limited.. yea I know.. doesnt leave me much of a list to play with since I'm still going for bucket list.. almost there though.. I'll pick a double if I found a nice custom racing livery for the car to give myself the illusion of having something different lol.. I feel like a bit of a headcase as I type this out lol..

I have a mosler n a joss.. my JT1 needs work as it seems a bit skiddish at 1st but once the tires warm up it may or may not understeer into a wall.. I havent checked it out in awhile so I cant remember it's settings off hand.. I'll give it a look when I can.. I do know I wanna keep it in R3 at the very least.. the MT500 is an amazing car although I think I screwed it up when I setup the gearbox.. theres 0 wheel spin off the line but that was when it was R3.. I brought it up to R2 but I dunno if I wanna keep it there honestly.. I might roll it back n tweak it a bit..
Rank: C-Class Racing License
#24 Posted : Sunday, November 30, 2014 10:15:04 AM(UTC)
Well, there are very few cases where those high power cars will beat the race cars you mentioned in the same grid, so that's akways good. Show those people who think their GT-R '10 will win an R1 race what's up.
Anyway, most cars, when built to their potential, have enough PI room only to fit lighter rims. For example, the Furai gets max rear tire widths, but if you put on the most front tire widths you can, you'll either be below or above 875. You obviously can't go above, so going below and adding nice, light rims is the best option. I think I use the lightest Advans on my Furai.
As for the Mosler, it's superb in both R3 and R2, but the latter class is a bit more difficult to drive because of all the extra power with the same handling as R3.
Rank: Driver's Permit
#25 Posted : Tuesday, June 12, 2018 6:16:46 AM(UTC)
Probably the most stable R1 car you can get would be a fully upgraded Mazda Furai. It will only go up to 943, as the low rpm power with a turbocharger is not great. You are going to want to shorten up the first few gears and lengthen the gear ratio so that it accererates better. Might want to tune some other stuff as well.

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