Rank: Racing Permit
#1 Posted : Wednesday, November 18, 2020 9:24:02 PM(UTC)
I'm not used to track games. While playing fm7 I don't know why I'm losing races against average difficulty bots. It's quite confusing about how to turn properly and all that.

1] For starters, how do I control the throttle input? I have a 3rd party 360 controller. I can barely manage to adjust brake input by slowly pushing the trigger while looking at the gauge on the screen, but for some reason this doesn't work with the accelerator. When I try to do the same thing on the right trigger, it's like that button doesn't even have more than 3 levels of sensitivity. I mean, I push it a little but there's not response. I push it a little more and the throttle gauge goes up to some 20%. Then I push it just a teeny tiny bit and it goes all the way to 100% throttle input. I can't tell if this is the game's problem or my controller's. I never had any issues with my controller when I test it with a tool. Because of this it's impossible for me to ease it in while turning because it ends up the same as a floored pedal.

2] Also, even though I said I can do it with the brakes, it's still unreasonably difficult. I can't do it unless I am looking at the gauge on the screen and even then I need 2 seconds of staring to adjust it to approx. 50% input........2 seconds during which I am not seeing where I'm going. Again, it this my controller or is there a game setting to adjust this? How do you people do it?

3] Then there's a similar problem with steering. I always wiggle the stick. Result is that the turn doesn't go so smoothly and sometimes I turn too hard. From watching videos, it looked to me like everybody is able to keep the stick steady at the same angle throughout the turn(mostly, with gradual bending). How do you know how much to bend it to be able to maintain that and where to start doing it?

4] Why does the steering wheel snap back to 0 degrees as soon as I let go of the stick? It's so unnatural. Is there a way to change that? It's making the car feel sluggish.

5] An odd thing is the way the bots(even high diff. ones) let you pass them so easily at the start of the race. They don't pick up speed until after the first turn. Any reason?

6] Why does the car oversteer when I shift down(manual with clutch) in the middle of a turn? I'm not even pressing the gas. Specifically speaking, this happens at the moment I release clutch.


Another thing that's bugging me is how I have much better control over the car when playing ACC compared to fm7, on the same controller, same track, same car even(I still lost but at least I could keep all wheels on the road and go fast). You can't say gt3 cars in ACC have assists to make them easier since the same cars exist in fm7 as well. I have noticed that when I once complained about the handling in fm6 and compared it to ACC, people felt hurt or something and ignored my thread. I am not making some rant in here. I am not saying fm7 is awful either. Just making it clear.

Edited by user Wednesday, November 18, 2020 10:56:10 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Rank: Racing Permit
#2 Posted : Wednesday, November 18, 2020 10:29:05 PM(UTC)
I'm using a redgear controller. If that is the issue, do you think it's worthwhile buying a new controller? I'd rather not spend more than 20$
Rank: A-Class Racing License
#3 Posted : Thursday, November 19, 2020 2:21:19 AM(UTC)
Motorsport is very hard to control. It's not about physics but handling there is very hard. For instance, Gran Turismo has similar physics but you would love the controls. Motorsport is about training. Many my friends don't like Motorsport controls and I get why.
Rank: A-Class Racing License
#4 Posted : Thursday, November 19, 2020 2:46:54 AM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: Emperor7444 Go to Quoted Post

6] Why does the car oversteer when I shift down(manual with clutch) in the middle of a turn? I'm not even pressing the gas. Specifically speaking, this happens at the moment I release clutch.

It's like real car you need to match the speeds. If you not use the gas, that's the problem.
Rank: Racing Permit
#5 Posted : Thursday, November 19, 2020 3:14:31 AM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: turtleCZ Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: Emperor7444 Go to Quoted Post

6] Why does the car oversteer when I shift down(manual with clutch) in the middle of a turn? I'm not even pressing the gas. Specifically speaking, this happens at the moment I release clutch.

It's like real car you need to match the speeds. If you not use the gas, that's the problem.


Can you explain how that works? Are you saying I should slowly press the accelerator while releasing clutch? Even in middle of turning?
Rank: A-Class Racing License
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#6 Posted : Thursday, November 19, 2020 3:34:22 AM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: Emperor7444 Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: turtleCZ Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: Emperor7444 Go to Quoted Post

6] Why does the car oversteer when I shift down(manual with clutch) in the middle of a turn? I'm not even pressing the gas. Specifically speaking, this happens at the moment I release clutch.

It's like real car you need to match the speeds. If you not use the gas, that's the problem.


Can you explain how that works? Are you saying I should slowly press the accelerator while releasing clutch? Even in middle of turning?

You can't downshift without gas in real car too. It depends on your exact downshifting but if you downshift you need high RPM and you are putting neutral and clutch - can't work. It's like you use handbrake during cornering - not good :D That's one thing in Motorsport which is hard to control but it's real. I don't know any other similar game.
Rank: Racing Permit
#7 Posted : Thursday, November 19, 2020 3:45:50 AM(UTC)
I see. I remember seeing something similar in project cars 2. So that's why
Rank: Racing Permit
#8 Posted : Thursday, November 19, 2020 3:47:46 AM(UTC)
About my other questions, can someone tell me how to properly control throttle input on a controller? I always press to much or too little.
Rank: A-Class Racing License
#9 Posted : Thursday, November 19, 2020 4:18:08 AM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: Emperor7444 Go to Quoted Post
I see. I remember seeing something similar in project cars 2. So that's why

Without auto clutch that's how it should work.
Rank: A-Class Racing License
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#10 Posted : Thursday, November 19, 2020 4:20:45 AM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: Emperor7444 Go to Quoted Post
About my other questions, can someone tell me how to properly control throttle input on a controller? I always press to much or too little.

It's about training because Motorsport doesn't give much clues. I can easily use throttle anywhere but it's very hard on Motorsport because of lack of info. Usually if you know are going too fast it's too late :D Motorsport is very sensitive to gas/brake which is fine but it's harder.
Rank: A-Class Racing License
#11 Posted : Thursday, November 19, 2020 4:22:18 AM(UTC)
But I had some feeling there is a small lag for gas/brake, I am still not sure. Do you have impulse triggers?
Rank: Racing Permit
#12 Posted : Thursday, November 19, 2020 4:55:59 AM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: turtleCZ Go to Quoted Post
But I had some feeling there is a small lag for gas/brake, I am still not sure. Do you have impulse triggers?


If impulse triggers mean individually vibrating ones, then no, I don't. My controller just vibrates as a whole. I think the motors are in the grips, at the base.
This is the one:-
https://www.amazon.in/Re...+%2Caps%2C312&sr=8-1

Edited by user Thursday, November 19, 2020 4:58:52 AM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Rank: A-Class Racing License
 1 user liked this post.
#13 Posted : Thursday, November 19, 2020 5:10:37 AM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: Emperor7444 Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: turtleCZ Go to Quoted Post
But I had some feeling there is a small lag for gas/brake, I am still not sure. Do you have impulse triggers?


If impulse triggers mean individually vibrating ones, then no, I don't. My controller just vibrates as a whole. I think the motors are in the grips, at the base.
This is the one:-
https://www.amazon.in/Re...+%2Caps%2C312&sr=8-1

Oh, don't try Motorsport then :D Gran Turismo is great without it but Motorsport is hard even with it. It gives you good feedback what is going on. Not great, but not bad either.
Rank: Racing Permit
#14 Posted : Thursday, November 19, 2020 5:26:18 AM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: turtleCZ Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: Emperor7444 Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: turtleCZ Go to Quoted Post
But I had some feeling there is a small lag for gas/brake, I am still not sure. Do you have impulse triggers?


If impulse triggers mean individually vibrating ones, then no, I don't. My controller just vibrates as a whole. I think the motors are in the grips, at the base.
This is the one:-
https://www.amazon.in/Re...+%2Caps%2C312&sr=8-1

Oh, don't try Motorsport then :D Gran Turismo is great without it but Motorsport is hard even with it. It gives you good feedback what is going on. Not great, but not bad either.


Well I already bought it....guess it's too late. I'll see if I can get an original controller somewhere down the line.
Rank: A-Class Racing License
#15 Posted : Thursday, November 19, 2020 5:29:38 AM(UTC)
Sure, it's not a problem, just buy good controller. New Series controller is a bit different, so you can choose what is better for you.

Motorsport 7 is still great game without any competition.
Rank: Racing Permit
#16 Posted : Thursday, November 19, 2020 5:49:48 AM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: turtleCZ Go to Quoted Post
Sure, it's not a problem, just buy good controller. New Series controller is a bit different, so you can choose what is better for you.

Motorsport 7 is still great game without any competition.


:D
Rank: A-Class Racing License
#17 Posted : Friday, November 20, 2020 2:35:05 AM(UTC)
I have a one question too. Can somebody tell me why Forza steering on a controller is not much friendly? When I use stock car the steering can easily overload rear and it starts slide. Why is it? It looks like a wheel is main controller for the Forza. I like all helpers for controller but this is about steering settings. Like I wrote before, it's not in Gran Turismo so it's not necessary. I don't see any advantage in it because it's pretty hard to go on the edge if you can't use maximum safe steering angle.
Rank: C-Class Racing License
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#18 Posted : Friday, November 20, 2020 4:50:57 PM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: Emperor7444 Go to Quoted Post
1] For starters, how do I control the throttle input? I have a 3rd party 360 controller. I can barely manage to adjust brake input by slowly pushing the trigger while looking at the gauge on the screen, but for some reason this doesn't work with the accelerator. When I try to do the same thing on the right trigger, it's like that button doesn't even have more than 3 levels of sensitivity...

Sounds like you're on PC. Not sure if this will help or not, but:

Under Options > Controller, there's an option called Advanced (X button on Xbox One). In that menu you can adjust the deadzones for each input axis. You might be able to smooth out your brake and throttle sensitivity by adjusting those.

Originally Posted by: Emperor7444 Go to Quoted Post
3] Then there's a similar problem with steering. I always wiggle the stick. Result is that the turn doesn't go so smoothly and sometimes I turn too hard. From watching videos, it looked to me like everybody is able to keep the stick steady at the same angle throughout the turn(mostly, with gradual bending). How do you know how much to bend it to be able to maintain that and where to start doing it?

A lot of that is practice. What I did when I used a controller was to hold the left stick all the way up/forward when going straight and roll it around the outside edge to steer. Really helps get smoother steering inputs.

There's also a setting for steering in the Assists menu (have to be in the pre-race or pause menu to access it). Two of the options are Simulation and Normal. Normal is intended for use with controllers, and helps smooth out some of the twitchiness from using a controller. Simulation is intended for use with wheels, and is a more "direct" input. I personally preferred Simulation steering even when using a controller, but a lot of people prefer Normal. It's worth trying both of them out and seeing which works best for you.

Originally Posted by: Emperor7444 Go to Quoted Post
5] An odd thing is the way the bots(even high diff. ones) let you pass them so easily at the start of the race. They don't pick up speed until after the first turn. Any reason?

Forza AI is terrible. They brake wrong, corner wrong, launch wrong... They don't drive better as you increase the difficulty, either; the game just increases their grip and power so they drive like faster idiots.

Originally Posted by: Emperor7444 Go to Quoted Post
6] Why does the car oversteer when I shift down(manual with clutch) in the middle of a turn? I'm not even pressing the gas. Specifically speaking, this happens at the moment I release clutch.

This happens because of an effect called engine braking. Look at it this way: If you're holding a steady speed, the engine, transmission, and wheels are all rotating as one unit. When you downshift, the engine has to spin up to a higher RPM to match the speed of the wheels and lower gear, and "forcing" the engine to spin faster creates a braking effect. If you're driving a rear wheel drive car, that braking effect can lock up the rear wheels and cause you to lose traction (exactly like if you yanked on the emergency brake).

If you Google "engine braking", you can probably find someone who can explain it much better than I can.

Keeping the car steady under braking is another thing that you'll get better at with practice. The way Forza handles braking physics is not very good, so it can take a bit to get used to if you're used to other games.

Rank: Racing Permit
#19 Posted : Saturday, November 21, 2020 2:29:58 AM(UTC)
@Mr Pinstripes

Thanks a lot for the detailed reply.
Yes I'm on PC and I made sure the dead zones are disabled everywhere I saw them.

Your method of steering sounds good. I never thought of doing that. It should feel better now.

Edit:- I missed a setting about "deadzone outside". I looked it up but it's totally confusing. It's set to 90(both acc. and brake) in my case. Can someone explain what this one does? I already know what "deadzone inside" is.

Edited by user Saturday, November 21, 2020 2:36:31 AM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Rank: A-Class Racing License
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#20 Posted : Saturday, November 21, 2020 3:12:22 AM(UTC)
To my knowledge inside determines how much pressure you have to apply for the controller to register it and outside determines how much pressure is needed to apply 100%.

So if you set inside to 20 % for example, the controller won't respond to an input below 20% of pressure. If you put outside to 50%, the controller will apply 100% braking or acceleration even if you only push the trigger in half of the way.

You should always have inside and outside as far apart from each other as possible to give you more control.

Edit: Here is a video explaining all the settings https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EiaTbOi4jz4

Edited by user Saturday, November 21, 2020 3:15:51 AM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Rank: Racing Permit
#21 Posted : Saturday, November 21, 2020 3:34:03 AM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: BaBaKeIsaiah Go to Quoted Post
To my knowledge inside determines how much pressure you have to apply for the controller to register it and outside determines how much pressure is needed to apply 100%.

So if you set inside to 20 % for example, the controller won't respond to an input below 20% of pressure. If you put outside to 50%, the controller will apply 100% braking or acceleration even if you only push the trigger in half of the way.

You should always have inside and outside as far apart from each other as possible to give you more control.

Edit: Here is a video explaining all the settings https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EiaTbOi4jz4


got it, thanks
Rank: Driver's Permit
#22 Posted : Tuesday, November 24, 2020 8:58:14 PM(UTC)
okay if you fot sim steering on you need to turn that off. and go to your controller settings and go to advance and turn the inside sensitivitys all the way down to zero and turn the outside all the way up to a 100. that will make it to where you have full control over your throttle and breaking. and from there just do rivals and learn how to drive and tune your car to your style of driving.


so I'm gonna explain to you tuning as simplistic as I can.

your tire pressure is obviously air inside your tire. but when you drive fast
your wheels get hot so when that happens the air expands in the tire wich
in some cases can make the wheel unlevel with the road the inside of the
tire can bulge outwards if you have top much psi and it sinks im if you got too little
and you used to be able to change your system from imperial to metric to get more minute changes
and then change back but they fixed that. anyway.


gear ratios. you just change the final drive really. I mean you can spend time on your ratios. but sometimes they're a pain in the ***. cause you can rev match for one track but it'll be different for another track thats why its better to just leave it alone. if you need more speed move it towards speed and vice versa if you need more accelle.


alignment belive it or not this is the one of the places thats gonna give you the most grip.
some ppl think there is one or few camber settings but thats not true. cause camber is a very dynamic thing. and can affect your car in every way you'd think possible handling acceleration and breaking weight transference because its all about how much of the tire you've got in contact with the road in specific moments. so if you bring up a thing called the telemetry you can see exactly how a cars parts are working. camber suspension how hot your tires are. and if you look at camber you can see how it moves and fluctuates. now... there is two was you can tune our camber. but first let me explain how camber works. so if you already know you know its the top to down angle of the tire. when the top of the tire is tilted outwards thats positive If it tilts inward its negative. and when you drive in a straight line you get more negative camber in straights cause of the rear wheels. cause under acceleration when the weight transfers to the rear. it slightly compresses the suspension same goes for when you break. now when you take a corner your outside wheels experience most of the load your car has and more on your front or your rear depending how your weight distribution is on your car. okay so when your cars suspension is experiencing load in a corner. it compresses the suspension and there is only so much length before your cars wheels try to straighten back up. so in the middle of your cars compression you have a lot of camber but once it compresses all the way your wheel moves more towards positive and sometimes it can go over into positive specially in your base tune setup. you want to find the sweets spot in negative camber so it will be at zero when your mid flight in a corner. and thats what I call zero contact patching. which I categorize as a camber tuning method. the second method is tuning for the inside camber which will be your inside wheels camber. and why I do this is because being that your car experiences less load on the inside. it also experiences less stabilization. cause you are gonna have more camber than the outside on the inside. cause its a way lighter load. now normally I set the outside to where it compresses to zero then I work from there. now with this method sometimes you cant see what jts doing in telemetry cause its affects is a lot more minute than working with the outside wheels. so I do a small 2 lap race. always do two laps cause the first half of the lap your camber us completely unstable. and you wanna do that second lap to be able to see exactly how your camber is reacting to the road. but you do a small 2 lap race then go back and watch the replay with your telemetry up. and you can slow it down and rewind if you need to. to see exactly how your inside wheels camber is going through a corner and however your car handles there is a specific point in the corner where your inside wheel tries to straighten up and evening this out as close to zero as you can. can make your car handle a lot better cause. in that point in a turn you most of the time experienc us lot of understeer. and that can be fixed. and it gives you nice amount of handling in turns..



now your anti roll bars. can be kinda annoying to fool with. ive never liked messing with em. normally I set the front side to 14 and the rear to 12 or 11. and if I have handling problems. if you have understeer problems lower the front or stiffen the rear. vice versa if you have oversteer problems..


springs and ride hight is essentially linked to your camber as well as your oversteer or understeer. but also affects your weight transference and how much your cars suspension compresses. okay so weight transference is technically how your cars body roll is. or chassis movement. like if your in a car for real. you know how when you press on the breaks in real life or someone driving and annoyingly everything thats in a seat or in your hand wants to move towards the windshield 🤣🤣. yeah thats weight transference. along with something called lateral g's or g force. when you step on the gas weight shifts backwards. now for breaking suspension compression. that's called diving. acceleration compression thats called squatting. those terms will be a lil helpful later for when I talk about dampening. but springs is just raw weight transference and how much it compresses. now back to how I was talking about how camber is dynamic. compression in springs is directly linked to why the camber is dynamic. and if you've ever heard anyone tell you to lower your suspension all the way is because you don't want unconsistancies in your handling. cause if you lower your ride hight all the way. it reaches your max load faster. thus meaning your camber tries to straighten back up faster. the reason your camber and handling would be inconsistent with a higher ride hight is because in between your compression your handling fluctuates. and the higher your height the more unpredictable your cars camber will be now. it isn't really extreme unless you lowered all of your dampening your car turns into an untamed horse 🤣🤣. but yeah your handling is a lil more inconsistent if you have a higher ride height. now lowering your car all the way isnt good all the time. its really meant for tracks like Silverstone seibring catylunia circuit. you know flat tracks like that. stuff like Rio and nurburg you don't want a fully lowered car. as you'll bottom out. now granet if your car is lowered all the way it doesnt matter if the track is flat or not. you still experience bottoming out cause of compression but flat tracks is a lot less sever than uneven tracks. but how you slightly fix bottoming out is by stiffening your springs. but now Remember too stiff can also make your car skiddish.


alright dampening probably one of the most confusing and advance topics of it all.. what is dampening?.. well dampening is the speed of what a suspension compresses and uncompresses. therefore bump is compression and rebound is uncompression. so its basically the oils in the shock that flow through however many holes you allow the oils to flow through.. and the stiffer it is the less holes its able to flow through and the softer it is the more holes it flows through. now tuning the setting can be rather complicated. cause the thing is. how it works on the stiffer or softer can go either way. stiffening the front rebound can cause understeer or sometimes it can cause over steer and same goes for bump. now restricting the oils flow or not.has an affect on how the car handles massively. and you can make it to where your compression is like butter. or you can make it restricting. but this is what I've gathered over large amounts of time and practice involved. but from what I've heard but doesn't really help me that much is. a really stiff rebound and a really soft bump makes it to were that side compresses fast and tries to raise back up slow. but I've never really felt it like that. when I drive I personally feel like softening that side of the car both rebound and bump creates better compression and I think stiffening the bump increases compression and stiffening the rebound increases rebound speed. and softening does the opposite. thats what I feel anyway when I drive. plus it would make sense considering when you look up how dampening works thats exactly how it explains it.. but dampening to get it right. really matters on your feel. how you pick your lines your specific style of driving. how you engage in a turn. all plays a role. now breaking is simplistic ill let you do that.


the differential im just gonna say now it has an affect but not now a differential should okay so I forgot exactly how these things work exactly but. if you have oversteer on throttle you have too much oversteer and if you have understeer you have too little. and off throttle if you have oversteer you have top little deceleration and if you have lift off oversteer you have too much deceleration. if you have lift off understeer you have too little deceleration.. now differentials in forza 7 is kinda diffective. cause on acceleration in corners the power always goes to the wheel with the less resistance wich is the inside wheel. but no matter how high you put the acceleration. even all the way to 100 it still doesn't eradicate that on throttle understeer. and can be pretty annoying specially in sweeping turns. which is long turns. cause when your in online races cars with naturally better handling can out turn you in those turns because of this. and especially in online s class racing. but anyway. the only other thing I can tell you man. is just do rivals. to also just get overall better at driving. takes a lot of practice and as good as I was. and yes. quote "was" cause I havnt been able to play in almost a year cause my console broke. I still wasn't perfect at the game. I was in top 100 in the world. in r class id be in top 50 or so in the world but still that wasn't the best. id normally beat ppl online. cause scrubs are normally in online races 🤣. but I always try to get better... anyway I hope this helps you and anyone who reads this. hopefully I meet yall on forza 7 or potentially forza 8 someday. l8R ✌
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#23 Posted : Tuesday, November 24, 2020 8:59:19 PM(UTC)
okay if you fot sim steering on you need to turn that off. and go to your controller settings and go to advance and turn the inside sensitivitys all the way down to zero and turn the outside all the way up to a 100. that will make it to where you have full control over your throttle and breaking. and from there just do rivals and learn how to drive and tune your car to your style of driving.


so I'm gonna explain to you tuning as simplistic as I can.

your tire pressure is obviously air inside your tire. but when you drive fast
your wheels get hot so when that happens the air expands in the tire wich
in some cases can make the wheel unlevel with the road the inside of the
tire can bulge outwards if you have top much psi and it sinks im if you got too little
and you used to be able to change your system from imperial to metric to get more minute changes
and then change back but they fixed that. anyway.


gear ratios. you just change the final drive really. I mean you can spend time on your ratios. but sometimes they're a pain in the ***. cause you can rev match for one track but it'll be different for another track thats why its better to just leave it alone. if you need more speed move it towards speed and vice versa if you need more accelle.


alignment belive it or not this is the one of the places thats gonna give you the most grip.
some ppl think there is one or few camber settings but thats not true. cause camber is a very dynamic thing. and can affect your car in every way you'd think possible handling acceleration and breaking weight transference because its all about how much of the tire you've got in contact with the road in specific moments. so if you bring up a thing called the telemetry you can see exactly how a cars parts are working. camber suspension how hot your tires are. and if you look at camber you can see how it moves and fluctuates. now... there is two was you can tune our camber. but first let me explain how camber works. so if you already know you know its the top to down angle of the tire. when the top of the tire is tilted outwards thats positive If it tilts inward its negative. and when you drive in a straight line you get more negative camber in straights cause of the rear wheels. cause under acceleration when the weight transfers to the rear. it slightly compresses the suspension same goes for when you break. now when you take a corner your outside wheels experience most of the load your car has and more on your front or your rear depending how your weight distribution is on your car. okay so when your cars suspension is experiencing load in a corner. it compresses the suspension and there is only so much length before your cars wheels try to straighten back up. so in the middle of your cars compression you have a lot of camber but once it compresses all the way your wheel moves more towards positive and sometimes it can go over into positive specially in your base tune setup. you want to find the sweets spot in negative camber so it will be at zero when your mid flight in a corner. and thats what I call zero contact patching. which I categorize as a camber tuning method. the second method is tuning for the inside camber which will be your inside wheels camber. and why I do this is because being that your car experiences less load on the inside. it also experiences less stabilization. cause you are gonna have more camber than the outside on the inside. cause its a way lighter load. now normally I set the outside to where it compresses to zero then I work from there. now with this method sometimes you cant see what jts doing in telemetry cause its affects is a lot more minute than working with the outside wheels. so I do a small 2 lap race. always do two laps cause the first half of the lap your camber us completely unstable. and you wanna do that second lap to be able to see exactly how your camber is reacting to the road. but you do a small 2 lap race then go back and watch the replay with your telemetry up. and you can slow it down and rewind if you need to. to see exactly how your inside wheels camber is going through a corner and however your car handles there is a specific point in the corner where your inside wheel tries to straighten up and evening this out as close to zero as you can. can make your car handle a lot better cause. in that point in a turn you most of the time experienc us lot of understeer. and that can be fixed. and it gives you nice amount of handling in turns..



now your anti roll bars. can be kinda annoying to fool with. ive never liked messing with em. normally I set the front side to 14 and the rear to 12 or 11. and if I have handling problems. if you have understeer problems lower the front or stiffen the rear. vice versa if you have oversteer problems..


springs and ride hight is essentially linked to your camber as well as your oversteer or understeer. but also affects your weight transference and how much your cars suspension compresses. okay so weight transference is technically how your cars body roll is. or chassis movement. like if your in a car for real. you know how when you press on the breaks in real life or someone driving and annoyingly everything thats in a seat or in your hand wants to move towards the windshield 🤣🤣. yeah thats weight transference. along with something called lateral g's or g force. when you step on the gas weight shifts backwards. now for breaking suspension compression. that's called diving. acceleration compression thats called squatting. those terms will be a lil helpful later for when I talk about dampening. but springs is just raw weight transference and how much it compresses. now back to how I was talking about how camber is dynamic. compression in springs is directly linked to why the camber is dynamic. and if you've ever heard anyone tell you to lower your suspension all the way is because you don't want unconsistancies in your handling. cause if you lower your ride hight all the way. it reaches your max load faster. thus meaning your camber tries to straighten back up faster. the reason your camber and handling would be inconsistent with a higher ride hight is because in between your compression your handling fluctuates. and the higher your height the more unpredictable your cars camber will be now. it isn't really extreme unless you lowered all of your dampening your car turns into an untamed horse 🤣🤣. but yeah your handling is a lil more inconsistent if you have a higher ride height. now lowering your car all the way isnt good all the time. its really meant for tracks like Silverstone seibring catylunia circuit. you know flat tracks like that. stuff like Rio and nurburg you don't want a fully lowered car. as you'll bottom out. now granet if your car is lowered all the way it doesnt matter if the track is flat or not. you still experience bottoming out cause of compression but flat tracks is a lot less sever than uneven tracks. but how you slightly fix bottoming out is by stiffening your springs. but now Remember too stiff can also make your car skiddish.


alright dampening probably one of the most confusing and advance topics of it all.. what is dampening?.. well dampening is the speed of what a suspension compresses and uncompresses. therefore bump is compression and rebound is uncompression. so its basically the oils in the shock that flow through however many holes you allow the oils to flow through.. and the stiffer it is the less holes its able to flow through and the softer it is the more holes it flows through. now tuning the setting can be rather complicated. cause the thing is. how it works on the stiffer or softer can go either way. stiffening the front rebound can cause understeer or sometimes it can cause over steer and same goes for bump. now restricting the oils flow or not.has an affect on how the car handles massively. and you can make it to where your compression is like butter. or you can make it restricting. but this is what I've gathered over large amounts of time and practice involved. but from what I've heard but doesn't really help me that much is. a really stiff rebound and a really soft bump makes it to were that side compresses fast and tries to raise back up slow. but I've never really felt it like that. when I drive I personally feel like softening that side of the car both rebound and bump creates better compression and I think stiffening the bump increases compression and stiffening the rebound increases rebound speed. and softening does the opposite. thats what I feel anyway when I drive. plus it would make sense considering when you look up how dampening works thats exactly how it explains it.. but dampening to get it right. really matters on your feel. how you pick your lines your specific style of driving. how you engage in a turn. all plays a role. now breaking is simplistic ill let you do that.


the differential im just gonna say now it has an affect but not now a differential should okay so I forgot exactly how these things work exactly but. if you have oversteer on throttle you have too much oversteer and if you have understeer you have too little. and off throttle if you have oversteer you have top little deceleration and if you have lift off oversteer you have too much deceleration. if you have lift off understeer you have too little deceleration.. now differentials in forza 7 is kinda diffective. cause on acceleration in corners the power always goes to the wheel with the less resistance wich is the inside wheel. but no matter how high you put the acceleration. even all the way to 100 it still doesn't eradicate that on throttle understeer. and can be pretty annoying specially in sweeping turns. which is long turns. cause when your in online races cars with naturally better handling can out turn you in those turns because of this. and especially in online s class racing. but anyway. the only other thing I can tell you man. is just do rivals. to also just get overall better at driving. takes a lot of practice and as good as I was. and yes. quote "was" cause I havnt been able to play in almost a year cause my console broke. I still wasn't perfect at the game. I was in top 100 in the world. in r class id be in top 50 or so in the world but still that wasn't the best. id normally beat ppl online. cause scrubs are normally in online races 🤣. but I always try to get better... anyway I hope this helps you and anyone who reads this. hopefully I meet yall on forza 7 or potentially forza 8 someday. l8R ✌
Rank: Racing Permit
#24 Posted : Tuesday, November 24, 2020 10:24:28 PM(UTC)
That's a lot of info. Thanks.

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