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Rank: D-Class Racing License
 2 users liked this post.
#1126 Posted : Sunday, June 23, 2019 3:05:27 PM(UTC)
Just a quick note - I no longer have a TX wheel. I upgraded to a TS-XW (best $ I ever spent), and although so far the settings that work best for me are similar, I am by no means near finalising a good balance. Please no PM's re wheel settings until I post something here - thanks.
Rank: Driver's Permit
#1127 Posted : Tuesday, June 25, 2019 4:02:13 AM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: EpicEvan777 Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: TheRoadrunner77 Go to Quoted Post
Does anyone who is more competent than me know of any actual good Thrustmaster TX settings? Many settings I've tried just turned out to be drift settings, outdated by now, or felt awful (Too light or slow).


Originally Posted by: EpicEvan777 Go to Quoted Post
Here's my new settings for a light but communicative wheel for racing. Please remember to use this as a starting point & tweak it to your liking:

Force Feedback Scale: 200

(Keep this at 200. Do not change the Force Feedback Scale.)

Aligning Torque Scale: 200

(Decrease if you increase both the Mechanical Trail Scale & Pneumatic Trail Scale together. But if you do not increase either, keep it at 200.)

Mechanical Trail Scale: 39

Pneumatic Trail Scale: 20

(Decrease Mechanical Trail Scale & increase Pneumatic Trail Scale if you want to feel the load & of the tyre & peak grip / understeer more. If you want the wheel to rotate faster & smoother when counter-steering, increase Mechanical Trail Scale & decrease Pneumatic Trail Scale.)

Road Feel Scale: 20

(Bump the Road Feel Scale up to whatever you like if you'd like to feel more of the road surface & bumps. Make it higher for open wheel cars & race cars & lower for road cars. Do not go higher than the Pneumatic Trail with the Road Feel Scale.)

Load Sensitivity: 100 (Do not change.)

Wheel Damper Scale: 10 (Do not go any higher than this. It gives a small amount of resistance when stationary & prevents oscillations. If you set this higher than 10 it will interfere with the speed at which the wheel rotates when counter-steering. If you find the wheel to be too dead feeling or too sluggish, reduce completely.)

Centre Spring Scale: 10 (Do not go higher than this. Reduce if you feel the Dynamic Force Feedback is being effected negatively.)

Dynamic Damper Behavior: 100 (Do Not Reduce.)
Wheel Rotation Angle: 360 to 420 (F1, INDYCAR, LMP, FE, Track Day Cars) 720 to 840 (GT Cars, Touring Cars, Track Day Cars, Drift Cars) 900°+ (All Road Legal Cars.)

Steering Linearity: 47 (Do not go lower than 47 or higher than 50.)

Hope this helps everyone out!


These settings I listed earlier in the thread are meant for the Thrustmaster TX. If you haven't tried it yet, give it a go. If you have trialled it out & didn't enjoy it, let me know exactly what you don't like about it so I can point you in the correct direction.

I'm still tweaking some settings for a much heavier wheel but with a similar dynamic to the settings I've just quoted. Might have that done tonight.


What would I set my Control Panel settings to on PC if I were to use these settings?
Rank: A-Class Racing License
#1128 Posted : Friday, June 28, 2019 9:56:33 AM(UTC)
Sort of off topic but xbox announced that all xbox peripherals will work on the new scarlett. Does that mean if I buy a ts-xw that it will work on scarlett or is that just for xbox brand peripherals?
Rank: S-Class Racing License
 2 users liked this post.
#1129 Posted : Saturday, June 29, 2019 5:18:26 AM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: TheRoadrunner77 Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: EpicEvan777 Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: TheRoadrunner77 Go to Quoted Post
Does anyone who is more competent than me know of any actual good Thrustmaster TX settings? Many settings I've tried just turned out to be drift settings, outdated by now, or felt awful (Too light or slow).


Originally Posted by: EpicEvan777 Go to Quoted Post
Here's my new settings for a light but communicative wheel for racing. Please remember to use this as a starting point & tweak it to your liking:

Force Feedback Scale: 200

(Keep this at 200. Do not change the Force Feedback Scale.)

Aligning Torque Scale: 200

(Decrease if you increase both the Mechanical Trail Scale & Pneumatic Trail Scale together. But if you do not increase either, keep it at 200.)

Mechanical Trail Scale: 39

Pneumatic Trail Scale: 20

(Decrease Mechanical Trail Scale & increase Pneumatic Trail Scale if you want to feel the load & of the tyre & peak grip / understeer more. If you want the wheel to rotate faster & smoother when counter-steering, increase Mechanical Trail Scale & decrease Pneumatic Trail Scale.)

Road Feel Scale: 20

(Bump the Road Feel Scale up to whatever you like if you'd like to feel more of the road surface & bumps. Make it higher for open wheel cars & race cars & lower for road cars. Do not go higher than the Pneumatic Trail with the Road Feel Scale.)

Load Sensitivity: 100 (Do not change.)

Wheel Damper Scale: 10 (Do not go any higher than this. It gives a small amount of resistance when stationary & prevents oscillations. If you set this higher than 10 it will interfere with the speed at which the wheel rotates when counter-steering. If you find the wheel to be too dead feeling or too sluggish, reduce completely.)

Centre Spring Scale: 10 (Do not go higher than this. Reduce if you feel the Dynamic Force Feedback is being effected negatively.)

Dynamic Damper Behavior: 100 (Do Not Reduce.)
Wheel Rotation Angle: 360 to 420 (F1, INDYCAR, LMP, FE, Track Day Cars) 720 to 840 (GT Cars, Touring Cars, Track Day Cars, Drift Cars) 900°+ (All Road Legal Cars.)

Steering Linearity: 47 (Do not go lower than 47 or higher than 50.)

Hope this helps everyone out!


These settings I listed earlier in the thread are meant for the Thrustmaster TX. If you haven't tried it yet, give it a go. If you have trialled it out & didn't enjoy it, let me know exactly what you don't like about it so I can point you in the correct direction.

I'm still tweaking some settings for a much heavier wheel but with a similar dynamic to the settings I've just quoted. Might have that done tonight.


What would I set my Control Panel settings to on PC if I were to use these settings?

Sorry for the late reply, these are now my old settings, I'll update them tonight if possible with the PC Control Panel Settings.
Rank: Driver's Permit
#1130 Posted : Saturday, July 6, 2019 5:08:07 PM(UTC)
Just wanted to note my experience with the settings from the following:

https://www.youtube.com/...Zbc&feature=youtu.be

While I finally get a realistic response from my steering the one thing I found is I still cannot recover from a slide like I can on a controller. Don't know if this is just due to realism of wheel but if I leave braking arrows on I can recover on the controller on red arrows fairly regularly I can't on yellow/orange with the wheel.

I do have times where I can but other times it seems like no matter how much counter-steer (either littler or a lot) that I input It just spins out of control. I think from what I've read that I need to be in simulation not normal for these setting so I will try that tomorrow. However as it stands just can't drive as fast with these settings as I can on the controller (by a noticeable margin). Hopefully setting to simulation will fix this. Will report back when I have a chance to test.

I do want to be very clear though that with these settings the feedback is WAY more similar to real life racing. I had a race car for 2-3 years and before these settings I couldn't get the feedback necessary to truly asses the situation of my traction. So I think that while I have the feedback to know I'm going to fast it seems I don't have the feedback to discern how much counter-steer to provide to resolve the slide.
Rank: B-Class Racing License
#1131 Posted : Wednesday, July 10, 2019 10:55:42 AM(UTC)
Has anyone else noticed a thud in the force feedback when turning? Seems to happen at a certain amount of resistance in either direction. It starts to happen after several minutes of playing either FM7 or H4 and to fix it I have found that I have to hit the Xbox button and go to the home screen then straight back to the game and the issue is gone until the next time I start up the Xbox. I havnt been able to pinpoint a pattern that sets it off, seems to happen mid race. The thud also doesn't register on the force feedback live graph.

Thrustmaster TX r.54 on a OneX
Rank: S-Class Racing License
#1132 Posted : Wednesday, July 10, 2019 12:31:10 PM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: Russtic Go to Quoted Post
Has anyone else noticed a thud in the force feedback when turning? Seems to happen at a certain amount of resistance in either direction. It starts to happen after several minutes of playing either FM7 or H4 and to fix it I have found that I have to hit the Xbox button and go to the home screen then straight back to the game and the issue is gone until the next time I start up the Xbox. I havnt been able to pinpoint a pattern that sets it off, seems to happen mid race. The thud also doesn't register on the force feedback live graph.

Thrustmaster TX r.54 on a OneX

Never noticed this. Running a TX as well.

Are all drivers and firmware up to date?

What are your FFB settings?
Rank: S-Class Racing License
#1133 Posted : Wednesday, July 10, 2019 6:16:46 PM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: IR STiGGLES Go to Quoted Post
Sort of off topic but xbox announced that all xbox peripherals will work on the new scarlett. Does that mean if I buy a ts-xw that it will work on scarlett or is that just for xbox brand peripherals?


If it's licensed to work on the Xbox One consoles, it will work on the Scarlett Consoles. A TS-XW, TMX, TX, G920, Fanatec CSL/CS/Podium bases with XB1 Licensed wheel rims, Hori Wheels, and the XB1 Controllers, Fight Sticks and what not, will work. The only thing I have no clue on if it would work with the Scarlett is the XB1's Kinect. Then again, I'm not sure if anyone cares about the Kinect working.

Time to hit the road.

Take care!
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 1 user liked this post.
#1134 Posted : Monday, July 22, 2019 2:25:29 AM(UTC)
Hello everyone, a long-time lurker here. Thought I'll share my settings since it's such a complex and subjective topic.

I'm using a Thrustmaster TMX Pro (with the T3PA pedals) updated to the latest firmware on an Xbox One S. I just started playing Forza Motorsports 7 about 2 weeks ago (have 17 hours of playtime on FM7). Before that I played Project CARS for 90 hours.
Initially I configured the wheel settings using Blue028's (thanks for sharing your setup) values from here and adjusted to my liking: https://forums.forzamoto...-think.aspx#post_1093655

Quote:

Assists:

Braking: ABS On
Steering: Simulation
Traction Control: Off
Stability Control: Off
Shifting: Manual
Friction Assist: Off
Collision Assist: Off



Advanced Controller Options

Vibration Scale: 50
Force Feedback scale: 130
Aligning Torque Scale: 100
Mechanical Trail Scale: 110
Pneumatic Trail Scale: 160
Road Feel Scale: 75
Load Sensitivity: 30
Wheel Damper Scale: 25
Center Spring Scale: 0
Dynamic Damper Behaviour: 100
Wheel Rotation Angle: 720
Steering Linearity: 50


For the moment these are the settings that I feel most comfortable with, since it feels close to how it felt on Project CARS. Still some of my cars start to spin when accelerating too heavily out of corners and I'm having a difficult time to correct the spin once the car is sliding. This is mostly the case with strong/heavy cars (like the Ferrari FF AWD or the Porsche 911 GT2 RS), so I need to be very careful with acceleration when leaving a turn.

For the wheel rotation angle I keep the game's settings at 720 and use the wheel's mode settings ("mode" + right shifter) to change to a lower wheel rotation angle for open-wheel cars. A quick note: for open-wheel cars, it is recommended to use manual shifting, otherwise it's nearly impossible to start a race in a straight line in a Lotus Type 49.

Thanks for everyone who provided their settings here, it helped me setup mine. Let me know if there's anything I can improve on my side.

Edited by user Sunday, August 18, 2019 10:45:02 PM(UTC)  | Reason: I updated my wheel settings

Rank: Driver's Permit
#1135 Posted : Monday, September 23, 2019 10:56:01 AM(UTC)
Hello everyone.
I ask the question here, I'm looking for a steering wheel setting for the TS-XW sparco on X-Box-One. If FACR Mechanical goes through here, would be really nice to share, your TX settings were great.
Thank you.
Rank: D-Class Racing License
 1 user liked this post.
#1136 Posted : Monday, October 7, 2019 9:26:27 PM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: BRT Yanintrus Go to Quoted Post
Hello everyone.
I ask the question here, I'm looking for a steering wheel setting for the TS-XW sparco on X-Box-One. If FACR Mechanical goes through here, would be really nice to share, your TX settings were great.
Thank you.


Thanks mate. Current settings on the TS-XW:

VIB 805
FFS 65
ATS 105
MTS 145
PTS 1305
RFS 65
LS 65
WDS 65
CSS 5
DDB 65
WRA 900
SL 50

Higher powered cars I adjust Wheel Tuning Steering Lock to 90 and for some cars the Wheel Tuning FFB Scale to 95. Other than that, this is a solid setup for most cars/tracks. You may want to bump up the FFB Scale a bit, depends on your preference.

Cheers.

Edited by user Tuesday, October 8, 2019 1:09:27 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Rank: Racing Permit
#1137 Posted : Tuesday, October 8, 2019 12:04:51 AM(UTC)
I figured out that I need to turn "Traction Control" (TCS) on to make my gameplay more enjoyable. The cars spin out so easily if you are not careful when accelerating out of corners. It also makes it a lot more difficult to drift cars which are not tuned/upgraded for drifting.
Rank: Driver's License
#1138 Posted : Wednesday, October 30, 2019 5:12:46 AM(UTC)
Just got myself a Logitech g920 and after only using a standard controller before and im enjoying the change. Only thing im not happy about is how the cars feel like they continue to rotate after corner exit and is noticeably making me slower than before. Only seems to be a problem on FM7.

Anyone got some tips or settings that could help with this ?
Rank: Driver's License
#1139 Posted : Monday, January 6, 2020 5:29:38 AM(UTC)
Anyone have a good realistic settings for the Logitech g920 on the Xbox One ???
Rank: B-Class Racing License
#1140 Posted : Monday, January 6, 2020 8:07:08 AM(UTC)
If I know the feeling you're talking about, I felt it during braking too--any amount of steering under heavy braking upset the car in the strangest ways. It was like there was a spring-suspended mass inside of the car, destabilizing it.
Rank: A-Class Racing License
 1 user liked this post.
#1141 Posted : Monday, January 6, 2020 8:43:02 AM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: John74 Go to Quoted Post
Just got myself a Logitech g920 and after only using a standard controller before and im enjoying the change. Only thing im not happy about is how the cars feel like they continue to rotate after corner exit and is noticeably making me slower than before. Only seems to be a problem on FM7.

Anyone got some tips or settings that could help with this ?


Practice throttle modulation and get the wheel back centered quicker. You may not notice when going from pad to a wheel, but there are a lot of little things you did a pad which may take some muscle retraining to do on a wheel. You may have been easier onto the throttle with a pad because you have been doing it for a while, while now that you are using pedals with no feedback you dont realize you are being more agressive. Also, you may not notice that you were letting go of the steering joystick sooner and it centers very quickly whereas you may need to consciously recenter your steering wheel quicker to catch up to the instant recenter done by just letting go of the stick before.

PTG Home

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Tester
Tuner
Rank: A-Class Racing License
#1142 Posted : Thursday, January 16, 2020 6:32:48 AM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: NumberlessMath Go to Quoted Post
If I know the feeling you're talking about, I felt it during braking too--any amount of steering under heavy braking upset the car in the strangest ways. It was like there was a spring-suspended mass inside of the car, destabilizing it.


You also have to take into account what drive wheels and where the engine is placed in the car for this behavior. You can have weight transfer that makes the rear come around. Other settings like brake bias, the tire size differences, front-to-rear differences in the suspension, aero, even differential deceleration settings all can upset a car under heavy braking/turning to make it want to swap ends. You'd be surprised how much the differential settings alone can cause havoc with lift throttle oversteer. The differential is one of the first things I'll tune after I have my car built up and on the track from A class up(or ANY car on dirt like in FH4). Makes sure you can apply power on exit smoothly and be also able to lift off the gas pedal under braking. You may have just upgraded a D class car to A and the default differential it had before you made a 400% horsepower increase was virtually a full locker when it had 89hp, turning it into a drift car in the snow no matter what tires your stick on it.

A tune you thought was great with a controller(or one you randomly downloaded) can be awful with a wheel. Or it could just be an old Porsche ;) Some cars no mater what the tune, like a Porsche 935(RWD), you just do NOT brake and turn at the same time. When I was big into tuning/painting years ago, I would always label my tunes a wheel-specific tune.

Edited by user Thursday, January 16, 2020 6:43:45 AM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Rank: A-Class Racing License
 1 user liked this post.
#1143 Posted : Thursday, January 16, 2020 7:34:51 AM(UTC)
As far as FFB, I chased settings endlessly with CSW 2.5 following the 820+ versions of the 'perfect' setup(that were all different-of course). I pretty much stopped playing FM7. If you get any ONE aspect too far out of whack, you will never get it right. I went back to the Fanatec recommended settings and only tweaked a couple things and found it great. Pretty sure I originally started there and within 5 minutes saw a post of video that said turn this up to 200 etc and it was a mind-numbingly frustrating time vampire. It became the 'play with wheel settings game'. After simply just switching to AC(boring) and my standard F12017/18/19(big commitment) I figured I would just blank everything and start again.

With only a few tweaks to Fanatec's settings, I was THERE, and as happy as I was when I had my old CSR wheel in FM4 just 'oh so right' years ago.

I will tell you, for setting ANY FFB to your 'liking' first do these few non-ffb things:

Turn the Tire Sound to off or virtually zero when tuning(I think mine is ~10%)
-This sound is not representative of any real indication of actual grip, nor is it nuanced. It will mess with your perceived 'feel' of the car/wheel. It can help after you feel like you are in a car, but it's an on/off switch sound and is WAY too loud and ever present by default. When you are setting your wheel up you are far too sensitive searching for every detail. Just turn it off or way down when first setting up.

Turn vibration to virtually zero when tuning. I actually LIKE it, but very subtly(again I'm somewhere around 15% after tuning the wheel). It be used as a tool, even again not detailed like tire squeal, but doesn't work very well if you're not confident in your setup to start with. If I'm on the edge of grip and on a bumpy track, the vibrations is there, but it's like 1/10th of what I'm feeling combined on the wheel.

Turn OFF any suggested line of any type.
Your brain will be searching for the perfect line following little dots no matter how experienced you are at these games or a given track. Don't chase a line around(it's not even really customized to your car, many cars can go full bore through bright red lines), look at visual cues, aim for lines and apexes and focus what's not matching in tactile feel vs what you 'think' you should be feeling. Be a driver, not a hamster Pac Man. And just as you become comfortable running a a racing line, start missing them on purpose, hitting curbs to hard, putting two in the grass, etc.

Use a non 'gimmicky' track to test.
Some tracks are a wet-hot mess, like maple valley reverse that are definitely not the venue to set FFB too. Even perfectly set up FFB it's still more of a track for pattern feel and muscle memory versus a true 'driving' experience. But with a strong FFB wheel properly setup, hitting the jump is still ridiculous awesome. Stick with clear cut race tracks with few surprises but technical sections(Mugello/Yas Marinas/Suzuka, etc) that are easy to repeat lines lap after lap. When you think you have it right move to more intense race tracks (VIR/Laguna Seca/the 'ring/Spa, etc) that have 'hang on for dear life' moments no matter how many times you've lapped them. And if it feels great on those, but feels **** on Burnese Alps or Maple Valley, don't sweat it (theyr're not exactly laser-scanned) and keep the wheel tuning menu closed. It's too bad there's no Tsukuba, probably the best FM track ever for testing/racing/drifting normal D-A class street cars :(

USE DIFFERENT CARS TO TEST!
Don't hotlap a LMP car with a randomly downloaded tune to spend endless hours setting feedback. Avoid an 80's super laggy IMSA turbo race car too. Start with an honest FE/RWD racer, like a GT3 BMW. Then try a stock MK1 VW GTI, then a Ferrari 458, etc. Use tight small (simple) tracks for small cars and mid size fast tracks for faster ones. Don't waste your time going 87mph flat out down the mulsanne. When it's 'right', you should really feel you can overwork the spongy wheel on an 80s's hatchback and just flat out punish the car and tires, and you feel like your life is completely at the mercy of your throttle modulation to the mm flat out around the off camber gigantic uphill sweeper at Mugello. Remember when you are in a car that has garbage tires and suspension, expect FFB for a crummy car with crappy tires when getting a 'feel' for that one.

I find if you get it right, you should only tinker with the car-specific wheel settings. I find I crank up the FFB on slow cars a bit and the race cars down. My FFB in game is 100(auto on wheel). Makes a D class beater hatchback feel great when you pummel a curb and jack the side up with a huge swing of the wheel and just stomp on the gas to pull the front tires back in line into an under/over/under-steery sliding mess, and you still make the pass-excitement at 34mph! And remember, some cars are just **** to drive without a lot of tuning(if ever). I must of had 40 hours just lapping and tweaking(this is all post-patch) with zero happiness before taking a break.

After taking a break from the game, I threw away all the note pads and deleted all the phone screenshots of settings, went to defaults, put it what Fanatec said to do, tweaked a few small things for a couple hours, and was good to go. I actually am back enjoying tuning the CARS again.

Edited by user Thursday, January 16, 2020 8:28:55 AM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Rank: Racing Permit
#1144 Posted : Friday, January 17, 2020 12:23:29 AM(UTC)
Great advice phut yoo! These tips are helpful for the wheel setup.

Originally Posted by: phut yoo Go to Quoted Post
Turn OFF any suggested line of any type.
Your brain will be searching for the perfect line following little dots no matter how experienced you are at these games or a given track. Don't chase a line around(it's not even really customized to your car, many cars can go full bore through bright red lines), look at visual cues, aim for lines and apexes and focus what's not matching in tactile feel vs what you 'think' you should be feeling. Be a driver, not a hamster Pac Man. And just as you become comfortable running a a racing line, start missing them on purpose, hitting curbs to hard, putting two in the grass, etc.

Use a non 'gimmicky' track to test.
Some tracks are a wet-hot mess, like maple valley reverse that are definitely not the venue to set FFB too. Even perfectly set up FFB it's still more of a track for pattern feel and muscle memory versus a true 'driving' experience. But with a strong FFB wheel properly setup, hitting the jump is still ridiculous awesome. Stick with clear cut race tracks with few surprises but technical sections(Mugello/Yas Marinas/Suzuka, etc) that are easy to repeat lines lap after lap. When you think you have it right move to more intense race tracks (VIR/Laguna Seca/the 'ring/Spa, etc) that have 'hang on for dear life' moments no matter how many times you've lapped them. And if it feels great on those, but feels **** on Burnese Alps or Maple Valley, don't sweat it (theyr're not exactly laser-scanned) and keep the wheel tuning menu closed. It's too bad there's no Tsukuba, probably the best FM track ever for testing/racing/drifting normal D-A class street cars :(


I did something similar to these points to re-configure the settings of my Thrustmaster TMX Pro. I used the 2008 BMW Z4 M Coupe with TCS off on Suzuka, since I had a lot of trouble controlling that car during a race and Suzuku because while I drove on that track a few times I still cannot predict each turn. After using a suggested configuration and slightly adjusted the values to my liking I was able to have a few satisfying rounds with that car.

I posted my current settings here: https://forums.forzamotorsport.net/turn10_postsm1140505findlastpost_Simple-Ask--TMX-Wheel-Settings.aspx#post1140505
Rank: B-Class Racing License
#1145 Posted : Wednesday, June 10, 2020 2:20:22 PM(UTC)
Sorry for the necro bump but are there any solid wheel/game settings for A fanatec CSWB V2? I tried playing the game just now and I am still not even close to impressed. There is 0 bite on center cant feel rumbles or anything car wanders and oversteer feels wack AF... Tried some settings on the Fanatec forum but yeah still felt terribad. I'm on PC.

Edited by user Wednesday, June 10, 2020 2:21:54 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Rank: Driver's License
#1146 Posted : Thursday, June 11, 2020 10:50:33 AM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: Nexxus1705 Go to Quoted Post
Sorry for the necro bump but are there any solid wheel/game settings for A fanatec CSWB V2? I tried playing the game just now and I am still not even close to impressed. There is 0 bite on center cant feel rumbles or anything car wanders and oversteer feels wack AF... Tried some settings on the Fanatec forum but yeah still felt terribad. I'm on PC.


I use a CSW and I think I have it set up... ...OK. Spring centering is still **** but... I'll see if I can cap and post my settings tonight. In the meantime set your wheel (not the game) to max everything with ACL and DRI to off. Go to a test drive session and then to "Tune Steering Wheel". Set steering sensitivity to 80% and try it out. Setting it here will only apply it to that car so if you like it you will need to set it in the global wheel settings.

The settings screen caps should be in my activity feed.

Edited by user Thursday, June 11, 2020 3:51:47 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Rank: B-Class Racing License
#1147 Posted : Thursday, June 11, 2020 8:15:25 PM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: ruet Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: Nexxus1705 Go to Quoted Post
Sorry for the necro bump but are there any solid wheel/game settings for A fanatec CSWB V2? I tried playing the game just now and I am still not even close to impressed. There is 0 bite on center cant feel rumbles or anything car wanders and oversteer feels wack AF... Tried some settings on the Fanatec forum but yeah still felt terribad. I'm on PC.


I use a CSW and I think I have it set up... ...OK. Spring centering is still **** but... I'll see if I can cap and post my settings tonight. In the meantime set your wheel (not the game) to max everything with ACL and DRI to off. Go to a test drive session and then to "Tune Steering Wheel". Set steering sensitivity to 80% and try it out. Setting it here will only apply it to that car so if you like it you will need to set it in the global wheel settings.

The settings screen caps should be in my activity feed.


Thanks will give this a look tmw, how do I access your activity feed? I dont use FM.net much these days.
Rank: B-Class Racing License
#1148 Posted : Friday, June 12, 2020 2:43:17 AM(UTC)
^ Xbox Live PC app
Rank: Driver's License
#1149 Posted : Friday, June 12, 2020 6:30:06 AM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: NumberlessMath Go to Quoted Post
^ Xbox Live PC app


Yup. If you can't see my feed without being on my friends list you can go ahead and add me. Something to note though. After I took the screencaps I decided to do a little driving and the damping (effort it take to turn the wheel) was non-existent. I had to go into settings change and save the damping then change it back.
Rank: Driver's Permit
#1150 Posted : Saturday, June 13, 2020 11:57:48 AM(UTC)
nice
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