This site uses cookies for analytics and personalized content. By continuing to browse this site, you agree to this use. Learn more
30 Pages<<2627282930PrevNext
Rank: D-Class Racing License
 1 user liked this post.
#676 Posted : Friday, February 8, 2019 8:44:25 PM(UTC)
Ok, so I've learn't a few things in re-tuning the wheel after the latest update. First up, DOR/WRA makes a huuuge difference. So do steering deadzones. I'm now at default 0 and 100 after spending most of my racing time at 0-80. End result is a smoother more linear feel and performance. I'm now at 900 DOR/WRA on both the Control Panel and in game for the TX wheel >>>it makes most sense to think of WRA/DOR as 'Steering Sensitivity'. At 900 it was very precise but in the end too precise on higher powered cars - many visits to the kittly litter from a slight quick steering adjustment - so takling the edge off by lowering this a little makes a lot of sense<<< 720 feels easier still but at 900 you are getting more realism for sure. It took a little adjusting to but the end result is incredibly smooth and realistic feel. The wheel felt quite dead, unresponsive and uncommunicative to me after the Feb update. I've put in some laps in testing and some under race conditions, across a range of vehicles, and this is what I've come up with. I believe that the feeling achieved after the update is much smoother overall and yet sharper responsiveness wise, as well as there being some nice communication of road surface feel. I still have not quite recaptured the tyre scrubbing on the limit of past configurations, but I will keep working on it. It's still there, but it's more of a faint sliding sensation and slight twitch of the wheel than before. PTS is at 140-145 as I'm still a little torn here. 145 feels more realistic but it is not going to be quite as smooth, with it easier to lose traction in a tight, quick bend than at 140. I do agree as has been said on here a few times that the update makes it easier to catch the tail - well, at least you have a chance now anyway, rather than suddenly seeing a tyre wall.

What we have so far, which is quite a departure from previous versions, is:

VS 85
FFS 105
ATS 115
MTS 165
PTS 140-145
RFS 85
WDS 60 - will test lowering this also
CCS 25
WRA 720-900

Hopefully you will enjoy, and tweak to your own requirements. Best tested using the 2005 BMW M3 at S724 using either my tune or FACR Slarty's at Suzuka. Happy racing!

Edited by user Monday, February 11, 2019 1:29:28 PM(UTC)  | Reason: I can't spell

Rank: A-Class Racing License
 1 user liked this post.
#677 Posted : Friday, February 8, 2019 10:11:41 PM(UTC)
Thanks for posting this, I will try it out tomorrow and compare it with what I came up with. A bit different but I was looking for a 720 DOR...will see how much different it feels in both 900 and 720 and Also compare it to my current 720 I will let you know what I think.....again Thanks for posting.
Rank: D-Class Racing License
 1 user liked this post.
#678 Posted : Friday, February 8, 2019 10:24:06 PM(UTC)
Thanks DTD. It’s still a work in progress. I may have to dial FFS back a bit. We will see. I just ran it with 720 and I might actually prefer it. Not quite as smooth but easier to control and aim. Thanks for the prompt!

Edited by user Friday, February 8, 2019 10:24:38 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Rank: B-Class Racing License
#679 Posted : Saturday, February 9, 2019 4:06:03 AM(UTC)
I have to agree that after the update going back to 900 and 0-100 feels much smoother on the CSW V2.5. Going to play around with a few other settings and see what effect it has.
Rank: B-Class Racing License
 1 user liked this post.
#680 Posted : Saturday, February 9, 2019 5:18:39 AM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: FACR Mechanical Go to Quoted Post
Ok, so I've learn't a few things in re-tuning the wheel after the latest update. First up, DOR/WRA makes a huuuge difference. So do steering deadzones. I'm now at default 0 and 100 after spending most of my racing time at 0-80. End result is a smoother more linear feel and performance. I'm now at 900 DOR/WRA on both the Control Panel and in game for the TX wheel. 720 feels easier still but at 900 you are getting more realism for sure. It took a little adjusting to but the end result is incredibly smooth and realistic feel. The wheel felt quite dead, unresponsive and uncommunicative to me after the Feb update. I've put in some laps in testing and some under race conditions, across a range of vehicles, and this is what I've come up with. I believe that the feeling achieved after the update is much smoother overall and yet sharper responsiveness wise, as well as there being some nice communication of road surface feel. I still have not quite recaptured the tyre scrubbing on the limit of past configurations, but I will keep working on it. It's still there, but it's more of a faint sliding sensation and slight twitch of the wheel than before. PTS is at 140-145 as I'm still a little torn here. 145 feels more realistic but it is not going to be quite as smooth, with it easier to lose traction in a tight, quick bend than at 140. I do agree as has been said on here a few times that the update makes it easier to catch the tail - well, at least you have a chance now anyway, rather than suddenly seeing a tyre wall.

What we have so far, which is quite a departure from previous versions, is:

VS 85
FFS 105
ATS 115
MTS 165
PTS 140-145
RFS 85
WDS 60
CCS 25
WRA 720-900

Hopefully you will enjoy, and tweak to your own requirements. Best tested using the 2005 BMW M3 at S724 using either my tune or FACR Slarty's at Suzuka. Happy racing!


I’ve been using 840 with your old settings I’ll give these a try today thanks for posting them.

Edited by user Saturday, February 9, 2019 9:22:14 AM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Thrustmaster TX on a homemade wooden frame on Xbox one

40" Samsung TV on a Slider to adjust for using dash view




Rank: Racing Permit
 1 user liked this post.
#681 Posted : Saturday, February 9, 2019 10:25:38 AM(UTC)
Did the FM7 update today and revisited the BMW M8 GTE. I’ll have to say it felt a bit more responsive to steering inputs. I was able to adjust the center spring up a bit also without any oscillation. Finally just lowered the Mech Trail a bit so the ABS wasn’t so abrupt, and I was totally pleased with it. G920 at 900 DOR. Completely transforms FM7 as a game worth playing. Once the "Save by car class" becomes a reality, it will actually be very practical.

Vibe 98
FFB gain 72
Align 97
Mech 170
Pneu 118
Road 180
Damp 65
C Sprg 10
Rot 900
ST Lin 44
Shneeb108-RST Member/GTR_Legion Member
Shneeb
Rank: S-Class Racing License
#682 Posted : Saturday, February 9, 2019 8:19:31 PM(UTC)
So I've done a little more testing here's some more of my thoughts:

Damper is far less important now after the update which is a good thing. Even with very high FFB, the wheel will oscillate but not to the point where the car goes out of control. Previously a bit of damper was needed to prevent this from happening. Damper is still useful, especially when traveling under 13 KMH but it's not so much required now.

I don't however like how ABS feels with the new FFB which is a shame. I don't usually use ABS but when I turned it on for testing, the wheel jerks & shakes very harsh when braking. It's a real shame because I think the FFB really lends itself to having extremely high Mechanical Trail & Aligning Torque, but having both these settings high is a real detriment when using ABS so it's almost like a double edge sword. Thankfully for me I don't use ABS so it's not so much a problem but if someone does, they'll have to sacrifice the Mechanical Trail a slight bit.

I'm going to do a bit more testing before giving my settings, but I'm getting there at a reasonable pace.
Rank: D-Class Racing License
#683 Posted : Saturday, February 9, 2019 8:44:08 PM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: FACR Mechanical Go to Quoted Post


What we have so far, which is quite a departure from previous versions, is:

VS 85
FFS 105
ATS 115
MTS 165
PTS 140-145
RFS 85
WDS 60
CCS 25
WRA 720-900

Hopefully you will enjoy, and tweak to your own requirements. Best tested using the 2005 BMW M3 at S724 using either my tune or FACR Slarty's at Suzuka. Happy racing!


Well, after a couple of hours of FACR's HLC, with the notoriously difficult to handle Rally Heroes at Dubai Full Reverse of all places, the settings have predictably changed. Too much wheel wrestling and too hard to control in the windy bits. I think I got a bit carried away in bumping the FFS up. I'm now running VS 90, FFS at 100 RFS at 90 and PTS at 135. WRA/DOR I'm still experimenting with, but now I'm down towards the lower end of the scale again (780). I expect the tweaking shall continue ...

Edited by user Saturday, February 9, 2019 8:46:44 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Rank: A-Class Racing License
 1 user liked this post.
#684 Posted : Saturday, February 9, 2019 9:35:21 PM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: FACR Mechanical Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: FACR Mechanical Go to Quoted Post


What we have so far, which is quite a departure from previous Settings.
VS 85
FFS 105
ATS 115
MTS 165
PTS 140-145
RFS 85
WDS 60
CCS 25
WRA 720-900

Hopefully you will enjoy, and tweak to your own requirements. Best tested using the 2005 BMW M3 at S724 using either my tune or FACR Slarty's at Suzuka. Happy racing!


Well, after a couple of hours of FACR's HLC, with the notoriously difficult to handle Rally Heroes at Dubai Full Reverse of all places, the settings have predictably changed. Too much wheel wrestling and too hard to control in the windy bits. I think I got a bit carried away in bumping the FFS up. I'm now running VS 90, FFS at 100 RFS at 90 and PTS at 135. WRA/DOR I'm still experimenting with, but now I'm down towards the lower end of the scale again (780). I expect the tweaking shall continue ...


I came up with some settings that I think are the best I have found since this all started...but it may not be for all wheels. As I understand Fanatec wheels have some damper built into its FFB and as pointed out by Blue028 that there is a limit of about 35 for the FFB setting to avoid clipping with the Fanatec wheels. ( I was not sure if that was for the wheel settings or the in game settings so I set both to that and started playing with the settings. ( I actually tried every setting posted in this thread over the last 2 days ) what I found was I could never get everything to feel right at the same time. I took a combination of settings and started tweeting. Came up with something really nice but it uses both Fanatec and in game FFB settings so it may feel different on a non Fanatec wheel so please try it out and post any thoughts...

Everything at off or 0 on the Wheel settings but Sen at 720 and FFB at 36 ( ABS---67 and BRF---50 or to your liking as these just affect brakes
I use Sim Steering and have not tried normal yet but Sim feels really good....and all assists off

In game settings
Vib.....62
FFB.....35
ATS.....100
MTS....165
PTS.....104
RFS.....60
WD......6
CSS......2
WRA...720
SL.........50

I really hope it feels as good as mine or at least gives someone a good base to start with.
Please if someone has a Fanatec wheel on Xbox please try these out including the wheel settings and post any thoughts....non Fanatec wheels too but just the in game settings.

Rank: D-Class Racing License
#685 Posted : Sunday, February 10, 2019 5:56:56 AM(UTC)
I've been having some more fun with the latest FFB and the 2019 GT3 RS wheel feel on the TX458 wheel is just superb, it really does feel like the real car. Just as in the real GT3 RS there is a slight indication of understeer before the car oversteers, the move into oversteer is progressive and can be caught relatively easily as long as the car isn't way over the limit. The feel is so good I could drive laps at the Nordschleife all day and I didn't think I'd ever be writing that about Forza 7 on the wheel.

2019 GT3 RS Forza vs Real World Nordschleife Record Lap
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kW_ykvqSXX4

For fun I wanted to see how closely the Forza GT3 RS could match the real world Nordschleife 6:56 record lap. Ultimately the real car has slightly more grip and higher apex speeds than the Forza car, the Forza GT3 RS in turn has slightly higher top speed on the main straight which makes up the difference. For around 90% of the lap they are as good as identical.


Truly impressive and once you find settings that feel dialled in for you the level of trust in the cars increases and lap times get faster. All my 'ring lap times are faster with the latest FFB and the cars are noticeably more stable under braking on the wheel too. I've run this scenario in other similar games too and they are all now remarkably similar, again I didn't think Forza wheel feedback would be as close to the other leading games as it now is.
Rank: A-Class Racing License
 2 users liked this post.
#686 Posted : Sunday, February 10, 2019 9:44:04 AM(UTC)
After my latest setting I feel the same way mark....I really enjoy FM7 even more now...I have a few world wide 5th places and better and over 40 top 20 spots....I only hope more find the settings they are looking for. Doing my best to help others with that but everyone has a different idea of what it should feel like and it's hard to make everyone happy with the same set up....
Rank: D-Class Racing License
 1 user liked this post.
#687 Posted : Sunday, February 10, 2019 11:00:44 AM(UTC)
That is great with the LB times and places going Dan. I'll be back in the Fanatec fold from late April onwards too.

I agree, I'm always happy to share my settings and help others but once another person is holding the wheel it all becomes so subjective. Trying a few of the shared settings here as a baseline and then spending time with a well known car and track combination to dial in the wheel to person preference is about the best thing people can do now.


As a group of wheel using friends we had a huge amount of fun in a Nordscheife 'Meet Up', basically an online track day, this afternoon running around in B, A and S class for a few laps at a time. The verdict was the we haven't enjoyed Forza this much for years!


Oh if anyone has any settings for the Logitech G920 wheel please post them up, we have a couple of our group using them and I haven't seen any settings for the latest update.
Rank: S-Class Racing License
 1 user liked this post.
#688 Posted : Sunday, February 10, 2019 11:28:48 AM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: Mark Races Go to Quoted Post
I've been having some more fun with the latest FFB and the 2019 GT3 RS wheel feel on the TX458 wheel is just superb, it really does feel like the real car. Just as in the real GT3 RS there is a slight indication of understeer before the car oversteers, the move into oversteer is progressive and can be caught relatively easily as long as the car isn't way over the limit. The feel is so good I could drive laps at the Nordschleife all day and I didn't think I'd ever be writing that about Forza 7 on the wheel.

2019 GT3 RS Forza vs Real World Nordschleife Record Lap
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kW_ykvqSXX4

For fun I wanted to see how closely the Forza GT3 RS could match the real world Nordschleife 6:56 record lap. Ultimately the real car has slightly more grip and higher apex speeds than the Forza car, the Forza GT3 RS in turn has slightly higher top speed on the main straight which makes up the difference. For around 90% of the lap they are as good as identical.


Truly impressive and once you find settings that feel dialled in for you the level of trust in the cars increases and lap times get faster. All my 'ring lap times are faster with the latest FFB and the cars are noticeably more stable under braking on the wheel too. I've run this scenario in other similar games too and they are all now remarkably similar, again I didn't think Forza wheel feedback would be as close to the other leading games as it now is.

Just a little trivia, I actually make realistic tunes for cars using real world data in Forza 7 & one of those is the GT3 RS. I went so far as to find the actual real life spring rates of the car & plugged them into the game. If you ever want to try the time just hmu on here.

Funny thing though when doing research there's a few peculiar things. No. 1 the rear wing on the GT3 RS isn't adjustable like it is IRL & No. 2 the GT3 RS actually produces more downforce that the GT2 RS irl... it's some crazy car.

Anyways the top speed in Forza is actually petty accurate to irl. It's just that irl, they added a lot more downforce to the car for the ring time.
Rank: D-Class Racing License
#689 Posted : Sunday, February 10, 2019 12:48:01 PM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: EpicEvan777 Go to Quoted Post

Just a little trivia, I actually make realistic tunes for cars using real world data in Forza 7 & one of those is the GT3 RS. I went so far as to find the actual real life spring rates of the car & plugged them into the game. If you ever want to try the time just hmu on here.

Funny thing though when doing research there's a few peculiar things. No. 1 the rear wing on the GT3 RS isn't adjustable like it is IRL & No. 2 the GT3 RS actually produces more downforce that the GT2 RS irl... it's some crazy car.

Anyways the top speed in Forza is actually petty accurate to irl. It's just that irl, they added a lot more downforce to the car for the ring time.



Thanks Evan, that makes a lot of sense with the downforce. There was just no way I could seem to match those apex speeds in some corners. We were discussing this earlier today and thought it might have been a special set of tyres. A little like the tyres run on the Civic Type R for it's 'ring lap that were just labelled Bridgestone and had no other branding along with the roll cage that didn't add any rigidity...according to Honda! These 'ring records are as much a PR stunt as anything so I'm not surprised the car was specifically set up for the attempt. Good fun all the same and close enough for me, especially with the improved FFB.




Rank: B-Class Racing License
 2 users liked this post.
#690 Posted : Sunday, February 10, 2019 8:38:07 PM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: Mark Races Go to Quoted Post
I've been having some more fun with the latest FFB and the 2019 GT3 RS wheel feel on the TX458 wheel is just superb, it really does feel like the real car. Just as in the real GT3 RS there is a slight indication of understeer before the car oversteers, the move into oversteer is progressive and can be caught relatively easily as long as the car isn't way over the limit.


May I ask, what tire pressures you're using? That sounds like how my GT3 in Horizon 4 was behaving, until I lowered the front tires to 23 psi and raised the rear to 33. A variant of that, with according changes in the rest of your tune, should pick up some time and quell the "undesteer, then oversteer" behaviors. It will just grip like crazy everywhere until you lift off the gas too suddenly. :D
Rank: D-Class Racing License
 1 user liked this post.
#691 Posted : Monday, February 11, 2019 4:20:43 AM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: GreatFlea815883 Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: Mark Races Go to Quoted Post
I've been having some more fun with the latest FFB and the 2019 GT3 RS wheel feel on the TX458 wheel is just superb, it really does feel like the real car. Just as in the real GT3 RS there is a slight indication of understeer before the car oversteers, the move into oversteer is progressive and can be caught relatively easily as long as the car isn't way over the limit.


May I ask, what tire pressures you're using? That sounds like how my GT3 in Horizon 4 was behaving, until I lowered the front tires to 23 psi and raised the rear to 33. A variant of that, with according changes in the rest of your tune, should pick up some time and quell the "undesteer, then oversteer" behaviors. It will just grip like crazy everywhere until you lift off the gas too suddenly. :D


Thanks I'll give that a go, along with adding some rear downforce via the Forza rear spoiler.
Rank: C-Class Racing License
#692 Posted : Tuesday, February 12, 2019 4:32:57 AM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: Dan the Dartman Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: FACR Mechanical Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: FACR Mechanical Go to Quoted Post


What we have so far, which is quite a departure from previous Settings.
VS 85
FFS 105
ATS 115
MTS 165
PTS 140-145
RFS 85
WDS 60
CCS 25
WRA 720-900

Hopefully you will enjoy, and tweak to your own requirements. Best tested using the 2005 BMW M3 at S724 using either my tune or FACR Slarty's at Suzuka. Happy racing!


Well, after a couple of hours of FACR's HLC, with the notoriously difficult to handle Rally Heroes at Dubai Full Reverse of all places, the settings have predictably changed. Too much wheel wrestling and too hard to control in the windy bits. I think I got a bit carried away in bumping the FFS up. I'm now running VS 90, FFS at 100 RFS at 90 and PTS at 135. WRA/DOR I'm still experimenting with, but now I'm down towards the lower end of the scale again (780). I expect the tweaking shall continue ...


I came up with some settings that I think are the best I have found since this all started...but it may not be for all wheels. As I understand Fanatec wheels have some damper built into its FFB and as pointed out by Blue028 that there is a limit of about 35 for the FFB setting to avoid clipping with the Fanatec wheels. ( I was not sure if that was for the wheel settings or the in game settings so I set both to that and started playing with the settings. ( I actually tried every setting posted in this thread over the last 2 days ) what I found was I could never get everything to feel right at the same time. I took a combination of settings and started tweeting. Came up with something really nice but it uses both Fanatec and in game FFB settings so it may feel different on a non Fanatec wheel so please try it out and post any thoughts...

Everything at off or 0 on the Wheel settings but Sen at 720 and FFB at 36 ( ABS---67 and BRF---50 or to your liking as these just affect brakes
I use Sim Steering and have not tried normal yet but Sim feels really good....and all assists off

In game settings
Vib.....62
FFB.....35
ATS.....100
MTS....165
PTS.....104
RFS.....60
WD......6
CSS......2
WRA...720
SL.........50

I really hope it feels as good as mine or at least gives someone a good base to start with.
Please if someone has a Fanatec wheel on Xbox please try these out including the wheel settings and post any thoughts....non Fanatec wheels too but just the in game settings.



Thanks again Dan for this update to your settings. As you know I use the Fanatec P1 wheel on the V2.5 base with XboxOne. I think these settings are about as good as I have found for my system but they still don't cut it. People say that Forza 6's FFB was poor. For arguments sake lets give that FFB a score of 10 out of 10. For my setup with these settings, I'd score the Forza 7 FFB a 2, just a notch better than no FFB at all. That's because the feel of the wheel trying to kick left and right on straights and absolutely no feel for the road in turns has me back to Forza 6 until Turn Ten get's this worked out for Fanatec equipment.

Rank: B-Class Racing License
 1 user liked this post.
#693 Posted : Tuesday, February 12, 2019 7:00:58 AM(UTC)
The motor fade thing (Thrustmaster TX) has got to be car related. Just lapped the Nordschleife for 35 minutes straight with the 2015 Formula Mazda and it remained strong all the way though, I only stopped because I crashed while improving. Still on Mechanical's previous setup, best lap in the 7.20s, stock car, no tweaks. Very fun!
Rank: D-Class Racing License
#694 Posted : Tuesday, February 12, 2019 7:35:19 AM(UTC)
Hey ..... first thanks @ all for the settings and suggestions on this thread :-) .

I have an Fanatec CSR and have testet it with wheelcheck
My Question for FM7 is, Is it possible to reduce the FFB deadzone of my wheel in game ? or do I have to do that at all??
Maybe someone has a nice base setup for the CSR in FM7 on PC !?

Edited by user Tuesday, February 12, 2019 7:48:29 AM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

MY Forza games



+ Digital Versions of Forza 6:Apex , Forza Horizon 3 , Forza Motorsport 7
Rank: D-Class Racing License
 1 user liked this post.
#695 Posted : Tuesday, February 12, 2019 12:47:49 PM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: X3R Monkey Go to Quoted Post
The motor fade thing (Thrustmaster TX) has got to be car related. Just lapped the Nordschleife for 35 minutes straight with the 2015 Formula Mazda and it remained strong all the way though, I only stopped because I crashed while improving. Still on Mechanical's previous setup, best lap in the 7.20s, stock car, no tweaks. Very fun!



Good to hear mate. I probably jumped the gun trying to get settings out after the last update. I'm in the process of dialling back FFB scale and Damper, and I'm getting better results. It's still a work in progress so I'll hold off on any updates until I've fully resolved this in racing and HLC conditions.
Rank: A-Class Racing License
 2 users liked this post.
#696 Posted : Tuesday, February 12, 2019 9:02:16 PM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: WurmSarah667 Go to Quoted Post
Hey ..... first thanks @ all for the settings and suggestions on this thread :-) .

I have an Fanatec CSR and have testet it with wheelcheck
My Question for FM7 is, Is it possible to reduce the FFB deadzone of my wheel in game ? or do I have to do that at all??
Maybe someone has a nice base setup for the CSR in FM7 on PC !?


If you are referring to the ffb linear force test don't believe the results as that test is flawed for ffb torque linearity. Check out this post on racedepartment wheelcheck linear-force tests may be based on seriously flawed assumptions

If you are trying to increase the minimum force, forza does not currently have a setting to do that, however on PC the public version of EmuWheel (that uses normal game FFB) does have a minimum force setting

Or, another option if your wheel does the same as min (I have csr elite) in the startup calibration routine after the wheel rotates to the right, then to the left it does a small jolt movement, this is the wheel testing its own minimum force, if you apply some extra friction on the wheel rim with your hand during this process it will increase the minimum force on the wheel itself

Edited by user Tuesday, February 12, 2019 9:05:36 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Rank: B-Class Racing License
#697 Posted : Wednesday, February 13, 2019 12:35:53 AM(UTC)
Dude.. that testing procedure is legendary. XDD
Rank: D-Class Racing License
#698 Posted : Wednesday, February 13, 2019 2:35:08 AM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: Blue028 Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: WurmSarah667 Go to Quoted Post
Hey ..... first thanks @ all for the settings and suggestions on this thread :-) .

I have an Fanatec CSR and have testet it with wheelcheck
My Question for FM7 is, Is it possible to reduce the FFB deadzone of my wheel in game ? or do I have to do that at all??
Maybe someone has a nice base setup for the CSR in FM7 on PC !?


If you are referring to the ffb linear force test don't believe the results as that test is flawed for ffb torque linearity. Check out this post on racedepartment wheelcheck linear-force tests may be based on seriously flawed assumptions

If you are trying to increase the minimum force, forza does not currently have a setting to do that, however on PC the public version of EmuWheel (that uses normal game FFB) does have a minimum force setting

Or, another option if your wheel does the same as min (I have csr elite) in the startup calibration routine after the wheel rotates to the right, then to the left it does a small jolt movement, this is the wheel testing its own minimum force, if you apply some extra friction on the wheel rim with your hand during this process it will increase the minimum force on the wheel itself


nice answer ... as so often .... thank you very much .
MY Forza games



+ Digital Versions of Forza 6:Apex , Forza Horizon 3 , Forza Motorsport 7
Rank: Racing Permit
#699 Posted : Thursday, February 14, 2019 4:23:25 AM(UTC)
I posted this is about a dozen hours ago in the Technical Issues area, but will re-post in this thread, as I think that a lot more relevant sets of eyeballs will see it here.

I'm not sure if other people have encountered this issue...

My son moved out on the weekend, so I took the opportunity to take his former room and set up my DXRacer wheel stand (and my trusty old Logitech G27) with my second gaming PC on it. However when I tried Forza on it, with the same wheel and settings I use on my main computer, it's like arm wrestling Randy Savage: the FFB is far too strong. I am using the same settings across each computer, and uninstalled and then re-installed the Logitech gaming software/drivers just to make sure that wasn't the issue.

I don't see why the FFB, which has been outstanding since the December update, is so strong and terrible on the second computer.

Any ideas?
Rank: A-Class Racing License
#700 Posted : Thursday, February 14, 2019 5:33:26 AM(UTC)
Sounds like these patches are really fixing things...

PTG Home

Race Team
Tester
Tuner
30 Pages<<2627282930PrevNext

Notification

Icon
Error