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Rank: D-Class Racing License
 3 users liked this post.
#651 Posted : Thursday, February 7, 2019 12:51:31 PM(UTC)
Yesterday was my first time starting up FM7 in a very long time. As soon as it loaded and all the new cars and gift cars started to arrive I once again got that special FM feeling of the old days and the countless hours spent racing. I had no clue there had been an update to the wheel settings and after taking a look all I could say was Wow. My Fanatec V2 CS with V3 CS pedals setup has basically just been collecting dust, so I gave everything a good wipe down and using my old on wheel setting and the new default in game settings I jumped right into my old favorite #9 Honda indy car and went racing. Right off the bat I could feel something different in this car that I had spent countless hours driving, my first impressions were, this thing (wheel) feels heavy, but with more overall feel, maybe more grip? Anyway I couldn't wait to get to the forums and see what you guy's and gal's had come up with. Just going back to the FM forums and seeing names like Dan the Dartman, EpicEvan, Blue028, lalyrn, Cerrax, Dust, FARC and imtoofast4u, just to name a few brought a big smile to my face, thanks guy's. Anyways after experimenting with lots of different setups here's what I'm liking so far. For those of you who have tried my past wheel settings keep in mind I like my setups on the light side with little to no vibration and definitely no wheel shaking at speed.
In-game: Vib=5, FFB=50, ATS=125, MTS=125, PTS=150, RFS=50, WD=0, CSS=50, WRA=540 (down to 360 for indy cars), SL=50.
On-wheel: Sen=540 (per car basis), FF=10-15 (per car), sho=off, lin=off, dea=off, dri=off (2 for drifting), abs=55, br=55.
I'm using Fanatec gear V2 CS base with Xbox 1x hub and a Momo model 30 wheel, V3 pedals with bushing kit, SQ 1.5 shifter, handbrake and Obutto cockpit.
Thanks T10 for updating this old game it feels new again and I'm looking forward to getting back into it.
Rank: D-Class Racing License
#652 Posted : Thursday, February 7, 2019 12:51:59 PM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: Dan the Dartman Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: FACR Mechanical Go to Quoted Post
An hours tweaking and I’m getting back near the feel I had before. Hit 2.13s around Suzuka in the M3 but of course the half hour I spent lapping and tweaking had nothing to do with the close to a second I knocked off my previous best tuning the wheel from the last update it was just the feel ; ) Well now it feels ... faster! Actually it is starting to feel really great. More work and new numbers up over the weekend. Happy racing.


I am looking forward to see what you come up with for settings. There are many people who helped me with the FFB settings but 5 main ones are you and Dave Lacy who is also from FACR, Blue028, Ialyrn, and Dust. Without the info and the research you all put into the FFB settings I would not enjoy it as much as I do.
Thank you very much for all you folks do to make the game better for many!


Thanks mate, appreciated. One thing I found testing last night was that the DOR for some reason has an effect on all other settings. I reduced it from 900 to 270 just to see what would happen, and I could barely turn the wheel let alone get any meaningful feedback - it was undriveable. I'm not sure why this would be the case but it's a word of warning. I'm thinking now I'd better go back to the Wheel Dashboard and change my DOR there as well and see what impact this has.

Findings so far indicate the end result will be much changed. I will get this up as soon as possible as my previous settings after the update now feel very much second rate and the wheel really felt dead in comparison. I've now got it to the point where I have (well, I think) just brilliant responsiveness, nice pneumatic loading, nice weight and centring, very nice road feel (actually this is one part the update really seems to have nailed), good loss of grip indicator (lightening and scrubbing) and ok braking pre-lockup indicator (slight pulsing). But I'm sure I can get it a bit better.

Edited by user Thursday, February 7, 2019 1:03:06 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Rank: A-Class Racing License
 2 users liked this post.
#653 Posted : Thursday, February 7, 2019 1:26:15 PM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: Mark Races Go to Quoted Post


For me this gives a wheel that has a realistic weight and feel, it's easy to turn the wheel through corners and there is enough road feel and weight to tell me what is going on. I know quite a few other Forza players who prefer more wheel weight (higher aligning, mech, pneu & FFB) but I don't like to fight the wheel.

Also I've tried other peoples setups with lower vibration and road feel and yes it is smoother and sometimes a few 10ths faster but for me this lacks the tactility and imperfections of real track driving. I like to be quick but I want the game to feel lifelike too. I fully respect others will disagree and say faster is better, that's fine FFB is about as subjective as it gets.

I haven't tried the latest update on the PC yet but will post the settings up if significantly different.






Much less subjective than many make it out to be. According to an experiment at Stanford University an experiment on building FFB system for a drive by wire wheel in real car. This is what is the most important aspects.

(1) Returnability
(2) On-center feel
(3) Linearity
(4) Effective torque stiffness

This is quite true as to why it was deemed by many that Forza has continuously had poor ffb. Returnability was an issue (self alligning torque). On center feel (deadzone), linearity (an underrated factor by many in the sim world), and effective torque stiffness (the mechanical and pneumatic trail feeling at various speeds). Effective torque stiffness throughout the study is something they work towards being a linear change as well. There is not much that is subjective honestly there right wrong and artificial. Yes, all of it is artificial, but there is nothing along the lines of road feel etc. It all refers to feel of different forces in the car whether it be mechanical trail, pneumatic trail, jacking force etc, but they all get lumped into one category and dampened into steering feel. They also weight them on importance based on various studies such as large radius constant torque type corners, weaving etc. Also, for all those wanting direct drive for the high force it was determined by this study that 8nm is the max force needed for ffb irl cars with drive by wire. None the less its an interesting study.

The study can be found here:
https://ddl.stanford.edu...hesis_Balachrandran.pdf

PTG Home

Race Team
Tester
Tuner
Rank: B-Class Racing License
#654 Posted : Thursday, February 7, 2019 2:54:21 PM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: PTG Baby Cow Go to Quoted Post

(1) Returnability
(2) On-center feel
(3) Linearity
(4) Effective torque stiffness

The study can be found here:
https://ddl.stanford.edu...hesis_Balachrandran.pdf


On page 39, where these bullets are, just below is a flow chart of the driver inputs and relevant forces feeding back into the wheel. Jacking is among them. Interesting that Forza has almost no jacking, even at 7 caster...
Rank: D-Class Racing License
#655 Posted : Thursday, February 7, 2019 3:25:47 PM(UTC)
There seems to be an issue with the fanatec wheel now. Although the settings are decent where I'm at there is still an issue. The drift mode on fanatec seems to be broken on this game. 0 feels like normal which makes it heavy and slow on aligning forces but setting 1 feels like 5 which makes the wheel align a little too fast. Anything over 1 it's unplayable and the wheel bounces left to right full lock. I'll try dirt rally to make sure it isn't just a firmware issue. This is on Xbox

Edit: this happens in the menus also.. kind of startled me when the game loaded up the wheel immediately starts banging left to right

Edited by user Thursday, February 7, 2019 3:31:13 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Rank: B-Class Racing License
#656 Posted : Thursday, February 7, 2019 5:24:37 PM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: Fizzle Nog Go to Quoted Post
There seems to be an issue with the fanatec wheel now. Although the settings are decent where I'm at there is still an issue. The drift mode on fanatec seems to be broken on this game. 0 feels like normal which makes it heavy and slow on aligning forces but setting 1 feels like 5 which makes the wheel align a little too fast. Anything over 1 it's unplayable and the wheel bounces left to right full lock. I'll try dirt rally to make sure it isn't just a firmware issue. This is on Xbox

Edit: this happens in the menus also.. kind of startled me when the game loaded up the wheel immediately starts banging left to right


What does it do at -1 or lower?
Rank: D-Class Racing License
#657 Posted : Thursday, February 7, 2019 6:12:22 PM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: GreatFlea815883 Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: Fizzle Nog Go to Quoted Post
There seems to be an issue with the fanatec wheel now. Although the settings are decent where I'm at there is still an issue. The drift mode on fanatec seems to be broken on this game. 0 feels like normal which makes it heavy and slow on aligning forces but setting 1 feels like 5 which makes the wheel align a little too fast. Anything over 1 it's unplayable and the wheel bounces left to right full lock. I'll try dirt rally to make sure it isn't just a firmware issue. This is on Xbox

Edit: this happens in the menus also.. kind of startled me when the game loaded up the wheel immediately starts banging left to right


What does it do at -1 or lower?


The v2 base with latest firmware is just 0-5 I'm not sure which one has the negative values
Rank: B-Class Racing License
#658 Posted : Thursday, February 7, 2019 6:53:56 PM(UTC)
Oh. I thought I'd seen in a YT video once or twice or read of there being negative DRI settings.
Rank: Driver's License
#659 Posted : Thursday, February 7, 2019 8:17:36 PM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: FACR Mechanical Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: American Boy 07 Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: FACR Mechanical Go to Quoted Post
An hours tweaking and I’m getting back near the feel I had before. Hit 2.13s around Suzuka in the M3 but of course the half hour I spent lapping and tweaking had nothing to do with the close to a second I knocked off my previous best tuning the wheel from the last update it was just the feel ; ) Well now it feels ... faster! Actually it is starting to feel really great. More work and new numbers up over the weekend. Happy racing.



Hey bud I'm looking forward on your final "in game settings" with this new update.
Even tho I'm using a CSW 2.5 I'm finding your settings on your YouTube video and ZR1TOM
to be the best... I like having lots of sensation from the road and feeling the car loosing grip through the wheel.


Keep us posted 👍👍👍


I don't have a YouTube video mate, I think you are confusing me with the Almighty himself, Dave Lacey.



Oh sorry I thought it was you.. I'm talking about the FACR Official videos on YouTube.
https://youtu.be/iyhe6uodZbc
Rank: B-Class Racing License
#660 Posted : Thursday, February 7, 2019 8:39:09 PM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: Blue028 Go to Quoted Post
You don't need an extra setting as you can do this already, if you want no understeer drop off just don't use any pneumatic trail, if you want massive drop off use only pneumatic trail. Adjust the balance of mechanical and pneumatic to get the feel you want, so if someone is saying they have exaggerated loss of FFB with understeer, they should increase mechanical trail and lower pneumatic to keep the overall peak force very close, but past the peak slip angle FFB won't deminish as much.

That doesn't work so well. Lowering pneumatic trail to mechanical trail numbs the response when not slipping. I want the sharp pneumatic trail response when I'm not understeering.. and strong mechanical trail alignment to catch oversteer or stop understeering when they happen.. there isn't a combination that can do that with average forces as consistent as I'd like.

The only workable route is to have high enough FFB response from pneumatic trail that my wheel (and shoulders) feel the burn, then during oversteer or understeer there's enough mechanical trail left for the wheel to re-align, i.e. catching oversteer. I'd rather have moderate, sharp pneumatic alignment force during grip.. and only a touch less total force beyond grip (would be predominately mechanical trail at that point considering pneumatic trail has nothing to send at 5+ degrees of slip for example). I think I explained it twice. Hope it makes sense. L:

Edited by user Thursday, February 7, 2019 8:40:41 PM(UTC)  | Reason: spelling everywhere

Rank: A-Class Racing License
 1 user liked this post.
#661 Posted : Thursday, February 7, 2019 9:14:40 PM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: RoadPuke Go to Quoted Post
Yesterday was my first time starting up FM7 in a very long time. As soon as it loaded and all the new cars and gift cars started to arrive I once again got that special FM feeling of the old days and the countless hours spent racing. I had no clue there had been an update to the wheel settings and after taking a look all I could say was Wow. My Fanatec V2 CS with V3 CS pedals setup has basically just been collecting dust, so I gave everything a good wipe down and using my old on wheel setting and the new default in game settings I jumped right into my old favorite #9 Honda indy car and went racing. Right off the bat I could feel something different in this car that I had spent countless hours driving, my first impressions were, this thing (wheel) feels heavy, but with more overall feel, maybe more grip? Anyway I couldn't wait to get to the forums and see what you guy's and gal's had come up with. Just going back to the FM forums and seeing names like Dan the Dartman, EpicEvan, Blue028, lalyrn, Cerrax, Dust, FARC and imtoofast4u, just to name a few brought a big smile to my face, thanks guy's. Anyways after experimenting with lots of different setups here's what I'm liking so far. For those of you who have tried my past wheel settings keep in mind I like my setups on the light side with little to no vibration and definitely no wheel shaking at speed.
In-game: Vib=5, FFB=50, ATS=125, MTS=125, PTS=150, RFS=50, WD=0, CSS=50, WRA=540 (down to 360 for indy cars), SL=50.
On-wheel: Sen=540 (per car basis), FF=10-15 (per car), sho=off, lin=off, dea=off, dri=off (2 for drifting), abs=55, br=55.
I'm using Fanatec gear V2 CS base with Xbox 1x hub and a Momo model 30 wheel, V3 pedals with bushing kit, SQ 1.5 shifter, handbrake and Obutto cockpit.
Thanks T10 for updating this old game it feels new again and I'm looking forward to getting back into it.


May I be the first then to welcome you back!😃😃😃
Rank: A-Class Racing License
#662 Posted : Thursday, February 7, 2019 9:54:23 PM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: GreatFlea815883 Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: Blue028 Go to Quoted Post
You don't need an extra setting as you can do this already, if you want no understeer drop off just don't use any pneumatic trail, if you want massive drop off use only pneumatic trail. Adjust the balance of mechanical and pneumatic to get the feel you want, so if someone is saying they have exaggerated loss of FFB with understeer, they should increase mechanical trail and lower pneumatic to keep the overall peak force very close, but past the peak slip angle FFB won't deminish as much.

That doesn't work so well. Lowering pneumatic trail to mechanical trail numbs the response when not slipping. I want the sharp pneumatic trail response when I'm not understeering.. and strong mechanical trail alignment to catch oversteer or stop understeering when they happen.. there isn't a combination that can do that with average forces as consistent as I'd like.

The only workable route is to have high enough FFB response from pneumatic trail that my wheel (and shoulders) feel the burn, then during oversteer or understeer there's enough mechanical trail left for the wheel to re-align, i.e. catching oversteer. I'd rather have moderate, sharp pneumatic alignment force during grip.. and only a touch less total force beyond grip (would be predominately mechanical trail at that point considering pneumatic trail has nothing to send at 5+ degrees of slip for example). I think I explained it twice. Hope it makes sense. L:


The build up of force is relatively the same between mechanical and pneumatic trail, if you have both of then combined the build up will be sharp, the balance between the two will determine the amount of force after peak slip.


It is totally possible to drift using only pneumatic trail if your wheel is powerful enough, you just have to avoid giving the front tyres too much slip angle.


Rank: B-Class Racing License
#663 Posted : Thursday, February 7, 2019 10:27:09 PM(UTC)
Maybe I need a new wheel. T500RS belt drive not as sharp as T300RS belt, even G2x gear drive? I used 1080 degrees for street cars, btw. In many games the extra space can show subtle effects that 720 or less won't.

My internet cycle starts on the 15th. I'll reinstall FM7 and try the new update then.

Edit 2: Thrustmaster driver settings play a factor as well. Ialryn is the only one who can tell us how PC and Xbox differ.

Edited by user Thursday, February 7, 2019 10:31:03 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Rank: S-Class Racing License
#664 Posted : Friday, February 8, 2019 2:03:08 AM(UTC)
So I got my first hands on yesterday with my TX. I must say I'm impressed. The mechanical trail is what's really been improved. It's so much smoother & more accurate now. Due to the mechanical trail getting such a lift, things like transitioning between slides, catching drifts, stepping the car out, slight oversteer, locking up the brakes & even just doing burnouts are so much more natural than before. So that to me is the biggest change so far. It's also made a big difference for the wheel in general because it's the real heart of the FFB, so the better the mechanical tail the better the FFB in general. So this is a great start.

Next thing that seemed effected was the damper. Again it just feels smoother, more buttery if that makes sense. I ran 200 damper just for the hell of it (I don't actually run it, this was just for testing) & even then the damper felt relatively fluid for such a high amount. If I had ran that amount before the update, the wheel would have felt like it was grinding gears, it would've made me wince honestly.

There's not been much change to the pneumatic tail & road feel in my first impressions so far, though like everything else in the FFB, it does seem to have been improved simply because there's now less latency, so it feels more precise. I no longer get that slight feeling that a force should've happened a fraction of a second ago. It's amazing what fixing 2 frames of latency does. It all just feels more responsive & a bit sharper.

The centre spring I'm still really indecisive on. I never felt that it gives much benefit in using it & honestly I still don't. It hardly makes a difference, at least in my testing before the update & now in my first impressions. Saying that, a small bit of centre spring does seem to help smooth over some oscillations in the wheel, however saying that I find the damper to do a more effective job at that. Regardless, do not run the centre spring too high. It's very detrimental if you do. Small amounts is fine & is actually beneficial. This is the part of the FFB where I need to do the most testing.

Let's go into some negatives though. There's still no difference in pneumatic trail feel between different tire compounds, or at least from what I could feel last night. Every tire still has that same deformation feel which is a bit frustrating. I'd have liked to see street tires have less drop off effect compared to race tires but eh, c'est la vie. As lalyrn confirmed earlier, the bug where no force feedback is triggered under 13 KMH is still also there, which again, is a shame & very peculiar.

I'll do some more testing tonight when I'm home from work, maybe get some very loose settings for people with a TX as well. We'll see. Either way though this update has once again elevated the Force Feedback & the game.

Rank: S-Class Racing License
#665 Posted : Friday, February 8, 2019 2:14:52 AM(UTC)
The centre spring is situational, its most noticeable when the wheel is returning to centre. Probably felt the difference so much, as my testing with the FFB involved a lot of drifting in both stock cars from the rental system (to make certain they where stock); as well as purpose built drift, and even race tuned cars. I also found it helped with transitions. The first time I tried it, I felt the same as you Evan; and I turned it off. for a good long while. When I tried it again, thats when I noticed the difference it makes. It fits in with the description that T10 have on the Forza Support website for wheel setups in both FM7 and FH4.
Rank: S-Class Racing License
#666 Posted : Friday, February 8, 2019 3:01:22 AM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: Ialyrn Go to Quoted Post
The centre spring is situational, its most noticeable when the wheel is returning to centre. Probably felt the difference so much, as my testing with the FFB involved a lot of drifting in both stock cars from the rental system (to make certain they where stock); as well as purpose built drift, and even race tuned cars. I also found it helped with transitions. The first time I tried it, I felt the same as you Evan; and I turned it off. for a good long while. When I tried it again, thats when I noticed the difference it makes. It fits in with the description that T10 have on the Forza Support website for wheel setups in both FM7 and FH4.

Yeah I was drifting the stock Mercedes SLS yesterday at Suzuka. I couldn't really decide if centre spring helped or not, it was just kind of there if it made sense? It helped slightly with centering the wheel after the drift but it was a very small sinister negligible difference. Still I'll do some testing tonight to see my final verdict.
Rank: Driver's Permit
#667 Posted : Friday, February 8, 2019 7:18:06 AM(UTC)
Hi Racers,
First: I appreciate your Knowledge About Force feedback, your enormous amount of testing and your effort trying to help.
But unfortunately it doesn´t help me.
I tried every Setting you all recommended the last two months. But since Dec Update there is a lot of jerking and shuddering (thats how i describe it - english is not my native language)
in the Wheel i cannot get rid of.
While braking with ABS ON - it gets worse the more the car slows down, is worst right before car stands still.
During cornering it is jerking, even on straights the Wheel is not smooth.

What I found out is that this „jerking“ goes along with mechanical trail – turn it down – no jerking –
With ABS OFF the jerking/juddering is completely gone while braking

I can imagine some benefits of the new FFB – on or near the limit feel is good – very less bad effects and I am Aware of it that small amounts of changing the Settings and the combination (DOR...) of it can have big influence but besides that straight out giving small steering inputs or in long fast slight bends it is absolutely annoying – it was absolutely smooth before the december update.
I tried all the Beta Firmwares from Fanatec 312, 324, 326 … Maybe with the 326 it is slightly "smoother"
I read the Tuners Guide, I am familiar with the specific Fanatec Wheel Settings (Drift, FEI …)…that fanatec wheels are potentially more powerfull ...

So finally my Question: Is it possible that there is a specific Problem with the fanatec wheelbase V2.5 +/- in combination with xbox one x and the new FFB ???
If I am Right most of you Play on PC and most of you use other Brands than fanatec,
Does anybody have "Fanatec-specific" informations…, from the Company... from Turn 10....
I cannot get rid of the idea that it´s a V2.5 issue
I use: XBox OneX, Wheelbase V2.5, P1 Elite Wheel, McLarenGT3 Wheel, my favourite Cars Are Porsches, My Test-Track-Car Combination: Nürburgring GP and Nordschleife with GT3 RS
Please take me serious
Regards

VIB is OFF

Edited by user Friday, February 8, 2019 7:28:31 AM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Rank: A-Class Racing License
 1 user liked this post.
#668 Posted : Friday, February 8, 2019 7:30:06 AM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: Combuse Go to Quoted Post
Hi Racers,
First: I appreciate your Knowledge About Force feedback, your enormous amount of testing and your effort trying to help.
But unfortunately it doesn´t help me.
I tried every Setting you all recommended the last two months. But since Dec Update there is a lot of jerking and shuddering (thats how i describe it - english is not my native language)
in the Wheel i cannot get rid of.
While braking with ABS ON - it gets worse the more the car slows down, is worst right before car stands still.
During cornering it is jerking, even on straights the Wheel is not smooth.

What I found out is that this „jerking“ goes along with mechanical trail – turn it down – no jerking –
With ABS OFF the jerking/juddering is completely gone while braking

I can imagine some benefits of the new FFB – on or near the limit feel is good – very less bad effects and I am Aware of it that small amounts of changing the Settings and the combination (DOR...) of it can have big influence but besides that straight out giving small steering inputs or in long fast slight bends it is absolutely annoying – it was absolutely smooth before the december update.
I tried all the Beta Firmwares from Fanatec 312, 324, 326 … Maybe with the 326 it is slightly "smoother"
I read the Tuners Guide, I am familiar with the specific Fanatec Wheel Settings (Drift, FEI …)…that fanatec wheels are potentially more powerfull ...

So finally my Question: Is it possible that there is a specific Problem with the fanatec wheelbase V2.5 +/- in combination with xbox one x and the new FFB ???
If I am Right most of you Play on PC and most of you use other Brands than fanatec,
Does anybody have "Fanatec-specific" informations…, from the Company... from Turn 10....
I cannot get rid of the idea that it´s a V2.5 issue
I use: XBox OneX, Wheelbase V2.5, P1 Elite Wheel, McLarenGT3 Wheel, my favourite Cars Are Porsches, My Test-Track-Car Combination: Nürburgring GP and Nordschleife with GT3 RS
Please take me serious
Regards








How are we supposed to know where your settings are to help you?
if you have one or more settings out of place causing you these problems how would we know without knowing what your settings are?

Please list all the wheel settings Sen, FFB, Sho, etc that a Fanatec wheel has...also p,ease list what your in game settings are with advanced settings. That will give us a picture of what you have and possibly how to fix. Without this info it is much harder to try to help you.
Most of the settings if over applied can cause these issues and they can do so with one setting or with many and we have no idea what yours are now.


Rank: C-Class Racing License
#669 Posted : Friday, February 8, 2019 11:30:42 AM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: Dan the Dartman Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: Combuse Go to Quoted Post
Hi Racers,
First: I appreciate your Knowledge About Force feedback, your enormous amount of testing and your effort trying to help.
But unfortunately it doesn´t help me.
I tried every Setting you all recommended the last two months. But since Dec Update there is a lot of jerking and shuddering (thats how i describe it - english is not my native language)
in the Wheel i cannot get rid of.
While braking with ABS ON - it gets worse the more the car slows down, is worst right before car stands still.
During cornering it is jerking, even on straights the Wheel is not smooth.

What I found out is that this „jerking“ goes along with mechanical trail – turn it down – no jerking –
With ABS OFF the jerking/juddering is completely gone while braking

I can imagine some benefits of the new FFB – on or near the limit feel is good – very less bad effects and I am Aware of it that small amounts of changing the Settings and the combination (DOR...) of it can have big influence but besides that straight out giving small steering inputs or in long fast slight bends it is absolutely annoying – it was absolutely smooth before the december update.
I tried all the Beta Firmwares from Fanatec 312, 324, 326 … Maybe with the 326 it is slightly "smoother"
I read the Tuners Guide, I am familiar with the specific Fanatec Wheel Settings (Drift, FEI …)…that fanatec wheels are potentially more powerfull ...

So finally my Question: Is it possible that there is a specific Problem with the fanatec wheelbase V2.5 +/- in combination with xbox one x and the new FFB ???
If I am Right most of you Play on PC and most of you use other Brands than fanatec,
Does anybody have "Fanatec-specific" informations…, from the Company... from Turn 10....
I cannot get rid of the idea that it´s a V2.5 issue
I use: XBox OneX, Wheelbase V2.5, P1 Elite Wheel, McLarenGT3 Wheel, my favourite Cars Are Porsches, My Test-Track-Car Combination: Nürburgring GP and Nordschleife with GT3 RS
Please take me serious
Regards


How are we supposed to know where your settings are to help you?
if you have one or more settings out of place causing you these problems how would we know without knowing what your settings are?

Please list all the wheel settings Sen, FFB, Sho, etc that a Fanatec wheel has...also p,ease list what your in game settings are with advanced settings. That will give us a picture of what you have and possibly how to fix. Without this info it is much harder to try to help you.
Most of the settings if over applied can cause these issues and they can do so with one setting or with many and we have no idea what yours are now.


Dan, Combuse and I have the exact same setup and we have exactly the same problems since the Dec 4th update and the Feb 5th update didn't help anything. I'm beginning to believe now that it's the V2.5 Fanatec base that is incompatible with the new FFB system. If you're going down a straight road and your wheel is kicking left and right there is no setting that is going to fix that and believe me I've tried. As I've said before the only solution is to turn the FFB completely off. I didn't pay $500 for that base to essentially turn it into a no FFB wheel. And the fact that once you enter a turn and the FFB goes to zero with absolutely no road feel just adds to the problem. Maybe Forza 6 isn't the best FFB system but it was the best Turn 10 could come up with when it came out. And the fact that it is worlds apart from what me and Combuse are experiencing with Forza 7 says that there is major problem somewhere between our setup and the new FFB. Settings just don't fix it. If it sounds like I've given up trying to work with Forza 7, you'd be right. Thanks for all that have tried to help. For those that keep asking for "what setup are you using" go back through this thread where that was provided. Dan there must be something different between the V2 and the V2.5 base that gives us the problem that you do not experience.
Rank: S-Class Racing License
#670 Posted : Friday, February 8, 2019 11:58:47 AM(UTC)
Are you sure your not just feeling the FFB reacting to the undulations in the track? An effect that is supposed to be there, and will cause the wheel to react as you travel down the track; which is more pronounced the faster you go. And is also stronger, when using a car stiffer suspension setups. Road cars feel softer and smoother, sportier and much more hardcore road cars feel harsher, , race/drift cars feel harsher still.

Lack of road feel was a massive complaint in FM6, and with the original FFB in FM7. Probably one of the biggest complaints in fact. But since the update, the wheel now reacts to the road in 3 ways. Through Mechanical torque, which follows the suspension geometry. through Pneumatic torque, which allows the feelings through the tires. Mainly tire deformation and understeer. and through road feel. Road feel mostly pertains to the kerbs, and things like cobblestones.

Mechanical torque reacts very well to changes on the track surface, especially on a track like Nordschleife. A track that was assumed to be be devoid of any track surface variation prior to the new FFB version, which is now very clear to see it has a ton of character to it. Its probably the track that will cause a reaction to surface changes.

But as Dan said, if people dont post their settings up; we cant provide any sort of help; other then theoretical. Having a list of the on wheel settings, along with in game settings; will help greatly.

Realistically, I would reset the on wheel fanatec settings back to their factory defaults. And then go from there. Find a setting in game that works well for everything else. And if you do not like the effects you are feeling in the area of your complaint. Lower the FFB scale in game, or reduce the FFB on your wheel itself.

On the PC version of FM7 with my T300RS, I use the driver to lower the maximum output of the wheel. I have the "overall strength of all forces" set to 55% atm. Which decreases the volume of the effects the game sends to my wheel, while still allowing me to have really good self aligning and feel.

Without owning a Fanatec wheel myself though, I cant test it. So as said, its just theoretical from me for that device. Ideally, we could do with Blue's advice on this one. Since he has a lot of experience with Fanatec hardware, and uses a Fanatec wheel.

Edited by user Friday, February 8, 2019 12:02:00 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

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#671 Posted : Friday, February 8, 2019 12:59:21 PM(UTC)
Lalyrn,

"Are you sure your not just feeling the FFB reacting to the undulations in the track? An effect that is supposed to be there, and will cause the wheel to react as you travel down the track; which is more pronounced the faster you go. "

Yes I'm sure that I'm NOT feeling FFB reacting to undulations in the track. An "undulation" causes a up and down movement of the wheel/tire/suspension. It doesn't cause the steering wheel to kick right and left. What Combuse and I are experiencing is what he described as the steering wheel twitching left and right. And then the lack of any road feel through a turn.

To try and describe the "twitching" feeling of the wheel in a real world example is difficult because it's so unnatural but it might be like running into a pothole on the right and then on left but even that would not cause the steering wheel to jerk right or left, you would feel a "thud" in the wheel. And I doubt there are potholes in any of the tracks.
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#672 Posted : Friday, February 8, 2019 2:15:22 PM(UTC)
He is talking about oscilations. Can you increase the damping on your wheel?

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#673 Posted : Friday, February 8, 2019 3:13:18 PM(UTC)
I've only had oscillations in other games when driving straight.
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#674 Posted : Friday, February 8, 2019 3:21:53 PM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: GreatFlea815883 Go to Quoted Post
I've only had oscillations in other games when driving straight.


Read that's what he said it is doing.

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#675 Posted : Friday, February 8, 2019 8:39:27 PM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: Combuse Go to Quoted Post

So finally my Question: Is it possible that there is a specific Problem with the fanatec wheelbase V2.5 +/- in combination with xbox one x and the new FFB ???
If I am Right most of you Play on PC and most of you use other Brands than fanatec,
Does anybody have "Fanatec-specific" informations…, from the Company... from Turn 10....


There is some information from T10 and fanatec that states using any fanatec wheel in xbox one mode requires th FF setting to be lowered or it will cause significant clipping. Aaron from T10 recommended that you should start with this setting at 35 (default is 100 normaly)

This is why it is important to list your settings so people can see if you have made this mistake
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