Rank: Racing Permit
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#1 Posted : Tuesday, October 9, 2018 9:54:06 AM(UTC)
Hi

as i always thought, car games should always be released with a predefined settings for each wheels. so when you start your game, in-games settings are already the "best one" for your wheel. and then if would display a message telling you which settings to apply on your wheel itself.

i guess every studios try their games with many different controlers to ensure the game works for the majority, so they are able to find the best settings themself and apply it by default.. but this never happens, exept in some Dirt games :(

so in order to have the same logic, we could create one topic per wheel, and everyone could post their settings for it (ingame settings and wheel settings) so people could try it, and then we could vote for the best, and display this "best setting" on the first post of each topic according to the wheel.

i see many people already sharing their Fanatec CSW 2.5 settings, but the CSL Elite is a bit less powerful so not the same settings to apply, but also less cheaper to buy, so i think many people also have it and might want good settings for it on FH4 !

i don't yet tried it on the game, precisely because i didn't find any settings for it, but if you have one, let us know !
Rank: C-Class Racing License
#2 Posted : Wednesday, October 10, 2018 1:29:09 PM(UTC)
As far as I can tell no settings for the CSL work on PC because the CSL doesn't receive any Force feedback on PC version of game right now. Try it out and let me know if its the same for you.
Rank: B-Class Racing License
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#3 Posted : Wednesday, October 10, 2018 4:18:34 PM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: HIR0PR0TAGON1ST Go to Quoted Post
As far as I can tell no settings for the CSL work on PC because the CSL doesn't receive any Force feedback on PC version of game right now. Try it out and let me know if its the same for you.


Well that’s just incorrect. Mine works perfectly.

My settings:

In game:
Vibration off
FFB 60
FFB Min 50
FFB Und 75
Sensitivity 0

On the wheel:
SEn: 720
FF: 100
SHo: OFF
AbS: 75
BrF: 60
dri: 003
For: 100
SPr: OFF
dPr: OFF
FEI: 100

Edited by user Thursday, October 11, 2018 10:15:38 AM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

PC: i7-8700k @5GHz, 16GB DDR4-3600, RTX 2080 Super Hybrid
Rig: Fanatec DD1, R300/911GT3 wheel, v3 pedals, CS v1.5 shifter; ButtKicker G2
A/V: ROG Strix 49" 32:9 monitor; Trust Tytan 5.1

http://linktr.ee/chojinzo
Rank: Racing Permit
#4 Posted : Thursday, October 11, 2018 5:33:52 PM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: HIR0PR0TAGON1ST Go to Quoted Post
As far as I can tell no settings for the CSL work on PC because the CSL doesn't receive any Force feedback on PC version of game right now. Try it out and let me know if its the same for you.



why would i play on PC when i can play on my One X x)

so on Xbox with CSL Elite, i use these settings found from "Dan the Dartman", who use a Fanatec CSW 2.0. For me, his settings works great even if the CSL is a little bit less powerful than the CSW. my wheel has firmware 336.

"
Wheel settings....(actually the same settings as FM7 on the wheel as only the in game settings change for my set up on FH4)
SENS...540
FF...30
SHO...10
ABS...67
LIN...off
DE...off
DRI...001
BRF...30

In game settings (control settings and press the X button for advanced settings )
Steering axis dead zone...0-100
Steering linearity...50
Acceleration axis dead zone...0-100
Deceleration axis dead zone...0-100
Clutch axis dead zone...15-90
E-brake axis dead zone...10-100
Vibration scale...60
Force feedback scale...50
Center spring scale...81
Wheel damper scale...2
Force feedback under steer...75
Force feedback minimum force...56
Wheel rotation angle...540
"

however, i don't know if it is because Xbox, or not the exact same wheel, but on the wheel, i don't have the "DE" and "BRF" settings. but i have "FEI" that he doesn't seems to have .. seems not an issue because the feeling is really great ! i sometime lower the FF to 25.

i have to say that this is maybe the best feeling i had in a Forza with a wheel since the CSR on Forza Motorsport 4. i will try yours Chojinzo and tell you if i like it ;)

Edited by user Thursday, October 11, 2018 5:38:52 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Rank: C-Class Racing License
#5 Posted : Thursday, October 11, 2018 6:17:27 PM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: Chojinzo Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: HIR0PR0TAGON1ST Go to Quoted Post
As far as I can tell no settings for the CSL work on PC because the CSL doesn't receive any Force feedback on PC version of game right now. Try it out and let me know if its the same for you.


Well that’s just incorrect. Mine works perfectly.

My settings:

In game:
Vibration off
FFB 60
FFB Min 50
FFB Und 75
Sensitivity 0

On the wheel:
SEn: 720
FF: 100
SHo: OFF
AbS: 75
BrF: 60
dri: 003
For: 100
SPr: OFF
dPr: OFF
FEI: 100


What steering wheel are you using and what firmwares are you using?

When you use default do you get no FFB? Or do you always get ffb or only with those settings.
Rank: B-Class Racing License
 1 user liked this post.
#6 Posted : Friday, October 12, 2018 1:56:00 AM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: HIR0PR0TAGON1ST Go to Quoted Post

What steering wheel are you using and what firmwares are you using?

When you use default do you get no FFB? Or do you always get ffb or only with those settings.


BMW M3 GT2 rim, v336 firmware. I use the Fanatec CSL Elite Xbox preset. I haven’t tried changing to any of the customisable sets.
PC: i7-8700k @5GHz, 16GB DDR4-3600, RTX 2080 Super Hybrid
Rig: Fanatec DD1, R300/911GT3 wheel, v3 pedals, CS v1.5 shifter; ButtKicker G2
A/V: ROG Strix 49" 32:9 monitor; Trust Tytan 5.1

http://linktr.ee/chojinzo
Rank: C-Class Racing License
#7 Posted : Friday, October 12, 2018 3:27:00 PM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: Chojinzo Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: HIR0PR0TAGON1ST Go to Quoted Post

What steering wheel are you using and what firmwares are you using?

When you use default do you get no FFB? Or do you always get ffb or only with those settings.


BMW M3 GT2 rim, v336 firmware. I use the Fanatec CSL Elite Xbox preset. I haven’t tried changing to any of the customisable sets.


Ahah! With the Goliath patch the wheel finally started working!

Are you using Simulation steering or Regular?
Rank: B-Class Racing License
#8 Posted : Friday, October 12, 2018 8:02:16 PM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: HIR0PR0TAGON1ST Go to Quoted Post
Ahah! With the Goliath patch the wheel finally started working!

Are you using Simulation steering or Regular?


Regular. All other assists off, but I’ve never got on with sim steering. Always felt like it makes it more difficult for the sake of it, rather than being more realistic.

PC: i7-8700k @5GHz, 16GB DDR4-3600, RTX 2080 Super Hybrid
Rig: Fanatec DD1, R300/911GT3 wheel, v3 pedals, CS v1.5 shifter; ButtKicker G2
A/V: ROG Strix 49" 32:9 monitor; Trust Tytan 5.1

http://linktr.ee/chojinzo
Rank: Driver's Permit
#9 Posted : Wednesday, October 17, 2018 6:15:20 AM(UTC)
I have the Fanatec CSL Elite wheel for PC (Xbox version). I am playing using PC, and tried these settings last night. They feel fine on the tarmac, but in dirt races it feels unplayable. I spin out in every corner. It's very disheartening after researching and trying settings for several hours last night to still not be able to lap a dirt track without spinning out.

That being said, I'm looking for PC Settings for the Fanatec CSL Elite. I don't know if there was a patch recently and these settings listed are still good? Does anyone use Fanatec CSL Elite and have settings that they can drive dirt AND tarmac with no issues? PC settings only please!

Please get back to me I'm dying to play this game!
Rank: Racing Permit
#10 Posted : Tuesday, December 10, 2019 9:22:26 AM(UTC)
hi !

i updated my csl elite wheel, and every settings has been reset on the wheel itself :(

i tried to set it approximately the same as before, but it feels way more loose on the game than before, it doesnt react, and the DRI settings makes it crazy, as soon as i activate it, when i turn the wheel even when parked, it goes alone in the direction i turned it, to the maximum rotation very fast...

anyone has a good setting Ingame and on the wheel itself updated and satisfying ?
Rank: Driver's Permit
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#11 Posted : Friday, December 13, 2019 10:09:54 AM(UTC)
following...I had not played on my XB1 for some time...Recently signed up for gamepass and downloaded FH4. Started playing on controller because my wheel (CLS Elite, pedals inverted with load cell kit on brake) was not being picked up by the game.
Well, finally figured out that I have to start the XB using the wheel...and even then, it is not fully featured...for instance, I cannot figure out how to get the clutch to work in FH4, but switching to FM6 and 7, everything works properly. I cannot remap buttons to allow me to look around, etc.
I am thinking that I need to spend more time on trying to integrate a controller after getting into the game with the wheel to see if I can map more buttons using both the wheel and controller...etc

Anyway, as part of the process of getting the wheel to function in FH4, I had to update the wheel firmware to 629, and while I am able to drive on pavement with the defaults, and even the dirt if I do not drift, once the car starts to drift at all, it is almost impossible to save.
So, I am following this as I am NOT very good with wheel settings themselves. and like others have mentioned, I see videos of folks having a great time drifting and driving, that I feel left out.
Being a family man means that I do not get to spend endless hours tuning and finding the right settings to really enjoy the game when I pick it up, but even if I did have the time, I seriously doubt that I would be able to find the right combination of settings in game and on wheel to make a difference.

Next question. Since I have gamepass, does anyone know if I can run this game on my PC? My PC sits right next to my XB, and I am wondering if perhaps running on the PC means that my wheel will be picked up properly, vs the XB1.

Finally, with regards to starting up the XB1 using the wheel. When the screen loads the McLaren rolling down the country lane, and you hit X in order to start playing, my wheel violently rips all the way to the right and stays pegged there. The only way to get control back is to power down the wheel, and restart it. After that, it works fine. This happens EVERY TIME that I start the game up using the wheel...and I suspect that this might be part of the issues that I am seeing mentioned above. Anyone else experience this. Any thoughts?
Rank: Racing Permit
#12 Posted : Saturday, December 14, 2019 12:28:41 AM(UTC)
Yeah, my CSL elite V1.1 rips to the right when starting game with the wheel on Xbox one x. Just curious when you guys start your csl elite wheel does it sometimes just start calibrating left and right full force until you turn the power off? Happens like once a week if I’m not careful
Rank: A-Class Racing License
 1 user liked this post.
#13 Posted : Friday, December 27, 2019 10:19:09 AM(UTC)
After owning the old CSR many moons ago with endless hours tweaking on 360 I haven't played much FM7 vs Horizon on the couch with a controller(also had a couple kids in the interim). After it became official the 'bone capable peripherals would be compatible on the next gen, I broke down and bought a CSW 2.5 setup, with CSL LC pedal set. Over the holidays I have probably 15 hours lapping the same car around the same track trying to get the settings 'right', let alone the same hours by pulling random cars on random tracks and just about giving up. I still think the CSR with FM4 was better FFB when tweaked right. I have taken all kinds of big swings with every setting and it all definitely comes down to the mechanical/pneumatic trail settings, and even they are far too car-specific.

It is impossible to get it right. Also, I spent most of my time running IMSA turbo cars, which have razor steering and high downforce similar to modern GT2/3 cars, and loads of turbo lag with huge power peaks. It gives you a true test of grip feeling and transitions from stuck like glue to oversteering madness under full boost. Very dynamic cars. They are actually quite well modeled in FM7. I will hotlap with all assists off but will race them with TC on, it's just too much to monitor with other cars to battle. I also spent most of my time in cars with no upgrades or tuning.

I can get most race cars to feel properly weighted with enough nuance loss of tire grip to be able to be 'one' with the car and feel in command of every wiggle and let it slide predictably at the edge. It requires fairly high levels of both mech/pneumatic trail. You have this TINY window of where the tire modeling is perceptible for loss of grip while driving under grip feels weighted and sticky, with progressive smooth response that gives you confidence to give it wheel on a sharp turn. As soon as the tire grip setting becomes too high, you get that endless feeling of understeer that starts to kick in way too early. When the tire modeling is to prominent, it just never feels like you can 'throw' the car into a turn in any realistic way. I can get hot laps up with finesse, but all that goes out the window when banging doors with opponents. Higher mechanical modeling gives you a proper wheel, but JUST when you get enough of it to feel like an actual car with actual rubber tires attached to it, there is no transition-the tires just snap over/under steer with about 2 degrees of rotation available for the loss of grip to be detected.

So I have these settings that are quite satisfying with any of the true race cars, especially imsa and GT racers. Of course, any road car with any tire other then race rubber has major issues with these settings, especially any modern powerful GT road car, like of the AMG/Jag/Ferrari GT's/Bentley, etc. I just don't think there is remotely any setting that works as a baseline for the entire suite of vehicles. Ironically, what gives a dynamic range for a race car, that after a few laps when you finally become 'one' with the car-you get the confidence to steer past 90 degrees, and take a chance on the curbs for a pass, etc, like-an actual race car. Suddenly you get into an AMG coupe, and even with full rotational range, you cant get past 11-1 without spinning out, where it should be the other way around.

It is WAY too frustrating getting this right. Hopefully they go with a model featuring tire deformation and grip as the primary driving force, and a more dynamic suspension model with proper modeling of body roll and weight transfer on the next FM model. This really should be a simple process. If it were modeled correctly one setting for FFB level, one for steering ratio, and a few settings for 'road noise' preferences should be all there is to setting FFB-Then it would be more about the CAR and not the endless wheel settings. Not to mention how much 'damping' settings can wreck havoc with all the other settings. Whatever I had back in FM4 worked for every car, only having to change the rotational ratio and ffb level after two test laps and it was GTG from there. I had no issues running a focus in C class with FWD and jumping into a Ford GT in GT3 racing and make a custom 40 lap race at Laguna Seca with a couple clicks of settings, and the only ting I worried about was sector times.

Assetto Corsa has this model of tires plus a car that actually has dynamic suspension and body roll modeled much better(and far simpler to set up), just watch the models 'work' in replays. What it lacks sensation of SPEED, making it difficult in it's own way. But bringing that car modeling into FM's world of graphics presentation would be the truly 'great' driving game. Plus being able to model tuning setups for each car on each track is genius. In FM, it's easier just to own 5 versions of a car...

You can try these with a 'Silhouette' or IMSA racer on Mugello, one of the better test tracks for just about every turning scenario, flirting with curbs, etc.

**The FIRST thing anyone should do when setting FFB for a wheel is turn the TIRE VOLUME down to about 20% in the audio menu, this is WAY too distracting and has no dynamic aspect, it's just noise all the time, and will mess with your perception of 'grip' leaving that squealing mess too prominent in your sensory range.

CSW 2.5/CSL Loadcell pedals. Wheel settings are a lot of personal preference.

I have all main wheel settings to AUTO except braking range(50), abs(99) for MY particular pedals, with drift to -3(seems more natural/less intrusive then 'off' or -5). I've played around with SHOck settings from 50-100 to OFF without much change. This setting can really beat you up if you use a lot of road feel amplifier or spring settings in game.

In game all ranges default/0-100 except brake takeup(again all personal preference each pedal and foot is different). For a race car, I have the individual cars' steering reduced to around 560-630ish degrees of rotation. Master setting is 900 as for any road car(so far)

Vibration Scale: 22 (I find a little helps, especially with the buttkicker...)
FFB Scale: 108
Aligning Torque 99
Mechanical Trail 108
Pneumatic Trail 122
Road Feel 30
Load Sensitivity 64
Wheel Damper 15(outright evil setting to mess with)
Center Spring 0
Dynamic Damper Behavior 30 (another voodoo setting)
Wheel Rotation Angle 900 (set in individual car menu to about 65-70% for a full-body race car).
Steering linearity 50 (shouldn't even be a setting).

In a fast road car, these settings seem to suck... Not sure yet what can form a 'bridge' between street/race cars where it's just one slider to adjust. For me, with the race cars I can detect tire wear and have enough confidence to 4 wheel slide on certain exits to float into a passing position, lap after lap. However, I can't get around the track ONCE clean with an AMG GT coupe.

I find the biggest problem with FM is that the cars really do not have any actual suspension dynamic at all, they are just trying to work with some tire/grip modeling and a relatively crude suspension model that takes all the suspension and weight settings and simply plays them against the tire model. This game is all about trying to get 700+ cars in it, and it shows when you watch (beautiful) replays and the tires just bang up and down a little bit in a dark grey empty block behind the tires. Kinda like when a D class MG gets glowing brakes like an X class FXX does...

The problem is wheels are becoming so much more sophisticated that adding 20+ FFB settings to make your wheel 'work' with the brick going around the track is making it that much more confusing. With the earlier wheels and the 360's limitations, this could be tricked into a 'happy place' much more easily. It all ends up being much more 'math' to overcome then say AC's model of having a functioning virtual automobile first and foremost just works better. Although it's hard to drive when you can't really tell where you are at what speed in relation to the track and the turn's apex and how fast you are going. FM I know my marks and how much grip I 'should' have going for them but then it's a whole lot of 'what the hell just happened?!'

Edited by user Friday, December 27, 2019 10:42:47 AM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Rank: Driver's Permit
#14 Posted : Friday, November 13, 2020 10:37:13 AM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: Tripp1112 Go to Quoted Post
following...I had not played on my XB1 for some time...Recently signed up for gamepass and downloaded FH4. Started playing on controller because my wheel (CLS Elite, pedals inverted with load cell kit on brake) was not being picked up by the game.
Well, finally figured out that I have to start the XB using the wheel...and even then, it is not fully featured...for instance, I cannot figure out how to get the clutch to work in FH4, but switching to FM6 and 7, everything works properly. I cannot remap buttons to allow me to look around, etc.
I am thinking that I need to spend more time on trying to integrate a controller after getting into the game with the wheel to see if I can map more buttons using both the wheel and controller...etc

Anyway, as part of the process of getting the wheel to function in FH4, I had to update the wheel firmware to 629, and while I am able to drive on pavement with the defaults, and even the dirt if I do not drift, once the car starts to drift at all, it is almost impossible to save.
So, I am following this as I am NOT very good with wheel settings themselves. and like others have mentioned, I see videos of folks having a great time drifting and driving, that I feel left out.
Being a family man means that I do not get to spend endless hours tuning and finding the right settings to really enjoy the game when I pick it up, but even if I did have the time, I seriously doubt that I would be able to find the right combination of settings in game and on wheel to make a difference.

Next question. Since I have gamepass, does anyone know if I can run this game on my PC? My PC sits right next to my XB, and I am wondering if perhaps running on the PC means that my wheel will be picked up properly, vs the XB1.

Finally, with regards to starting up the XB1 using the wheel. When the screen loads the McLaren rolling down the country lane, and you hit X in order to start playing, my wheel violently rips all the way to the right and stays pegged there. The only way to get control back is to power down the wheel, and restart it. After that, it works fine. This happens EVERY TIME that I start the game up using the wheel...and I suspect that this might be part of the issues that I am seeing mentioned above. Anyone else experience this. Any thoughts?



Hello,
I found your post about Fanatec CSL Elite on XB1.
I read it and I have just the same problems.
In particular the one that scares me most is the violent turn of the wheel when entering Forza Hor 4.

Did anybody find the reason for that?

I just received the wheel base new from Fanatec, update with latest drivers.
Any suggestion could be helpful.

Thank you

Guidus
Rank: Driver's Permit
#15 Posted : Tuesday, November 17, 2020 1:27:50 AM(UTC)
I had the same issue with the wheel going full force to the right whenever starting Horizon 4. I figured out not to start the game with the wheel. Leave the wheel powered off and use the controller to get past the McLaren seasons screen. Once you get to the "welcome back" screen turn off the controller and turn on the wheel. Sign in with the wheel. The wheel violently jerking in one direction only ever happens if you use the wheel to load the game.

Edited by user Tuesday, November 17, 2020 1:29:26 AM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

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