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See above, set sensitivity to 50 and change other settings from there to suit - do NOT touch sensitivity from 50 - it seems to be pretty broken, instead of applying a flat multiplier to the axis it gives a step change to either above 50% and not below, or vice versa depending on the settings. It makes the steering incredibly inconsistant especially if you're trying to catch a slide.

Going from 100 or 0 to 50 makes drifting about 10x easier.

Braking deadzone is still broken, i cant get more than 20-30% brake whatever brake deadzones i use. And no, abs wont help me with that. Game is still broken with a g920. Its not a question of settings, it needs a fix.

Yeah, even with the upper dead zone to full I need to press hard against the bumper to even get up towards 100%
For now I'm just building cars with 120-130% brake power to compensate

The stupid thing is the throttle is the other way around - the deadzones are massive so you're only actually using about 2/3rds of it's travel at best - the clutch pedal has better/longer mapping!

Read this

THIS IS CRITICAL: Before you play Forza Horizon 4, make sure you have the latest drivers and firmware for your wheel. Your wheel may work great with games that came out 1 or 2 years ago, even Forza games - that doesn't mean it'll work with a new game. This is not limited to PC users: If you are playing on Xbox, you should also make sure your drivers and firmware are up to date by connecting your wheel to a PC or laptop and downloading the latest drivers and firmware for your wheel from the manufacturer’s website.

Logitech

For Logitech users, especially G920 and G29, you have to install the Logitech Software from the website; this is quite important, if you don’t install it, the G920 is picked up as a different vendor product identifier (VIDPID) and its functionality in the game is compromised, both for FFB and for buttons/switches.

Logitech DriveForce GT

Logitech DriveForce Pro

Logitech G25

Logitech G27

Logitech G29

Logitech G920

Logitech MOMO Force Feedback Racing Whee

Ive had the latest firmware installed the whole time, problem is still there. The deadzones need a patch, thats it. And for the love of god i hope they fix the clutch crunch (probably a deadzone issue as well)..

Also got a response from my ticket today. This is what they said-

“I just wanted to give you an update and let you know that this is a known issue and we are currently investigating. I am marking this ticket as closed and we will post an update to the support pages and forums once this matter is resolved.”

Guess we’ll see what happens.

Found these questions and answers on the Forza support page. Thought it might help others find the appropriate settings.
Forza Support: FFB FAQ

Q: Why is my car too understeery, or too oversteery with my wheel? Is this an FFB problem?

A: Many players incorrectly assume that FFB settings make the car understeer or oversteer more. This is not possible. Oversteer and understeer happen to the car at physics level and can be tuned by the player through the car’s tuning setup, not through the FFB. FFB is what you feel through your steering wheel from those physics effects. FFB helps you feel what is going on, it does not affect the car’s behavior. In short, is your car too oversteery when you lift the throttle? Raise the differential deceleration; is your car too oversteery at apex and exit of corner? Stiffen your front spring or antiroll bar or both. And so on…

If you have too much oversteer or understeer, change the setup of your car (spring, anti-roll bars, differential accel/decel, camber front/rear, toe, front/rear damper) to fix the issue and make the car drive as you like. You cannot tune a car by tuning FFB. FFB only helps you to feel understeer, oversteer and in general what is going on with the car, but it does not change the way the car drives from a physics point of view. You will find the car easier to drive with FFB tuning that suits your driving style best, but the car effectively is the same.

Q: What if I don’t want any FFB tricks like dampers and springs, just raw physics?

A: If your goal is as close to raw physics force as possible, try this:

Setting the damper and spring to 0 removes most of the tricks. Reduce rumble until you can barely just feel it. Reducing Force Feedback Understeer will effectively make you feel the understeer more, because it removes the mechanical trail effect, so you solely feel the pneumatic trail. If you run understeer to max you will feel less understeer (FFB drops when exceeds the peak), effectively it increases the mechanical trail effect, so post peak the force remains higher. Try leaving FFB minimum at the default setting. This will, roughly, give you pneumatic in raw. FFB Minimum alters the ramp-up of pneumatic trail (somewhat counterintuitively). Turning it down all the way is almost like having a flat tire; high forces at low lateral loads.

Found this on Forza Support page at very bottom.

Q: What FFB improvements are you working on?

A: Playground is working on adding more range for tuning, together with better FFB pre-sets on Logitech G920 and G29 (reducing damper for these wheels specifically), in addition to addressing known wheel issues as listed on the support site, and responding to valuable feedback from the community.

Canned response I think, I got the same about a bug in the tuning screen - just after an email recommending I check the Forza 4 wheel guide.

For a bug in the tuning screen.
Really?

Well guys n gals I gotta say, coming here was a bit if relief for me. I have not for the life of me been able to race well and I thought it was just me.

I literally just bought the g920 and playseat challenge because of this game and was starting to feel sad since I cannot seem to drive without spinning out.

I just played my first adventure and got totally WOOPED and took to the web as a last resort before saying screw this game.

Here's to hoping a good fix comes soon...as a potential new racing game enthusiast this was pretty disheartening.

So i got a reply on my ticket from Nitro Glitter. First they told me to update my drivers and firmware which i already did. Then she told me to read the Wheel Users guide here:

https://support.forzamot...55348-Wheel-User-s-Guide

I REALLY ADVISE you guys do the same, it does explain ALOT. But the TLDR version is that the wheels settings does not affect the handling of the cars ingame, only the way it feels. It basically says that you have to tune your car to make it drive different, for example if you don't want it to oversteer on an apex

" In short, is your car too oversteery when you lift the throttle? Raise the differential deceleration; is your car too oversteery at apex and exit of corner? Stiffen your front spring or antiroll bar or both. And so on…"

it also says:

"Playground is working on adding more range for tuning, together with better FFB pre-sets on Logitech G920 and G29 (reducing damper for these wheels specifically), in addition to addressing known wheel issues as listed on the support site, and responding to valuable feedback from the community."

But this basically means i have to tune every car that spins out, oversteers etc. which was never needed in FH2 & 3 or FM7 or any other racing game i've played just to be able to drive it.

From the various settings suggested by other users on the Forza forums these are the ones i've found work the best right now:

steering axis deadzone inside: 10

steering axis deadzone outside: 20

steering linearity: 52

vibration scale: 25

FF scale: 25

Center spring scale: 100

Wheel damper scale: 100

FF understeer: 50

FF minimum force: 50

Wheel rotation angle: 540

everything else is on default

These i've found help a bit, but i still spin out in some cars.

Seriously, the wheel is the controll-input. Ie. If the wheel is twitchy that will translate to the car. Even if you tune an A class car for grip and cornering it will at some point, at speed lose grip (so far all good, thats why we play the game) but here we find the problem, its impossible to countersteer or correct, even tiny slips that should be super easy to correct end you up in the bush. Which takes us to the second counter point; the deadzones for brakes and clutch are ******. That we know, there is no change, whatever setting. If these both deadzones are so bugged that they are nonexistent, why should we consider the other sliders to be working?

Hey, first time poster, long time observer! I just wanted to give my thoughts (for what its worth).

I've had my G920 since the start of last year & overall with Forza Horizons 3 & 7 its been a dream to play with, yes it took its time to get there with updates but I've loved the driving experience.

I was hoping Horizons 4 would just build on what 7 & 3 had already created, but they seem to have started again in some aspects? and I find myself having to revert back to the old "tricks"
you need to use to maintain control (i.e breaking when coming out of corners to stop spinning, slowing down more than needed to get the car straight before accelerating, again to stop spin outs)

Its such a shame because Horizons 4 is a stunning game that deserves to have these issues addressed.

I can still win races with no assists, manual H shifter, on simulation and drivatars on Pro but I dont trust the car to react naturally and I'm rewinding waaaay more than I want to.

Also is it just me or should wheel layout "Default 2" have a rewind button on it?, I cant stand not being able to use the paddles to look left and right!!!

Anyway, big thanks to anyone on here who has been taking these issues up with Playground games & getting the updates addressed!

Cheers.

i just wrote her the same thing :) like really, i have to sit and fiddle around with tuning because this games wheel support is shot unto the ground?! there is no doubt that the games wheel physics, handling or input is screwed. I've given up on playing it with a wheel at this point. Its a fun game on a controller but its just such a bummer that i now have a wheel just standing there, when i should have been racing and having fun with it.



I could not help but smile a but when i read this. Because it was exactly the same thing for me, got a G920 and a wheel stand pro for this. only to be so disappointed. You can play Dirt 4 or Dirt rally until they fix this, its fun and you can actually control your car in those games.

It's ridiculous, if they *actually tried the wheel* instead of assuming everyone is setting things up incorrectly, they'd realise that:

a) despite thier nice lengthy explanation on steering sensitivity, what it should do versus what it's actually doing is completely different. It's broken. It only effects the inner ~50% of your wheel movement, steer anything more than that and you get a sudden step change in steering speed and FFB unless you leave it at 50.
b) the deadzones settings don't appear to work properly in most cases - setting the steering outer to 20 gives much smoother steering but the brake outer deadzone seems to make no difference and the accelerator deadzones seem to give you only 2/3rds of the travel working no matter what you set them to.
c) The throttle mapping means that 25% throttle doesn't hold a constant power output - if the engine torque curve jumps from a turbo/peaky engine, the output will jump even if you're still only holding 25% throttle.

Surely if its the car tune it wouldnt make any difference if u were using a controller or wheel? I can rewind a 100x and not be able to correct a corner, with the wheel but 1st attempt with controller and i'm ken block.....

Is there a way we can track how/when this will happen? I want to link a almighty huge alarm clock to it?

I gave up on the brake deadzone a long time ago and have bound the brake to my clutch pedal

How was this done?

I have played for about 4 hours now with the G920 and default settings, and I can only say that FH4 is perfectly playable. Yes, you spin out of control pretty easily with powerful cars on slippy surfaces, but that's a feature and not a bug I suppose. The handling is slightly different from FH3, but I can't put my finger on what it is. There is less feedback when driving straight on sealed surfaces. I am able to win races with "expert" drivatars which is more or less the way it was in FH3 for me also. I find "pro" to be a bit too challenging.. My point is that for those of you experiencing an unplayable game there must be some issue with either setup or firmware or whatever. I have played the dirt series as well and I think I can safely say that the setup I currently have works just fine.

Go to you Controls => Layout and change from Logitech G920 to Custom Wheel Profile 1


I configured every button the same as the default Logitech G920 setting apart from the brake which when asked I selected the left clutch peddle

Just to finish I configured my brake peddle as the clutch which I don't now use


Now I brake with the clutch peddle (obviously your shifting has to be set to automatic) at least now reverse is accessible

On xbox or pc? So your brake deadzone sliders work?

On Xbox. The braking may be improved by adjusting the deadzones, I haven't tried that. In FH3 I remember I adjusted the braking deadzone outside so it got more responsive, I had to really step on it to get any real effect.

You should leave the inside deceleration deadzone with the default setting and try to increase the outside deadzone to get more responsive braking. That does not work for you?

I havent tried after last patch, but the desdzones have been broken, the sliders wont affect the deadzones, they are useless.
This seem to be the case for everyone on g920 and many (if not all) on tx/ tmx. If your deadzones work your a first :) (that ive seen)

G29 user here. Having the same issues, keep spinning out very easily. Driving with keyboard is fine so its definitely the wheel. Have tried changing the recommended settings spent hours experimenting with different sliders.

Nothing seems to work so I gave up and will wait for a patch. My wheel works great on project cars 2,