Forums

Hi everyone
Just wondering if anyone has been able to source out good steering wheel settings after the update that happened. as from the update, i have been using to default settings, with like 60 ffb and 35 force feed back under steer scale. However, with sim steering, it feels to jerky with super cars or anything above S1 as the snap steering is way to much, if any one has figured some stuff out, it would really help as im looking to be able to drift but still be able to control the car like i would in real life. im on xbox one btw and using a thrustmaster tmx

Hi,

Does anyone have suggestions for the setting for a CSR Wheel on FH4?
I fell like the car is undrivable when doing an offroad race. When taking a turn it just spins out of control with no way to correct it.

Thanks!

I have the TX servo base as my wheel but I think the settings I use are valid for any feedback wheel.

set the center spring & damper scale to 0.

your wheel probably has its own center spring & damper scale settings. Set these to 0 as well. you'll likely have to connect it to your PC & download a program from their website.

you could experiment with the other settings if you want but I have everything else set to default. the most important thing is getting rid of center spring & damper scales.

your rotation angle should depend on what car you're driving. I tend to use these values.

900: normal road cars
720: performance sports cars to supercars & hypercars
540: racecars & rally cars
450: cars with F1 style steering wheels like the Apollo & vulcan

Thanks! That helped a lot!

center spring & damper seem to dull the FFB & make it feel incredibly vague. This makes offroad races really bad because you have to correct your steering constantly. Also remember to change your rotation angle when appropriate. I've noticed that when I drive a rally car like the Audi quattro s1 with 900 degrees of rotation I can't countersteer enough to correct it when it starts to spin. I can correct it easily on 540 degrees.

I spent weeks re-watching YouTube videos from people posting their (usually Logitech based) wheel settings, I use a Thrustmaster TMX. Found mostly people who like drifting with a wheel in 3rd person, so those settings weren't working for me very well, finally got something I liked and wanted to pass them along to anyone else who likes doing cockpit/dash/hood cam driving as a starting point for your own tweaking. Important to note I'm using a Thrustmaster TMX (2 pedals).

How I chose the settings:
I picked a lower HP rear wheel drive car for this (The Subaru RWD F86, or is that the Toyota, whatever.....*that one*) and tweaked. Then when that felt right I moved up to the Kia Stinger to see if the weight felt right on a heavier (but still modern) RWD car, then up to another car, etc. Goal was to find a wheel setting that worked for all cars, that let me feel their 'differences' without having to constantly tweak settings. When you can almost "not die" taking a turn in an 80's Porsche at speed, I knew I was close :)

One item worth noting before I go on: I don't like 900 degree steering in games. Its a game, not real life. I set my wheel rotation to about 480 or so degreesin order to get what I feel is the appropriate amount of wheel-turn to fight fishtailing and possibly recover if I push a corner too hard. On the xbox with my TMX I can choose from 270 to 900 degrees of rotation I think, and for me 400-500 is about right for this game, for this wheel, for me. Ok, that out of the way....

SETTINGS are for NORMAL steering, not Simulation:

Steering Linearity = 53
Something about this setting tightens up the weight of my wheel near the center line. If I leave it at 50 it feels like I have a slightly larger dead-zone.

Force Feedback Scale = 55
I consider 40 to 60 as the range for me, I call this the "how much power steering do you expect in your cars to have" setting.

Center Spring: 5
Most people suggest putting this to zero, I imagine this varies a lot between wheel brands as this setting, I believe is independent of FF trying to re-center your wheel through inertia of the car.

Dampening: 0
I call this the Backlash Setting. Anything greater than 0 for me makes spins about 1000% harder to correct/compensate for, or so I've found. This I leave at zero.

Force Feedback Understeer: 50.
I tried this at 80, I've tried this at 20....45 to 50 just feels about right for me.

Minimum Force Feedback: 35

Steering Sensitivity/Degrees of Rotation: 480
As stated above, I keep it in this range of 400's to low 500's.......I want snappy steering with some play, I don't want to have to go hand-over-hand twice to recover a spin, because its a game, and you won't recover that spin. I don't want the cars to drive like a simulation IRL....I want them to be game-focused approximations of real life, which I believe is what the physics in games like this and Motorsports really try to provide. Your mileage may vary.


Just throwing this out there in case anyone else was using a TMX and was only finding drifting settings on UToob lately.....

Dude I'm a TMX user who has been having the same trouble as you. So I bought Asseto Corsa for Xbox One drove a car that is also in Forza Horizon and used the data from that to set my wheel.. The settings are

Normal Steering
Vibration off
ForceFeedback 45
CenterSpring 0
Damper 0
Understeer 50
maximun force 100
degree of rotation 450 ( I find 450 is better for online racing since your competing against controllers and use 900 for cruising)
(For offroad and old muscle cars set steering outside deadzone to 90 for quicker response)

Also most tunes are based on controller users i have a few tunes i took from Assetto Corsa and Motorsport 7 experimenting. SO LEARN TO TUNE YOURSELF!!
USUALLY A GOOD BUILD MEANS VERY LITTLE TUNING!!!
MY xbox gamertag is NoClutch54 would love to build a club and community for Horizon wheel users

"Also i use very little assist and drive in cockpit view and the drift camera can be used so your field view turns when cornering"

Edited by user Thursday, April 2, 2020 11:02:33 AM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Yep, because our TMX's have that ability to change rotation on the fly, I will sometimes mess around with holding the mode button down and using L/R on the dpad or shifters just to see if I want it more relaxed or more 270-degrees-tight.......I can't win races using a wheel, however, especially in faster classes against Driveatars at S1 or S2, they can simply react like bots, instant-braking and super-minute corrections that I can't do quick enough as a human on a wheel so this is more about cruising around and enjoying the roads scenery and how they model the different cars.

These are the settings I'm currently using with this wheel setup (Fanatec CSW 2.5 Wheelbase + CSL Elite Wheel)
https://fanatec.com/eu-e...box-one-competition-pack
(If anyone is wondering how I use that to also play GT Sport, there is a little gizmo called a DriveHub that makes a PC-compatible wheel work with a PS4)

In-game FH4 settings:

Steering Axis Deadzone Inside: 0
Steering Axis Deadzone Outside: 100
Steering Linearity: 50
Acceleration Axis Deadzone Inside: 1
Acceleration Axis Deadzone Outside: 99
Deceleration Axis Deadzone Inside: 1
Deceleration Axis Deadzone Outside: 99
Vibration Scale: 1
Force Feedback Scale: 50
Centre Spring Scale: 10
Wheel Damper Scale: 15
Force Feedback Understeer: 0
Force Feedback Minimum Force: 90
Steering Sensitivity: 20

Settings on the wheel itself:

Sen 540
FF 100
Sho Off
ABS Off
Dri Off
For 80
Spr Off
Dpr 100
FEI 100

I've set plenty of top 10 rivals times with this setup, and some #1 times, though often those don't last all that long before Jezza tries a bit harder and beats them.

You're on PC right? No Sensitivity on the Xbox with my wheel, just a degrees option for 270 to 900. Is Sensitivity of 20 meaning your wheel is light and loose or heavy and tight......? Thanks for the contribution to the thread.

Yes, I'm on PC. I'm not sure what effect the in-game sensitivity of 20 has. I mainly use 540 degrees rotation, which is the Sen setting on the wheel itself. The force on my wheel varies with car and surface. With a high downforce car like the #94 VW, on tarmac, it's a significant workout, and the wheel's cooling fans become quite loud. With an offroad car in a cross country race, it's much lighter, reflecting the much lower grip.

So I got this new budget steering wheel for Forza Horizon 4, the Thrustmaster 458 Spider. Everything seems to be alright but I am unable to slide the cars properly.

Everytime it oversteers, it's impossible to countersteer. I checked the telemetry and the steering doesn't show full lock eventhough the actual wheel is.


Any help guys? I have played with many settings and stuck to default. Anything I can tweak? Also I just found out it works perfectly on Forza Horizon 3. hmmm

[Mod Edit - post merged to thread. Read through previous posts and be sure to check out the Wheel Guide at https://support.forzamotorsport.net/ - MM]

Edited by user Wednesday, April 8, 2020 2:47:25 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Good Afternoon everyone,

No rant, not a complaint just an observation.
Every time there is an update/hotfix, I have to relearn how to efficiently drive again with my steering wheel ( Logitech G27 ).
Despite not changing my settings ever, the FF, centre force and underster/oversteer changes significantly every time there is an update/hotfix.
I appreciate that I had to relearn all the best lines and ' flicking into corners' skills to complete this weeks playlist, however I wonder if anyone else experiences these changes when playing with steering wheel.
I have adjusted my settings to 20% FF vibration and changed the steering input to max as well as centering force to 0 which has resulted in the cars being really vague in centered steering position and understeering like 70's american barges, which i haven't even tried ....

Managed to be almost as quick now after three days of post update testing and fiddling, however the drifting part of the game is nigh impossible now with these settings as the limit from understeer to provoking oversteer in a corner now inevitably results in the back spinning out like crazy not withstanding the drivetrain, ie AWD FWD RWD.

Getting frustrated to a degree and just hoping that other Users have experienced the same and can advise of how they changed steering wheel changes.

Not sure if this has been asked before, I have the TM TMX wheel and pedal, I just started looked at different forums for settings nothing seemed to help, I just started in the intro race, The cars wheel goes nuts and when i turn my wheel it doesn't register the turn then it does and goes one extreme or the other hard left or hard right almost no in between while moving at a stand still it sort of turns as i turn, Is it because Im on a PC?

Have you updated the drivers and firmware for the wheel on the PC lately? If not start there. Go to the Thrustmaster website and install the driver and, if necessary, the firmware update.

Next, if you have a USB 2.0 port instead of a faster blue 3.0 port, try using that instead to plug the wheel into.

Lastly use the manual wheel settings to try and get it to a driveable state. Do this by holding down the MODE button on the front-right side of the wheel and while holding it down, click one of the paddle shifters. Each click should cause the little light near the mode button to flash 1-4 times, each flash corresponds to changing the rotational limit of the wheel from 270 degress or so through 500ish, then 700ish then finally max of 900 or 1080........the higher settings = lots of wheel turn required to turn the car, and the lowest setting will be super tight steering, more like an F1 car where a tiny turn = a huge turning of the wheels. The best settings are the two in between (so 2 flashes or 3 flashes).

From there you can go into the game settings for controls > wheel > advanced and start playing with the numbers. For a good baseline, try the following:
Everything in the advanced menu should be left as DEFAULT with the following changes:
Force Feedback to 50 (that might be the default, already)
Center Spring 10
Dampers 10
Sensitivity or Rotation (the last option at the bottom of the list) set it to 540 or 720, that is sort of a general sweet-spot where turning the wheel in real life corresponds to turning of the wheel in the cockpit view and is a good place to start your personalized tweaking.

Good Luck.

so all my drivers are up to date along with firmware, i hold the mode button down and i get nothing with shift up or down paddles in game, I took a video on my phone is there a way to upload it? I guess youtube, i didnt try the usb thing, i have a 7 port usb extender plugged into my mobo pcie its plugged in there, i think its a 3.0 so plug it into a non 3.0? ill give it a shot

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xw8fTxM6H_Q is the video, hopefully i can get help for this

Saw the video, make sure you are using a direct connect to the PC and not going through a hub, I've had trouble using hubs for wheel inputs in the past. A dedicated USB Extension Cable (go cheap get a 2.0 or slower, even) going into a slower USB 2.0 port (or even the mouse/keyboard ports on the back of the PC's motherboard) works best for me, but most pc's still have a couple of USB 2.0 ports available.

Also, you've downloaded and installed the Thrustmaster Control Panel app correct? How does that report the wheel. PS: If the mode + L/R paddle doesn't do anything for you (it should make the the little light near the button flash once, twice, three times etc......) try holding MODE and then using the d-pad l/r instead.

I suddenly found I could play the game with a wheel having previously always found it unplayable with a wheel, and there was an update, so I've always wondered if something changed significantly in that update.

In all updates since then, I haven't noticed any significant changes in how my wheel feels (Fanatec).

I agree about drifting, I find it impossible to do well with a wheel, and I find cars need to be really stable to be good for racing with a wheel, it seems to cause far more problems than the controller with cars getting sideways and it being impossible to bring them back, so you just slide sideways till you stop.

I'm amazed how people can drift with wheels in 3rd person, I see a lot of thrustmaster wheels with larger, heavier add-on rims to throw the wheels around, and I see people using a lot of Logitech products doing the same thing but with the stock wheels, I have no idea how they can make the wheels so light yet still have the power to snap-rotate back with FFB so quickly......which they then catch. I'm impressed.
I can't do that easily with my Thrustmaster TMX but I also rarely drift or use cars with drift suspensions and camber setups....that could be a factor.

The way the sticks work is you jam them over as your back-end starts to slide out....and as you keep the sticks pegged the game works a little magic, it's not like keyboard ON/OFF max turn or anything, even though the sticks haven't moved its more of a gradual ramp up of tires turning to their max, its like it slows down the turning...it you put simulation steering ON I think this changes is to a more literal interpretation of the stick position, making spinning out a whole lot easier in Simulation Steering mode.

The wheel just stays where you turn it. The game doesn't massage the turning for you, behind the scenes, it expects you to go hand-over-hand with your wheel, aka do it all yourself.

Try this: Adjust your LINEARITY to something like 40, then try it at 60 (instead of the default 50) with the wheel....see what that does for you. Also don't forget some cars love to oversteer (Porsche), you can adjust the rear diff to help alleviate some of that, and not just adjust the steering itself...sometimes...its just the car you've chosen.

You can cheat this a bit by using a wheel and then setting the rotational angle to something like 360 or 420 or something low, where going like 3/4 of a turn = nearly full lock.....you're either correcting the slide at that point or going around.

Unfortunately that also has the added side-effect of meaning every car in the game will feel like it has heavier, tight-ratio steering....and of course you'll be using the wheel a lot less, aka: actually turning it and getting the fidelity of the FFB that comes through when you have more rotation to work with. A lot of folks say 540 or so is a good compromise between the two, I personally use 700 or so but I try to play the game more like Forza Motorsport than Forza Horizon at that point.

Edited by user Wednesday, May 13, 2020 11:41:07 AM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Hi All,

Please let me know if I need to post this elsewhere.

I ahve a sterring wheel which allows for xinput and directinput to PC, but FH4 will only work with Xinput.

This would be fine except Xinput has literally the worst deadzones possible for my wheel as it basically recognises it as a controller and changing deadzones in FH4 does nothing.

I have gotten the wheel to work perfectly using X360ce in other games using the Antideadzone settings, but rather stupidly FH4 installs into a folder you cant make changes to, so I cant even drop the needed .DLL file into the folder for this to fix FH4.

So am I screwed? What do I need to do next?

Also if anyone from Microsoft happens to see this,

I AM CAPABLE OF HANDLING MY OWN FILES THANKS, DONT NEED YOU TO LITERALLY LOCK ME OUT OF FOLDERS ON A PC AND SOFTWARE THAT I OWN. GO BACK TO APPLE.

[Mod Edit - all posts must be in English only; translate your text before posting to the forums - MM

Edited by user Sunday, June 28, 2020 5:19:17 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Forza Horizon 4 - Thrustmaster T300RS GT - PC Windows 10 - Recommended Settings

I have tried several settings suggested by various posts from the internet but cannot make the wheel to work smoothly. I can drive the car at around 80 MPH but whenever there is a turn the car skids and the car becomes totally uncontrollable and goes for a spin. Can someone suggest me best possible settings for this wheel?

Wheel: Thrustmaster T300RS GT Edition
Forza Horizon 4
OS: Windows 10

Edited by user Sunday, August 9, 2020 7:38:03 AM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

I can't help you with settings for that wheel, but what you describe is more likely down to the car, tune, and your driving.

Some cars just don't work that well with a wheel no matter how they are tuned.

Some tunes made by keyboard or controller users are horrible with a wheel.

With a wheel, you have the possibility of steering too much, whereas you don't with a keyboard or controller. The car and tune have a big effect on how forgiving the car is around the region where the wheel is starting to be turned too much.

Also, braking can be tricky with a wheel, as you don't have the vibration feedback you get with a controller, or the stop that you have with an elite controller. You need to not slam the pedal fully down, more like 50-70% travel. I recommend having ABS off.

I have quite a few tunes shared that I've used to get high up on leaderboards with a wheel. E.g. for S1 you could try my tunes of the McLaren F1 and the 2005 Ford GT, both are strong S1 cars.