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I also struggled to find settings I was comfortable with due to twitchy oversteer and light or lack of feeling toward the center (unable to make slight movements at high speed). I like a heavy feeling in my wheel while still being able to feel the car's grip (or lack there of). Anyway, just did the Tarn Hows Scramble to qualify for autumn and this is where my settings are now. These may change a bit as I go back and forth testing on the road.. hope it helps..

Wheel and pedals: Logitech G920 on XBOX One
Steering: Simulation
ABS, TCS, SCS: All off
Vibration: On

For steering, acceleration, deceleration..
Deadzone inside: 0
Deadzone outside: 90

Steering linearity: 52 (the game's explanation is backwards in my opinion)

Clutch and E-brake settings are factory still..

Vibration scale: 25
Force feedback scale: 25
Centre Spring scale: 200
Wheel damper scale: 200
Force feedback understeer: 50
Force feedback minimum force: 50
Wheel rotation angle: 270

The brake pedal is about the only thing that works right for me lol. I think we can all just agree the the g920 is broke on this game. That aside I am loving the game on joypad i just wanna be able to use my wheel.

Using csl elite on PC version i also have the problem of loss of traction into unrecoverable spinout. Keyboard plays better using controller until they fix this

I just started to like the game with settings I posted above.

Response tonight from my support ticket submitted.

Its been confirmed that its been marked as a known issue and a fix is coming, yet there's no set date yet for its release.

At least there's been confirmation, can't fault that i suppose.

Thanks, game is on hold for me until then i guess. Nice bug-testing i got to say..

I've submitted 3 or 4 bug reports in as many days, the game is fun, but by god it's full of absolutely glaring bugs.

Delete

Edited by user Sunday, October 7, 2018 8:21:12 AM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Thanks for these - Tha'ts another Forza title you made playable for me, if they would fix the fact the power cuts out to the steering and accelerator every 5 seconds that would be grand :)

Ps Ignore the trolls, seeing as the game is set in the UK they should stop being JebEnds learn a bit of good ole fashioned British decency wot wot.

If someone doesn't like a setting...change it. duuh.

Edited by user Sunday, October 7, 2018 11:41:48 AM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

I just purchased the G29 for my pc. I have messed with settings for about 10 hours now, trying all sorts of things. Some are better than others, but I still get the same end result... spinning out. It doesnt matter how much speed or how much acceleration I give my car, I cannot counter steer. My car feels like it is on ice and I cant counter steer to gain control. Its almost like the wheel dies until the car stops moving and allows you to turn again.

That's exactly what is is doing, sometimes it starts functioning again if I change gear or lay off the revs but it does simply stop responding a LOT, half of the gear changes I make pretty much - its a joke.

Edited by user Sunday, October 7, 2018 12:05:16 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

I dont get it, obviously no bug testing for the most common wheel on the market. Its extra annoying since the game seems to be really good, ive spent the last week of game time in settings that dont work instead of playing the actual game. Im back to horizon 2 now. Ffs.

Likewise...just deleted my saves....can't faulty the game...TBH, prefer it over the likes of FM7...find the controls more "realistic" on the wheel (when it works).

Only real fault for me and this goes for other brands (Konami) for example...they've reduced the community "connection" - once upon forums like these were buzzing with members in the know, or approached to be involved with up to date info...it made the communities thrive. Unfortunately, it appears that those days are gone.

Sooner they come back the better for all, including the guys who make the games.

I have had a reply they have told me I need to update the firmware on my wheel. I will give it a try but I'm not convinced it will work.

lol from logitech site, most recent firmware:

Software Version: 96.3.49
Last Update: 6-MAY-2016

There seems to be two main issues (apart from the deadzones, ffb vibration, etc, bugs).

1) On wheel or controller there is a noticable input lag or smoothing. Given the distance you need to move a wheel to correct a slide compared to a pad, this is a big issue, as you can often try to catch slides that then flick back as it thinks you're overcorrecting.

2) The throttle mapping is bats**t insane - this is why the wheels feel like all the cars are massively oversteering even when stock.
Instead of being mapped like a normal throttle, to torque demand, the accerator appears to just relate to the available power at the time.

For example, in a road car with 200bhp at 3000rpm - lets say you open the throttle to 50% and it gives you 100bhp at 3000rpm.
Now, that same car makes 400bhp at 6000rpm - but it'll still only give you 100bhp if you go to 50% throttle at 6000rpm.

In game, the throttle is giving you a percentage *of the power available* - basically, 50% of what it can make at that rpm.
So, in game car is 200bhp at 3000rpm, half throttle gives you 100bhp.
At 6000rpm, the car makes 400bhp. 50% throttle gives you 200bhp.

It's not at all linear, it makes engines that come on boost or cam and produce more torque in sudden jumps suddenly crank on a load more power even if you're only on half throttle trying to control a slide. So you spin out. Even though you shouldn't.
Whoever set it needs a slap around the back of the head.
Now, I don't even think it was designed like that - these problems haven't been in other Forza games - I think they're using a blend of the two or some sort of modifier curve on the throttle to make it feel like that - and that's the end result, or feels like it anyway - the bottom 75% of the pedal basically ends up doing nothing and the last 25% is like a switch.


If you think the game designers couldn't possibly let a bug this glaring past - someone would have noticed, right?
Well, the Brake Bias slider in game for tuning is reversed, nobody has noticed it, nobody has even mentioned it on this forum, I sent a bug report in days ago and have heard nothing.
How does that get past Beta!?

Edited by user Tuesday, October 9, 2018 7:27:30 AM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

As an addendium - this is why you don't see the issue at all on a keyboard - you're never modulating at part throttle but instead using PWM.

Well that's not going to work then is it lol

Well, it seems like we are the beta testers and some of us even paid a premium for it. Only difference to a real beta is that the game devs dont give feedback. This is a bad look really.

G920 on PC

If you just stick with FWD cars the game plays ok !

The fact that 90% of the cars are AWD or RWD means that we really need some patch love fast !!

Just wanted to weigh in here. I wrote my own thread with the exact same thing here:

https://forums.forzamoto...-out-and-unplayable.aspx

The game is unplayable with a G920 / G27 wheel and as you can see the other people in that thread have the same issue with other wheels. Its impossible to control fast S1 - S2 cars at speed, offroad is impossible to do with a wheel. Im constantly spinning out and cant recover the car as soon as it loses traction, but if i rewind and try to recover with a controller its ez pz.

I've tried the various settings but none really work, some do make it a little better. The game is on hold for me until this can get fixed.
I had no issues in FH2 & 3, and i went back to sanity check.

Hey all, been having same issue. Got reply from their support

"We are still working on this issue and have a fix in the works. Ill be posting a Wheel Guide later today"

Said should be posting it on the support page.

So fingers crossed will be working soon.

Hi all, been having the same issues. Got a message from their support today.

"We are still working on this issue and have a fix in the works. Ill be posting a Wheel Guide later today"

Said should be posting on support page.

So hopfully will be fixed soon

I'm not sure a wheel guide will fix the game only using about 2/3rds of your set wheel and pedal travel because the deadzone are so broken. Or the strange accelerator mapping.
There's also a weird spot in the wheel where the steering response speeds up even on a linear mapping - you can see it on the ingame telemetry even to confirm it.

The wheel suddenly goes from "X* of input = Y* of output" to "X* of input = 2Y*" of output about halfway through the axis travel both ways. It doesn't matter if you're set to linear steering map, exponential or decaying steering setting in game, there's a step change always there.


Edit: It's the steering sensitivity setting - for some reason it just gives a step change in steering output either above or below halfway through the axis - even with steering linearity set at 50 (linear mapping) it ignores it and gives this weird change - set it to 50 and it goes away, nothing above or below that. It's also the cause of that godawful clunk/hitch when you try to catch a slide and the wheel kicks against you for a split second.

Edited by user Tuesday, October 9, 2018 1:14:37 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

G920 PC

Woo Hoo !!!!!

Just managed to get a 1st place in a scramble with an AWD S1 Class - (Escort RS Cosworth) with the following settings :-

Braking Assisted (to get used to the steering)
Steering Normal
Traction Off
Stability On

Vibration - Off
All Outside Deadzones - 20
Linearity - 60
VS -25
FFS -75
Spring - 0
Damper -0
FFU - 50
FFMF - 5
Sensitivity - 0

Now I've turned braking "assisted" to ABS ON and I'm enjoying climbing the places and not being 12/12