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Rank: Racing Permit
#126 Posted : Thursday, June 16, 2016 1:16:04 PM(UTC)
i've had mine since launch, have not had one issue.
i did mod my brake, but thats just preference..

if you're set on it, go for it!
Rank: C-Class Racing License
#127 Posted : Thursday, June 16, 2016 8:39:03 PM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: RecklessMango40 Go to Quoted Post
Hey all,

I am purchasing this wheel and I was just wondering if all the bugs are sorted yet?



All the bugs? This wheel has been rock solid. There have been a few minor and infrequent issues, but certainly nothing like the Thrustmaster TX reliability problems. I've had my G920 new since Septembler and it works great. Just put the latest software update on it as well which fixed the wheel rotation setting to 900 degrees when the Xbox guide button was pressed. As a past TX owner, I'd still buy the G920 over it any day.
Rank: Driver's Permit
#128 Posted : Wednesday, June 22, 2016 3:57:46 AM(UTC)
Do you guys use a wheel stand for this wheel? And if so which brands or models do you recommend? Thanks!
Rank: A-Class Racing License
#129 Posted : Wednesday, June 22, 2016 6:34:37 AM(UTC)
gt omega.

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Rank: C-Class Racing License
#130 Posted : Saturday, July 16, 2016 9:11:34 AM(UTC)
I finally got my G920 as well two days ago. I haven't had much time to test it yet, but I did notice this is going to take alot of time getting used to.
It's my first decent wheel, so I'm new to the game. I'm currently trying to figure out what all the advanced options are for. If anyone has some spare time to explain all the following options to me, that would be greatly appreciated. I think an explanation with an example of what changes will occur will do the trick for me.
I already wrote down the list, so if someone's in for it, you can just quote it.

Steering Axis Deadzone Inside:
Steering Axis Deadzone Outside:
Acceleration Axis Deadzone Inside:
Acceleration Axis Deadzone Outside:
Deceleration Axis Deadzone Inside:
Deceleration Axis Deadzone Outside:
Clutch Axis Deadzone Inside:
Clutch Axis Deadzone Outside:
Handbrake Axis Deadzone Inside:
Handbrake Axis Deadzone Outside:
Vibration Scale: I understand what this does
Force Feedback Scale:
Wheel Rotation Scale: I understand this too, although I do not know why you would change it.

Thanks in advance.



Rank: A-Class Racing License
 1 user liked this post.
#131 Posted : Saturday, July 16, 2016 8:48:25 PM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: Steve Rcgers Go to Quoted Post
I finally got my G920 as well two days ago. I haven't had much time to test it yet, but I did notice this is going to take alot of time getting used to.
It's my first decent wheel, so I'm new to the game. I'm currently trying to figure out what all the advanced options are for. If anyone has some spare time to explain all the following options to me, that would be greatly appreciated. I think an explanation with an example of what changes will occur will do the trick for me.
I already wrote down the list, so if someone's in for it, you can just quote it.

Steering Axis Deadzone Inside:
Steering Axis Deadzone Outside:
Acceleration Axis Deadzone Inside:
Acceleration Axis Deadzone Outside:
Deceleration Axis Deadzone Inside:
Deceleration Axis Deadzone Outside:
Clutch Axis Deadzone Inside:
Clutch Axis Deadzone Outside:
Handbrake Axis Deadzone Inside:
Handbrake Axis Deadzone Outside:
Vibration Scale: I understand what this does
Force Feedback Scale:
Wheel Rotation Scale: I understand this too, although I do not know why you would change it.

Thanks in advance.





Steering Axis Deadzone Inside: From dead centre position, the percentage of wheel rotation the game will ignore before registering an input. Will create a dead zone at the center wheel position.

Steering Axis Deadzone Outside: The percentage of wheel rotation the game will ignore at either end of full rotation. The game will register full lock early if you set this high.

Acceleration Axis Deadzone Inside: The portion of initial accelerator travel the game will ignore. Normally used if the game thinks you are accelerating when your foot is off the pedal.

Acceleration Axis Deadzone Outside: The portion at the end of the accelerator travel that the game will ignore. Means you will have full throttle earlier in the pedal travel. Turn this up if you have the pedal all the way down but the game does not register 100% throttle.

Deceleration Axis Deadzone Inside: Same as acceleration but for the brake.
Deceleration Axis Deadzone Outside: Same as acceleration but for the brake. On a G920, this probably needs to be close to 50 or higher with how stiff the pedal is.

Clutch Axis Deadzone Inside: Same as acceleration but for the clutch
Clutch Axis Deadzone Outside: Same as acceleration but for the clutch. I needed to put mine around 90.

Handbrake Axis Deadzone Inside: Same as acceleration but for the hand brake
Handbrake Axis Deadzone Outside: Same as acceleration but for the hand brake

Vibration Scale: I understand what this does

Force Feedback Scale: How strong the force feedback turning the wheel left and right will be. Set it lower if you want to drift, higher is good for me when I do circuit racing.

Wheel Rotation Scale: I understand this too, although I do not know why you would change it.
Change this because race cars might have a faster steering rack and less degrees of rotation.

I actually set my degrees of rotation at 900 and use Steering Axis Outside Deadzone to set my degrees of rotation.

For example, I leave my Rotation at 900 and set my outside Deadzone to 60.

So I end up with 900*60%= 540 degrees of rotation, for example. This supposedly helps provide more feel in the wheel at dead centre.

Edited by user Saturday, July 16, 2016 8:52:20 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

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Rank: C-Class Racing License
#132 Posted : Sunday, July 17, 2016 5:47:31 AM(UTC)
Thank you for taking your time to explain things. Most of it is clear to me now, except for some.

About Steering Axis Deadzone: let’s say I put the ‘inside’ on 5%. That way the wheel will not register any input when I either turn the wheel 5% left or right, correct?
But there is a dead zone at center wheel position already is there not? What could be a reason for increasing this dead zone?

What’s the Handbrake Axis Deadzone for as the handbrake is assigned to a button?

Could you explain a bit more about the Force Feedback scale? Why would I turn it lower for drifting? Wouldn’t it be more plausible for the wheel to turn back to its center position, forcing me to keep it in the position it’s in while doing a drift?

About Wheel Rotation Scale: if race cars have a faster steering rack, wouldn’t they just respond faster without changing the wheel rotation? I think I’m not getting what you’re saying here.

Again, thank you for taking the time to teach a newb.
Rank: A-Class Racing License
#133 Posted : Sunday, July 17, 2016 5:29:52 PM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: Steve Rcgers Go to Quoted Post
Thank you for taking your time to explain things. Most of it is clear to me now, except for some.

About Steering Axis Deadzone: let’s say I put the ‘inside’ on 5%. That way the wheel will not register any input when I either turn the wheel 5% left or right, correct?
But there is a dead zone at center wheel position already is there not? What could be a reason for increasing this dead zone?

What’s the Handbrake Axis Deadzone for as the handbrake is assigned to a button?

Could you explain a bit more about the Force Feedback scale? Why would I turn it lower for drifting? Wouldn’t it be more plausible for the wheel to turn back to its center position, forcing me to keep it in the position it’s in while doing a drift?

About Wheel Rotation Scale: if race cars have a faster steering rack, wouldn’t they just respond faster without changing the wheel rotation? I think I’m not getting what you’re saying here.

Again, thank you for taking the time to teach a newb.


About Steering Axis Deadzone: let’s say I put the ‘inside’ on 5%. That way the wheel will not register any input when I either turn the wheel 5% left or right, correct?

A: So the way to read this is 2.5% dead zone left and 2.5% deadzone right for a total deadzone of 5%

But there is a dead zone at center wheel position already is there not?

A: Some refer to a "deadspot" in the middle of the G920 but this is best described as a lack of feel / force feedback at dead centre. The game will still register your inputs with an inside deadzone of 0, but you may not be getting any feel from the G920.

What could be a reason for increasing this dead zone?

A: The main reason for setting any inside deadzone higher than 0 is when the game registers phantom input. Which means the game thinks you are turning left or right when you have the wheel straight. You want to cancel out the phantom input of the hardware. Same goes for accel, brake and clutch - Your foot could be off the pedals, but the game thinks you have 2% brake or accelerator applied - so you would then go in and set a deadzone of 2% for example.

What’s the Handbrake Axis Deadzone for as the handbrake is assigned to a button?

A: probably not effective if assigned to a button but remember the buttons should have sensitivity along their travel too. I can't remember how many levels of sensitivity the Xbox One controllers have, but for example the old Dual Shock 2 controllers I believe had 256 levels of sensitivity on their presses.

Could you explain a bit more about the Force Feedback scale?

A: It's really just FFB strength. Not much more to it. Turn down or up to suit your taste.

Why would I turn it lower for drifting?

A: You can experiment with this, but most of the drifters on YouTube have this lower than I would for circuit racing.

Wouldn’t it be more plausible for the wheel to turn back to its center position, forcing me to keep it in the position it’s in while doing a drift?

A: This is sorta well documented in the "Steering Wheels and You, a hopefully helpful guide" Thread in the Main FM6 forum - I believe it is stickied. It is a huge thread, but really worth taking the time to process it and read it to get the most out of your wheel. By the end of it you'll come away with a proper understanding of the state of the wheel in Forza.

Long story short: Forza in general on Xbox One needs improvement with the FFB on a wheel. You can certainly use a wheel effectively but you need to learn how to do it and it may not be as natural as you expect it to be. Different people are working around Forza's limitations in different ways.

The self centering effect of the wheel in Forza is not very natural and I personally have not come to rely on it.

Note that this is not the fault of the G920. Other titles on Xbox One prove that the G920 can feel great and quite natural.

About Wheel Rotation Scale: if race cars have a faster steering rack, wouldn’t they just respond faster without changing the wheel rotation? I think I’m not getting what you’re saying here.

A: Forza does not simulate each car's steering rack separately. It is up to you to set the wheel rotation in the menu. So if you want a race car to have a fast steering rack to exploit its agility and general high speed duties, you will need to set it yourself.
Click to watch Sim and Realword Driving Videos

PC & XB1
Next Level Racing GT Ultimate v2
Fanatec Clubsport: Wheelbase v2.5 | Inverted Pedals v3 | SQ Shifter v1.5 | Universal Hub for XB1
Rank: Driver's Permit
#134 Posted : Tuesday, August 15, 2017 5:10:06 AM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: J Cauthen Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: Skunkworks16 Go to Quoted Post
Why would you throw away your 2 year warranty? Get Logitech to fix it. At least contact them first. Maybe they'll send you a new wheel and you just have to send the old one back?


I have a history of doing this over the years. I haven't lived to regret it yet, as I have always come up with a fix on my own that seemed more palatable to me... at least in my confidence in the equipment going forward. I took my G920 completely apart today and was able to confirm (through continuity checks with an ohmmeter) that I have two broken wires between the connector on the wheel and the one in the base. The outer insulation had a cut in it that appears to be the result of stress. I could see a few of the individual conductors exposed through this cut, or separation. I'm going to replace the 24 gauge wire that is used in this application with 18 Gauge wire. It's going to be a lot of work, but I'll have the materials and the time, come Tuesday night, to do it. It's probably going to involve three to four hours of work, but in the end, I think I'll have a wheel that I'll have some confidence in.



Did you have any luck with fixing this, I have the same issue. I will attempt to fix and take notes.
Rank: Driver's Permit
#135 Posted : Thursday, August 17, 2017 9:00:47 AM(UTC)
Hi Brains of TNT...Funny I read this 2 days later you wrote into that dead topic...but I got the same problem last week..first I thought there is some shifting help activated because I never could shift into the lower gears in corners..later on I realized it had nothing to do with the shifters, its all the buttons that fail...
enough from my story back to your question...
My first idea was to contact Logitech because my wheel is 1 1/2 years old - in Austria you have no chance to go back to the dealer where you bought it for warranty- not 1 1/2 year later
So I made a claim on the logitech page, adding serial number and the bill from purchase.
3 days later I got a message that a new wheel is on its way - but they don't want the failing one back - nice :)

So I got the new one today and instantly opened the old one - there is no visible damage on my cable, but as soon as I twist it a little, it fails

All in all I repair my old wheel and have 2 now - sad thing is that logitech is a throw away company because they know it's just one failing cable...

Sorry for my bad English - greetings from Austria
Rank: Driver's Permit
#136 Posted : Saturday, December 23, 2017 5:29:16 AM(UTC)
HELP ME PLZZZZZZ




My G920 gearshift keeps on stuffing up when i change into any other gear than 1st and 2nd when i change to third it goes to first when i change to 4th it goes to 2nd and same with 5th and 6th plzzz help me i am very very sad i only brought this at the start of this year :( .
Rank: A-Class Racing License
#137 Posted : Saturday, December 23, 2017 3:50:08 PM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: i like noodless Go to Quoted Post
HELP ME PLZZZZZZ

My G920 gearshift keeps on stuffing up when i change into any other gear than 1st and 2nd when i change to third it goes to first when i change to 4th it goes to 2nd and same with 5th and 6th plzzz help me i am very very sad i only brought this at the start of this year :( .


I would take it back to be replaced under warranty.

My shifter failed after 14 months or so and it was replaced.
Click to watch Sim and Realword Driving Videos

PC & XB1
Next Level Racing GT Ultimate v2
Fanatec Clubsport: Wheelbase v2.5 | Inverted Pedals v3 | SQ Shifter v1.5 | Universal Hub for XB1
Rank: Driver's Permit
#138 Posted : Saturday, September 1, 2018 3:37:14 AM(UTC)
-resolved-

Edited by user Sunday, September 2, 2018 1:25:01 AM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

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