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Rank: A-Class Racing License
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#1 Posted : Sunday, September 13, 2015 4:42:54 AM(UTC)
As like a lot of people I was not happy with TX wheel and Forza 6. So I went searching on the internet, changing settings and testing and finally found the perfect setup (for myself). Hope this helps other people also. I now REALLY enjoy the wheel with Forza 6, and can drive the cars to the limit. I can recover from potential skidding, catching the back on time and really drive fast, all with great FFB!
I now even drive with all assists off, something I couldn't do before! So far I have not tested this on the supercars and really fast cars.

In game settings:
-In the wheel settings I have selected Layout 1, Rumble=On, rest of the settings off.
-In the advanced wheel settings I have:
Steering Axis Deadzone Inside: 0
Steering Axis Deadzone Outside: 100
Acceleration Axis Deadzone Inside: 14
Acceleration Axis Deadzone Outside: 100
Deceleration Axis Deadzone Inside: 15
Deceleration Axis Deadzone Outside: 100
Clutch Axis Deadzone Inside: 0
Clutch Axis Deadzone Outside: 100
Handbrake Axis Deadzone Inside: 10
Handbrake Axis Deadzone Outside: 100
Vibration Scale: 100
Force Feedback Scale: 100 (I like this but can be reduced if you feel it is to heavy)
Wheel Rotation Angle: 540

Setting up the TX wheel
-You can set the sensitivty of the wheel by using the MODE button and the Right Shifter Paddle.
Set this to 2 green lights flashing by pressing Mode + Right Shifter Paddle untill it flashes green twice.
-As I use the manual clutch and don't have a clutch pedal, when going racing I press MODE + A to set the wheel to auto-clutch. Remember to turn this off (MODE + A again) in the menu's.

Hope this helps people, let me know.
It takes 8,460 bolts to assemble an automobile, and one nut to scatter it all over the road.

My Forza 6 paints
Rank: A-Class Racing License
 1 user liked this post.
#2 Posted : Sunday, September 13, 2015 10:28:48 AM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: HLR Leceur Go to Quoted Post
As like a lot of people I was not happy with TX wheel and Forza 6. So I went searching on the internet, changing settings and testing and finally found the perfect setup (for myself). Hope this helps other people also. I now REALLY enjoy the wheel with Forza 6, and can drive the cars to the limit. I can recover from potential skidding, catching the back on time and really drive fast, all with great FFB!
I now even drive with all assists off, something I couldn't do before! So far I have not tested this on the supercars and really fast cars.

In game settings:
-In the wheel settings I have selected Layout 1, Rumble=On, rest of the settings off.
-In the advanced wheel settings I have:
Steering Axis Deadzone Inside: 0
Steering Axis Deadzone Outside: 100
Acceleration Axis Deadzone Inside: 14
Acceleration Axis Deadzone Outside: 100
Deceleration Axis Deadzone Inside: 15
Deceleration Axis Deadzone Outside: 100
Clutch Axis Deadzone Inside: 0
Clutch Axis Deadzone Outside: 100
Handbrake Axis Deadzone Inside: 10
Handbrake Axis Deadzone Outside: 100
Vibration Scale: 100
Force Feedback Scale: 100 (I like this but can be reduced if you feel it is to heavy)
Wheel Rotation Angle: 540

Setting up the TX wheel
-You can set the sensitivty of the wheel by using the MODE button and the Right Shifter Paddle.
Set this to 2 green lights flashing by pressing Mode + Right Shifter Paddle untill it flashes green twice.
-As I use the manual clutch and don't have a clutch pedal, when going racing I press MODE + A to set the wheel to auto-clutch. Remember to turn this off (MODE + A again) in the menu's.

Hope this helps people, let me know.

This is what I was poorly trying to explain to everyone in the other thread about how bad the wheel was. So many people know about auto clutch and DOR but very few know about the SENS setting. That is a great fine tuning option for the wheel. I am really glad you got it to work because when you get it working it is an AWESOME game!!!

Rank: A-Class Racing License
#3 Posted : Sunday, September 13, 2015 11:17:17 AM(UTC)
Does the sensitivity setting on 2 flashes make countersteering easier?? That was my only complaint about using the wheel in fm6.

I have been messing with both the wheel and contoller a bit more and since have come to the conclusion that it isn't too hard to recover from a slide on the wheel, it's just super easy with a contoller
Rank: A-Class Racing License
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#4 Posted : Sunday, September 13, 2015 11:19:42 AM(UTC)
The sensitivity setting on the wheel can help with certain things but it does effect the ffb which the Thrustmaster website states, and thats what my issue is with the game. I can control the car, I just can't feel it, and there's nothing that can fix that besides a patch from turn 10.
Rank: A-Class Racing License
#5 Posted : Sunday, September 13, 2015 11:57:30 AM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: im2fast4u711 Go to Quoted Post
The sensitivity setting on the wheel can help with certain things but it does effect the ffb which the Thrustmaster website states, and thats what my issue is with the game. I can control the car, I just can't feel it, and there's nothing that can fix that besides a patch from turn 10.



Which car and class? I vaguely remember the wheel having more and more feel the more grip the car had in forza 5...like the f1 car vs the d class mini.. not sure if 6 is the same.

Sorry you are having issues, I think the wheel feels pretty good ( not pcars good with proper jack spade settings but at least as good as pcars with stock settings ). I just wish they had the countersteer assist like pcars did so I could run 900 dor

Edited by user Sunday, September 13, 2015 12:00:03 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Rank: A-Class Racing License
#6 Posted : Sunday, September 13, 2015 12:03:03 PM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: IR STiGGLES Go to Quoted Post
Does the sensitivity setting on 2 flashes make countersteering easier?? That was my only complaint about using the wheel in fm6.

MUUUUUUCH easier! I can now almost catch all understeering. Oke in some cases I just push to hard and there is no more saving that. But I have played with the same cars I was struggling with before and now I can really feel the car.

Originally Posted by: im2fast4u711 Go to Quoted Post
The sensitivity setting on the wheel can help with certain things but it does effect the ffb which the Thrustmaster website states, and thats what my issue is with the game. I can control the car, I just can't feel it, and there's nothing that can fix that besides a patch from turn 10.

Well I certainly feel all FFB now and even sometimes think to lower the setting from 100. Feedback from the car is epic, rumble strips, car starts skidding, wheels slipping under power, etc. I love the game now, feels like it should. So assume you have the latest firmware installed and have the setting like I explained in the OP?

It takes 8,460 bolts to assemble an automobile, and one nut to scatter it all over the road.

My Forza 6 paints
Rank: D-Class Racing License
#7 Posted : Sunday, September 13, 2015 12:13:45 PM(UTC)
Tagging this thread for reference.
Rank: C-Class Racing License
#8 Posted : Sunday, September 13, 2015 12:24:19 PM(UTC)
Tried with an s class car. Amazing. I knew about the sensitivity config, but always though that changing would be **** and should always use the in game setting. Boy was I wrong!
Thanks for this. Major improvement.
Only draw back is that it looks weird with the cockpit camera, but I rarely use it anyway because of the bad FOV.
Rank: A-Class Racing License
#9 Posted : Sunday, September 13, 2015 1:51:54 PM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: im2fast4u711 Go to Quoted Post
The sensitivity setting on the wheel can help with certain things but it does effect the ffb which the Thrustmaster website states, and thats what my issue is with the game. I can control the car, I just can't feel it, and there's nothing that can fix that besides a patch from turn 10.

Well I certainly feel all FFB now and even sometimes think to lower the setting from 100. Feedback from the car is epic, rumble strips, car starts skidding, wheels slipping under power, etc. I love the game now, feels like it should. So assume you have the latest firmware installed and have the setting like I explained in the OP?[/quote]

Those things you just mentioned are not ffb, they're controlled by the vibration setting.
Rank: A-Class Racing License
#10 Posted : Sunday, September 13, 2015 1:59:29 PM(UTC)
It all has to do with the forces you feel when taking turns, so I meant you can really feel the car and the weight through the wheel.
It takes 8,460 bolts to assemble an automobile, and one nut to scatter it all over the road.

My Forza 6 paints
Rank: A-Class Racing License
 1 user liked this post.
#11 Posted : Sunday, September 13, 2015 2:06:28 PM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: IR STiGGLES Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: im2fast4u711 Go to Quoted Post
The sensitivity setting on the wheel can help with certain things but it does effect the ffb which the Thrustmaster website states, and thats what my issue is with the game. I can control the car, I just can't feel it, and there's nothing that can fix that besides a patch from turn 10.



Which car and class? I vaguely remember the wheel having more and more feel the more grip the car had in forza 5...like the f1 car vs the d class mini.. not sure if 6 is the same.

Sorry you are having issues, I think the wheel feels pretty good ( not pcars good with proper jack spade settings but at least as good as pcars with stock settings ). I just wish they had the countersteer assist like pcars did so I could run 900 dor


Maybe if I never played other games with a wheel it'd feel good to me but I have. I can accept the fact that ill aways be faster with a controller, but i cant accept the lack of enjoyment when using the wheel in the past few forzas. Project Cars did go overboard with the settings for ffb, but at least we could customize it ourselves. Forza 6 has the same wheel settings they had since the first one which was 10 years ago. I think it's time to start giving us some more options than they currently are. Theres about 5-6 threads in the past few days, including one from VoodooUomo about the wheel and more people have issues than not. In my eyes that means there's a problem. Is it playable, sure, i could put up top 1% times with it in 5,but i dont find it fun and I think that's the most important factor for me. I play games to have fun, and I can't say I've had any while using the wheel in these games.
Rank: A-Class Racing License
#12 Posted : Sunday, September 13, 2015 2:10:33 PM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: HLR Leceur Go to Quoted Post
It all has to do with the forces you feel when taking turns, so I meant you can really feel the car and the weight through the wheel.


Yes they are a part of the overall experience, but i find the actual ffb, the forces that effect your steering, aren't strong enough for my liking. These conversations will always go back and forth because we have different opinions, and I'm happy you guys are enjoying it, I just wish I could as well. I dont mind playing with a controller, i think that's where forza excels, i just wish when I felt like playing with my not so cheap wheel and pedal setup I could get some enjoyment out of the game.

Edited by user Sunday, September 13, 2015 2:13:09 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Rank: C-Class Racing License
#13 Posted : Sunday, September 13, 2015 2:31:16 PM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: HLR Leceur Go to Quoted Post
As like a lot of people I was not happy with TX wheel and Forza 6. So I went searching on the internet, changing settings and testing and finally found the perfect setup (for myself). Hope this helps other people also. I now REALLY enjoy the wheel with Forza 6, and can drive the cars to the limit. I can recover from potential skidding, catching the back on time and really drive fast, all with great FFB!
I now even drive with all assists off, something I couldn't do before! So far I have not tested this on the supercars and really fast cars.

In game settings:
-In the wheel settings I have selected Layout 1, Rumble=On, rest of the settings off.
-In the advanced wheel settings I have:
Steering Axis Deadzone Inside: 0
Steering Axis Deadzone Outside: 100
Acceleration Axis Deadzone Inside: 14
Acceleration Axis Deadzone Outside: 100
Deceleration Axis Deadzone Inside: 15
Deceleration Axis Deadzone Outside: 100
Clutch Axis Deadzone Inside: 0
Clutch Axis Deadzone Outside: 100
Handbrake Axis Deadzone Inside: 10
Handbrake Axis Deadzone Outside: 100
Vibration Scale: 100
Force Feedback Scale: 100 (I like this but can be reduced if you feel it is to heavy)
Wheel Rotation Angle: 540

Setting up the TX wheel
-You can set the sensitivty of the wheel by using the MODE button and the Right Shifter Paddle.
Set this to 2 green lights flashing by pressing Mode + Right Shifter Paddle untill it flashes green twice.
-As I use the manual clutch and don't have a clutch pedal, when going racing I press MODE + A to set the wheel to auto-clutch. Remember to turn this off (MODE + A again) in the menu's.

Hope this helps people, let me know.


Tagging this for future reference.... going to buy a wheel very soon :)
Rank: D-Class Racing License
#14 Posted : Sunday, September 13, 2015 3:18:45 PM(UTC)
TX with Fanatec CSP V2
Layout 1 no chances.
Advanced setting:
0 STEER IN
90 STEER OUT
5 ACC IN
9 ACC OUT0
5 DEC IN
90 DEC OUT
5 CLU IN
40 CLU OUT
0 HB IN
00 HB OUT
15 VIBE
85 FFB
360 DOR
Noting done on the wheel itself. Feels great a little sofr in the center but you can really feel the slip angle in the corners
Rank: X-Class Racing License
#15 Posted : Sunday, September 13, 2015 3:30:12 PM(UTC)
Does the Auto-Clutch feature on the wheel mean you can set the game to Manual w/ Clutch and then don't have to use a clutch on the wheel? That alone would make me consider purchasing it a lot sooner.
Rank: D-Class Racing License
#16 Posted : Sunday, September 13, 2015 3:32:31 PM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: PPiDrive Go to Quoted Post
Does the Auto-Clutch feature on the wheel mean you can set the game to Manual w/ Clutch and then don't have to use a clutch on the wheel? That alone would make me consider purchasing it a lot sooner.


Yes, but I believe it's only the Thrustmaster TX that has this feature right now. It engages the clutch when you depress the paddle shifter.
Rank: A-Class Racing License
#17 Posted : Sunday, September 13, 2015 3:51:34 PM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: SkyGodHORUS Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: PPiDrive Go to Quoted Post
Does the Auto-Clutch feature on the wheel mean you can set the game to Manual w/ Clutch and then don't have to use a clutch on the wheel? That alone would make me consider purchasing it a lot sooner.


Yes, but I believe it's only the Thrustmaster TX that has this feature right now. It engages the clutch when you depress the paddle shifter.


This but the auto clutch feature only works when the clutch button is mapped to the A button
Rank: Driver's License
 1 user liked this post.
#18 Posted : Sunday, September 13, 2015 3:57:49 PM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: HLR Leceur Go to Quoted Post
As like a lot of people I was not happy with TX wheel and Forza 6. So I went searching on the internet, changing settings and testing and finally found the perfect setup (for myself). Hope this helps other people also. I now REALLY enjoy the wheel with Forza 6, and can drive the cars to the limit. I can recover from potential skidding, catching the back on time and really drive fast, all with great FFB!
I now even drive with all assists off, something I couldn't do before! So far I have not tested this on the supercars and really fast cars.

In game settings:
-In the wheel settings I have selected Layout 1, Rumble=On, rest of the settings off.
-In the advanced wheel settings I have:
Steering Axis Deadzone Inside: 0
Steering Axis Deadzone Outside: 100
Acceleration Axis Deadzone Inside: 14
Acceleration Axis Deadzone Outside: 100
Deceleration Axis Deadzone Inside: 15
Deceleration Axis Deadzone Outside: 100
Clutch Axis Deadzone Inside: 0
Clutch Axis Deadzone Outside: 100
Handbrake Axis Deadzone Inside: 10
Handbrake Axis Deadzone Outside: 100
Vibration Scale: 100
Force Feedback Scale: 100 (I like this but can be reduced if you feel it is to heavy)
Wheel Rotation Angle: 540

Setting up the TX wheel
-You can set the sensitivty of the wheel by using the MODE button and the Right Shifter Paddle.
Set this to 2 green lights flashing by pressing Mode + Right Shifter Paddle untill it flashes green twice.
-As I use the manual clutch and don't have a clutch pedal, when going racing I press MODE + A to set the wheel to auto-clutch. Remember to turn this off (MODE + A again) in the menu's.

Hope this helps people, let me know.


Thanks Leceur for sharing!
Rank: A-Class Racing License
 1 user liked this post.
#19 Posted : Sunday, September 13, 2015 4:08:26 PM(UTC)
They stickied VoodooUomo's post if you guys wanna take a look, gives some insight on setting deadzones as well as how you should calibrate your pedals b4 a race.
Rank: C-Class Racing License
 7 users liked this post.
#20 Posted : Sunday, September 13, 2015 5:04:17 PM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: IR STiGGLES Go to Quoted Post
Sorry you are having issues, I think the wheel feels pretty good ( not pcars good with proper jack spade settings but at least as good as pcars with stock settings ).


My thoughts exactly. I just wish we could properly adjust steering ratio and let the DOR fall out to what ever it ends up being based on the cars total steering geometry. Then it would be easy to go from the street cars to the race cars. Instead of guessing that the F1 car has half the steering lock so it needs half the DOR to get the same steering gain (ratio of wheel turn to turn rate) you could just set the steering ratio on the same page you set the caster for the car.

540 DOR with sensitivity 2 is equivalent to 900 DOR for small +/- 20 deg turns of the wheel. I mapped it out and 360 with sensitivity 3 is also the same with the same steering gain around center. The best I can tell, sensitivity is simply how linear the wheel is. Default is linear (1 to 1) so with DOR 900 one degree of TX steering wheel is 1/450th of total angle on the the car. With a DOR of 540 and sensitivity 2 one degree of TX steering wheel is different depending on where the wheel is. Around center with 540 DOR and default sensitivity a one degree turn of the wheel would be 1/270th of total. But with sensitivity 2 it is more like 900 DOR at 1/450th around center and 1/360th as you approach the stop at 270 degrees of rotation.

This is why I run DOR 540 sensitivity 2. It gives me the precision around center like 900 DOR to make very small inputs but also gives me the quickness of 360 DOR at large deflections so I can catch the car with counter steer. You also don't need to go hand over hand to get full input. It only takes 270 deg vice 450 deg of rotation to get full input.

Basically sensitivity 2 drives like the next higher DOR but with the ability to save the car of the lower DOR. Sensitivity 3 is equivalent to jumping 2 DOR settings, so DOR 270 with sensitivity 3 is like DOR 540 around center. Things start getting weird when you start going to high sensitivity with low DOR because the non-linearity gets too be too much and completely messes up the forces. I remember one setting that had zero force +/- 45 deg and you could feel it kick in VERY strong once you hit it.

Now for force - The wheel doesn't create force, YOU DO. The force is created when you counter the wheel that is trying to turn the wrong way. High ffb setting just mean the wheel will turn more so you have to apply more force to put it back to where it belongs. If you don't hold the wheel steady it will move no different than if you intentionally moved it. That is why the ffb setting is personal. I have a light touch so anything over 40 and I either don't resist enough or counter too much. Depending on the car and strength of the ffb, this situation can become unstable and divergent. The ffb signal turns the wheel which then makes the car turn the other way which then creates a stronger ffb signal going the other direction and a spin out is imminent. I find that they are either filtering some of that out in Forza 6 or the physics of the car are just less susceptible to the instability. Go take a stock suspension 64 Impala around Daytona and you can feel the wheel rock back an forth all the way around the banking. Regardless I am happy because now I can run ffb 40 instead of a practically non extent 20 with Forza 5. If you have a death grip on the wheel you damp the osculation and can get away with 100 ffb, you may even prefer it. If you drive with two fingers anything over 10 will probably drive the car unstable. Find your ffb setting, get a car that handles well, and don't over drive it. It really can be quite enjoyable when it all works out but man can it be frustrating when it doesn't.

Crash
Rank: A-Class Racing License
#21 Posted : Sunday, September 13, 2015 5:14:56 PM(UTC)
Crash, Very informative post thank you!

Edited by user Sunday, September 13, 2015 5:24:47 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Rank: C-Class Racing License
#22 Posted : Sunday, September 13, 2015 5:22:48 PM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: crash220 Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: IR STiGGLES Go to Quoted Post
Sorry you are having issues, I think the wheel feels pretty good ( not pcars good with proper jack spade settings but at least as good as pcars with stock settings ).


My thoughts exactly. I just wish we could properly adjust steering ratio and let the DOR fall out to what ever it ends up being based on the cars total steering geometry. Then it would be easy to go from the street cars to the race cars. Instead of guessing that the F1 car has half the steering lock so it needs half the DOR to get the same steering gain (ratio of wheel turn to turn rate) you could just set the steering ratio on the same page you set the caster for the car.

540 DOR with sensitivity 2 is equivalent to 900 DOR for small +/- 20 deg turns of the wheel. I mapped it out and 360 with sensitivity 3 is also the same with the same steering gain around center. The best I can tell, sensitivity is simply how linear the wheel is. Default is linear (1 to 1) so with DOR 900 one degree of TX steering wheel is 1/450th of total angle on the the car. With a DOR of 540 and sensitivity 2 one degree of TX steering wheel is different depending on where the wheel is. Around center with 540 DOR and default sensitivity a one degree turn of the wheel would be 1/270th of total. But with sensitivity 2 it is more like 900 DOR at 1/450th around center and 1/360th as you approach the stop at 270 degrees of rotation.

This is why I run DOR 540 sensitivity 2. It gives me the precision around center like 900 DOR to make very small inputs but also gives me the quickness of 360 DOR at large deflections so I can catch the car with counter steer. You also don't need to go hand over hand to get full input. It only takes 270 deg vice 450 deg of rotation to get full input.

Basically sensitivity 2 drives like the next higher DOR but with the ability to save the car of the lower DOR. Sensitivity 3 is equivalent to jumping 2 DOR settings, so DOR 270 with sensitivity 3 is like DOR 540 around center. Things start getting weird when you start going to high sensitivity with low DOR because the non-linearity gets too be too much and completely messes up the forces. I remember one setting that had zero force +/- 45 deg and you could feel it kick in VERY strong once you hit it.

Now for force - The wheel doesn't create force, YOU DO. The force is created when you counter the wheel that is trying to turn the wrong way. High ffb setting just mean the wheel will turn more so you have to apply more force to put it back to where it belongs. If you don't hold the wheel steady it will move no different than if you intentionally moved it. That is why the ffb setting is personal. I have a light touch so anything over 40 and I either don't resist enough or counter too much. Depending on the car and strength of the ffb, this situation can become unstable and divergent. The ffb signal turns the wheel which then makes the car turn the other way which then creates a stronger ffb signal going the other direction and a spin out is imminent. I find that they are either filtering some of that out in Forza 6 or the physics of the car are just less susceptible to the instability. Go take a stock suspension 64 Impala around Daytona and you can feel the wheel rock back an forth all the way around the banking. Regardless I am happy because now I can run ffb 40 instead of a practically non extent 20 with Forza 5. If you have a death grip on the wheel you damp the osculation and can get away with 100 ffb, you may even prefer it. If you drive with two fingers anything over 10 will probably drive the car unstable. Find your ffb setting, get a car that handles well, and don't over drive it. It really can be quite enjoyable when it all works out but man can it be frustrating when it doesn't.

Crash

Well written
Rank: Racing Permit
#23 Posted : Sunday, September 13, 2015 5:44:34 PM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: HLR Leceur Go to Quoted Post
As like a lot of people I was not happy with TX wheel and Forza 6. So I went searching on the internet, changing settings and testing and finally found the perfect setup (for myself). Hope this helps other people also. I now REALLY enjoy the wheel with Forza 6, and can drive the cars to the limit. I can recover from potential skidding, catching the back on time and really drive fast, all with great FFB!
I now even drive with all assists off, something I couldn't do before! So far I have not tested this on the supercars and really fast cars.

In game settings:
-In the wheel settings I have selected Layout 1, Rumble=On, rest of the settings off.
-In the advanced wheel settings I have:
Steering Axis Deadzone Inside: 0
Steering Axis Deadzone Outside: 100
Acceleration Axis Deadzone Inside: 14
Acceleration Axis Deadzone Outside: 100
Deceleration Axis Deadzone Inside: 15
Deceleration Axis Deadzone Outside: 100
Clutch Axis Deadzone Inside: 0
Clutch Axis Deadzone Outside: 100
Handbrake Axis Deadzone Inside: 10
Handbrake Axis Deadzone Outside: 100
Vibration Scale: 100
Force Feedback Scale: 100 (I like this but can be reduced if you feel it is to heavy)
Wheel Rotation Angle: 540

Setting up the TX wheel
-You can set the sensitivty of the wheel by using the MODE button and the Right Shifter Paddle.
Set this to 2 green lights flashing by pressing Mode + Right Shifter Paddle untill it flashes green twice.
-As I use the manual clutch and don't have a clutch pedal, when going racing I press MODE + A to set the wheel to auto-clutch. Remember to turn this off (MODE + A again) in the menu's.

Hope this helps people, let me know.


What do you mean by sensitivity of the wheel with the MODE button? Also I am having issues with basic control with the wheel, it slips way to much and over steers. I went to my Thrustmaster Tx control panel to make sure everything was at default before I jumped into the game. I don't drive with assists on, and I do not have a clutch. But I have the TH8A shifter. Could you give me some basic pointers for set ups from the game to adjustments in the control panel. Please someone help!
Rank: C-Class Racing License
#24 Posted : Sunday, September 13, 2015 5:50:15 PM(UTC)
Go to thrustmaster web site to read about sensitivity
http://ts.thrustmaster.com/faqs/eng/thr_eng_00152.pdf
Rank: A-Class Racing License
#25 Posted : Sunday, September 13, 2015 11:17:18 PM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: SkyGodHORUS Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: PPiDrive Go to Quoted Post
Does the Auto-Clutch feature on the wheel mean you can set the game to Manual w/ Clutch and then don't have to use a clutch on the wheel? That alone would make me consider purchasing it a lot sooner.


Yes, but I believe it's only the Thrustmaster TX that has this feature right now. It engages the clutch when you depress the paddle shifter.


Correct TX only and that's why you have to turn it off in the menu's as when you press the right shift to go through the options, it will also press A and hence enter that menu.

It takes 8,460 bolts to assemble an automobile, and one nut to scatter it all over the road.

My Forza 6 paints
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