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The 1966 Chevrolet Nova SS is a good starters car to practice basic tuning. I`ll give my setup as a template, no copyright. Moore tunes will follow, different car-types like rear-engined, FWD or 4WD. Notice that these basics can moore or less work on other simular cars, the 66 Nova-setup is a base for most front-engine RWD cars even if spings/dampers needs to be adjusted for heavier cars.

Ok, the 66 Nova. To do a tune you`ll need a racesuspension, adjustable ARB`s(antirollbars) a sport- or racegearbox and sport/race differencial. ARB`s needs to be stiffened when you improve tiregrip, to handle the g-force.

Gears: Maxed V10T: 3.0 - 2.50/1.75/1.25/1.00/0.85/0.75
Maxed stock V8: 3.0 - 2.70/1.89/1.49/1.10/0.92/0.80
Allignement: 1.2/0.8 - 0.0/0.0 - 5.5 (this is a good basic setup for most front-engined cars, use telemetry to finetune)
ARB: 20.0/20.0 (was 22.5, softened to make the Nova "come alive")
Springs: 60.0/60.0
Rideheight: F22.4 - R15.2
Dampers: Rebound: F14.5/R14.5
Bump F4.8/R4.8
Brakes: no adjustment
Differencial*: 55/50 - or when AWD`ed; 0.0/0.0 - 55/50 - 100=100%RWD Notice how much better grip a 100% RWD or FWD car has when "AWD`ed". Strange physics they`ve made.

This setup runs good with both a maxed (incl. turbo) stock V8 or a maxed V10. Might be a bit wild/soft with a maxed V12.

Hope I haven`t forgotten anything, just ask if..

Next, playin`with a 1983 VW Golf GTI

Two versions, first has a maxed stock engine. Added everything exept no oilcooling & sport flywheel to keep it inside A800. Sport brakes, sport chassie improvment(stabilizers) race weight.
Street tires, F215, R235. Converted to AWD and then set to 0%=100%FWD

Gears: 3.75 - 2.89/1.99/1.49/1.16/0.94/0.80
Allignement: F 1.2/ R.08 - 0.0/0.0 - 5.5
ARB: F22.5 R22.5
Springs: F45.0 R45.0
Height: F22.5 R21.5
Dampers: F4.9/14.5 R4.9/14.5
Aero: F80 R150
Diff: (AWD) 55/0 0.0/0.0 0%=100%FWD


Put in a maxed rally-engine and the rabbit really runs. Everything maxed, race tires. Still F215 R235 to balance the car. Needs some small adjustmensts:

Gears: 3.30 - 2.89/1.99/1.49/1.16/0.94/0.80
Allignement: F 1.2/ R.08 - 0.0/0.0 - 5.5
ARB: F31.0 R33.5
Springs: F42.0 R41.0
Height: F21.0 R20.0
Dampers: F45.2/14.8 R5.2/14.8
Aero: F80 R180
Diff: (AWD) 55/0 55.0/55.0 80% (to the rar tires)

Edited by user Saturday, February 20, 2021 10:04:17 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

The Corvette C8, hotted stock engine first.
Basicly, this setup will fit most rear engine cars*, only springs/rideheight might need adjustments.


Gear: 3.08 rear, 2.70/1.85/1.40/1.10/0.90/0.76
Allign 1.2/0.8 0.0/0.0 5.5
ARB 38.0/40.0 (40/44 with race v12)
Springs 65.0/72.0
Damping F4.8/14.0, R5.0/14.8
No aero (race version=F145 R130)
Brakes not adjusted
Diff F: 0/0 - R: 55/50 - 100% rear, F55% + 65-82% rear makes a good 4WD

Racetires maxed, track widt maxed F/R


* like f.ex Porsche`s, Toyota MR2..

Edited by user Saturday, February 20, 2021 10:05:38 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

How to make the 1965 Mini Cooper run, a D-class first.

D tune: Engine: sport exhaust, street engineblock, race compression. Race suspension & F/R ARB`s, sport weightreduction, sport transmission, sportsdifferencial. Vintage racetires, F:185, R:225
Weld Racing wheels does it!

Gears: 3.43
ARB: F:8.02, R:7.98
Springs: F:38 R:36
Height F:13.3 R: 13.0
Dampers: F: 4.2/8.4 R: 3.9/8.4
Diff: 55%

C tune, same setup but use widebody kit: Engine: Race carburetor, race exhaust, sport cam, race compression(103Kw) Race suspension & F/R ARB`s, sport weightreduction, sport transmission, sportsdifferencial. Vintage racetires, F:235, R:245.

Maxed turbo stock engine (S825): Turbo, AWD, widebody, removed bumpers, racetires F:235/R:245. race transmission, clutch, driveline & diff. Engine maxed exept sport oilcoolel, no intercooler.

Gears: 3.30 275/185/135/105/90/80
ARB F:9.02 R: 7.98
Springs F:30 R: 28
Height 12/12
Dampers 4.4/14.0 4.2/14.0
Diff: 55/0 0/0 0 = 100% FWD


My JanSpeed design fits good

Edited by user Saturday, February 20, 2021 10:06:05 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

1982 Porsche 911T S1 grip tune

is a cheap plain Porsche with a potential. Swap to AWD, add another turbo (!) and convert it to a widebody.
Then give it racetires, maximun widt front/rear and I ended up with BBS-wheels to match the PI.

Race gearbox, race diff, race brakes, suspension, ARB`s & raceweight.

The engine: Race airfilter, exhaust, cam, valves, block, compression & turbo. Sport flywheel. This should give 433KW & 1095kg.

(( Alternative: 3.6F6TT engine, give it race exhaust, race block, sport turbo and you have 451Kw-1113kg. Reduce to sportbrakes to end up at S900 ))

Gears: 3.85 - 2.99/1.99/1.49/1.16/0.94/0.80 (3.30 if 3.6F6TT)
ARB: F: 28.36, R: 32.83
Springs: F:45.0 R:55.0
Height: F:19.2 R:18.2
Dampers: F:4.8/12.0 R:5.2/14.5
Aero: F:100 R:190
Differencial: 55/0 - 56/50 - 55%

Doing this will give you a tamed racer!

Edited by user Saturday, February 20, 2021 10:06:31 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

1997 Nissan GTR V-spec S1-tune

Maxed stock engine exept for sport ignition & flywheel. Stock brakes, race suspension & ARB`s. Race weight, sport clutch, race tranny, stock driveline, race diff. Race tires max width. Wings F & R.
This should give you 496Kw & 1247 kilo.

Gears: 4.20 - 2.89/1.99/1.49/116/94/78
Allignement: F:1.2 R:0.8 0/0 5.5
ARB: F:33.47 R:38.07
Springs: F:52.0 R:50.8
Height: F:16.1 R:15.8
Dampers: F:4.8/14.4 R:4.8/14.4
Aero: F:100 R:190
Diff: 55/0 56/50 60%

I ended up driving it around the whole map, enjoying the balanced racer. Another drivers tune!

Edited by user Saturday, February 20, 2021 10:07:02 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Taming the wild Morris Minor - a good & realistic C-class tune. No wings or awd here, just removed bumpers 8-)

Add turbo, racetires, F:185/R:195 Mickey Thomson ET drag wheels is a good match. Remove bumpers. Sport gearbox, sport diff. And off course, race suspension & ARB`s.

Engine: Sport air, race carburetor, race ignition, street cam, race valves/block/comp/turbo/intercooler, sport oilcooler, street flywheel. Adds up to 122Kw or 163hp.

Gears: 3.43
Allignement: F:1.2 R: 0.8 0/0 5.5
ARB: F: 7.71 R: 7.24
Springs: F: 45.0 R: 45.0
Height: F: 23.5 R: 22.2
Dampers: F: 4.8/8.4 R: 4.8/8.4
Diff: 55%

This is a "drivers setup" with good realistic handling. It can win races too but rwd`s has allmost no grip in tgis game so here`s a AWD-setup:

Race gearbox, set to 3.30. Race diff set to 0/0 55/50 100 =100% RWD
Reduce engine by adding sport airfilter & sport exhaust.

Even if the car is heavier now, is still RWD and has a bit less power it will be a lot easier to win races in. But nearly not as fun to drive as the RWD-setup ;)

Edited by user Saturday, January 23, 2021 5:44:02 AM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Class C 1963 Opel Kadett Rallye

Played with this tiny Opel to se what it could do as a class C racer. Ended up beeing wery funny little racer, perfect on closer tracks but not a top-speed champ.

To get some grip I converted it to AWD but running it as 100% RWD. Added turbo, vintage racing-tires, Mickey Thomson ET Drag wheels fits the old Opel perfect.
Track-widt widened step 1 F & R. Tirewidth F:165 , R:185 gives good balance & turn-in.

Race clutch+gearbox & differential, Rallye suspension, race ARB`s F & R. Street chassis & street weight. = 1607Lb, 729kg

Engine: Street intake, sport carb, race ignition, race exhaust. Stock cam,race valves, race block, race compression, race turbo, race intercooler, stock oilcooler, sport flywheel. = 152hp

Gears: 3.75 - 2.85/1.89/1.34/1.00/0.82/0.72
Allign: (as usual) F:1.2 R:0.8 0.0/0.0 5.5
ARB: F: 8.84 R: 8.00
Springs: F: 90.3 R: 90.3
Height: F:10.3 R: 10.3
Dampers: F: 4.0/6.8 R: 4.0/6.8 (bump/rebound)
Brakes stock
Differential: 0/0 55/45 100% rear = RWD but with reasonable grip

The setup is soft and will do well in rallying as well. Adjust the diff and it is an AWD. Feels like riding a hotted-up stock old car, you`ll get sea-sick in the back-seat but it handles wery well.

To SumoElch7625477 and whoever might want some A-class JDM racers


1997 Nissan Skyline GT-R V-SPEC: 641 613 658

As usual from me, kind of an all-round circuit-tune but this can be raced. Hard! One of my test is a speed-zone and this one has the record(so far). Notice how I set up the gearbox.
4th-5th-6th gears comes close to make them usable in hot racing. I`m using a controller & manual w.o clutch. When I`m approaching a bend at 6th gear, instead of braking I`ll just shift down to 5th.
That`s enough to get the weight moved forward in a well balanced setup

1992 Honda NSX-R : 760 082 419
widebody: 259 701 953


1993 Nissan Skyline GT-R V-SPEC : 390 062 571 (wide)

1997 Mazda RX7 widebody: 113 200 864

1998 Toyota Supra RZ: 176 672 120 or 117 877 758

1995 Toyota MR2 : 124 088 177

Some racetunes, first the

1990 Chevrolet Camaro Iroc A-tune. Stock engine, AWD`ed but set to 100%RWD.

Camaro code: 109 401 546

1970 Buick GSX S1-tune. Stock engine, AWD`ed to ca90%RWD.

Buick code: 507 167 106

Playground thinks that the "big block" Buick engine are about 200kg heavier than
the Chevy 6.2L but they are so wrong again. Buick, as well as Oldsmobile and Pontiac`s
455cui engine are about the same weight as a small block Chevy. And same size.

Classic sportscar Class D easy win; 1958 Austin Sprite: 122 476 670

- updated, final version now??

Edited by user Thursday, February 18, 2021 7:46:58 AM(UTC)  | Reason: refined tune

🚦 please continue 👍🏼

Thanks! I`m having fun with classic musclecar-tunes these days, working on a B700 heat. Trying to give them a kind of "realistic" handling, like a worn
weekend-warrior would handle after some tuning & upgrades. vintage tires, max 245/295, no weight reduction.

Lots of work behind this kind of tunes, every parameter plays a part in the final result. A bit too much bodyroll could be eliminated by increasing the swaybar a
notch, but that might make the front end to understeer or the rear to slide insteasd of leaning & gripping. Tiregrip, bodyroll, ARB`s, springs & shocks (dampers)
must be harmoniced.

Testdriving the tunes around the Goliath against the not so unbeatables. Even if these old classics is a handful to drive they`re surpricingly fast arond the map.

Finished so far:

1964 Checrolet Impala code: 727 406 754 (try it!)

- updated Impala, now we`re talkin: 136 090 091

1970 AMC Rebel code: 135 384 236

1965 Pontiac GTO code: 260 695 059

Try them & have fun!

Edited by user Wednesday, April 7, 2021 4:47:24 AM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Adding a few moore musclecars! Despite their bodyroll & soft suspension they`re still pretty fast
Have added a front spoiler on some of these, just for the right look. It is turned down to minimum..

1970 Buick GSX code: 159 733 090

1969 Oldsmobile 442 code: 133 483 633

1970 Mercury Cougar code: 133 667 142

1970 Chevrolet Chevelle code: 136 487 696

These are not ment to be compatible but they still are, almost..

1957 Plymouth Belvedere code: 801 766 092

1952 Hudson Hornet code: 471 619 459

The Huson is given a transmission based on Ford`s C4 automat+a 0.80 overdrive
That`s 2.48/1.48/1.00/0.80 and a 3.0 rear. It doesn`t really need the overdrive to reach it`s top speed
but it just feels right to cruise this tourque-engine on low revs. A close-ratio 6 speed here would kill the "feeling"

Any kind of feedback is welcome! Any requests?

Belvedere?

Never was much of a 'car person' (at least not until FH3) and originally I gravatated to modern saloons, sports cars, etc, basically contemporary vehicles... and detested anything old and boxy (think: '67 Ford Falcon XR GT), dismissing such as dull and archaic. It wasn't long, however, before muscle car/70's/80's nostalgia started kicking thanks to FH3's AMC Pacer X barn find and now that's largely all that I am interested in! Classic-anything, 60's-80's, the lower the PI class, the better. I would happily trade in 15 of my S2 StarTrek cars for that old, boxy Falcon; 20 to get my un-boxy Pacer back! I'd also like to see a few more smaller, mid-size muscle cars introduced like the Chevy Vega and Ford Mustang II King Cobra (or re-introduced, rather) to compliment the Holden Torano and AMC Hornet.

So, I do appreciate the sharing of your work, very much so. I haven't gotten around to trying any yet, but those D-class tunes will be first in line. (AMC fan, too, so any AMC tinkering in any class gets extra appreciation 👌🏻)

I really like your tunes, I’m using them and your tips to get the hang of it myself.

I tried the Chevelle and it drove quite nice indeed!

Currently I’m trying to make the Alpine A110 work as a b-class rally racer but I can’t get it right somehow, maybe you can take a look at it?

Those B-class classic muscle setups in post 13 & 14 are what I call roadkill-tunes. Not tuned for max
performance but for fun. But they are surpricingly fast too, the unbeatables are easily beaten arond the
Goliath. The 70 Chevelle that usually handled like a cheese is kind of hot in this version. Even the
64 Impala can do turns with a well balanced setup.

These kind of setups is in another league than anything made by tunecalculators. There is no way to
calculate a precise tune, calculations will be way too unprecise. These old cars are tuned to a level of
precision where I do not want to stop driving them, they feels so right that I could drive around for hours.

Not too easy to come up with anything "good enough" for the 1973 Alpine 110 in B-class. Easy in
C & A-class but not in B. Here is what I came up with.

First, has to be AWD`ed in this game. Then turboed. 14" rear wheels (stock) vintage racetires, 195/215.
Bumpers removed, sport rear wing. Rally suspension, race ARB`s.
Engine block maxed, compression too. Street intercooler & oilcooler, sport flywheel. Light flywheel +
fast clutch combined with a close ratio gearbox is a good way to compensate a weak engine.
And a must in rally.

This should give 150KW & 767Kg.
Gear ratio 4.20, ARB`s 18.56/22.01, springs 32/42, height 13.8/13.3. Dampers F:3.0/12.0, R: 5.4/14.5.
Diff: F: 55/0 R: 55/50 C(enter): 58

While I`m on it, my C-class setup:
165/195 vintage race tires, rally suspension, race ARB`s, race diff. sport valves-compression.
ARB`s 8.40/8.41, springs 30/32, height 14.0/13.7, dampers F:3.6/6.6 R: 4.0/7.6. Diff 55/50.

Codes: C: 565 876 891 B: 169 085 479 A: 172 550 118

And my 2015 A110 A-class road setup. Just slammed this together to try out the car,
one small adjustment and we have a racewinner: Code 559 934 013

Edited by user Friday, March 19, 2021 8:01:02 AM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

2002 Nissan Gt-R V-SPEC II A-class roadracer

Did just a quick tune for this one to fit the weekly challenge but it turned out to be so much fun to drive
and so capable too that I`ll chare it. Ended up with two versions, one in raceweight that might be the best
allrounder but the one in sportsweight still handles well and outspeeds most other driveable A-class cars.


Mods: Forza F & R wings, Work XD9 wheels; 19" rear. Stock tires, 285 F & R. Race tranny & diff, race
suspension & ARB`s + Race weight, ca 1240kg

Race exhaust, sport cam, race block, sport flywheel (=quick engine resonse to fit a quick gearbox)
=337kw 491nm
Steet cam, race block+sport turbo & flywheel = 350kw & 539nm

Settings:

Gears 4.60 - 289/199/149/116/095/082 -notice how I`m closing in a bit on 5th & 6th
Allignement: 1.2/0.8-0/0-5.5
ARB`s: 22-0/22.0
Springs set to minimum, 52.5 F & R
Height F:19.8 R: 19.5
Aero: 100/130
Diff: 55/0-55/50-55

The key to everything here is the suspension, tires, aero & diff-settings. It gives the car a good
balance & makes it very responsive.

The heavier sportsweight version ends up ca.200kg heavier but has a bit more power.

My first version: street intake,sport exhaust, sport cam, race block, sport turbo &/ sport flywheel.
= 397kw & 579nm to move 1429kg. The sportscam gives the engine a long powerband.

Second version, focused 100% on tourque here = acceration.
street intake, race fuelsystem, race block, race comp, race turbo, street flywheel.
399kw & 651nm now, but it feels a bit moore sluggish since the heavier flywheel reduces enegineresponse.
Gears was set to 3.43 rear, opened 5th & 6th to stock 0.94 & 0.78 = 297km

While this soft setup fits the stock tires a morre grippy & powerful S1-tune will need to be a bit stiffer.
Just that is what tuning is about, to try out and learn what it takes with different cars. But the lower classes
is the place to start.

Edited by user Monday, March 22, 2021 7:40:26 AM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Just wathced grandma/ISAD race a 2001 acura Integra A-class setup and got inspiration.
Hotted up my own b-class tune and ended up with this: 827 959 612
A bit better than the tune ISAD raced., try and compare!

Basicly the same as I did with the Golf GTI over..

Edit:
Oops, it has a rear wing. Stock wing: 487 957 511, not even a stock wing: 512 382 340. Still surpricingly stabile these!

Edited by user Tuesday, March 30, 2021 9:47:09 AM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Playing with the 2000 Nissan Silvia spec-R

First, a simple RWD A-tune based on stock engine.
Gave it a Ings front, West wing, West rear & Nismo sideskirts.

Stock tires maxed F/R, step 1 widened, the "last" Work-wheels.
Racing gear+diff, sport driveline. Rally suspension (lighweight car=soft setup) Race ARB`s, sport weight

Engine: Race air, fuel, exhaust, block, compression & turbo. Sport ignition & flywheel
= 329Kw, 486Nm, 1118kg

This gives good tourque but a rather narrow powerband, a good match to the quick-shifting 6sp gearbox.
And the sport flywheel makes the engine fast revving & responsive to match up.

Setup: gears 3.55, first is "opened" to 2.89*, 6th is shortened to 0.80. * to reduce takeoff-wheelspin
ARB`s 14.40 F/R, springs 22.9 F/R, rideheight F: 19.8, R: 19.5. Dampers F: 3.8/9.0, R: 3.9/9.0. Diff: 56/50

This is a good basic setup, the soft suspension matches the light car & the tiregrip.

---

S1-Widebody racetune

First; 3.2L I6 engine, turbo, AWD, bodykit. I gave it a West-wing and some OZ-wheels.
Racetires maxed F & R. Race gearbox, driveline & diff. Street brakes (lightweight car)
Race suspension & ARB`s, raceweight reduction.

Engine: Race "everything" exept sport cam & flywheel, stock coolers
= 475Kw, 660Nm,1059kg.

Setup: gears 3.75, 2.89 1st, 0.80 6th. ARB`s 30.0 F & R, springs 52/50, rideheight
17.1 F & R. Dampers 4.8/14.0 F & R. Diff 55/0, 55/50, 55

Simple as that. Soft enough to make it handle but still in control, even in +300km/h
A stiffer setup will understeer & mask most of the "information" from the road.

The diff-setting makes it a "full AWD", the frontwheels will pull it through the
corners. More power to the rear & it will handle more like a RWD.