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Rank: Racing Permit
#26 Posted : Tuesday, October 9, 2018 7:30:40 AM(UTC)
As per the other thread, same issue here witha G920 on PC, submitted a ticket and just got back a suggesting to update my drivers. Really?!
Rank: Driver's Permit
#27 Posted : Wednesday, October 10, 2018 12:05:16 AM(UTC)
So i got a reply on my ticket from Nitro Glitter. First they told me to update my drivers and firmware which i already did. Then she told me to read the Wheel Users guide here:

https://support.forzamot...5348-Wheel-User-s-Guide

I REALLY ADVISE you guys do the same, it does explain ALOT. But the TLDR version is that the wheels settings does not affect the handling of the cars ingame, only the way it feels. It basically says that you have to tune your car to make it drive different, for example if you don't want it to oversteer on an apex

" In short, is your car too oversteery when you lift the throttle? Raise the differential deceleration; is your car too oversteery at apex and exit of corner? Stiffen your front spring or antiroll bar or both. And so on…"

it also says:

"Playground is working on adding more range for tuning, together with better FFB pre-sets on Logitech G920 and G29 (reducing damper for these wheels specifically), in addition to addressing known wheel issues as listed on the support site, and responding to valuable feedback from the community."

But this basically means i have to tune every car that spins out, oversteers etc. which was never needed in FH2 & 3 or FM7 or any other racing game i've played just to be able to drive it.

From the various settings suggested by other users on the Forza forums these are the ones i've found work the best right now:

steering axis deadzone inside: 10

steering axis deadzone outside: 20

steering linearity: 52

vibration scale: 25

FF scale: 25

Center spring scale: 100

Wheel damper scale: 100

FF understeer: 50

FF minimum force: 50

Wheel rotation angle: 540

everything else is on default

These i've found help a bit, but i still spin out in some cars.
Rank: Driver's License
#28 Posted : Wednesday, October 10, 2018 4:24:02 AM(UTC)
I have the same problem I did adjust the setting and it help a bit but there is something wrong, I can't push the cars to much it spins out to easy and you cant regain control .
Rank: Driver's Permit
#29 Posted : Wednesday, October 10, 2018 5:49:38 AM(UTC)
I have a G27, and I've tried nearly every piece of advice available online. No dice. So I opened a ticket & was also referred to the Wheel Setup Guide referenced above.

I sincerely think the core problem isn't "every car needs to be individually adjusted." We have a substantial amount of people on this forum noticing something inherently wrong - the kind of thing I never experienced in the other racing games I play. (I'll add The Crew & Wreckfest to the list of "Games That Don't Feel Like This.")

I've asked for Nitro Glitter to post an example of controller settings, or car settings, play testers have used that they felt to be satisfactory. We'll see if that gets resolution.

But yeah- tl;dr, I think that anyone using a G27 in this game is not having a good time right now.

Edited by user Wednesday, October 10, 2018 7:16:21 AM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Rank: Driver's License
#30 Posted : Thursday, October 11, 2018 7:22:15 AM(UTC)
If someone has G27 and wants to drift these are my settings so far and the wheel feels nice... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=80_hJ06hPNY
* FFB: 70 - 85 (depending the car)
Rank: Driver's Permit
 1 user liked this post.
#31 Posted : Thursday, October 11, 2018 8:32:25 AM(UTC)
G920 user on Xbox one here, the game is pretty much unplayable with it due to some severe bugs in the controller settings.

In a nutshell, the deadzones for accelerator, brake and clutch pedals don't work at all - any setting in the game makes no difference whatsoever.

As a result, both the accelerator and clutch pedals are limited to something like 97% when they reach the stop (THIS is the REAL cause of the "crunch" sound when changing gears - the game registers the clutch as not being fully depressed); Any reasonable amount of pressure on the brakes pedal results into a registered value of 50-60% - I can reach 100% by pressing down so hard that I have to pull on the wheel to keep the whole Wheel Stand Pro it's mounted on from sliding away.

I had noticed the twitchiness in the steering, but had pinned it down to a slightly different driving model than I was used to - I had no problem in FH3 (nor in FM6, 7 or F1 2018).

Rank: Driver's Permit
#32 Posted : Friday, October 12, 2018 12:22:31 PM(UTC)
I race with my G29 no assists, it was difficult to use at first but as soon as you turn off "Vibration" under wheel settings the game get's 100x more drivable.
Default settings with slightly lower damper and vibration off work really well for me, even drifting I can just let the wheel go and catch it during the slide.
Rank: Driver's Permit
#33 Posted : Friday, October 12, 2018 12:45:35 PM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: h3llr4iser80 Go to Quoted Post
G920 user on Xbox one here, the game is pretty much unplayable with it due to some severe bugs in the controller settings.

In a nutshell, the deadzones for accelerator, brake and clutch pedals don't work at all - any setting in the game makes no difference whatsoever.

As a result, both the accelerator and clutch pedals are limited to something like 97% when they reach the stop (THIS is the REAL cause of the "crunch" sound when changing gears - the game registers the clutch as not being fully depressed); Any reasonable amount of pressure on the brakes pedal results into a registered value of 50-60% - I can reach 100% by pressing down so hard that I have to pull on the wheel to keep the whole Wheel Stand Pro it's mounted on from sliding away.

I had noticed the twitchiness in the steering, but had pinned it down to a slightly different driving model than I was used to - I had no problem in FH3 (nor in FM6, 7 or F1 2018).



Hi, I am also using the g920 on Xbox one but I do not experience these problems. However I have noticed that changing th deceleration outside deadzone seems to have no effect. Indeed you have to depress the brake pedal all the way to get 100 % braking power according to the telemetry hud view. But I do get to 100%. In my other racing games this is more or less the same (except the deadzone settings). I have some anti skid rubber things under my rig to keep it from be pushed away when braking/accelerating.
Rank: Racing Permit
#34 Posted : Friday, October 12, 2018 12:51:32 PM(UTC)
I use a G27 and haven't had these issues, pretty sure my wheel is set to the stock settings as well. Double check the logitech software and make sure you have 900 degrees of rotation enabled. When I played FH3 that setting got changed to 200 degrees at one point and made it nearly impossible to drive.
Rank: Driver's Permit
#35 Posted : Friday, October 12, 2018 1:43:13 PM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: h3llr4iser80 Go to Quoted Post
G920 user on Xbox one here, the game is pretty much unplayable with it due to some severe bugs in the controller settings.

In a nutshell, the deadzones for accelerator, brake and clutch pedals don't work at all - any setting in the game makes no difference whatsoever.

As a result, both the accelerator and clutch pedals are limited to something like 97% when they reach the stop (THIS is the REAL cause of the "crunch" sound when changing gears - the game registers the clutch as not being fully depressed); Any reasonable amount of pressure on the brakes pedal results into a registered value of 50-60% - I can reach 100% by pressing down so hard that I have to pull on the wheel to keep the whole Wheel Stand Pro it's mounted on from sliding away.

I had noticed the twitchiness in the steering, but had pinned it down to a slightly different driving model than I was used to - I had no problem in FH3 (nor in FM6, 7 or F1 2018).



I have a G920 and using it on the xbox. I have noticed as well that if I do a nice from push on the break I only get about 50 - 60% breaking power I really have to stand on the break to fully break. I feel that I am going to break the pedal pressing it so hard.
As for steering I got the wheel mostly tuned for my driving but I do spin out a lot if I'm not careful. I noticed that if I can catch the when the car is about to loose it soon enough I can slam on the breaks and bring it back under control but if it is an off road race I have been known to just do donuts trying to get the car under control.
Rank: Driver's Permit
#36 Posted : Monday, October 15, 2018 7:31:48 PM(UTC)
I've tried to find some answers for steering with the G27, but I'm just going to say there's not. Driving is consistently frustrating and nothing like any other racing game I've played.

Edited by user Wednesday, October 17, 2018 5:26:10 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Rank: Driver's License
#37 Posted : Friday, November 2, 2018 8:54:02 AM(UTC)
I also dislike using a wheel with the game. What do you think, will Playground Games patch the wheel controlment? How was it in FH3?
Rank: Driver's Permit
#38 Posted : Monday, November 12, 2018 12:48:07 PM(UTC)
I have a G27 wheel and when throwing it in to a drift there is no counter steer at all the wheel just stop and stay still until you stopped drifting. It was like this in FH3 also and i guess you guys dont care at all about PC G27 users. Until my wheel works in the demo there is no way ill trust you to fix it like you said 2 years ago...

I play alot of assetto corsa and the wheel works fine there. Also have 2 friends with the same wheel and they have the same issue so there is nothing wrong with my wheel or pc. Also the game crashes at the end of autumn only when playing with the wheel
Rank: B-Class Racing License
#39 Posted : Monday, November 12, 2018 3:19:04 PM(UTC)
I had no problem drifting with my T500RS. It feels like the physics are constantly fighting themselves. I usually play LFS, sometimes Assetto. Forza doesn't feel cohesive. Like the FFB isn't directly connected to the car. I spent a lot of time sawing the wheel back and forth. Wasn't worth it. Went back to DS4.
Rank: Driver's Permit
#40 Posted : Wednesday, April 17, 2019 8:17:24 PM(UTC)
i'm not sure if this has been addressed elsewhere.

I too was running into this problem with a fanatec csr wheel. It seems that since this thread was last updated 6 months ago they have added a setting in the advanced wheel customization page. it's at the very bottom and it's labeled as Steering sensitivity. This defaults to 50 which is probably what works with controllers. basically turn your wheel half way and it turns it all the way in effect amplifying your wheel inputs making it super hard to correct a spin. If you set this to 0 it seems to fix the problem.

Posting this here so people who find this thread via a google search can see the fix i found.
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