Wow Baby Cow, I didn’t know that. I guess that is the only good thing about my driving style, I charge hard into the corners so I’m always hitting the brakes hard. LOL I guess I just got lucky for that year I ran the Thrustmaster. I probably ran close enough that I just adjusted to what it had. Not great laptimes anyway as I’m not super fast. Now I have great equipment but still lack all the talent needed to be super fast but still have a blast trying.
I think I saw something about it on Inside Racing on YouTube…
In FM5 you had to press the brake all the way down each time you start to play. Just once and it worked, but must do it every time you start the game. Just did it before the lights went green the first race. Otherwise you’re locking brakes in the first corner, possibly later.
Not sure if this is the same for FM6. If it is, it really needs to be stated somewhere in the game.
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Question appears to be answered, but every time the wheel is plugged in it requires calibration. As many have said you calibrate just by pressing down on the pedal. It may only be the first press but i do 3 presses just to make sure. You should do this every time you start just to make sure and it can be done at any point after plugging the wheel in as its a thrustmaster internal calibration and has nothing to do with forza.
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Interesting because for five months of FM5 and project cars with the TX I have never consciously calibrated the pedals with no ill effects. Cold boot, plug in wheel (to the back not the side), mode+dpad left, mode+Rpaddle, mode+A, make sure you log in with the wheel and not the controller, hook the controller up via USB and plug in the mic, finally use the controller to go find a lobby and race.
Cold boot, plug in, 3 full presses of both pedals. Same car/tune/track. Watch telemetry FM5 brakes lock at 97%. FM6 brakes lock at 50%
Cold boot, plug in, 3 one third presses of the brake (estimated off the hud). Same car/tune/track. Watch telemetry FM5 brakes lock at 97%. FM6 brakes lock at 50%. Telemetry doesn’t read 100% until the brake is fully pressed. Now pulling my notes from last night and I was getting lock up at 25%. Although my test didn’t confirm the requirement I’ll be adding this to my startup routine since my notes seem to indicate that it randomly got me at least once. Turning down the brake pressure seems to fix the lock up and get it back in the 90s, the rest just seems like new physics that will take a while to readjust to.
Other observations - twice the wheel just stopped working and once while navigating the menus you could feel the wheel stiffen up and a quick check of the setting revealed it reverted to 100 ffb with default controller dead zones. Interesting that it wasn’t default for the wheel. I guessing there still may be a few bugs. With auto-clutch engaged the dpad will navigate some of the menus that normally require RB/LB, unfortunately it isn’t implemented 100% and some menus still require LB/RB.
Overall I believe FM6 is an improvement when it comes to the TX wheel, it is just unfortunate that we have proof that the TX wheel and xb1 are capable of more.
Crash
All I’ll say is thank you, this has worked a treat.
My problem is that: although in the settings there are 900 degrees, the wheel works like there are 360 degrees and I span in many occasion due to a massive overrsteer.
Someone has got the same problem?
I have installed the last firmware so I don’t think it’s this the problem.
Go to the settings menu and change the settings there to whatever dor you would like. The game overrides the settings on the wheel and by default the game plays at 540
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The only adjustment I made was to set my ffb to 75% that has helped steer out of a spin or at least give me a chance, my brakes work very well, I was realizing last night how good they felt compared to F5. I remember the days of putting two dollars at a time into arcade racers at the mall, I also remember playing Atari with pong, I just cant find anything to really complain about when it comes to the game or the wheel. I don’t have much experience, so I might just be content in my ignorance.
75%?
i think 100% is already waaaaaay to weak compared to FM5 with the TX
i cant drive any car in FM6 with my wheel without crashing/spining ALL THE TIME because i dont get a good feel for under/oversteer
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Understand at 100% that’s 100% of everything. The heavy vibrations and resistance are overpowering the subtle ones like loss of grip in the wheels.setting it closer to 50-60 should bring back better feel for you. You will loose some of the strength in resistance if you run off the road but ideally that won’t happen anyway. Play around some and find that sweet spot for you as it’s worth it in the long run. Also another thought there is in game FFB and wheel FFB just make sure the game is always at 100% and then back the wheel down till you hit the spot you like the best.
I have had some issues with the break lock up, but down shifting with the clutch and shifter locks up the wheels also, pretty badly really. This happens with about any technique I try, heel to toe, just blipping the throttle, doesn’t really matter how I try to avoid it. Also going Ito an event once in awhile the configuration gets all mixed up, view is from the side, throttle is reverse no matter what gear I’m in. This is usually fixed by a quick reboot, but it’s still a pain. The wheel does sem to be a bit more refined though over 5, and forget Horizon 2, it’s a vast improvement over it. But not as good as Project Cars still. And still no comparison as on PC.
No problem. Glad to help.
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My TX just doesn’t work at all. I jumped into FH2 and F5 to check it and it works there and I can browse Xbox menus just fine.
It’s like the game doesn’t recognize it at all.
Yes, it’s been updated to the firmware that was released in June. Hopefully this is fixed very soon.
Make sure you signed in to your xbox account with the wheel. Go to your name at the top of dashboard and click “choose this person” with the wheel.
I’ll be honest, I did not expect this to work. Thank you!
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Thank you for the brake calibration idea. I can’t wait to try that.
I was suffering from my car locking up and veering off to one side under relatively moderate braking.
I also have a new problem that I started another thread about : when running a 50 lap oval race, part way through, my screen goes so dark that i can’t tell where I’m going. After 10-15 seconds, it goes back to normal. This happened to me about 4 times out of the 5 50 lap ovals I ran.
It lost me some races, which was a bit frustrating.
Can anyone reproduce this issue?
Well I just lost over an hour troubleshooting a similar problem. For me it was the paddle sifters not chaining the gears and the menu button not working sometimes.
Check the button layout mine mysteriously switched to layout 4 when this was occurring. Switching back to layout 1 fixed it. After it was fixed layout 4 worked as designed. Definitely some sort of firmware/xb1 bug because when FM6 broke FM5 was also broke. No matter how many times I rebooted, unplugged everything, and reset the setting to default it remained broken and if you loaded FM6 first, FM5 demonstrated the same symptoms. If you cold booted and loaded FM5 everything worked as expected until you loaded FM6 then it broke and if you went back to FM5 it stayed broke until you rebooted. Changing the layout back to 1 was the only thing that fixed it for me. I was starting to get a little worried!
At the time of the incident I switched DOR from 540 to 900 via the game and when I went back to go race I was stuck in 1st gear.
On the bright side, I never tried layout 4 before. It gives you view mapping on the wheel and it might be worth turning off damage and banging the rev limiter to be able to check your blind spots. If you can keep up with the clutchers without wasting PI on a race clutch it might also be worth letting the game auto-clutch. They are paddle shifters after all but with the mode+A auto-clutch setting on the wheel you look back every time you shift!
Crash
Yeah mine did this once too.After one multiplayer race I stayed in lobby and started necpxt race only to find my paddle shifters did nothing and now the buttons were changing gears… Went back to settings and changed it and it didnt happen again but def something wrong there.
I own the Ferrari 458 spider thrustmaster without ffb. Could someone please tell me the best settings for it in the advanced settings for calibration?