Hi. The wheel is not working well. some button remaping occurs. gear up and down become handbrake and when you stop racing and go back to the menus and then back to racing again, the wheel stop working you even cannot accelerate or brake.
There´s no side views in the button maping. Really? Other forza blinded for cockpit camera steering wheel players
I’ve heard a lot of other people have been having problems with their wheel too, not just with button mapping but also with force feedback inconsistency and the brake pedal locking up the brakes with very little of it compressed.
Had last night all this issues you describe, so can confirm the brake locking, wheel not available in my case after being in the photomode and also no matter how the angle and sensitivity is set the cars i drove so far always tend to understeer like hell and if FM6 says its a sim, then i never would expect that a real life car will understeer that way when going 30mph in some curves :). Firmware installed on the wheel is the latest from june 2015.
So yeah, wheel and FFB implementation seems to be a bit neglected and i hope there will be an improvement of this as a wheel adds much more fun to the game
Wheels are crap for this game. I tried it yesterday. What’s with all the force feedback to center the wheel when standing still? How about comeb to a stop and put your shifter into neutral. Then pump the clutch. Makes a grinding noise. What the Heck? In neutral? Then it gets better, in neutral without using the clutch move the shifter into any gear. No crunch.
Game is broken for wheel users. Well serious wheel users. I found both these bugs within the first two minutes of game play. How long could this game be in development and I find these in the first two minutes? Where does turn tens R&D money go. Give me twenty bucks and I’ll find your flaws in two minutes.
I am using the TX Wheel and for me this is the best force feedback I have ever felt out of the box on a console game, ever. I did not even need to do any tweaking. The feedback it gives is amazing. You feel it when too hard on the brakes. You feel it when shifting gears, especially if you screw up the clutch. You feel it go light when you hydroplane over a puddle or crest the hill at Lime Rock and get a little airborne. You feel it in different track surfaces and curbs, and they don’t all feel the same. Each car has different FF feel as well. Driving the Hellcat around Road Atlanta was a completely different force feedback feel than say driving the Indycar. The Hellcat wanted to jump out of my hands. This is force feedback wheel implementation as it should be. I have not even tweaked a thing, just the default settings with the most updated firmware for the TX Wheel. Amazing job Turn 10, well done!
PS - I am not saying that the problems described above are not there, I am just not seeing them today for me. Normally, I am the guy that will have a problem that no one else is having. I spent over a month trying to tweak the wheel and force feedback settings in Project Cars and never got anything close to the feel I wanted. Meanwhile, there were plenty of people reporting it had the best wheel/FF ever.
I couldn’t disagree more. If I hadn’t played Project CARS I’d probably agree with you but having played CARS I’ve been spoiled by serious force feedback, not to mention better wheel control. Feedback here feels grossly lacking compared to CARS. As for steering, I only turn the wheel five or ten degrees for most corners, which feels all wrong. This is with default settings.
I completely agree. Using a wheel on Forza 6 just does not feel right compared to PCars. Just seems too much under steer on cars even when going slow. I go faster in my road car and don’t get under steer like this. The DOR just does not feel right for me ATM.
I have now removed the dead zones and changed the DOR to 540 and have also realised that it was the brakes locking causing the bad understeer. Tried the old Forza 5 trick of calibrating the pedals and so far it’s a vast improvement.
It also feels better using the Hood cam as opposed to cockpit view which is a shame as I do prefer the cockpit.
My wheel is a Fanatec in a rig with Fanatec V3 pedals and a shifter I use on occasion but not good at it. The wheel however is so AWESOME. I’m sure there are some technical issues with some but many of the problems are caused by not updating the firmware or setting problems whether in game or in wheel. I personally helped a long time Forza player find a new st of settings in the Thrustmaster wheel. The SENS adjustment like the auto clutch and DOR settings but different. Yes I had a Thrustmaster before I got my Fanatec wheel about a month ago.
Also with the argument as to who is better? Well both Project Cars and Forza have an idea / goal for what they feel is accurate and they work to get as close to that goal as they can. Their results may be slightly different but it is what they ( they being both parties ) believe is correct. Too much grip or too little they try to find that sweet spot. Everyone is looking for that perfect feel but most people have a different idea of what that is. If you like eating spicy food then you will know that there are many levels of hot peppers. Not everyone will pick the same level of hotness but they feel like their level is the correct one.both parties feel as if they have the right hotness and are sticking to what got them there. I was never able to find my sweet spot in a Project Cars as I am not very good at tuning of FFB settings myself. That does not mean it wasn’t there it just means I never found it. In Forza it’s so much easier find a tune, download it and drive it. I like it ( obsessive/ compulsive ) I like the fact that, both cater to a different types of racers, and it gives us options as racers to what we like the best. By having this more people will be happy as twice as many sweet spots offered between the 2 games.
The lockup people are referring to in braking is due to incorrect calibration of pedals. To calibrate pedals you need to press each pedal down 3 times to its maximum otherwise it is going to average your first 3 peddle input maximums as your maximum peddle press which may be very small input range.