Tire sounds and friction telemetry

Does anyone know what the ideal tire sounds are to have when tuning a car or am I just looking to have no noise at all, which ones are preferable over others? I think I know all the sounds when cornering…

You got the out right screeching which is bad I think, the patter noise, no noise when cornering, and there’s the wheel spin noise when putting the power on and there’s a gripping kind of noise as well.

Also, how do you read the friction telemetry, as much info as possible would be greatly appreciated?

Thank you


As for tire noise, the less you hear the better. If you hear no noise then you’ve got one of two things: Either you’re going to slow or you’ve got enough grip, and lap times will show you which one you’re looking at. But the friction page is the one page I’ve never really got the hang of in the Forza series.

Less noise is better then. There’s always very distinct grip noise the tires make quite often on RWD and it isn’t wheel spin or sliding. Is this good to have? Knowing these little things helps us develop as tuners I guess that’s all…

If you can’t hear the tyres in the turns, you aren’t going fast enough.

lol I don’t have that issue

I’d agree with this.

One very wise man once teached me, And what I learned, was that the best grip is hardly ever 100 grip, it’s 5% slip. (or 105% grip if you so wish.)

In other words when you are pushing to the absolute limit of the car you want to have that tiny amount of slip. although you dont want to let it grow up to 110% slip as that isn’t any faster, but it’s more likely that you start losing the grip rapidly, which will cause slide (600% of grip used)

How much is this “5% slip”. Its enough that you can (barely) hear your tires staring to whine. Its enough that you can see that there is some faint skidmarks coming out of your tires, but still you don’t really feel any loss of grip. That is because you are riding the very limit of it.
bad pic. I know

As the picture shows, Enough that you can see skidmarks, how ever, you don’t see any countersteering action happening. pushing to the limit (with terrible drivingline)

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So based on that pic my skid is very similar but just a bit darker. looking at friction of the opposite wheel its quite low compared to the outside wheel. The car isnt that bad but is there a way to even out the friction on my RWD when turning

I’ll agree with Juggernaut that some noise is okay, just not any noise. If you’re swinging through the corner and the tires sound like you’re auditioning for a Fast and Furious movie, then you’re losing a lot of speed. As for the friction, the best I could say is play with either the rear springs or most likely the differential, but it’s hard for me to give you an actual answer based on just the question of how to get rid of just tire noise.

I did wonder about the diff, what benefits do having a higher decel than accel have?(even when the settings are very low)

HLR is correct, tires produce their peak grip at a positive slip angle. I have even heard numbers as high as twenty degrees!

Regarding tire noise, it can depend on the type of tire you are using. Street tires tend to start talking long before they actually begin to let go. Racing slicks, on the other hand, tend not to make much noise until they are close to the limit of adhesion (found this out from personal experience haha).

So what about ways that I can reduce friction, I’m getting up into 150% areas on the outside tires when cornering. The outside front is worse than outside rears, the rears just needs a small adjustment to bring it into optimum range, 105%. I can even out the friction with the ARB’s for both sides of the car, which is one thing I’ve tried and it seems to reduce the friction a little as well on the outside.

The end result of the 150% range is a break in traction/grip and then it’s spinning into 200-300%… Not good at all but I know by lowering this by just 30% or a bit more it will make this a much more desirable car in the corners.

Additionally the car I am running has to be raised quite high to avoid bottoming out under braking just in case that’s relevant

Are you talking ride height?

Yeah, ride height, it’s just way the car is. I’ve ran really high spring rates and the thing still bottoms out under braking(I can hear the scraping on first corner - catalunya gp)

The ride height is defaulted so that rear is always a higher number than front if you evened the bars up

This reminds me a bit of Lancia 037 in FM4. That thing is fast. but if you want good tune on it you want to jack it up as high as it goes always.
Then you set fairly soft springs and fairly high bump on it (this is how I tend to do it.)

There are cars where is few quirks on them. and some cars that are faster with setup which dosn’t just seem to make any sense, but then again. even the weirdest setup might prove to be the fastest in some cases.

^^thanks I’ll try that. 2 seconds lap time and I’m in xbow range on catalynya. The soft springs will fit well with the offsets theory I just hope I don’t get thrown off the curbs with high bump

Thanks again

Just think suspension this way. in general.

General rule. When you lower your car, you should soften it, and increase bump and rebound stiffness. I’m not quite sure why, but that’s what (real life) fast guys have told me fairly often.
My own thoughts of it is. The higher your car is the stiffer springs you need to force the tire back on to the ground after running over a bump. In other words keep the wheels to the ground. And you need soft damping for high and stiff suspension so that it wouldn’t restrict and “slow down” the action of the spring, which would jerk the car

When you lower the suspension and soften it you are able to go faster. but you need smoother surface to do so. therefore the damping doesn’t need to be as soft, as it doesn’t have to deal with so long and sudden movements. it has to deal with smooth elevation changes.

This leads me to situation, Where I set the car as low as I can, bit high enough, so that the chassis will move smoothly. If I can tackle the kerbs without bottoming out, I know my rideheight is high enough, if not too high.
If I bottom out on elevation changes, I know my suspension or damping isn’t stiff enough. now I just have to test which one gives me better results, stiffer springs, or stiffer damping.

if I bottom out on sweepers / braking or accelerating, I might take another look at my ARB’s, stiffen them up a bit, or then again it still might be on spring stiffness or bump stiffness.

Gravity. The higher the chassis goes, the heavier it gets. Keeping softer spring rates allows the vehicle to stay low to the ground. But if the chassis is too high, it’ll flatten the springs because they’re too soft. If you stiffen the springs, then the chassis won’t flatten them. However you’re prone to having horrid body roll because the springs are too stiff and the chassis is high enough that the car’s center of gravity is too high. A low car isn’t generally faster because there’s less air under it, but because it’s center of gravity is closer to the ground. Which by the way is something that needs to given attention to from Turn 10.