I haven’t raced on a controller since the last Need For Speed game and only did that long enough to complete the game (1 week). I only race on the wheel. I have been on my Thrustmaster TX since it released for the Xbox One. I have thousands of hours on it. I drive for a living in real life and did some real racing for a short while (got too expensive). I cannot express the level of experience I have racing on wheels. I am 43 and have raced on PC wheels since the original Test Drive games up until the Microsoft wheel came out on the 360, then went to the TX 6 months into the release of the One. I normally don’t complain about having to make adjustments. It is life when using a wheel on different games. You have to find your sweet spot. PC2 was tricky to set up. Horizon 4 refuses to let me find a sweet spot. I have hours into moving settings around and testing. The game still has physics issues including uncontrolled sliding while offroad. My original post was me finally giving up after having a week long convo with someone in Support, passing ideas around with other wheel users, and almost having a permanent dent in my forehead from banging it on my wheel after restarting a race 5-10 times. I am a fast diver and normally place well on leaderboards on games other than this one and that adds to my frustration. I always pride myself at easily being as fast or faster than my controller friends. This game is not tuned for the wheel to be competitive, or even close. Maybe some of us wheel racers made one of the devs mad on Horizon 3 and they decided to ruin it for all of us. Hard to say. There is a huge gap in communication between users/players and the devs. Mostly because of trolls and newbies, I am sure.
As a wheel user I dont reconize this… My wheel is set at 900,. Sensitivity @ 70% so I am at around 600 degrees maybe? Dunno.
Dont combine changing steering degrees and sensitivity, they do the same.
Furthermore I use linear steering.
Dont set steering on simulation. Makes it behave twitchy and weird when countersteering and it doesnt make sense.
No, they don’t, they don’t do anything like the same, change the sensitivity only changes it for about half the steering range, so anything other than 50 gives you a horrible step change in output vs input speed about halfway through the steering lock.
Are you sure? This is taken from the link beneath;
STEERING SENSITIVITY
This adjusts the ratio of your steering wheel’s degree of rotation (DOR) to the car’s front wheels actual degree of steering rotation. Steering ratio defines the ratio between the steering wheel rotation and the turn of the wheels. In other words, how many degrees of steering wheel turn are required to turn the car’s wheels by 1 degree.
If you set your wheel’s degrees to 900 and the game Steering Sensitivity to max (100), your output is double the amount of your input, so if you turn your wheel by 180 degrees, this turn the wheels twice the amount they would turn with sensitivity setting at 50.
TIP - we suggest you adjust wheel rotation in software OR Steering Sensitivity in game, not both.
Certain, tested it extensively - it’s not even that it’s not linear either, it does different amounts as the speeds change as well. Don’t trust Forza’s documentation, half their axis explanations are the wrong way around for a start. So is brake bias.
The sensitivity part plus simulation is one of the things that help me find the conflict of controller support applying to a wheel. If you enter telemetry mode, you will see the wheels turn quick, then really slow to lock. Countersteer problem means you really dony get a countersteer as much in low angles. Result is difficulty in control. If you adjust linearity, you can get it back up to a smooth sweep but with better responsiveness in low degrees.
I give up. I’ve tried to find a decent setup since the game came out. It’s not possible. I’ve tried contacting them through support and everything. It’s just useless. Starting to want my money back as I’ve only put like 2 hours into this game and an hour and 45 minutes of that was trying to set up the wheel…
I feel your pain. I have a clan member who bought a wheel specifically to play FH4. It was delivered the week the game released. It is a TX like mine. I helped him get set up and started on FM7. He loved it…then FH4 released. After a week of not being able to race reliably (he is extremely fast), he put it up and went back to the controller only on Horizon. He loves the wheel on the other games.
Apparently at some point they sent out a patch quietly. After reassessing my settings, the game is now handling much like FH3. The handling still feels muddy, but it is MUCH more enjoyable. Played all day yesterday on Treasure Island with not a cuss word, a forehead dent, or anything broken. My wife even came in and even asked “WOW! You have been playing Horizon all day and haven’t been yelling?!?” I had to force myself to get off my Xbox last night because I was enjoying FH4 sooo much. This game is absolutely great. Now the physics are almost perfect, so I am in heaven. Thanks for the updates T10 and PlayGround! You made me a happy SOB by fixing the game!
Here are my settings for FH3 handling:
Normal Steering
ABS Off
STM Off
TCS Off
Layout 1
Vibration On
Steering Axis Deadzone Inside: 0
Steering Axis Deadzone Outside: 100
Steering Linearity: 50
Acceleration Axis Deadzone Inside: 0
Acceleration Axis Deadzone Outside: 100
Deceleration Axis Deadzone Inside: 0
Deceleration Axis Deadzone Outside: 100
Clutch Axis Deadzone Inside: 0
Clutch Axis Deadzone Outside: 90
E-Brake Axis Deadzone Inside: 0
E-Brake Axis Deadzone Outside: 100
Vibration Scale: 100
Force Feedback Scale: 60
Center Spring Scale: 140
Wheel Damper Scale: 140
Force Feedback Understeer: 25
Force Feedback Minimum Force: 30
Wheel Rotation Angle: 600
The fact you think it’s ok to play with center spring and wheel damper on anything other than 0 baffles me.
Sorry dude but if the settings are there to change, who are you to tell him what’s ok and what’s not. It’s a friggin arcade game, if it’s working for his driving style/wheel hardware and he’s smiling away I sure some players on this forum would like to know his settings. Since you seem to know so much give me the proper FFB settings for a Thrustmaster TX v54 on a Xbox 1X.
Because centre springs and dampers are entirely artificial effects that mask the actual force feedback. If you’re going to have those turned up and the FFB turned down you may as well just be on a cheap sprung/bungie corded wheel.
Umm… Centering and dampening are real world physics that occur in real cars. It is the resistance you will feel on all steering wheels outside of superpowersteering soccermobiles. And centering occurs on all as well. Drive along a road, go around corner. Let go of wheel and wheel straightens itself
No, that’s from mechanical and pnuematic trail, and tyre loadings, not a spring loading. Same for damping, there’s very little damping in a steering system itself unless it’s PAS in which case high frequency vibration/impact is damped by the ram - however, all normal speed steering/countersteering movements are not, only by the slight amount of friction in the joints - which is probably no higher than your wheel naturally has in the bearings and drive system.
Both of those are already modelled in the force feedback and tyre system and are NOT the same as the spring and damper settings in game.
I build racecars for a living. Not drive soccer-mobiles.
The mechanics are different, but the existence of both are still the same. Since we do noy have physical wheels moving across road surfaces, it has to be simulated. That means that it is innacurate with improper settings. A too high of dampening most notable with stock setting feeling really bad, but is always some resistance…
If you build race cars, then you should know about the cause of steering resistance. Tire scrub.
At motion, this becomes less and less relevant, the faster you go, but there still is a dampening (dampening, not resistance) in the mechanical and hydraulic/power systems.
Centering force is the trail simulation and the force feedback is most noticable for this in oversteer/understeer and how in countersteer you get the floating. That is why in the FFB there is only the understeer forcefeedback because the centering is part of oversteer. That is its own settings for a comfort reasons. All features reflect to real world force feedback, but that doesnt mean they are correct in their settings. Incorrect settings give an incorrect simulation.
No, centering spring is not the trail simulation, it’s nothing to do with it - centring spring is exactly what it says it is - a spring force that tries to centre the wheel regardless of what the car or tyres are doing, centering through pnuematic and mechanical trail is already simulated through the FFB itself. Turn the centre spring off and you’ll see that’s the case.
All centering spring does is simulate the feel of the old bungee cord non-force-feedback wheels.
Damping on the wheels setting page affects all movements, regardless of what the tyre or car is doing, much like the spring - it just adds resistance to movement on the wheel, that means even if the FFB effects are trying to spin the wheel into countersteer at the start of a drift, damping will try to resist that. If you try to move the wheel quickly to correct a slide, damping will try to resist that.
Neither effect is linked to what the car or tyre is physically doing, which is why we all turn them off. They’re just there for people who like the wheel to self centre and to dial out vibration or oscillation from poor quality wheels or mounts. However, both effects mask the actual FFB effects in game.
Turn FFB scale down to zero, spring and damper up to 100 and you’ll basically just have one of the cheap bungee-cord and friction-band wheels that self centres and feels heavy to turn but with no actual force feedback related to the car at all - that is why the game tells you that neither setting scales with the FFB settings, they’re entirely seperate.