The brake pedal on the Logitech G920 racing wheel kit has a piece of rubber in it that prevents you pushing it all the way down. This is a problem with both Forza 6 and 7: on some units, you can’t get full braking without standing on the pedal. On Forza 6, you could go into controller settings and switch brake with clutch. Then you have to shift with your fingers, but now you have a brake pedal you can easily push all the way down.
Forza 7 doesn’t have the option to switch brake and clutch. So far, the only other option I’ve heard of is to take the G920 apart and remove the rubber stopper.
I found this to be an unbearable option, so I sat despondently for hours in front of my Xbozone, and stumbled across a workaround. My rubber-stopper brake pedal works great now. I think it’s a bug in the way Forza 7 handles the dead zones. Those help bubbles that pop up next to the settings are not describing what really happens when you’re on the track.
So here it is, drum roll: set the deceleration axis dead zone inside to zero. Slide the deceleration axis dead zone outside all the way to the right, then all the way back left (it stops at 20 on my revision of Forza 7, just slide it left as far as it will go).
That’s it (remember to accept or apply the settings!). My brakes are awesome. Sometimes it stops working. I think it’s when the console goes to sleep. I haven’t worked that part out yet. But if you go back into the settings and fiddle with the outside dead zone again (remember to accept or apply the settings!), it will fix the problem again. Well, it fixed my problem. With any luck it will help all the new G920 owners coming up,
It’s a much bigger problem in Assetto Corsa. We must consider ourselves lucky.
After months of use (repeatedly pressing with strength) it got better for me, to the point that right now I have zero problems with it in Forza 7. I’m glad it’s gone, I like that feeling the piece of rubber gives, feels like a real brake pedal when fully pressed.
Anyway I guess all pedal bases are different.
Warning: opening the pedal base to remove the piece of rubber will void the warranty.
See, this is where problems often come in with regards to pedal sets specifically; they really need to be hard mounted to a wheel stand at the very least. Be thankful you do not run with a load cell brake with a free standing pedal set.
There are plenty of options for wheel stands that include pedal mounting, such as the wheel stand pro. It can be folded up for easy storage, as well as reducing the storage space needed.
My personal choice is the GT Omega wheel stand, which is a much more sturdy piece of kit; and includes all the required hard mounting hardware for the wheel and pedals. You do need to buy a mount for the shifter, but it is pre-drilled for mounting the Logitech and Thrustmaster shifters, as well as fanatec hardware. So if you was ever to upgrade to a different wheel in the future, it makes it very easy to to do so without having to buy another wheel stand. You can also buy a racing seat attachments from GT Omega, so also has future upgradability to turn it into a full cockpit.
Mounting the pedals means you do not need to chase them around the room, as they will be bolted down. It also makes it all that much easier to apply the appropriate pressure to reach full braking on the G920 pedals, as well as the TP3A and Fanatec pedals.
A lot of people overlook a wheel stand due to the room constraints, as did I for a few years. Now I have a wheel stand however, I will never go back to using free standing racing pedals. I do most of my racing on the PC, FM7 included; which is why I have my T300 mounted instead of my G920.
This is my T300RS with T3PA pedals sets (rubber conical brake mod included, provides the same effect as the rubber in the G920 pedals), and TH8A shifter; all mounted to my GT Omega wheel stand.
I have both wheels and the horrible brake on the Logitech pedals is in no way like the Thrustmaster conical brake mod. The Thrustmaster pedals allow the pedal to be pressed all the way while still feeling like a regular brake. The only way you can even get the Logitech pedals to even go 3/4 of the way is to hold them, grab the brake with your hand and push as hard as you can. Even mounted to my racing chair, pressing them hard enough to get even 50% braking will bend the plate holding the pedals. The two rubber mods are vastly different.
Yeah, I guess some lucky ones got a wheel that doesn’t do this. I’ve had two; both of them were like this. No matter what settings you set, you get full brakes or no brakes. I got used to it on full, after a while.
You do have to manually calibrate the pedals when you first plug in your wheel, which is done by fully depressing them and releasing them a couple of times; including the brake. If you don’t do this, then you do not have the full range of the pedal. Not doing this results in a very inconsistent pedal.
I know you say you cant fully depress the brake because of the rubber stop, but if hard mounted to a stand, or at the least pressed up to a hard surface (like a wall); its very easy to do so.
So many people say the brake pedal is an issue on the G920 and G29 pedal sets, but compare them to the pedals on the G25/G27 (I own a G27) that didn’t include that by default (there was a 3rd party mod to add a rubber cushion like in the G920 pedals); the G920/G29’s really benefit from it.
It actually gives increased control of the brake, as without it you can bottom out the pedal to 100% with pure ease; which will cause you to lock up the brakes (or activate ABS if you run with it turned on). Both those things will decrease your ability to brake in the game. Not to mention it will leave you looking for an alternative solution then to stop the brakes locking up, which most do by adding race brakes and decreasing brake pressure. That in itself is another bad thing, as any races/rivals that require a 100% stock car and tuning; will then leave you with a very big disadvantage.
You can learn to control the brake without the rubber cushion, but you have to rely much more on muscle memory based on leg/foot position. With the rubber cushion in place, you will learn to control the brake via the amount of pressure you use instead, more like when driving a real car. Doing so also makes it easier to learn how to use a load cell brake, which relies on pressure applied to control the braking.
I would highly suggest looking into what I mentioned in my previous post, as it will go a long way to alleviating the issue you are having.
I have pretty much the same Stand total cost Delivered was only $130 AU I got mine of Ebay and is quit a solid stand will take almost any pedal or wheel mount as all the holes for mounting are all done for most models. If Using a TMX you may want to get the Adaptor plate that allows you to ditch the Clamp and fit the wheel directly to the Stand gives a much better mounting as the clamp can work loose. PM me if you want the link for the Adaptor plate total cost was $50 AU delivered .
I was also having G920 gas and break pedal issues and it turned out the I had used them so much the contacts were dirty so I had to disassemble the pedals and clean the potentiometers. After I cleaned them the pedals worked like new again.
I’ve been using my G920 for a while now. Bought it the day it was released. I can say, I didn’t have any issues with my wheel. For a time, I had removed the rubber block from the brake pedal, but put it back in when I thought I’d have to sell the wheel. But I kept it though. And since putting the block back in, I’ve gotten used to the shorter “throw” of the brake pedal, and I won’t take the block out again.
I’ve used the wheel in all Forza Games on Xbox One, and they all work just fine. After getting the deadzones set to my preferences, all of the tunes I use have a braking pressure of 160%. It is set there for my Elite controller as I have arthritis on my left hand, and can’t pull the trigger fully back, and have to use the stopper. I didn’t change my tunes for the wheel, I just adapted the wheel settings to the tunes.
I’m still playing with my settings since I was gifted the wheel on Sunday, I thought setting the outside deadzone was a big part of making this work. I should probably read the G920 manual on that power up calibration of the wheel.