playing with assists off

Has any one had any success playing forza games using a wheel G920 or any other wheel where you remove the assists.

I find that the game becomes unplayable because there is no calibration to set your wheel. with the G920 braking is hopeless and the steering goes out the window. And when you put the assists back it all works ok in a very arcade mode. Are we ever going to see this game which is now on PC work better for serious racers with a wheel. We have wheel support but nothing else.

put your wheel DOR as low as you can go. If you can get to 180 and adjust to using it, even better. Turn your vibrations down as that will mess with input.
Also move the clutch to a button.

Driving with no assists at all is perfectly doable.

Is it ever going to happen wheel calibration as we have in other games.

Playing with assists off you will never win any race maybe only on the lowest difficulty.

Let me get my crystal ball for that first one.

No. Unlikely. I give a 1/10 chance.

2nd. You need more forza practice. Its doable but you need to shift mindset for forza. Rules that other racers with proper wheel support do not apply. Become one with the disconnect.

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when you play with the necessary assists on it is so frustrating to know that you have the ability to do better only to be slowed down with the incumbents applied and you cant do anything about it.
Why have the assists option removed when no one has any hope of having a chance

Dust is right. However I will say high DOR can work amazing in Forza too, just requires far more testing. I run no assists either. Here’s the settings I find best, I adjust them per car but here’s a good baseline.

900° Rotation - Road cars, Hypercars, Hatchbacks
90 to 100 Dampening
90 to 100 Centre Spring
95 to 105 Force Feedback understeer
120 to 130 Minimum Force
5 to 20 Vibration
79 to 89 Force Feedback
46 to 47 Linearity

540° - GT Cars, V8 Supercars, NASCAR
48 to 58 Dampening
90 to 100 Centre Spring
95 to 105 Force Feedback understeer
120 to 130 Minimum Force
5 to 20 Vibration
79 to 89 Force Feedback
46 to 47 Linearity

390° - F1 Cars, Indycars, Formula E
29 to 39 Dampening
90 to 100 Centre Spring
95 to 105 Force Feedback understeer
120 to 130 Minimum Force
5 to 20 Vibration
79 to 89 Force Feedback
46 to 47 Linearity

Still trying to perfect 270° (F1 cars and Indycars) and 720° (Track Toys and Open Wheel Cars, BAC Mono Etc)

I run no assists, use a TX, T3PA Pro, New Rim, all that kinda jazz and have scored a few 1st in the worlds and I’m relatively quick on all leaderboards (Top 1% all the time)

If you’re having problems in braking, adjust your deadzones. I heard the G920 spring is extremely stiff so deadzones may find you a heap of time.

Absolutely and thats why I never adjusted the FFB thread OP. Its still 900.

900 works but without soft locking I cant be bothered, particularly without on wheel features to assist with all the DOR swapping.

900 works with a great deal, but low DOR works with everything. Up to the person in the end to get it to play as best as they can for them.

Couldn’t have said it better myself.
180° is 1:1 input on Forza I believe which is why 180° and low DOR like that feels so good as it’s close to that 1:1 input you get on a controller.

I just personally prefer the authenticity of hopping in a car, with the same DOR it has irl. It requires more effort but also feels more realistic as a result to me.

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Forza is quirky compared to games like Assetto Corsa because you must configure everything manually, even the assists. It’s the way the game is, unfortunately.

To compete with other games on PC, Turn 10 will have to rethink some of the more gamey aspects of Forza, but most people are on Xbox and use controller so they probably don’t treat it as a priority.

If Forza wants to be more SIM like, they first of all need soft-locking. They then need to make the wheel and controller even as controllers are still far too quick compared to wheel users. They then really badly need to fix the over-powered assists problem.

If a car does not have ABS, you should not be able to run ABS, make it an upgrade that takes up PI.
If a car does not have TCS, you should not be able to run TCS, make it an upgrade that takes up PI.
If a car does not have STM, you should not be able to run STM, make it an upgrade that takes up PI.
If a car uses a manual with clutch configuration, then you shouldn’t be able to run it in manual mode and vice versa.

This is one of my dreams I wish Forza would implement. It wouuld reeally show who the most skillful drivers truly are.


I have less than a day with my G920 with no assists, it is really hard to do anything, breaking is imposible, you have to try really push it hard to see that the car is slowing down. Steering… welll not as easy as I thought it would be, I’m crashing like never did in real life,the wheel does not goes back to the middle as I expected, what can I do to solve it?

err, going to have to break it down more for us.

When you say “braking is impossible, you have to push it hard” do you mean the pedal?

If so you can use deadzones to fix this.
If you mean that despite how hard you are pressing the pedal the car doesnt stop? Turn your vibrations right down. atleast 40.

Steering: what mode are you using? Normal?
What DOR are you using with what car are you trying to drive?

Self aligning torque is in the game its just eh.

Xbox or PC?
If on PC, use Emuwheel.

Depending on what exactly you mean by that this may help

This guy has great settings for the G920…and he’s pretty quick using it as well.

Im nearly as fast with the wheel like I’m with controller. It’s all practice and testing.

Don’t try see Forza as a sim. This train has left long ago the station.

Very important are the side forces in the game. With them it’s very easy to get information about grip. But there’s really much space for improvement.

The G920 braking is tough because of the rubber resistance piece they build into the pedal. Some people advise against it, but I set my braking deadzone all the way to sensitive so the pedal push is more friendly. For DOR I set and kept it somewhere between 540 and 600. Changing wheel settings for every car or class is something I don’t have time for.


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I do pretty much the same as Kdogg788. My braking deadzone is pretty low so that i don’t have to push as hard on the brake pedal and I stick around 540 for the DOR. After some tinkering with FFB, I do pretty well with the wheel. The G920 is not the best wheel by any means, but for $350 it really is a pretty good wheel.

I agree with everyone’s conclusions, I use a higher outside deadzone on the brake as well. I do have my DOR set really low though, about 420 or less IIRC. The only assists I occasionally use are braking line for hotlapping, and manual transmission, instead of manual with clutch as I improve my heel-toe skills. BTW, the fanatec pedal set has feedback sensors on the accelerator and brake pedals, so you can get a similar experience with those pedals as well that you get with the feedback on the controller. Works great on both PC and XBOX One/X. I agree, the G920 is a great mid-price range setup and its a solid performer, until you get into crazy dollars like a full fanatec setup or a little more modest Thrustmaster setup.

You dont know low until your run 180 DOR :wink:


I’m not particularly quick, but I AM just as fast with my wheel as I am with my controller. One change I made early on which made the biggest difference to lap time was changing to a loadcell brake pedal setup. Having that more realistic pressure pedal vs travel/spring pedal had a huge effect on my lap times -I’m seconds faster, not just tenths or hundredths- and I also very rarely lock up since making the change.