Newbie Tuner Requests Feedback

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Hey all,

I was hoping that maybe I could get one/some of you to take a look at a build/tune I did. Its a 90 IROC-Z Camaro in B class. I’m trying to learn how to tune and I’m obviously missing something, but can’t figure out what it is. I’m a decent driver, but nothing great. For example, the car I’m trying to tune is ranked 6569 on Silverstone B class with a time of 2:27. I know that’s laughable to many of you, thus why I’m posting this. I really think I can knock at least 5 seconds off that if I can get this car dialed in right.

Like most newbies, I can drive cars that grip no problem. I’m in the top .1% on many leaderboards in D and C class by driving cars like Mini Coopers, Celicas, and Mercedes 190E. I prefer RWD and want to step up to the next level but all the tunes I find either have too much grip and I get my doors blown off in the straights, or they are loaded to the gills with HP and can’t handle at all unless you’re a pro driving them. I’m not looking to top the leaderboard, just end up with a tune that is good for my driving ability that will hold its own. So, I guess I’m looking for what most are, a good blend of grip with some speed and acceleration. What I have now is close to that, but it could use a little more jump. More importantly, I just can’t get the rear end to stop sliding around on me without creating understeer. That’s way more important to me than the power it has right now. For now, I am driving with ABS, STM, TCS, Auto. I plan to take them all off one by one once I get a better feel for what I’m doing with this car. I am driving without all of them in D and C class now, but its an apples to oranges comparison, I know.

Anyway, the build is: (all stock unless mentioned)
Conversions: Centrifugal Supercharger
Engine: Sport Ignition, Sport Centrifugal Supercharger, Race Cam
Platform is all race except for stock reinforcement
Drivetrain: Race Trans, Street Driveline, Race Diff
Tires: Sport Compound, 265/30R20 front, 335/25R20 rear, P1Racing GF Rims
Aero: Front and rear are adjustable

Tune:
Tires: 27.0/27.5
Gears: 3.90 FD, 1st 2.89, 2nd 1.99, 3rd 1.49, 4th 1.16, 5th 0.94, 6th 0.78
Alignment: Camber -0.9/-0.8, Toe 0.0/-0.1, Angle 6.0
Roll-bars: 28.24/26.56
Springs: 910.0/848.2 Height 5.3/5.3
Damping: Rebound 9.8/9.2 Bump 6.4/6.0
Aero: Maxed
Brakes: 50/140
Diff: 40/27

Anyway, I’d greatly appreciate any feedback I can get. No matter how positive or negative it might be. There are things I like about this car, and would really like to get it dialed in so I can see how far I can take it. Love to find out what I’ve done wrong and what I’ve done right so I can learn from it too.

Thanks in advance.

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the tune above seems a bit stiff in terms of numbers .
your camber is way to low for fm5 (not bad for fm4) try -2.2 front and -2.0 rear camber , also knock down your spring rates by 25% and bump rates in half try that and see if it helps the car

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I have a decent one that you can download and try, and if you like it, I can give you build/tune and you can take it from there.

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CoastKey - just purchased your build/tune and will try it out. Thanks for the lead!

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CoastKey - what assists (if any) do you use with this build/tune? Thanks!

I used ABS OFF, SIM Steering, TCS Only, and AUTO shifting. Was able to gain time yet still need a lot of improvement. At 2:58 on the Gran Prix Silverstone. I am still going through the learning curve of gaming (controller and so on…). Any tips would be greatly appreciated!

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I am also a newbie and I am having a similar issue as described by Lou3824. I’ll try the recommendations by reaper mech and see how much it helps. Thanks for the insights.

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What reaper said, plus I would lose the race camshaft and trade it for more grip. Although it adds weight, chassis reinforcement is going to improve the handling. The stiff springs will definitely not be helping the car take a set into a corner, and a lack of bite on the fronts is only going to accentuate that.

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Thanks guys, I’ll make the changes and let you all know how it works out.

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Ok, I made the changes that were suggested on the Camber, Springs and Bump. Defintely improved, but the rear end is still very shaky at times. Its inconsistent so its tough for me to pin point what the problem is. I didn’t take WearyMick’s advice on the roll cage. I might do it yet, but want to try without it first.

CoastKey: I downloaded your tune. It handles great, but lacks the power I’m looking for. Would love to see your tune to give me a good way to trouble shoot mine. Problem with your tune is that the best I could run it was a high 2:27 at Silverstone. That’s about the best I could do before I started to build my own.

The Rival I am trying to beat is laughing at me in the straight aways. I need more speed to get a lower time. If I can get the issues with mine resolved, I think I’ll get there. I keep getting way ahead of him, but the rear end cuts loose and I loose time because of it in a few turns and he beats me. I’m running a low 2:27 and know I can get it at least 5 seconds faster if I can fix that rear end. So, back to the drawing board for me I guess. I gave up on it for tonight and built myself something else for C class that I really like. I posted it here…

Any more thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again guys.

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Im gonna see if I can build it more for speed, but I would also suggest looking at some of the better drivers ghost. There is alot to gain With “correct” entering/exiting a corner and Learning the track. I tried the car at Silverstone and hit 2.22 on second lap.

“More importantly, I just can’t get the rear end to stop sliding around on me without creating understeer. That’s way more important to me than the power it has right now.” This can be both drivingstyle and/or car so a tips could be to reduce speed sooner and more before corners. You get surprised how good times you can set With slower in/faster out.

Just waking up and gonna put up a faster Version in a couple hours.

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If you don’t want to spend points on grip, you can soften the rear roll bar relative to the front and dial down the accel differential to help keep the rear end in check. To be honest though it sounds as though you’re just overpowering your tyres.

Also, using STM is not going to be helping your efforts as it is like having an annoying back seat driver intermittently grabbing at the wheel and poking your brakes. Try tuning your car without it to avoid confusion.

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Try it now. Got a 2.20 on first full lap.

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I would agree just about everything what WearyMick and reaper mech have mentioned so far.

I don’t have FM5 yet, (but some of you might remember me and my tunes from FM4.) but the figures you were giving just seem to be way off. Although as you mentioned most of that you have already fixed. (reapers advice)

And race camshaft is one of the most useless upgrade that is in this game 95% of the time. I would suggest dropping cams out, adding race cetrifugal supercharger, and possibly some other engine mods Exhaust, Airfilter, Pistons, and/or valves to be more precise. as where they might not bring so much HP in, they lose weight at the same time, which will give you better acceleration.

I also pretty often tend to drop out the race transmission, although I know that car has bit awkward stock gearing, so in this case I might personally let it go trough.

Rollcage is essential part with this car. Part of the reason why the car might seem slippery might be from chassis flex.and in reality the chassis flex on that car is so bad that when and if you have proper suspension setup and tires on it, you can fit your fingers trough the gap of a closed door in hard cornering. Although that would not be too smart, as when you turn the other way you couldn’t sqeeze a hair trough that same gap. Almost every car from mid 90’s and older suffer from this effect, some more and some less. I would really support the idea of the rollcage, or at least sport chassis reinforcement.

One thing that might help is narrower race tires, although note that I said MIGHT.

And last thing, That rim size might be bit high, Sure lower profile will give you more responsive car. and that might give you feeling that you would have more grip than you actually have. And when you go over the limit, it won’t give you any warning, it will be sideways so fast that it’s hard to control, and if you managed to control it when you lost the grip, it will bite twice as hard when the grip comes back. Higher tire profile might make it feel more slippery, but when you are coming to the limit of grip, it will give you more warning, and therefore more time to correct what ever is causing the slip, and if you didn’t manage to correct that in time, the returning of the grip isn’t as harsh.

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Coastkey, I’ll give it a whirl tonight.

HLR Juggernaut, thanks for the advice. I’ll redo the build tonight. Take out the cam and put the rollcage in, fill in whatever PI is left…

Thanks again guys, its very appreciated.