I can’t seem to wrap my head around this car in forza 4 this was my best tune. Now in forza 5 no matter what I do to the car it is a dang snowplow. It pushes through the turns horribly. I’ve tried everything. The car is set up more for handling than it is for speed mainly for shorter tracks like silverstone short and tracks like it with minimal straights and sharp turns.
My tire pressure is F 25.5 R 26
Camber is set perfectly to have a flat tire into a corner. Not sure of the numbers
Caster is 4.5
Anti roll bars are soft not too sure on the number but the front is softer than the rear hoping to put some over steer into it
Damping is softer front than rear
Springs are softer front than rear
All the suspension is tuned for over steer and I just get under steer no matter what.
And I am no rookie to tuning I have a top 100 and 200 zr1 vette on tracks. A top 100 200 Ferrari 360 and a top 100 200 cts V.
Does anyone have any advise or any tunes to help me put this problem to rest?
I haven’t tuned this one myself, but the car is heavy, front engined, rear wheel drive, right? Your back end should be softer than your front. Try setting the suspension elements based on the actual weight distribution of the car and then play around a bit with the ARBs. You will need everything a little more stiff over FM4 because weight shift is so much more pronounced in FM5. Set the front ARB so that the front of the car isn’t ploughing or leaning heavily into corners, but not so much that it’s reluctant to turn in and transfer weight, and then adjust the rear ARB so that the nose of the car will stay where you like it though the turn and exit without getting too skittish under power down. Also, those tyre pressures look very low. What pressure are they running at hot?
If you throw up your settings and parts list there’s any number of guys on here - myself included - who would be happy to jump in and help you sort it out.
Awesome thanks I will give it a try as soon as I get back home.
So do I just want stiffer ARBs? What about springs damping and bump stiffness? I’ve always had the fronts softer than the rear in my front engines in past forzas because I do like to have oversteer in my cars more than your average racer but also not uncontrollable.
As for my tire pressure. After I run my 3 laps they’re usually anywhere from 32 to 33 psi which I have found to be the best for grip. Also my tire temp is usually 225 to 230 with the inner tire hotter than the outter through the turns by about 2 degrees. What tire pressures do you usually run? I’ll never go lower than 25 but usually my cars are about 26
tire pressure is too low try 29 f/r needs a bit more camber around 1.8 f/r, toss the toe in and toe out on the f/r, now like posted above the front should be a tad bit heavier than the rear when it comes to springs , the diff seems to be really high for a cornering car try 25 accel and 10 decel for the damping try 6.0 f rebound 6.2 r rebound 3.5 f bump and 3.8 r bump
see if this helps , i have a b class camaro zl1 that i fought a bit too so i know its a fun car to tune to turn instead of going straight lol
I just had a breakthrough that seriously changed all of my fastest lap times drastically. I still have some more testing to do but I went from a old fastest 2:10:700 at Sebring to a 2:09:532
At Bathurst I went from a 2:12:062 old fastest to a 2:10:922 in my BMW 1M and pulled off a 2:11:239 in my cts-v
I also got a 2:30:891 compared to my old 2:32:124 at Laguna seca in the ZL1 camaro. I solved it!
With both of your advice and actually buying a tune from “zt dealer” I felt how his car felt like it was on rails and tuned my cars accordingly. I think I solved the secret. SOFT I put everything Soft my springs soft with about 30 extra pounds on the front. Just soft enough that my car wouldn’t bottom out. I found that perfect like. I went with 2.3 negative front camber and 1.9 negative front turned the tire pressure up with the rear having less than the front and also did what you told me to do to the rear diff and it all worked amazingly I can’t believe the times I just pulled off. Now all I have to do is fine tune these cars and I will shave seconds off of my old times
Great news! Looks like I’m a little late getting back though.
I built up your car and applied a rough tune which I’ve shared as ZL1 A700 if you want to have a comparison run. One of the good things in FM5 is that balanced cars actually work very well, which wasn’t always the case in previous iterations. For what it is, the car isn’t actually that bad, and is a lot of fun to drive on the throttle. It did however behave as though it had a lot more weight to put on the outside front tyre then the raw numbers would suggest. I left the gears 4 speed exactly as you had them. Given the amount of torque the thing has, they work pretty well. Good luck! Details of the tune below:
Tyres 27 psi front and rear
Camber 2.2/1.9 f/r
ARB 27/26 f/r
Springs 670/635 f/r
Ride height 5.9 both ends
Dampers 9.2/8.9 f/r and 2.8/2.7 f/r
Aero 85/155 f/r
Toe and Caster default.
I gave it a try I could run quick laps with it but not as fast as the one I made with soft suspension. My suspension is at 450 f 420 r and it turns on a dime. It still seems a little off I think I just need to play with the dampers and roll bars a little more, but thanks you actually helped out a lot.
I went with those spring rates because of the lardy weight transfer behaviour of the car. Every car is different, however, and even that car, tuned for a specific track might be softened quite a bit. Generally speaking, you should have the springs set as soft as you can without adverse effects. Don’t just go by feel alone, use the telemetry to show you what is actually going on. It can sometimes surprise you. If you want to cope with the compression effects of aero at high speed, avoid bottoming out on elevation changes, bumps and kerbs, and not nosedive onto the stops when braking and turning, it helps to have some tension in the springs. The alternative is to raise the ride height, which usually has less advantageous effects on handling. Tuning is always about compromise. The factor that is helping in one aspect of car behaviour is often hurting in another. It’s exactly the same thing with spring rates. Having said all that, however, whatever works for you and feels right for your driving is the way you should go.
Having the same issue with my B class ZL1. I understeer into and through the turn and then have massive oversteer coming out of it which leads back into understeer and sends me into the wall. I’ve been messing with the ARBs since that is really the only upgrades you can do while keeping it as a B class. Really unrealistic since this car barely understeers in real life, hell, my SS understeers less than the ZL1 in this game.
You can put race springs, ARBs, roll cage, diff and aero on the ZL1 at B600. Fact is though you will still have a 4,000 lb car with marginal grip. It’s probably not that viable in B Class other than as a point-and-shoot.