I actually enjoy these Co-op challenges every week and have never had trouble winning them ( except for the unimog one)! Your opinion is not shared by everyone
At least the prize is just wheelspins, and they’re not hiding highly coveted exclusive content behind it that people who have trouble with the co-op trials will never get.
And they tell you what the prize is up front. So no complaints here.
No complaints here, either. Further on, I am not part of the so called every player group that the OP thinks he/she speaks for.
For dirt racing, especially muddy dirt racing. Key points of focus, and keep in mind these are also to my driving style:
Tire size and pressure
Flywheel
Differential
Brake balance to suit
Lots of info here, but is stuff that is simple to do with huge gains.
Tire size and pressure:
They go together because your tires are supension, not just handling. A higher and lower profile tire is like a stiffened suspenion, less deformation for better loading and response. But it also affects contact patch. When you go wider, it improves g loading by reducing roll, but it doesnt mean it actually will grip better. PI numbers are nominal and forza roads are not ideal. Also wider is more unsprung weight.
In terms of traction loss due to driving medium, the cross sectional length matters. A wide tire gives more bite on launch and brake but offers a narrow side loading with. Imagine a ski. Lengthwize glides over snow, sideways you stop. This type of physics is in forza.
So go a narrower tire if your longitudinal traction is good. If not getting a little spin on full throttle launch, you are prpbably hurting your handling. It will help with lateral traction and reduce unsprung weight plus save on PI. You now also can drop your tire pressure down to help with stability on bumps and rough driving medium.
There is even another advantage to a narrower tire! Mud, sand and snow. Wider tires have more resistance. So it slows you down in really soft medium. Width and medium get a bit more complex than that, but for mud, try it yourself and notice the plow effect.
Flywheel:
Offroad and rally? The more powerful your engine, the heavier flywheel you want. In S1, I wont even touch it! Reason is kinetics and gyrscopic effects. The weight is more effectively imagined as resistance to RPM change. Without resistance to revs, it is hard to keep consistent RPMs over slick, bumps and jumps. Your revs wont bounce around and that will reflect in smoother acceleration plus more consistent traction, you wont suddenly lose all traction at a minor bump. Also worth considering in road race with high torque engines. Remember, flywheel effects in this case is independent of gearing. This part is all about how engine responds in low traction, and thus low resistance moments. So high torque vs high rev is more noticeable.
Secondary flywheels of sorts in game. Wheels and driveshaft.
Differential:
Pretty much improve traction at expense of turning. When locked, you either go straight or brake loose. A high accel lock in front will mean understeer on accel/decel. Oversteer on rear. So if you find when you let off throttle and it wants to slide out in turns, but not when you get on throttle? Turn down the decel lock to help keep tire from braking loose. If you get heavy understeer or it kicks out bad when getting onto throttle exiting turn? Decel.
I had my rear decel lock at 30% for this event, but even that seemed a little aggressive for first race. Yes, I get better pull, but less stable if coming out of turn
Brakes:
If you are a racer who brakes early in turn, front bias is nice. If you are like me who brakes late into turns or trail brakes, rear bias. Rear bias keeps from understeer, but can cause back slide. So if you find yourself understeering while braking into corners, try a slight rear bias as you work on your braking time. If you keep kicking out back end when braking? A bit of front bias.
Then also practice driving. Tune brake pressure to match your habitual comfort spot when braking for corner so you are just about, but not quite locking. Locked brakes take longer to stop and no turning. Drag strip, outside car view and look sideways is a great way to find this spot. Just adjust til not locking. It is also useful to make sure front/rear isnt locking up significantly sooner than other.
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No Complaints here, other than this Trial / Championship was used in the first 2 months of the game. So it would’ve been better for an exchange of routes.
Rewards are displayed before you start it, so it your choice to either compete in it or not.
Super and regular wheelspins are RNG in the values of: (Common, Rare, Epic, Legendary). Bad luck on the roll there.
The AI isn’t as terrible as made to be with a right tune on a car (here comes the players skill into play).
Also tuning a car is also your choice, or you could take a risk run it untuned and depend on the team.
Wall grinding seems a way to go for a lot of players.
Please don’t talk for every player UNLESS you ask the complete playerbase first before you post that.
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Wish I checked times. I ran ATS and didnt even see anybody near me on map when I crossed. Player or drivertar. First time ever using that car was the trial.
Heck, my lead was nice enough that I pulled 180s and went backwards over line
Does anyone else think PG have made the unbeatable drivatars easier to beat in response to complaints about other Trial events? It was kind of mad just how easy they were to beat, I think my friend and I had passed every drivatar and were into places 1 and 2 within the first 10 seconds of the last race.
The other thing is my friend made an error and dropped back to last place, and I was able to drive 6 seconds per lap slower for Highland Farm Scramble without any drivatars overtaking me, allowing him to catch up back to 2nd place, again it just seems a bit easy for “unbeatable” standard.
I’ll add, as well, that if I race solo offline, it takes longer to pass the 3 drivatars that start ahead of me on the New Racer difficulty than it does to pass the 6 “Unbeatable” drivatars in the Trial, using the same car/tune.