Hi everyone,
I have a problem that my wheel doesn’t work as i want it to work. I play with all assists off and my car spins out almost on every corner. I need help.
All wheels do it, you have to set your cars up with massive understeer on wheels atm.
Until you get rammed in online mode and then you’re doing pirouttes no matter what.
Not true. I’m using a TX wheel with stock tunes or normal controller tunes and most cars handle fine. Throttle control on crazy high HP RWD cars is crucial or run traction control. Same as with a controller. What are you running for wheel settings?
It’s not the wheel settings, the cars actually control/handle differently on controller vs wheel. Try it.
They do handle differently with a wheel vs. controller because controller steering is nerf’d so they game is playable with a controller. Otherwise it would be like trying to play Assetto with a controller. Not fun. The OP is saying he “spins out at every corner” which isn’t normal with a wheel.
As far as normal steering vs sim, I’d stick with normal. Sim is still twitchy if you’re not used to it. And rotation is a matter of preference. I like 540 or 720. Depends on the car but either of those should suit almost anything you’ll be driving.
Tunings will differ too. I tune for Xbox and exaggerate the tunings to reduce understeer massively. At the expense of rear grip. I imagine if someone with a wheel downloaded them, they would have big problems!
What settings do u use for your tx wheel?
Here’s what I’ve got so far with the TX. Using these settings I was able to beat the seasonal challenges with the wheel so it’s functional. Not sure it’ll translate 100% to the Logitech but might be a good starting point. And I’ve been running mostly stock tunes on cars so of anything try resetting to default if a car feels abnormally bad handling.
All dead zones 0 & 100.
Steering linearity- 50
Vibration- 15 but turned off at basic menu. Crucial for off-road.
FFB Scale- 55
Center Spring- 40
Wheel Damper- 40
FFB understeer- 50
FFB Min Force- 65
Wheel Rotation- 540… Also tried 720, I prefer 540.
I like strong FFB so maybe roll off a little FFB scale if it’s too strong. Also I’ve turned off vibration lately at the first settings menu. Definitely helps for off-road but I prefer it all around now. Let me know how it works for you.
Assuming race spring upgrade or full tuning availability by default. Pick a car you’d like to drive better and do a little math in the tuning. The default rear springs are almost always too stiff.
Front spring/arb/damper value / front weight % * rear weight % = approximately balanced rear spring/arb/damper number.
Example: 53/47 distribution, front spring 420
420/53*47=372.5
Set your rear spring to that number(372.5)0.98 (365.1). It might need to be a little higher (no higher than 372.51.02) to be perfectly balanced. But it will not oversteer in most cars, and will turn in ok. You may try going lower. Same for the anti-roll bars–the default there is usually towards understeer, so they may need a stiffer rear or softer front or both.
So there is no way to fix it by game settings? only tuning?
I thought I left a comment here. Oops.
Linearity and sensitivity 50
Damper 0 for drift, up to 20 or a bit higher for racing–proper tuning should make this setting irrelevant
Centering spring 0
Understeer 100
Minimum force start at 50 and adjust.
Alternately,
Everything the same except for understeer and minimum force at 0.
Set understeer to 100. Feel it out.
Set minimum force to 100 and understeer back to 0. See how that feels.
Those 2 sliders are the only 2 sliders you should need to adjust aside from suspension tuning.
Guys there is one more question tho. What type of steering should i use normal steering or simulation and what degrees of rotation is the best?
Oh, it is, that’s why there’s threads with about 70,000 views on the subject and video’s all over youtube full of it.
At this point I don’t even know what you’re talking about. My initial post was in response to you saying that all wheels are basically glitched and cars have to be tuned with “massive understeer” to be driveable which is completely false. Not even a day ago I used my wheel with cars with stock tuning and had no issue with chronic oversteer like this person is having.
I assumed since the OP is running no assists with a controller that they have some level of experience with the game. If they mat the throttle pedal every time they turn, they’re going to oversteer. Also playing with Chase cam makes it harder to control the car. Dash or bumper cam is easier to use with a wheel. My point is I doubt there’s an issue specifically with their wheel that’s causing the problem. I’d guess either driving style or settings are responsible.
I have read the wheel guide and changed wheel settings a bit but the cars are still oversteering quite a lot. I don’t know what to do now.
How long have you had your wheel?
I have it since 2013.
Everybody can drive the cars, that doesn’t mean there aren’t issues with almost all vehicles when you are using a steering wheel having snap oversteer that isn’t present on keyboard, controller, etc.
It’s not a case of matting the throttle or anything like that, you can get it with a simple direction change, a kick off a bump on gravel, just turning into a corner, etc.
Even if you set the front dampers to incredibly hard compared to the rear it still oversteers on a flick if you run sim steering, where it should just scrub the front tyres.
It’s nothing to do with driving skill or what you can control - any speed zone I want to try I can usually run either at the top or at least in the top 30 or so even without spending time setting up for it, I can drive in the game, but that doesn’t mean it doesn’t have serious issues when it comes to what it’s doing on a wheel.
Gotcha. That’s exactly the reason I don’t use sim steering. Same with FM7 but I get snap oversteer with both the controller and the wheel. Using normal steering with either game and the TX wheel has been much better especially since the latest FM7 update.