Has tuning changed a ton from FM4?

Finally got XB1 + FM6… got some veteran cash and cars and I want to get back into my groove. I got tuning down pretty nicely in FM4; have things changed much with FM6? Specifically spring/shock tuning. I found some pretty effective & fool proof formulas for setting shock & spring baselines.

tuning has not changed much at all since fm2 . still all the same menus , the only major change from fm4-6 is camber i think the general max is -2.5 now with -1.5 being the norm . your formulas might not work like they did since they claimed fm6 has a different physics engine , but i cant tell honestly

Off a bit. I’ve seen right at -4.0, laughed a bit, and then put the car top 5 with little effort and then retracted my initial assessment. Camber well into the -3s works for many cars.

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oh that high ? yikes i guess its way off from where i was , thanks for the correction swerve :slight_smile:

It’s car dependent more so than FM5. Some cars desperately need it, some don’t, and others are fast with lower but can be made even faster with higher. Like a 97 civic is garbage with stock or low settings but a GTO is quite good with stock settings and can be made even better with your settings.

Thanks for the information on the settings especially the Camber.
I’ve been racing forza since Forza 1 in 2005 with the Fanatec Speedster wheel for the original Xbox 1.
I finally got Forza 6 and the XBOXONE S for Christmas.

I depend on racing with a wheel and received a ThrustMaster Ferrari 458 Spyder wheel. It is not a perfect wheel For Forza 6 with no Force Feedback and a rubber band to keep the wheel centered, but it will have to do till I can get a better one.

I am handicapped with only 2 fingers on my right hand is why the Controller is difficult to use. I have the thumb and index finger on the right hand, but I get along OK.

The Oval tracks are easier for me to get faster lap times.
I am currently #38 overall on the Forza 4 Leaderboards, but I don’t expect to get there in Forza 6.

Happy racing Everyone!

Edit: this post was to be intended for my other gamer tag: “EZT TomCat7”
My grandson uses the “TomC4t7” gamer tag.

I’m starting to get more and more up to speed. I’ve just been focusing on A class for now but I’ve been able to get a decent range of cars to stop and turn nicely. For sport tires there seems to be a pretty clear formula for spring and shock rates… for springs you want the rate to be about 2/3 the corner weight… so if you have a car that’s 2600lb with a 50% weight distribution, each corner is gonna have 675lbs, so you can start your springs at 450lb/in. For rebound/bump I’m finding the most stability by just dividing the spring rate by ~65/130.

Tuning braking is stupid easy with the built in benchmarking… I leave distribution at 50% for most cars and just adjust the strength until I get the shortest stopping distance. Usually 75% will do it on sport tires. Then I back off a hair to mitigate locking. Getting up to speed bit by bit… once I’m competitive in lobbies again I might write a guide.

For brakes, the best method is to get up to speed and slowly lock up the brakes. Adjust until front and rear lock up togather. Since I like trail brake into the corner, I will then start to adjusting to suit to my taste.
Brake pressure depends on your assist and taste l. DON’T USE THE BENCHMARK NUMBER unless your a forza robot driving with all assist on. Most people I know run north of 120psi. I run 200 psi if I’m using racing brakes.

Spring rates seam to be higher than normal.

Thanks for this. I always lowered brake pressure as I read you’d have more “resolution” in the trigger. This made me miss understand how BP works. Thinking a higher value would have the same effect as shortening the deadzone. I gave 120 a try on the LaFerrari and was surprised to find more confidence on the brakes.

I’m sure the more I get used to it the more BP I’ll want.

A lot of experienced players actually use higher brake pressures for that reason. It is much easier to find and consistently hit the catch-point of the brakes in a higher pressure than a lower one. However it literally is all down to preference. Think of it more like the sensitivity setting in an fps game.

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I’m glad to heard that. I honestly don’t fell huge difference between 120% to 200%.

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I drive with all assists off. I don’t like to trail brake too much… doesn’t seem to work as well in FM6 as it did in FM4. But I like to do a hard stomp to load the front end and get the car to turn in, which I can’t do if the front’s locking up. So getting brake pressure right is key for me. Everything is up to one’s tastes but this is what I’ve found works for me.

Generally 50% bais will lock the fronts first. 48% seems popular, I uses even more 46%-42%. And 52%-50% for rear-engine. Once you get use to the higher pressure, most find you can fell the threshold of grip more accurately.
I’ve heard of below 100% for ABS user’s. Most non-ABS users are higher. And I remember Crash22 switch over to a wheel and he had a lot of trouble finding a good pressure. Like you said you have to adjust for your taste. I just said the Benchanting marks braking distance mean absolute nothing, and hoping everybody know not to use it.

It’s closer to FM4 than FM5. Most cars use below -2.0 camber with some even going below -1.0. I’ve never seen a #1 time set with anything in the -2.5 and up range.

I have seen it many times but that was only in E - C class. Haven’t tracked other classes. Most recent was a #1 I set last year for a few hours (don’t judge…lmao) in a HLC. I would assume race cars wouldn’t need it.

I’ve found that Camber is directly related to the ARB settings.

a. Soft ARB’s (<15lbs) work with higher Camber
b. Stiff ARB’s (> 30lbs) work with lower Camber.

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Damping seems to work completely different. In FM4 2 of my bread and butter S class cars were the 997 GT3 and the NSX-R. I had their damping ratios similar to the weight balance and ran really good times. I tried to adapt a similar strategy with tunes in FM6… crazy oversteer and wonky issues. It seems I have to tune damping in the opposite of the weight balance to get mid/rear engine cars to be stable.

Also it seems the classes have shifted a bit… S class in FM6 seems to have more PI than S class in FM4. It’s like S Class and a half.

Have a look at my tunig guide for pointers on how to setup damping in FM6: https://forums.forzamotorsport.net/turn10_postst66660_FIFTY-INCH-s-Tuning-Guide--UPDATE-12-22--FWD-and-GP-cars-added--Damping-reworked.aspx

I checked that out, but had bad luck with it. Like with mid engine cars, if I have the springs and dampers with a rear bias, a lot of times I get annoying lift off oversteer. If I put it all front biased it just understeers. But if I mix up the ratios… set an overall rear balance with the springs and tune the dampers separate to handle transitions… seems to work really well.

Another thing I found out today which is really bizarre… in FM4 I was much faster with handling biased cars, but in FM6 I’m faster with speed biased cars. There’s like a grip threshold I can’t break through or utilize. It’s interesting to re-learn the game and my driving/tuning