I found I didn’t like lower DOR on lower class cars in FM4. I used 540 DOR for the R2 and R1 cars because I needed them to sort of dart through turns. I wanted more wheel rotation for R3 and lower because I was constantly hitting the edges of FF then falling off into the dead area.
With this new wheel and FM5 the FF is coming and going causing me to constantly try and over correct almost producing those tank slappers you’re talking about. It’s like the FF is pulsing. I want to try and get the FF consistent throughout the whole wheel rotation which ever DOR it’s set on. Last night for kicks I took the LaFerrari out on Spa just to see what a higher powered car would do and it was all over the place.
To be honest, the FFB in FM5 is not that smooth. For everything it does right at a particular setting it’s also doing something wrong( aka intrusive at low speed hairpin turns). If you run ffb to low it has no road feel and weak lateral grip, if you set too high it doesn’t smooth out the softer nuances enough hence why it is jerking the wheel on FWD or resisting to much on slow speed hairpins.
It’s still fun though lol
I run 65 FFB
900 degrees(540 for p and x)
Sim steering and Normal steering (FWD normal)
99 and zero deadzones
I also set the wheel linearity to ‘2 flashes’ by pressing mode and paddle up. this setting does not save
Yeah smooth is definitely not a word I would use to describe it so far. About an hour or so after I posted last I saw a youtube video from Inside Sim Racing that discussed TX 458 settings on Xbox One FM5 and he mentioned taking the DOR down to increase center feel which I think is what I’m describing. He said Turn 10 said to take race cars down to about 330 and open wheelers even lower to 270. I kind of figured open wheelers would need to be that low but I haven’t got that far into the game yet to have any experience with them. I also haven’t driven anything FWD yet but if I play tonight I’m going to fluctuate around with the DOR settings just to see what that does.
So far I can tell the game might be some fun. I don’t think it’s going to be as fun as FM4 was because of the community things and other areas but that’s a different post for a different thread
Very good for the price I love mine but haven’t used another rig before. I think I have like 150 in mine. Although I took my seat from a car in my garage because my drivers side seat was stolen I had one seat left so it went to good use. I think it took me 3 hours to build it I didn’t glue mine yet but there is a how to video and review on the same site if your interested its in the same sub forum.
You don’t need to hold the brake for 3 seconds anywhere, you do need to fully depress the brake once during the countdown on the grid of the frist race of your session. On subsequent races the pedals will remain calibrated until you exit FM5.
You also don’t need to start the game with the controller. Just power up the XBox using the button on the front panel. Once the dashboard is up, connect the wheel.
True but you do need to do the controler/wheel sign-in dance if you want to use your headset for voicechat, best leave your controler wired to the X1 to prevent it from switching off.
I got my T3PA’s yesterday and got them installed along with the TH8A shifter. Took me nearly 3 hours to get everything fixed while it only took the Wheel Stand Pro guy about 10 minutes total on their videos. I still don’t have the wires concealed very neatly but after fooling around with it for so long I just gave up and zip tied them top and bottom to the stand.
The T3PA pedals were so much worth the investment just for the brake feel alone. Right now I’ve got too much lockup but that should go away as I get more used to the feel. I’m going to take the wider brake pedal off of the stock pedals and put on the T3PA’s just to see how that feels because a couple of times I felt like I was searching around for the pedal with my foot. I need to read up and see how to shorten the throw of the clutch pedal.
The TH8A shifter is going to take some time to get used to. Let me change that, a LOT of time to get used to. I really think it would be much better in a cockpit setup like Inside Sim Racing uses because it’s down there in a more normal car like position. On my stand it’s up there high at wheel level and so far it’s quite difficult to reach that high up and precisely hit those gates. Last night I had a bunch of shifts into neutral or back down into 1st trying to hit 3rd. Right now I’m at least 3 seconds slower using the manual clutch than with the flappy paddles.
