I’m wondering if other users are experiencing these or if it’s just me what I need to do.
The wheel violently spins on startup and when I use rewind. And I mean it spins fast. The first time it happened I barely got my fingers out of the way. It also seems like that motor won’t be around long if that wheel spins around that fast all the time. The fast spinning also is causing the wheel to collapse down from my stand and I have to keep tightening it up.
I’m guessing this wheel can’t be a wireless controller like my Fanatec was?
Is the only way to change settings to hook it up to my computer?
Speaking of changing settings how and where do you do it? The reason I ask that is that I’ve got a TON of force feedback. It feels like it’s set at 200%. It makes a car so stiff that it reminds me of a 1970 Chevrolet truck or something else that doesn’t have power steering. Going down to the first turn at Long Beach for example on that long right turn, you can’t hold that turn because the wheel is pulsing back the other direction. Sometimes the kickback the other direction causes a spinout. I’ve tried normal and simulation steering and there doesn’t seem to be any difference between them. It’s also so stiff it’s made my wrists sore from trying to manhandle cars around.
The standard pedals stink. I’ve got some T3PA’s ordered and they can’t get here soon enough. The brake is either all or nothing. It’s like you’re stepping on a rubber ball.
How do you keep the wires off of your feet? There are three wires coming off the back and they come straight off the back. They are hanging down by the pedals and I have to be very careful not to catch them. The Fanatec wires came off the right side and since it was wireless that was one less wire.
How do you know what the buttons do on the GTE rim? Because I’ve had to guess and there is a square looking option button on the tuning setup manager so you can pick an uploaded tune and it’s in the paint section to pick an uploaded paint so I really need to know how to select that. I can’t even figure out what that button is on the controller.
The wheel is supposed to spin like that when you first cut it on. The wheel is calibrating itself, don’t grab it. When you decide to hit the rewind button, firmly hold the wheel while game is rewinding. Wheels used to play FM3 & FM4 on Xbox 360 did same thing on rewind.
The TX has a wired connection only. Go to Thrustmaster official Facebook page or website to see generic mapping of buttons on GTE or F1 rim. In reference to your button questions, the bottom 2 buttons on left of GTE rim is equivalent to 2 buttons under white Xbox button on controller.
I recommend you pick up Wheel Stand Pro Deluxe V2 (you need deluxe V2 since you getting T3PA pedals) to mount your set up to. I have standard wheel stand pro v2 & I have zero issues with anything coming a loose. Plus comes with zip ties to fasten wires.
Make sure when you first go into Forza, hold the brake pedal for 3 seconds by itself to calibrate it. You have to do this every time you cut wheel on.
When you are at the controller menu in FM5, hit X button to go to advanced controller set up, there you can lower FFB if it’s too strong for you.
You can only change DOR (also can be changed pressing left or right on D pad & mode button at same time) FFB & Vibration in controller advanced menus of game. Along with you accel, decel, & steering (should be set to 0-100). Settings you change on PC will only work with games on PC.
Are you sure you should hold the wheel while it’s rewinding? Won’t that damage it? I know not to hold it on startup. My Fanatec GT2 wheel would also spin on rewind but not near as fast as this new one.
Ok I’ll do that, thanks.
That’s the model I do currently have. I’ve just really had to cinch that upper piece tight a few times to keep it from drooping down.
Do you do this before you load the disc or while it’s loading? The reason I ask is that I’ve also had trouble loading the disc. It will tell me it’s an invalid disc but if I try it a few more times it will eventually load but in three times playing this past weekend it only loaded straight up once.
Ok thanks for that. I knew it had to be in there somewhere.
Is this where you are supposed to fix those deadzones I’ve heard about? Are there any wheel setting suggestions listed anywhere? For FM4 I found some suggested settings and just tweaked them a little.
How are you supposed to hold the wheel still on rewind? I might be a little bias on this because my right arm has been damaged for over a year and first wheel setup I have ever had but I have tried to rewind before and most of the time its ripping my arms loose if a small kid did this they could get hurt. Why cant we disable that I mean I dont like me arms getting man handeled I quit using it but every now and then I forget and it really messes with my bad arm.
Ok I’m gaining on it thanks to everyone’s help here. I found out how to get into the advance controller settings. Got the FF dialed back, adjusted the accel and decel settings. Got it where the car is more drivable now. It’s still got what I would describe as a dead spot going straight ahead where the car weaves slightly from side to side like a car with a worn out steering box or rack. You can feel there’s no FF assist. Also if anyone has ever driven a car in real life with variable assist power steering where you have full assist at highway speeds and virtually nothing in a parking lot, that’s what I’ve got at say the hairpin at Long Beach. If that’s the way it’s supposed to be it will just take some getting used to coming from a wheel that had full FF all the time.
I still don’t understand the thing about holding the brake down at startup to calibrate it though. But last night was the first time the disc loaded the first time I tried it so it kind of caught me off guard. Next time I’ll have to try and hold the brake down while the game is starting up to see what that does.
I did learn one valuable lesson though and that is to check the connections at the rear of the wheel EVERYTIME I get ready to play because apparently everytime I collapse the stand for storage the connections can jiggle loose just a bit.
Finally broke down last month and got XBone and the TX wheel… Please explain… for me I have to start game with gamepad and then the wheel lights up. Once the game starts, I can hold the Xbox button and then turn off the controller. OK, now no controller is connected… I then have to press “A” for it to load a profile with a “Choose this person”
Then press “A” again… So is this when I hold the Brake for 3 seconds???
I have the FFB and vibration set to 50. It’s way too strong for my liking at 100%. I have a Fanatec CSL wheel stand. It works great for the TX. The stand is heavy and very solid. No movement at all. Th pedals screw to the base and the wheel screws to the top plate. I haven’t used the Wheel Stand Pro so I can’t really comment on it. It doesn’t look as good to me from the photos and it cost way more with shipping to get to me in Canada. Anyhow, I highly recommend the Fanatec CSL wheel stand. I need to get a GTE wheel as the stock TX rim is a POS.
I have driven a couple car’s like that one that I remember clearly was a z4 I cant remember which model because I drove a lot of them but if I remember they were all like that super stiff at speed and in a parking lot so light. If im remembering right it had electric steering pump so it was all electronic. Also there is another setting for the wheel for sensitivity I never use it but its on thrustmasters website and so is the auto clutch settings. Might be easier to go on there thrustmaster x team Facebook page and there are post for all the features just go down the post till you find what you’re looking for.
O okay sensitivity does no good for that I would adjust the dor down. Mine has not enough dead area the lower you go down on the dor. The lowest dor is insane for a sloppy car its like insane tank slap on a bike if you know what I mean. Sorry its kinda hard to explain this on a phone keyboard without it taking forever.