Hello all! Okay, so I’m somewhat new to Forza games. While I’m definitely no master I feel like I am pretty good at tuning. I have several drift cars on FH2 which work extremely well for me. However, a couple things I am still having issue with;
First off gear ratios. I make due, but I do feel like some of my cars have potential that because of my lack of knowledge are not running at their potential. Highest on this list is the EM1 Honda CTR with the 1.4 Turbo Rally engine in it. Some of my friends told me that the 1.4TR is a pointless swap, because the engine is crap, but I’m not convinced. On the subject of the CTR, it seems with both of the other engines (stock and the 2L) that the car falls on it’s face HARD. I’ve seen a couple 600+HP Civics IRL and they seemed much quicker. Also, only 220mph? I suppose I could be asking too much from a Civic here, but it seems a little low for the massive power that little 4cil makes.
Secondly, Tires. Is it just me or does FH2 respond very little to tire compound/pressure except in extremes? 26PSI in the rear of a drift car feels very much the same as 34? Also, Race or Stock for offroad (no road at all)?
Lastly, I miss being able to sell cars.
Appreciate the advice in advance. Please be kind, this is my first post here after all.
The first thing you have to think about gears is p.i. ,if its under 6 or 7 points to upgrade then go for a race transmission.if your a drifter i woud guess you want to keep your final drive as short as possible without losing max imum speed .again i’m only guessing, but i would try lengtening 1st 5th and 6th and keeping 2 3 and 4th tight so your redlining quickly in these gears.
In this game lots of cars will get bogged down on launch without correct gear tuning. A lot of people seem to be final drive tuning so top gear hits the far right of the gear graph.
Problem is a lot of cars hit their aero limited or hp limited top speed well before then and 1st gear when you do that means the car gets bogged down on launch or even stalls.
What I do is upgrade my cars to around 20 PI short of the class limit. I then go to tuning and look at the gear graph. If there are any massive gaps in gearing then I will upgrade to a closer ratio gearbox. If top gear looks to top out at a speed that I think sells the car short then I got for an adjustable gearbox.
Also note that if you do a drivetrain swap you get an adjustable final drive. This is all before I drive it. I will adjust things after driving it - the above is just to set what I start my test drive with.
No engine in this game is totally useless as long as the gears are tuned correctly and you change at the right spot which may or may not be the rev limiter.
I pretty much never upgrade compounds in this game but others do. In a rivals challenge between clubs #1 and #3 used upgraded compound, I used stock in #4. I am not sure what #2 used. These are world rankings. Really depends what works for you.
It sounds like I have a very similar system to SatNiteEduardo when I first start upgrading a car. Looking at the gear graph gives me an idea if the race transmission is needed after I upgrade almost to the PI limit for the class, but leaving room for either the race transmission or more power.
One caveat, though. When I’m making runs at leaderboard top spots in cars without a lot of power, on tracks that require grip over raw power, I almost always use a race transmission regardless of what the gear graph looks like. The D class '65 Mini Cooper, for example … using a race transmission and adjusting the gear ratios so that I’m always in the power band coming out of corners cut about 5 seconds off of 2 minute races for me. If I were to forego the race transmission for more power, it wouldn’t be worth it. For a lot of these low-powered cars, engine upgrades are usually pretty expensive in terms of PI but 2 or 3 extra horsepower isn’t going to give the same bang for the PI buck that adjusting the gear ratios for a specific track would. Carrying speed out of corners leads covering the straights quicker.
Cars with more horsepower don’t quite benefit as much because a 500+ hp car is going to be able to pull a hill, for example. If you try to pull a hill in a D class car without a great stock gearing package, you might not be able to keep your momentum.
Quick note on gear tuning, I have been using the forzatune app on iPhone, started as a handling calculator but had a gear tuner added to it, the handling parts works well enough as a base for many cars but usually takes a bit of tweaking (actually always takes tweaking) but the gear calculator I think works wonders. So long as you take a couple of minutes working out your redline rpm and the rpm for peak torque accurately which isn’t hard then you usually get a pretty good reading of where to set your gears to stay within the power band. Only downside is that you have to have the race trans installed. I then usually adjust the final drive for slightly closer ratio shifting but that’s preference for me. Anyone else used this calculator?