Tires: I adjust based on how grippy the car feels. More PSI = less grippy tire, really use this for the fronts.
Higher hp tunes - lower starting psi. 30-35 for any car 200-400 hp. then for every 80-100 hp, lower psi on rears by 1. 700 hp… 27 psi. 900 hp… 25 psi. I always keep front Psi’s around 30-32, and increase if I feel fronts are too grippy. If they aren’t responsive enough, drop that psi down. Tires = important
Gears: Based upon power imo, more hp = longer gears, typically keep short for easier tire spin, you’ll be able to feel this out and adjust as you like. Keep 3rd as you’re main drifting gear, and keep fourth close to it. make your first/second gears a bit longer at start. Gears are all personal preference.
Allign.: Negative camb. between 1.5 and 3. typically fronts with about .5-1 more camb than the rear.
- Don’t use positive camber , you could, but I don’t. Most tournaments don’t allow + camb.
Toe.: This is where I changed a little. In F 5, I ran 0 toe in the rear and around .5 + toe in front. Now in Horizon, I find it easier to slip the tires with -.5 toe in the rear, and I use this almost universally on all my cars. I may increase a bit more toe, but never exceeding -1 degree, cuz of speed ( tire contact is decreased w/ more camber, if you think about it )
A lot of my tunes have -.5 degree toe in rear, 0 degree toe in front.
Caster: 6-7, universally
ARBS:, I typically run their stiffness based on car weight and also %. 52% 2200, probably 17.5 Front 16 R, to allow the 2% difference in car weight. Balance is key to a solid drift. I always adjust these while sliding to get a better feel for my ARB settings. This helps with holding and maintaining angle while in a slide. Typically you want a slight unbalance towards the front of the vehicle, and you’ll want your car’s hp to provide the grip to control that unbalance as you countersteer to hold your drift. Mechanical teamwork.
Springs ^ tuned based on car weight %, 52% front on a 2200 lbs car would have a suspension rate of around 540:500 imo, maybe less if you decided to math out the weight , but i don’t feel like doin that, so i take educated guesses. - Ratio’d upon the car. Weight / 4 tires = spring weights. Keep in mind unsprung weight and what not if you want to get mathicals. I prefer a balanced suspension and an unbalanced damping.
Ride height: rise up! typically .5 in higher in front, universally. You’ll notice a 0-60 increase if you bump ur ride height up instead of slamming it, although tempting
Damping: Run stiff, stiff is the key to sliding. I’d run 9.5 FR (front rebound) 8.5BR, 8.3FB(Front bump) 7.3RB, just to create an imbalance. I’d use these damps for a 52%,2200lbs car. Stiffer springs is sort of like increasing tire pressure, it’ll make those tires slip easier. For heavier vehicles I run higher and stiffer bump ratios, but everything is ratio’d upon car weight and distribution %. keep that in mind as you tune.
Nearly all grip issues can be solved by increasing stiffness / adjusting tire psi. Keep your hp and car weight in mind.
Aero: don’t use this - don’t need this grip.
Brake: if im tandeming, i’ll reduce pressure to 90% and move balance 45% towards rear, so my car is easier on the brakes while getting on someones door and my tires won’t lock up. Also allows for more break control for hard drifting.
Ease on the brakes rather than slamming on them.
Brake drifting in the rain makes you feel masterful. Throw in the clutch kick, and you might forget about you’re e brake for a while until you’re sliding too fast into a corner.
Just practice, there’s more initiations than just the E-brake.
Diff. 60% accel, 0-5% decel, preference. some decel in rear makes car roll thru corners easier. That locked life, tho.
hope this helped homie.
- Driftin Snorlax (DKz) (Drift Kazoku) (Drift Family)
Get on my door, Drift Lounge.
If you post and want to slide, I will add you, believe that.