I’m still in the fine-tuning process, (A800), but the car even now is very capable both on and off-road. The rally tires are only an extra 2PI above stock, which makes me want to do way more testing with the stock tires, despite choosing rally tires as of now.
My tune thus far has it around:
0-60mph in 2.4 seconds
0-100mph in 5.7 seconds
Top Speed of 174mph with rear aero set in the middle
AWD
Rear Aero, (God-awful contraption, but needed the PI)
225 front tires/265 rear tires
19" front & rear rims
7 speed transmission
Race Driveline
Rally Diff
Rally Suspension
Race ARBS
Sport Weight Reduction
Race Cams/Valves
Removed Restrictor Plates
Although I rarely opt for sport weight reduction, it actually fit nicely into the 800PI limit. One could opt for more of a power build by choosing off-road tires which reduces PI by 8, ditching the sport weight reduction, then adding turbo. Tons of options really. Overall, I think this car has great potential and it’s enjoyable to drive.
On asphalt, the huge wing is a major speed penalty. Handling is great buy you’ll get smoked by everyone else. It’s better to good at driving the car with stock aero. Avoid tuning for double duty on-road and off-road because the car ends up uncompetitive at both.
I always go for the option to keep the car planted, while it may sacrifice top speed its good for cornering as you always get the fools who go for power over handling and will be slipping and sliding all over the place on corners so you can go sailing by, that’s always fun.
The car can fly around corners with stock aero in A class. The stock drivetrain is the issue. Upgrading and tuning the drivetrain is the fix for the car coming unglued mid-turn.
Doing Easter with the fam right now, but if I get time later today I’ll go back over every upgrade exactly. I see now I made no mention of engine or trans upgrades, and I’m certain I upgraded both.
@Alasdair, did you increase rim size for both front & back? That should lower your PI.
Without looking, I’m assuming what I didn’t mention was that I put heavier rims on it to lower the PI, but as I said, I will update later to confirm.
I’ll share the diff settings as well as alignment/arbs/springs, etc., and hopefully it helps with your turn-in issue. Pretty sure I lowered the front decel by a few ticks, lowered front springs barely, and lowered front arbs as well. That alone will improve turn-in. As I mentioned in my OP though, it’s a work in progress. I haven’t even had a chance to test for bump & rebound changes. Lowering your front rebound and raising front bump could get you the turn-in you seek.
Incidentally, these are the type of discussions I was hoping to find in the tuning section, but it seems the vast majority are for tuners promoting their tunes, not that there’s anything wrong with that…I just enjoy learning from and sharing with other tuners in the hopes of improving overall.
I know I upgraded the trans because I spent some time with the gearing. I’ll also include all those numbers. That will make the biggest difference out of everything, as well as making sure your center diff is biased towards the rear at approx 69%, (from memory).
Thanks for your input. When I get this complete, maybe you could try it to let me know if you think it’s competitive, despite the rear aero. As I mentioned in the OP, I added rear aero because it was the only way to squeeze the upgrades in that I wanted.
My initial build didn’t include it, but I couldn’t find a way to lower the PI any more than I already had without adding it. When I have time though, I’ll definitely try a build without rear aero, even if it means a compromise with other wanted upgrades. If you come up with one in the meantime, please feel free to share.
Best way to lower PI is drag slicks. Start with 32psi so there’s not too much grip. Also start with stock tire width front and rear, -0.2 rear toe, and experiment.