My Wheel (no controller at all used) disconnects while going through the calibration movements. Even after hitting A to connect it doesn’t finish the calibration cycle, though it does recognize the controller after that. Not sure if that’s causing any of my issues with this system not working with the new update.
Fanatec CSW 2.5
Yes…If it doesn’t disconnect, it does a VERY violent calibration movement (I’ve learned to keep my hands away after powering on).
Once it’s done, I power it off/on and then it behaves normally.
I’ve tried powering the system on with a controller first, but no difference. It either disconnects, or tries to break my hands at wheel startup. Never mind that I still haven’t found decent FFB settings.
XBOX One X
Fanatec CSW 1.5
XBox Universal Wheel
Yup, mine too. Doesn’t matter if I turn the wheel or the Xbox on first, half the time it slams itself full-lock to the right.
Tried disconnecting the regular controller, still slams.
It did it before the FFB update, did it with the v293 firmware, did it with a P1 Elite wheel, did it with a GT3 wheel.
I just hang on to the wheel when re-connecting. I’d rather stall the motor for a split second than jerk the living daylights out of the drivetrain, paddle shifters, and button stalks.
XBox One X
Fanatec CSL Elite (v311 firmware)
XBox Universal Hub with Oval Wheel
Well good to know I’m not alone. My wheel had been trying to break my fingers but last 3 or 4 times I started it, it didn’t do it. Wheel only moves maybe 90-110 degrees before it disconnects.
I had a trouble ticket with Fanatec, but they were no help. Sent them a video of the violent movement and they wanted me to try a different XBox… Geesh you’d think as much as I paid them for their products they would be a little more interested in finding a solution internally instead of asking the customer to do product testing.
Mine doesn’t disconnect but does the other wild movements.
I’ve got the same issue as well as the FFB with the Dec 4th update causing the wheel to kickback and twitch no matter what settings I try to use. Sent the attached video to Fanatec and they say they can’t replicate the problem. Seems like a lot of people here can. I’ve got the P1 Wheel and the V2.5 Base that Fanatec says is compatible with Forza 7 even though the “Supported Wheels” on the Forza site does not include the P1 wheel with the V2.5.
Anyway, to start the wheel and not have this happen Start the Xbox with the Xbox controller. Load Forza 7 and after it loads then start the wheel and it won’t do what you see in this video.
Edit: Complete start up procedure I use:
- Start Xbox with Xbox Controller
- Start Forza 7 with Xbox Controller
3 After Forza 7 has started, then start the Wheel
- Turn off the Xbox Controller with the Xbox button on the Xbox Controller and screen display
- Log back in to Forza 7 with the Wheel A button
- Turn on the Xbox controller with the Xbox button
So you will have both the Xbox Controller and the Wheel able to control Forza 7 Functions and if you have an Xbox headset it will be active.