Forza drag tuning & setup for newbies part 1- picking a car and upgrading
So you want to start tweaking your own cars in FM4 for drag racing huh?
Well...there are two things to worry about when picking a car and upgrading it, and power ISN'T one of them...
1. weight transfer
this means you want a car with a front weight percentage of less than 50% to be fast. this is by far the most important number when it comes to setup of your car (you can find it in the cars stats by the Horsepower and Torque). The problem is that most of the cars in FM4 end up in the 52-54% front weight range. You can make them work pretty good, but your Chevelle will NEVER be as fast as the 67 corvette for example, which can achieve a sub 50% front end weight percentage.
2. weight (heavy cars suck)
this means that your Chevelle isn't really a good pick. you cant really get that car much lighter than 2900 lbs, which is about 400 heavier than Ideal. Sure in real life LOTS of people drag race chevelles and they work quite well, but this is forza 4, where the drag racing is still stuck in imaginary land. In real life people take out the alternator, move batteries to the back, fuel cells to the back, put on more fiberglass parts, y'know... stuff that you cant do in forza.
Ok, with all that said, lets move on to buying your parts. I'm using the Chevelle for an example car, because I can't think of a bigger pain in the butt to tune. This car weighs in at almost 3800lbs and it has a 59% front end weight from the factory... NO BUENO. we need to fix that.
We'll start in the engine department. were going to stay with the stock motor for this example, just so I can show you WHAT NOT TO BUY.
most of the stuff in there, you are good to buy the full race parts. except for a few...
when you get to the carburetor section, take a look at the updated stats. you look at the race carb, and you say "sweet! this gives me another 11hp!" so you buy it right? WRONG. look at how much weight it adds to the front of your car... 14lbs! buy the sport carb, it gives you 7hp, without adding ANY weight. MUCH BETTER.
especially be on the lookout for this when you get to the oil cooler upgrade and the intercooler upgrade. these almost never are beneficial to the cause, the only exception being when you are working on a rear engined car, and these add weight to the REAR.
I only buy upgrades if they provide more power than weight added. always remember, look out for #1(and 2!)^^^
just a couple more things on the upgrades for now. wings are useless, hoods are a VERY good idea, skinny front tires and the FATTEST drag tires on the driven wheels are a must. I also recommend holeshot, weld, and dymag for wheels, since they are the lightest weight.
buy all your parts full race, with the exception of those few that I mentioned earlier, sometimes they are a good idea, but most of the time they aren't.
transmission and suspension, no real exceptions here. buy the expensive stuff.
conversions are often a good idea, just keep an eye out for #1. gotta keep that weight in the back as much as possible.
well hopefully this opened up some eyes a little bit. time for me to start working on part 2, basic suspension and gearing. then in part 3 I will discuss driving technique.