Forzamotorsport.net Forums

1969 Dino

Total QuickRank Time:  178.337 seconds

mission accomplished.

1969 Ferrari Dino B Class

 

Upgrades

Avon 215/50R17

Blitz Technospeed Type03

Race Intake

Race Exhaust

Race Turbo

Forza Wing

 

Settings

Tires                 30/30

Final Drive            4.55

Camber            -1.1/-1.2

Toe                  0.1/-0.2

Caster              5.6

ARBs               18.47/13.97

Springs            355.7/361.2

Ride Height            4.2/4.2

Rebound            9.2/8.4

Bump               7.6/6.5

Aero                100lbs (less for fast tracks)

Brakes             47%Front /110% pressure

Differential            60/50



I ran a ton of races against rooms with all kinds of B Class cars. The Dino will keep up with just about anything unless you're on a muscle track like Sebring. I was consistently in the hunt for the lead unless wrecked by someone and usually in the lead mid way through lap one.

For the muscle tracks, you're going to have to build a version with stock tires and 600hp. There's just no way to get close to a 2:13 on Sebring unless you go for massive power. The setup listed above will run consistent 2:17s.

Been watching this thread with interest as I've been using a dino in B class for a cpl of weeks now, was just a quick and dirty flung together car but was competitive and a change from the usual B class culprits - anyway itching to try your tune but not on til Thursday now, got an upcoming B class tournie on Mugello long, any chance you can fly round the track and let me know what kind of time you get?

I can do 1:57's in the 206 or Focus ST & 1:58's in the elise 135R but really want to use my Dino if it can keep up, unfortunately that now means being able to do 1:56's and I'm hoping the dino might be able to do this as it has a gd balance (it seems) between handling and speed - its either the dino or the mugen integra as there is no way I'm using a 206 lol

If you're a better driver than I am, you can apply these settings to an earlier version with more power and less grip. My final version is tuned specifically to deal with my driving style. A really gerat driver might want more horsepower, especially on Mugello Long.

Alternate Upgrade Setup
(all parts same unless otherwise specified)

American Racing Torque Thrust Wheels
Street Turbo
Street Intercooler
Race Block
Sport Ignition
Sport Fuel
Race Exhaust
Sport Intake

Switching to these parts and changing your FD to 4.60 will net you 2 tenths of a second or a bit more to the 0-60mph and 0-100mph benchmarks. This setup was put together after the Quickrun, so I didn't post it coz I ain't tried it!

A friend of mine named bazdc2 just ran away from me on Mugello Long in a Dino that was slower than mine. He was running 1:57.xxx and he said he hadn't tuned it at all.

Good stuff thnx for the info - I'll be having a shot myself in about 9 hours, I'll let you know how I get on with my existing set-up and then I'll swap it to yours

I'm convinced that with tuning and a top notch driver this car can turn at least a 1:56.xxx on Mugello in B Class. I'm very interested in your results!

If you ask baz nicely, maybe he can show you his line around the track.

Eeeek that wasnt much fun. !:59's for both my original dino (with its *** sliding all over the place) and eventually a 1:59 with your tune.

Is a bit funny driving someone else tune, I said eventually previously cos I kept running wide on the downhill section of mugello long, specifically the left hander, where you would turn right for the short version. Normally this is a full throttle corner..

The car doesnt seem to want to turn in and hold a tight line, I'm having to ease off to keep on the line and my ghost is pulling away on each corner (focus ST) I'm loathed to start messing about myself - what would you suggest tweaking to reduce this slight understeer?

M14EYD:

The car doesnt seem to want to turn in and hold a tight line, I'm having to ease off to keep on the line and my ghost is pulling away on each corner (focus ST) I'm loathed to start messing about myself - what would you suggest tweaking to reduce this slight understeer?

Loosening the front antirollbar (or tightening the rear one) maybe? Seems the least "intrusive" way to fine tune general over/under tendencies, unless you're using downforce. Raising the rear ride height could also work wonders.

I miss my xbox now

---

GT: PzR Ske

downforce limited to a rear spoiler on this - I'll go have a play with the ARB's cheers

If you feel that the car is understeering too much, there are a couple of ways to adjust it.

The first thing I would try is taking the rear downforce to minimum.

The second thing I would try is removing the rear wing completely. If you can handle it in the corners, it's going to help you on the straights.

If neither of those options appeals to you or is working for you, I would set toe to zero front and rear and run it again.

I appreciate any and all suggestions on this build. If you feel like you might have an idea that would work, please try it out and post the results! If you don't have an xbox but can't help thinking about cars, you're welcome to post too. I welcome the advice and potential contributions of the community.

I can't guarantee that my setup is the fastest Dino setup out there. I can guarantee a QuickRank of less than 180 seconds when driven by someone of mediocore ability (myself). By working with all of you, maybe we'll get closer to the Leaderboard Clones.

I am currently experimenting with adding more grip to the setup. It will probably be better for hotlaps but I don't think it will be better at the typical 3-4 lap sprints that you find in any given online room. Beating the wreck in turn one can be just as important as running faster.

What do you expect raising the rear ride height would do?

 

phew - thought I was going mad, had a play with ARB's, rear ride height, spring rates, diff settings and all I succeeded in doing was loosening the back end rather than improving turn in - then I started thinking maybe I've just turned p 1 sh at driving overnight so I built an integra and took it round mugello in 1:56.168 - top 200 (just) so back to the dino and improving it.

I love grip/handling and from racing the integra round it has both, lower top speed than the dino. what were your thoughts on making the dino more grippy - one thing I would lose is the race brakes btw, stock should be fine. I like your original build in that it wasnt tail happy and didn't slide, I just couldnt get it to hold a tight line - perhaps the lack of front downforce or maybe some weight reduction? I want the dino to be a quick car cos I love racing online with it cos no-one else uses it!

 

To add grip to the Dino:

1) add width to the tires. I think the Dino has a max width of 225. My latest build uses 215s.

2) lose weight. Simple equation here, sacrifice power to lose weight.

I would not recommend downgrading the brakes. It doesn't cost you enough PI to make a difference anyway.

I turned the downforce to minimum and ran a 1:58.xxx after 6 laps.

An interesting thing occured while tuning. I tried swapping upgrades around and installed, then uninstalled race weight reduction. The resultant settings were not the same ones I had begun with for springs, ARBs and dampers. Basically, the game softened everything a little. I decided to try it before I returned it to my setup and for laughs added a ton to the rear ride height. That was how it sat when I ran the 1:58.xxx.

It's entirely possible that I've set certain things a little stiffly and that this is costing me a little traction.

To test this theory I took the car to Maple Valley and turned a 1:35.xxx, NOT what I was hoping for and 2 seconds behind the 2000GT time.

Hoplee:

An interesting thing occured while tuning. I tried swapping upgrades around and installed, then uninstalled race weight reduction. The resultant settings were not the same ones I had begun with for springs, ARBs and dampers. Basically, the game softened everything a little. I decided to try it before I returned it to my setup and for laughs added a ton to the rear ride height. That was how it sat when I ran the 1:58.xxx.

I noticed that too last night. I built two different GT 500's one with the big weight reduction and one with the middle. When I went to set them up the spring rates were almost 100 lbs different. I've heard that the spring rate changes when you change rim diameter. I guess the game is compensating for the weight/rotating mass changes.

I would like to know if it done by a ratio or a flat number adjustment. That would explain why one part change has a drastic effect on handling. It might "luck" into a better feeling set up.

---

House of D2XL &
The Late Model Muscle Series

forza-tuning.net

The adjustments made by the game don't make much sense to me at all. It's not as if it softened everything by the same percentage. It changed all my spring, ARB and damper settings AND their relations to each other. I started with the back and front almost even on spring rates. After the game fuggered them, the rear was softer than the front by about 20 lbs.

It was a change I had wanted to try anyway so I ran with it, but ended up adjusting it closer to my original settings to get the feel I wanted back.

I appreciate the game TRYING to adjust automatically to changing upgrades. I WISH it maintained their relative relationships. Instead, it's doing something more complicated than simply shrinking rates by the same percentage that your weight decreased. I call it 'fuggering'

Hi Hoplee

I got your message at silly o'clock last night (4am) had just one more race syndrom for about 3 hours lol. Anyhow have sent you a FR and a wee message over

I guess that saving good set ups or documenting them is going to be very important. I would like to know what kind of relationship the auto adjustments follow. But that would be like asking a third grader how to do calculus.

---

House of D2XL &
The Late Model Muscle Series

forza-tuning.net