Hello, I thought with the whole new bunch of people who got in the forza wagon lately, maybe I could repay the community by writing a tuning guide for beginners. I keep seeing people with good will but bad methods. Tuning is a very demanding aspect of this game and if you don't start right, you'll probably end up quitting as it can get very boring by the absence of result.

 

first off, I want to apologize for my english, this is not my native language so it might be hard to read (hopefully not to understand) at times. Now, let's get started shall we?

 

 

What you need to get started

first, you need a few things before you get started.

- basic understanding of how suspension, geometry and transmission work. use the internet, google, magazines etc... try to figure out what does what in a suspension, bump, rebound, camber, toe etc... there are a few important ground rules here. It's not a big deal if you don't fully understand that now, but you MUST have at least a slight understanding of these things before you start playing with them.

 - you also need decent driving skills, you need a home course, a track where you can be regular with any given car. For me, it was tsukuba (long) and fujimi kaido, back in forza 1. Tsukuba is ideal because the lap is very short (around 1 minute) and pretty easy to remember/learn, so if you are regular, you can easily see if the modifications you made improved the handling or not. 

- you also need a nice straight to help you tune the gearbox, we'll get back there. I like the nurburgring, but benchmark oval is very nice in forza 3.

 

 

 

Good starting choices

Allright, now we can get started on tuning itself, first you need a car. Of course, powerfull cars are nice do drive, but I really, really recommend one of the lower classes. Now that we're in forza 3, I would say, get an F or E class car and aim for a D or C class once tuned and upgraded.
Here's why: if you start with a lower class, you will not be able to use all the racing upgrades, you will have to choose, depending on what you plan to do with the car.

[EDIT] With forza 3 brand new physics engine, it could be also interresting to take a car that's already good as standard and close to the class's PI limit, then just install a minimal amount of parts. This way you still have the feeling of how the original car handles but with competitive performance for online racing.

for example: C class BMW E36, C class Toyota supra MKIV, C class Skyline GTR (32/33/34)

 

Upgrading the car

Even tho we talk about "tuning", to me, the most crucial element in forza tuning is how you can pick up the right parts for the right project.
There are some ground rules here. You want to be able to adjust any value, so before anything else, you want to buy the race suspensions and anti roll bars, I would also recommend some transmission parts, such as the gearbox (an adjustable one) or the LSD, some cars have very good LSD as standard, so if you don't plan to boost the engine, you might be fine with a stock LSD.

 

[EDIT] As for today, I don't use racing gearbox and clutch all the time anymore, for most cars, if you use standard or close to standard engine, the standard gearbox/clutch will do the job. This way you can save alot of PI points to put elsewhere. Specially if you play with manual + clutch, the shift time is less of an issue regarding to what you can do with the saved PI Points

 

then, you might want to upgrade the tires, keep in mind, most standard tires will do just fine with a standard engine, if you want to tune a car for high speed tracks such as the nurburgring, you can achieve alot of grip just by tuning the suspension and geometry alone. The tires choice is directly related to what you want to do with your car. Short tracks will require alot more grip and responsiveness, therefore you might want to upgrade the tire compound and width. But if it's high speed you're after, then you can leave the stock tires or only upgrade up to sport or street tires with a limited width.

 

[EDIT] The optimal tire section is between 80mm and 100mm, so you might want to adjust tire width and rims size according to this.

for example: 245/30/18
245*0.30=73.5mm -> too small

245/35/17
245*0.35=85.7mm -> it's good

try and keep the section between 80 and 100mm for an ideal handling

 

Car weight  and stiffness are also related to the car's planned use. A lighter car will provide a much better acceleration, but top end speed will not be that affected. But if you go for a heavier car, you will have problems taking the slower corners and you will have to compensate (or not) with geometry and suspension settings.

[EDIT] In forza 3, it's easier to compensate the weight with tuning, but the weight also has more incidence on the car than in FM2, it's a matter of personnal choice here, mix and match weight/tires etc... in order to figure out what works for you.

 

Engine upgrades
Well, I'm sorry I'm not very helpfull here, because I'm trying to figure out (or find out what's new) the new FM3 system. But basically, you can chose your upgrades depending on what you're after, if you want low end torque, high end power, use the graphs and do some testing here. But keep in mind that a more powerfull engine will need better traction than a stock engine, so if you don't upgrade your tires or aero along with the engine, you might get in trouble, it's a matter of give or take here, specially for speed tunes where you want some power but you can not put to much grip in order to stay in the class you want. C class speed tune is a good exercise for this.

[EDIT] it turned out that I very much enjoy the displacement upgrade, adds a little bit of everything on all the power/torque curve and doesn't add much PI points usually. if you like high revving engine, you want to try out the cams, but you might then have to tune the gearbox (meaning you might have to upgrade it, so use a few PI points for this)

 

Aero upgrades
Since I like nice looking cars, and since I really like low class cars, I tend to just use the aero I want. Forza/Adjustable aero is not really needed in the lower classes, unless you're after a pure grip monster (lightweight, slicks, aero in lower classes), the regular aero, or even stock aero will do just fine. Again, with forza aero your top speed WILL be harmed pretty badly, specially if you don't have much power.

 

 

 

Tuning
Despite the topic's title, I will NOT explain every aspect of tuning here, there are already alot of sites (I believe feuerdog has a link in his signature) explaining how it works. It's pretty much the same as it is in real life, only a bit easier and MUCH faster. But again, let me tell you the few ground rules.

• ALLWAYS Start by a basic gearbox tune, go on Benchmark speedway and you must reach your top speed right before the redzone in 6th gear, adjust the final drive alone. (keep a little space in the redzone for drafting and some very fast downhill sections like the nurburgring, if you go for a short track car, you can shorten the gears later, but for now you want a solid ground)
  
• be REGULAR on your test track of choice, before you start touching anything, make sure you can do 4 or 5 laps in a row, within the same second.
• once you know the basics, you can throw in a basic "by nose" tune to begin with, or you can use a calculator.
• then try to "feel" the car, try to understand the reactions and their cause(s). Like for understeering, it can come from geometry settings (toe in for example), or suspension setting, if under acceleration, your weight shifts too much to the rear, leaving the front too light, it could hurt your steering, learn to understand the causes and effects.
• then, try and change the settings, ONLY ONE AT A TIME, at least until you know EXACTLY what you're doing (meaning, probably several months), change one, do a few laps, see what it changes, go back to the previous setting, leave it or change it again, then do some more laps, see what happens, then change another setting, rinse repeat. This is VERY TIME CONSUMING, specially if you're a beginner because this is where you're going to figure out how to tune a car, at least the basics. 

If you want to get started, I recommend a small, lightweight, C class grip tune. Something like the miata mk1. This way you can really focus on tuning itself before you really get started in upgrading and speed tunes.

 

Of course, if anyone feel like correcting or adding something, feel free. And to the beginners, I hope this guide will help getting a good start in Forza tuning.

 

 

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Storefront Keyword (tunes): Yamadatuned
Classic JDM designs, low class grip tunes, vynils groups, kaido replays and photography.

Thanks for this! I've always used other peoples tunes and now am wanting to try to tune myself. I will be watching for comments.

me too, actually ^^

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Storefront Keyword (tunes): Yamadatuned
Classic JDM designs, low class grip tunes, vynils groups, kaido replays and photography.

I'd like to add that a setup that feels good to drive with pad might be very difficult to drive with a wheel. Good example of this would be Reventon, on pad it feels very understeery due to steering help but on wheel the setup that felt ok'ish on pad is very loose and oversteery. I've also noticed that most of wheel setups are understeery on pad.

Thumbs up for the thread.

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OrangeMoonclaw:

I'd like to add that a setup that feels good to drive with pad might be very difficult to drive with a wheel. Good example of this would be Reventon, on pad it feels very understeery due to steering help but on wheel the setup that felt ok'ish on pad is very loose and oversteery. I've also noticed that most of wheel setups are understeery on pad.

Thumbs up for the thread.

best thing is to test the setup with both. I usually drive with the wheel but I'm using the pad when I tune.

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Storefront Keyword (tunes): Yamadatuned
Classic JDM designs, low class grip tunes, vynils groups, kaido replays and photography.

I find that I have a basic set of modifications that I use for each drive configuration, RWD, AWD and FWD. They all have very different characteristics that require different base settings but for a base starting points this seems to work for me. I have bought tunes but I have better luck with my own settings.

On a side note, I have a 95 Miata Mk1 street tuned in real life. For fun I have duplicated the tune and paint in the game. I am competetive in F class with it. Yea, I have my geek card handy.

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M2

Just now seeing this thread. I dont know how I am missing these types of threads. Another good read and great info Yamada.

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R.I.P Pale Rider. Heroes get remembered, but legends never die. You will never be forgotten.

www.naughtyboytuning.freeforums.org

Very good read, will help alot of people

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YET269:

I find that I have a basic set of modifications that I use for each drive configuration, RWD, AWD and FWD. They all have very different characteristics that require different base settings but for a base starting points this seems to work for me. I have bought tunes but I have better luck with my own settings.

On a side note, I have a 95 Miata Mk1 street tuned in real life. For fun I have duplicated the tune and paint in the game. I am competetive in F class with it. Yea, I have my geek card handy.

miata mk1 was my very favorite car I ever owned. I just want one back so bad.

 

thanks for the comments, I'm pretty sure it can be helpfull to some people. When tuners talk about "tuning", it's not only "tuning", and it may not be that obvious for newcomers. Upgrading is what makes the difference, it's what makes your car what it is.

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Storefront Keyword (tunes): Yamadatuned
Classic JDM designs, low class grip tunes, vynils groups, kaido replays and photography.

i found this very useful. thank you for the thread

Yamada Man:

YET269:

I find that I have a basic set of modifications that I use for each drive configuration, RWD, AWD and FWD. They all have very different characteristics that require different base settings but for a base starting points this seems to work for me. I have bought tunes but I have better luck with my own settings.

On a side note, I have a 95 Miata Mk1 street tuned in real life. For fun I have duplicated the tune and paint in the game. I am competetive in F class with it. Yea, I have my geek card handy.

miata mk1 was my very favorite car I ever owned. I just want one back so bad.

 

thanks for the comments, I'm pretty sure it can be helpfull to some people. When tuners talk about "tuning", it's not only "tuning", and it may not be that obvious for newcomers. Upgrading is what makes the difference, it's what makes your car what it is.

 

I had a Gen 1 Miata as well, got totalled when an old guy pulled a left turn right infront of me as I was doing 50, I was so pissed... I had that thing appraised at 10 grand... It was black, lowered, and had 16 by 7 inch Rota Group N wheels also in black... that thing was a nightmare to keep clean, I once yelled at an old lady who put her hand on my car's hood after I had just had it detailed...

Nice work Yamada

Request to be stuck

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with people who keep asking about pointers on how to tune, it'd be nice to sticky this.

 

I updated the original post with my previous experiences, specially on transmission upgrades.

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Storefront Keyword (tunes): Yamadatuned
Classic JDM designs, low class grip tunes, vynils groups, kaido replays and photography.

Here's a little write-up about what I think is the most important part of a good tune, the diff.  I posted this on Nasioc a while ago. 

 

FWD - Accel: 40%+ / Decel: Mostly 0%
The more Accel you can handle, the better. If you make it high, it will get less turn-in, but be able to put the power down out of the corner. You have to strike a balance between getting the corner lined up, and when you want to put the power down to rocket out. I find 40% works well for me. I have a guy on my FL that insists that 70%-80% is the best range. For decel, I pretty much always use ZERO unless I'm getting severe lift-off oversteer. If I don't want to stiffen the front springs or raise the rear-end, I add 1% or 2% of decel.

RWD - Accel: 25%+ / Decel: 25%+
For Accel, my general rule of thumb is the most you can handle. Usually it's between 25% and about 45%. I want to feel planted, but still be able to get some oversteer when giving it the beans. As for Decel, also the most you can handle. I usually try to keep it on-par with the Accel if possible. More decel will eliminating lift-off understeer and plowing on corners like the sweepers at the beginning of Suzuka.

AWD - Front Accel: 10% to 25% / Decel: 0%, Rear Accel: 40%ish / Rear Decel: 40%ish, Center: 52% to 65%
Same rules apply for Front and Rear, although much less exaggerated on the front's standpoint. You don't need to worry about power out of corners with the front wheels, so lower will make the car turn-in better and the rear can do the out of corner acceleration. Rear just has to keep it in-line, without costing the car turn-in. The center is a personal preference thing. I like slight rear-bias, up to 65%. I usually just adjust until I get ever so slight oversteer when I really give it some nut.

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Most of the tunes and free tunes are set up for manual gears (with or without clutch). What changes to the gears should be made if you use automatic ?........ and can you tell me in laymans terms please? when people start talking about final drives and gear ratios etc I dont have a clue, I dont have a clue about tuning anyway really, but the gearing stuff is way over my head and it would be good to know how to adjust the free tunes so I can get better times or atleast so they were setup better for AT.

Cheers

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Dewstain:

Here's a little write-up about what I think is the most important part of a good tune, the diff.  I posted this on Nasioc a while ago. 

 

FWD - Accel: 40%+ / Decel: Mostly 0%
The more Accel you can handle, the better. If you make it high, it will get less turn-in, but be able to put the power down out of the corner. You have to strike a balance between getting the corner lined up, and when you want to put the power down to rocket out. I find 40% works well for me. I have a guy on my FL that insists that 70%-80% is the best range. For decel, I pretty much always use ZERO unless I'm getting severe lift-off oversteer. If I don't want to stiffen the front springs or raise the rear-end, I add 1% or 2% of decel.

RWD - Accel: 25%+ / Decel: 25%+
For Accel, my general rule of thumb is the most you can handle. Usually it's between 25% and about 45%. I want to feel planted, but still be able to get some oversteer when giving it the beans. As for Decel, also the most you can handle. I usually try to keep it on-par with the Accel if possible. More decel will eliminating lift-off understeer and plowing on corners like the sweepers at the beginning of Suzuka.

AWD - Front Accel: 10% to 25% / Decel: 0%, Rear Accel: 40%ish / Rear Decel: 40%ish, Center: 52% to 65%
Same rules apply for Front and Rear, although much less exaggerated on the front's standpoint. You don't need to worry about power out of corners with the front wheels, so lower will make the car turn-in better and the rear can do the out of corner acceleration. Rear just has to keep it in-line, without costing the car turn-in. The center is a personal preference thing. I like slight rear-bias, up to 65%. I usually just adjust until I get ever so slight oversteer when I really give it some nut.

 

wow, I usually set my diff on RWD around 60/70 accel and 40/50 deccel

whatever works.

 

as for auto gear, I don't really know, I have my friend who's very FAST in AT (landed a 4'37"xxx yesterday on kaido new downhill in... C class ! which would be rank #60 ish, 3rd or 2nd AT time there) I can ask him

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Storefront Keyword (tunes): Yamadatuned
Classic JDM designs, low class grip tunes, vynils groups, kaido replays and photography.

Please and thanks.

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Yamada Man:

Dewstain:

Here's a little write-up about what I think is the most important part of a good tune, the diff.  I posted this on Nasioc a while ago. 

 

FWD - Accel: 40%+ / Decel: Mostly 0%
The more Accel you can handle, the better. If you make it high, it will get less turn-in, but be able to put the power down out of the corner. You have to strike a balance between getting the corner lined up, and when you want to put the power down to rocket out. I find 40% works well for me. I have a guy on my FL that insists that 70%-80% is the best range. For decel, I pretty much always use ZERO unless I'm getting severe lift-off oversteer. If I don't want to stiffen the front springs or raise the rear-end, I add 1% or 2% of decel.

RWD - Accel: 25%+ / Decel: 25%+
For Accel, my general rule of thumb is the most you can handle. Usually it's between 25% and about 45%. I want to feel planted, but still be able to get some oversteer when giving it the beans. As for Decel, also the most you can handle. I usually try to keep it on-par with the Accel if possible. More decel will eliminating lift-off understeer and plowing on corners like the sweepers at the beginning of Suzuka.

AWD - Front Accel: 10% to 25% / Decel: 0%, Rear Accel: 40%ish / Rear Decel: 40%ish, Center: 52% to 65%
Same rules apply for Front and Rear, although much less exaggerated on the front's standpoint. You don't need to worry about power out of corners with the front wheels, so lower will make the car turn-in better and the rear can do the out of corner acceleration. Rear just has to keep it in-line, without costing the car turn-in. The center is a personal preference thing. I like slight rear-bias, up to 65%. I usually just adjust until I get ever so slight oversteer when I really give it some nut.

 

wow, I usually set my diff on RWD around 60/70 accel and 40/50 deccel

whatever works.

 

as for auto gear, I don't really know, I have my friend who's very FAST in AT (landed a 4'37"xxx yesterday on kaido new downhill in... C class ! which would be rank #60 ish, 3rd or 2nd AT time there) I can ask him

Don't get me wrong, it definitely depends on the car, and most definitely the amount of power.  My lower class RWD's are probably around 40-50 for accel, 55+ for decel.  I guess I should qualify this as probably B to R class, not lower.  Well, except for the FWD.

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oh ok, I do B class, but less of the A to S class and definately no R class.

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Storefront Keyword (tunes): Yamadatuned
Classic JDM designs, low class grip tunes, vynils groups, kaido replays and photography.

You should add in the things you need to fully tune your car in everything whicha are:  race brakes, race suspension, front and rear anti roll bars, differential, front bumper and rear spoiler (not need for suspension tune), race transmission (not need for suspension tune)

I'm still starting out in tuning but I've realized these are some of the most important things you need if you want to fully tune your car.

Hoping this goes into the guide.

        thanks,

                    nowak101mat