I have a G25, (and no, this isn't another why no G25 on the 360 discussion!)  However, I do use it for PS3 and PC, and still find myself wanting to play Forza and PGR4 on my 360. I have a Playseat Evolution racing chair however, and the G25 pedals bolt to the holder. Changing the wheel is acceptable to fire up the PS3 (well, livable), but changing sets of pedals is also a pain and should be avoidable. I know the clutch won't work, but it should be possible to make an adapter to match the G25 pedals' gas and brake to either 360 wheel since both are cabled to pots as well inside.

I even got the Logitech DriveFx for the 360 (sale, $50, and I also read the feedback, though not "official FFB", is good.) Anyway. I now have the 360 wireless whell and the Logitech DriveFX to try to make this work with. The pedals connect to the Xbox compatible Logitech DriveFX wheel with DB9 connector, same shell (but different pin-outs) as the G25's pedals. The Xbox pedals of course connect with RJ11. Either way, plugged into the DriveFX's DB9 or the 360 wheel's RJ11, an adapter cable should be possible if made so the pins match- it SHOULD work. I read somewhere here someone was doing it, using the G25 pedals connected to the M$ wheel, but no specifics. I opened up the Logitech DriveFX pedals and there are four wires, which makes sense:  gas, brake, +5V and ground. Each pot inside gets common +5v and ground wires, and then each pedal gets its own signal wire. The Xbox wheel's pedals are also four-wire. The G25- I have a pin-out diagram for it, and it also uses the same connections plus clutch, and some jumpered wires for extra +5v and ground.

Has anyone used G25 pedals (just brake and gas, of course) with a 360 or seen more info about it? I made a jumper last night to the DriveFX wheel and was able to get the pedals to respond, but when I hit gas it just went into reverse and stayed there, like something was wired backwards. I may have made a faulty cable though and will retry tonight with a better one. If anyone has pin-out info on the M$ pedals to that RJ11 plug or seen other info about wiring in the DriveFX, 360 wheel or G25, please let me know.

Thanks

I'm currently using my G25 pedals with my MS wheel.  They actually work great.

It seems you have the basics worked out.  You need to make sure that you have the two signal wires are  correct ,obviously..... Then you have +5v and ground:  These can be swapped and the pots will still work, but give out improper signal.

I had weirdness like you.

I found I could safely unplug my homemade harness and pedals with Forza 2 running and plug them back into the wheel and test it.  THIS COULD BE RISKY, but I live dangerous at times.  This is how I got the wiring correct.  If you short the power to ground, you will surely mess something up, so be very careful of that.


 The main telemetry screen shows throttle and brake input and will make verifying it much easier.

Good luck

Thanks, I think now more and more I just made a bad cable last night since I tried every combo of wires I could think of. I'll try again tonight.

Can you look at your home-made cable and see which of the four RJ11 pins that connect pedals to the M$ wheel you matched up to which G25 pedal pins on the DB9? Or or you at least recall how you went about testing the combos? Did you use a multimeter to find power and ground, or did you have a pin-out diagram or something? I have one I believe is correct for the G25 pedals but nothing on the M$ or DriveFX pedals I've found...

    Unfortunately, mine is a bit more complex than what you're doing due to a force sensitive brake pedal I use for pc sim racing. 

I've had my pedals (MS and G25) apart several times and changed wiring, plugs and wiring color on them, so I don't know how helpful I can be.  Especially since I'm not at home.

If you can disassemble the pedals, it will make it much easier to figure out.

Each pot will have the signal wire in the middle, the other two are power and ground.

To be compatible with the MS wheel, the brake and gas ground must be connected together.  The +5v for each pot must be connected together as well.  That just leaves the two signal wires, resulting in 4 wires.

Now if you understand all I've said above, and you open up the MS pedals and look at the plug and trace the wires to the two pots, you'll have all the info you need.  BTW, the MS pedals do NOT require the security torx bit to open, just  a standard torx.

I'll check the thread tommorrow, when I have access to my stuff.

wow, I've noticed the plug was the same on both pedal sets but I'm not that good working with cables and wiring.

anyway, if anyone would be willing to send me a custom harness so I could use my G25 pedals, I'd be more than happy to pay you something for the material, the time and of course the shipping.

anyway, if someone would be willing to do me this favor, just send me a pm please.

thank you !

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Bodido:

    Unfortunately, mine is a bit more complex than what you're doing due to a force sensitive brake pedal I use for pc sim racing. 

I've had my pedals (MS and G25) apart several times and changed wiring, plugs and wiring color on them, so I don't know how helpful I can be.  Especially since I'm not at home.

If you can disassemble the pedals, it will make it much easier to figure out.

Each pot will have the signal wire in the middle, the other two are power and ground.

To be compatible with the MS wheel, the brake and gas ground must be connected together.  The +5v for each pot must be connected together as well.  That just leaves the two signal wires, resulting in 4 wires.

Now if you understand all I've said above, and you open up the MS pedals and look at the plug and trace the wires to the two pots, you'll have all the info you need.  BTW, the MS pedals do NOT require the security torx bit to open, just  a standard torx.

I'll check the thread tommorrow, when I have access to my stuff.

Thanks, I think I'll get it working tonight with a properly made cable instead of my quick (and probably faulty) one yesterday, now that I know it works. Can you share a link or info about your brake mod- did you use a load cell, and I assume it also therefore works with the 360 still? Did the force-sensitive brake mod do anything for you on the 360 (or PS3, if you have one) - or is it just functional but not pressure sensitive on consoles? I might be willing to try that out too while I'm looking into modding it; maybe even overhang mounting too. I've seen some pics of that being done to the G25 pedals.

Well I tried to connect things as I thought they should be, and I tried to connect the G25 ground, brake, gas, and +5V to the Logitech DriveFX wheel wired port since I had that wheel connected to the rig at this time. Same pins in the DriveFX pedals' DB9 connector as on the DFP and Momo I have pin-out diagrams on, so I figured I knew how it was wired, but no dice thusfar. All I got was full on revs (gas all the way down) when gas ISN'T pressed at all. No change when pressed. No noticible change on pressing the brake. I'll play around with the wires and try some more after my son goes to bed. Maybe I'll try to the M$ Wireless wheel RJ11 instead since that's how you've got it working.

Okay, I tried to wire it to the Microsoft Wireless Wheel's RJ11. I got it hooked up and everything was reversed (full gas and brake when not pressed) so I swapped what I thought was ground and +. Then, low and behold, gas pedal from the G25 works! Used Forza 2 telemetry to see the green bar for gas pedal movement and works like a charm. Problem- however, brake pedal works also, BUT, when I press the G25 brake in about half-way, the  game also registers accellerator (lagging behind brake), to the point where if I floor the G25 brake alone, I'm getting full-on 100% brake AND gas?! Any idea what gives?

I think the issue is that the G25 pedals share a common ground according to the pin-out I have, but they have TWO +5V wires (DB9 pins 6 & 9.)  I'm not sure why the Microsoft wheel combines the +5V on the gas and brake pots, but I've got to assume this might be the issue since there are two +5V wires coming from the G25 instead of one. I tried both combining the two +5V G25 pedal leads or just using one or the other, still to no avail.

Somehow pressing the one of the two pedals on the G25 is working fine, but the way it's wired with the +5V shared on the 360 wheel, when the other G25 pedal is activated it activates both gas and brake. Does anyone have any ideas how to fix this with the G25 pedals but still keep them functional for the G25 wheel/PC/PS3 when those pedals are connected to the G25 instead of the 360 jumper cable I've made? Bodido, I'd love to know what you did to make yours work.

Thanks

    Just letting you know,  I haven't forgotten you. 

I'm going to work up a good schematic soon enough.  I can say I do have the two +5v jumped together.

Hopefully later today (it's 1:30 am LOL) I'll identify all the wires by color in the rj11 cable for you. 

As to the earlier question...  I am using a load cell for playing GT Legends and Race 07.  I took apart the pedal  assembly.  I made a mounting plate to hang the pedals for my playseat.  I took the clutch pedal apart and converted that into the load cell brake.  So now, on the PC, I use the G25 brake pedal as my clutch (race clutches should be stiff), Then the load cell brake in the middle, then of course gas on the right.  Heel-toe downshifts are friggin hard, btw.

For Forza 2, I use what is normally my clutch for the PC.  I left foot brake in Forza anyway. 

I plan to use the load cell brake for the Xbox, but it won't be easy, and will require a bit more learning for me to accomplish first.

Ive been trying to find info to do just this for past few days!

 Any chance you could post a diagram of how the wiring should be from G25 pedals end?

 Many thanks if you can make myself and a few others I know very happy!

X2 that would be very much appreciated.

I didn't take any pictures, but I made some quickie diagrams.

 Let me know if you need anything more.  

http://forums.forzamotorsport.net/forums/thread/2975695.aspx

Thank you, thank you, thank you!!

 That was perfect and I did mine today and have just tried it - only problem is the brake is on continuously when lifting off the accelerator.

 Maybe need to adjust the deadzone - which unfortunately cant do in demo, will have to try forza 2 or shift as I think you can in those games.

Did you correct your braking always on problem?

anyone confirm this works?

Fanoftheboxtoo:

anyone confirm this works?

Yes, this does work. And no, I do not have the problem listed above, my brake and throttle work just fine.

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