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The Turn 10 Studios Blog

Albus Presents: Car Tuning - A Way of Life

Our resident driving expert and Forza 2 overlord Albus (look him up on the scoreboards) has imparted some wisdom for all players on how to tune your car for 10/10ths performance on the track. Here it is, completely unabridged and mostly unedited. He sends these blog entries over in email fairly randomly so I can say that we're going to have more of these -- I just don't know when!

Enjoy...

Car Tuning - A Way of Life
By: Albus

Read: “Drive to Win” – Carroll Smith  (he also has a “Tune to win” book, but the Drive to win has enough to go on.  It’s like $14 at Amazon.com).

None of the cars in Forza 2 require a great deal of tuning.  The default setups are 85-90% good… but 10-15% of time is HUGE on a race track.  So, there is significant advantage to be gained by tuning your car.

Bang for buck:
  • Gear Ratios  (almost always too long… you lose acceleration for sake of top speed you never hit).   Gear car so you hit the last gear (5th or 6th) at red-line at the end of the longest straight away.  Then you’ll be setup well for acceleration (make sure to get clutch & tranny upgrades if you do this though since you’ll be shifting more often).

  • Downforce – I use GOBS of downforce.   I’m slower in a straight (and you can pass me there) but I’ll kill you in the corners.  Get it, use it, love it.
Dealing with oversteer and understeer: To increase understeer (same as decreasing oversteer) push all the “Front” sliders to the right just a little (bigger values) and reduce “Rear” sliders to the left (lower values) about an equal amount. Try to move sliders in both/opposing directions until you get a neutral car… I.e. if you’re going to add +5% to spring rate in the front, subtract -5% from the rear.  Add +5% to the bump stops and rebound for the front, and subtract 5% from the bump stops and rebound for the rear.   Think symmetry and you’ll stay “safe”.

Camber and caster: Next deal with camber and caster. These affect the "turn in" speeds of the car. You get better turn in the bigger these values are, but you reduce the traction-patch, so your braking is worse and your tires wear/heat up excessively on the insides. But you get better grip in turns… guess which Albus likes?   Grip in turns.  So I add camber and caster on all my setups.

Toe-in-out:  You can mess with Toe… most people don’t. Think of your tires like your feet, if you are bow-legged and your toes point away from your ankles, that’s “toe out”.  If you are “pigeon toed” (toes point towards each other) that’s Toe-in.  Toe-in helps you get bite on corner entry.   Toe-out adds stability to a “rowdy” back end (oversteer).  Keep in mind that any degrees of input here actually slow you down in a straight line… you’re creating “rolling friction” for sake of stability and better turn in.  Other elite drivers don’t have use any or much “toe”… I actually use it to gain stability.   My “speed” is not about quickness but consistency.  You can win the best lap of the race… I just want to win the race.

Brake balance/pressure:  I play with these but most folks don’t.   I actually like reducing the brake pressure 5-10%... it helps me (manual braker using a wheel) not lock-up as much.   Brake balance is very car specific… in a long wheel-base car 50/50 is fine, you can even push it forward a bit (better braking, a little less stable back-end under braking) but if you have a short wheel-base car, I like to add +1 or +2% rear brake balance which helps keep the car’s rear end from wanting to switch ends with the front when you brake and turn at the same time (which I do a lot as I “trail brake”).   If you’re ever past 5% from 50/50 you’ve probably gone too far.

All that being said… here’s my best tuning advice…

Go to Multiplayer Leaderboards, find the car you want to tune (in the appropriate class) and download setups (from the people honorable enough to post them) and “tweak”… anyone on the leaderboard (Top 10) probably had to do some amount of tuning (or plagiarizing) to get where they are. Leverage their tuning ability and try out their setups. If you don’t like it, try someone else’s… almost assuredly, you’ll find a setup that “feels good”… now go look for more setups by that person and in other cars and classes… they will probably feel similar.

I know that my Albus setups have a very similar flavor/feel because I want my cars to behave very similarly.  I like a touch of understeer while many other fast drivers favor what I would consider aggressive amounts of oversteer. I drive with an MS FFB wheel, many other drivers use a gamepad. With a gamepad you can catch an oversteering car much more easily than you can with a wheel. Hence, their ability to deal with aggressive amounts of oversteer. With a wheel you can handle high-speed turns/sweepers much more delicately than a game pad user can so I can be more precise/consistent. So, even though guys might be right next to each other (with the same car) on a leaderboard, they could have very different feeling setups.   Find a “personality” you like in a setup and then explore with minor changes… you might create something of your own that works even better for you.

That’s my quick ‘bang for the buck’ primer on tuning.


Published Friday, June 08, 2007 1:59 PM by chespace

Comments

 

ben450 said:

ferrari rock`s
June 8, 2007 6:02 PM
 

V1per45 said:

Good sound advise, I hope people read this before post new threads in the forums.
June 8, 2007 6:12 PM
 

The Last Master said:

This is good advise, Most of it was common sense.. but too have it written down for you is very convenient.  Ill be doing some tuning now... :P
June 8, 2007 6:34 PM
 

Latka said:

Grammar rocks, ben450.

Good advice from Albus.  The key is to not change too many variables at once, because if you do you won't be sure what worked and what didn't.
June 8, 2007 6:35 PM
 

FusionFace said:

I watched this guys replay on nurburgring f'n nuts. Good advice too thanks...
June 8, 2007 7:12 PM
 

TeamBZ said:

When he states info for "Dealing with oversteer and understeer:" where would I change these settings? Witch sliders?
June 8, 2007 7:33 PM
 

X Warlord said:

TeamBZ, I think he is generally speaking for your spring, bump stops, and rebound sliders in the tuning section for the car you select. Balance the adjustments out from front to back in either direction, like a scale.
June 8, 2007 9:06 PM
 

orangecow13 said:

Sweet, the part about your downforce was interesting
June 8, 2007 10:21 PM
 

dont hype the release date guy said:

This is great information and I really like the info given here. However I was hoping this would work on my Lotus Exige that I have upgraded to Class S with a 450 HP engine, racing tires, suspension and the works but it still just cannot stay on the road without sliding off the track on high-speed turns. I can baby it around the turns but then everyone passes me in a race. Maybe it's just the fact that it is RWD, Light and can't handle the HP. It's a shame because it's an excellent car in the B class but it's almost uncontrollable in S class.
June 9, 2007 12:01 AM
 

vid33nyc1 said:

wow this is great stuff.Keep it coming.It would have been nice if turn 10 put a nice reference manual for tuning and parts and what they are used for on the disc itself.Sort of like what 2k does with its sports games.
June 9, 2007 1:06 AM
 

CombatCricket said:

i agree downforce (and lots of it) and high gear ratios will speed up your times immensely when combined especially.
June 9, 2007 4:30 AM
 

mrbrown33 said:

any info on the breaks? can't get my golf to stop.
June 9, 2007 12:22 PM
 

Apoc112 said:

great advice here Albus... thanks a bunch!  i finally have a place i can point people if they have general questions
June 9, 2007 12:37 PM
 

DustinKyle said:

Thank you for the help. I've started messing around with tuning my cars and this will help me stay on the right path.
June 9, 2007 2:47 PM
 

audioeric said:

Good info here!  The only thing I disagree with is the ability to handle oversteer with the wheel.. I find it MUCH easier to handle oversteer with the wheel than with the controller..  Especially with a loose back end coming out a turn, if I get on it a bit earlier, I can feel it and react much more naturally..  Maybe it's because I'm used to getting the back end out, as I drive an S2000 daily in FL, so wet roads (afternoon TStorms) + rear wheel drive + LSD - Traction Control = interesting driving...

Anyway, great tips and I look forward to applying them!
June 9, 2007 4:04 PM
 

micanada said:

some chassis' handle ridiculous amounts of power (ie upgrading to S or U class) than others.  just throw everything on the Enzo and it handles friggin' amazing, like an arcade racer.  you can tune it a bit but it's almost perfect as is.  others will need more tuning to be OK.
June 9, 2007 9:05 PM
 

Instinct09 said:

Great advice in deed :D. I spend about 60% of my time in FM 1 tuning my cars.

I am in Australia, some marketing genius thought that it would be a good idea to let us have our copy of Forza 2, weeks after the rest of the world, so I don't have a copy yet. I was wondering if anyone can tell me if you can save multiple set ups for your car?

This would be immensely useful for setting up a car for different tracks

Its so painful reading all these articles and watching peoples paints on the net! :P

June 9, 2007 9:56 PM
 

vid33nyc1 said:

Yes you can save multiple set ups for your car :)
June 10, 2007 12:39 AM
 

BrerRabbit1972 said:

I like to set my front breaks between 53%-60%, depending on the weight and wheelbase of the car.
June 10, 2007 12:57 AM
 

Rockcrawler69 said:

Excellent write up. Thanks for sharing.
June 10, 2007 10:39 AM
 

BuiltF0RDtough said:

That advice sounded rushed and un-informational. As a fellow 'hardcore' tuner, I know that having the next step above your competitors is having a well tuned and balanced car to your preference. Dialing in a car can take upwards of 3 to 5 hours.

Not to knock your post, I'm sure the majority appreciates it. For an in depth and easy to read tuning guide which I feel explains the subject a lot better, check out this page I happened to run across. I don't know the author or even post there, but its a good read.

http://boards.gamefaqs.com/gfaqs/genmessage.php?board=932731&topic=35848490

June 10, 2007 3:25 PM
 

vid33nyc1 said:

Whats with mister ungrateful above me.It clearly says at the end that they WILL have more tuning advice like this soon.All you have to do is click news and articles on the home page.Dialing in a car takes you 3 to 5 hours?Just find a setting thats comfortable why take so much time.
June 10, 2007 8:23 PM
 

coyote said:

great info thanks to albus and all those who share tuning tips and info
June 10, 2007 9:40 PM
 

pothole0222 said:

Thanks for the advice, Professor Dumbledore! (love the name, btw! Big Harry Potter fan!) Think I might have to look up Albus on the leaderboards and download some of his setups...

--Kevin
June 11, 2007 4:18 AM
 

Ninjapaul said:

Hate to say it but either you or the game is totally wrong about brake balance. On most racing cars including the ultimate F1 cars brake balance is 70/30 in favour of the fronts.
June 11, 2007 6:41 AM
 

feuerdog said:

"....if you’re going to add +5% to spring rate in the front, subtract -5% from the rear.  Add +5% to the bump stops and rebound for the front, and subtract 5% from the bump stops and rebound for the rear.   Think symmetry and you’ll stay “safe”."

There is a reason this guy is so fast.  :)
June 11, 2007 8:02 AM
 

spooniege said:

To everyone who enjoys sim games, try setting up your springs to almost max, and shocks to about 2.5 rebound and  4.5 bump, feels like real sports susp. unfort wont work to well in real life ;) enjoy
June 11, 2007 8:48 AM
 

NoSlices said:

dont hype the release date guy:

yah, that car is just too light to handle that much hp.  i was having that problem as well until i just gave up.

Ninjapaul:

i formula 1 race car is not a 3500lb Audi S4, nuff said.
June 11, 2007 9:33 AM
 

Upshift said:

Excelent advice.. but you made a mistake... you said toe OUT increases stability and toe IN increases turn in... infact, its the complete opposite.. first of all, the details in the tuning section say that toe in increases stability and so on... second of all, i did my own test. and too much toe out made the car wobble like crazy at the slightest steering input...

aside from that, your advice was good, ive always tuned my cars but i never did anything extensive. Your guide gave me some useful tips that i haven't thought of until now. Overall, good job.
June 11, 2007 1:38 PM
 

Vitamin_J said:

The part on alignment isn't completely accurate.  More negative camber will allow the outside tires to grip more as you corner because of body roll.  Caster allows you to have more negative camber on the outside front tire as you turn in, but too much and you will lose grip.

Also, toe.  Toe out on the front will help the car with initial turn in, and a touch of toe-in on the rear will keep the car stable in a straight line.  Toe in on the front will make you understeer like crazy.  A little toe out on the rear of AWD vehicles can help them stop understeering.
June 11, 2007 1:49 PM
 

nos4atus said:

This is for the Don't Hype the release date guy. I have a Lotus Exige and absolutely love the car. I've topped it out and is a U 999 at this point. Albus' recommendations regarding downforce are definitely accurate as I have absolutely no problems keeping my car stuck to the track on straights or turns. So far it's the best handling car I have in the corral. I also use a wheel so maybe that makes a difference. Hope this helps.
June 11, 2007 2:50 PM
 

rdo3 said:

can this be put in the tunning guides section?  this is actually what most of us are looking for not any tripple screen stuff.
June 11, 2007 3:18 PM
 

BMWpower said:

yea thats great, but i hate it when it takes me 5 hours to get a good setup nad somone downloads it in 2 seconds and is able to drive the exact car as mine.
June 11, 2007 3:19 PM
 

eviltedi said:

top marks,,,,excellent info,,,,thanks
June 11, 2007 3:23 PM
 

BOOGIE said:

WISH MORE GUYS KNEW HOW TO TUNE , GOOD SOUND ADVISE.
June 11, 2007 4:17 PM
 

Bunofasitch said:

weeeee...... tunning in 3 to 5 hours!!!!!!! its gonna take longer....for a more fine tune feel.......one tip......run your cars with no assists.......then tune it......run again....youll notice a bigger difference.oh yeah,this is not a shooter, its a racing sim,  yanking the throttle in the middle of the turn is only gonna help you lean what real oversteer is........(GABBY33!!!!).BTW very good article i hope more are coming.
June 11, 2007 6:01 PM
 

evilevo said:

Sorry but the one thing that is just flat out incorrect is the segment on brake distribution where you talk about break bias in the rear making the car more stable.

All cars transfer the majority of there weight to the front of the car under braking, more bias towards the front causes a more stable braking car especially through turns. If you bias braking pressure towards the rear you are more likely to intiate rotation as the rear of the car has much less weight over it under braking, so its much more likely to break loose, or if done slightly to cause the car to turn under breaking (great for getting the car to turn in when trailbraking/breaking in corner entry I run it a little rear biased on understeery cars for this reason.

Scorke
June 11, 2007 8:50 PM
 

John - 5x Racing said:

Toe in/out revisited:

I have to disagree with Albus on one aspect of the Toe in/out portion, considering this is the way it works on my real life race car, but then again we're talking about a video game here. Toe in adds stability in a strait line, but reduces turn in quickness, ie: a more stable car. Toe out gives you more response on turn in, a quicker turn in if you want to say it that way. Not entirely different than what Albus suggests, just the part about toe-in, I think its opposite as toe out promotes bite on corner entry.
I will definitely agree with him on the strait line speed though, any amount of toe in or out will rob strait-a-way speed, as your tires are scrubbing the track surface creating rolling resistance, therefore resisting your ability to move foward. My best advice for toe in/out is on low powered cars like D or C class is to limit your use of toe in either direction, as you need all of the strait-a-way speed possible. On high powered cars like A or S class cars, give your REARS a bit of toe in to promote stability, and for the FRONT add toe in to cause a slower turn in, or add toe out to cause a quicker turn in.
I am not an expert Forza "virtual" tuner, but I am a really good "real race car" tuner. I race an SCCA Spec Miata in the southeast, and the stuff I am explaining is what works on our race car. The only reason I wanted to give my input is because Albus is suggesting "Tune to Win" by Carrol Smith, which is a good book on how to tune real race cars.

John
June 12, 2007 12:04 AM
 

John - 5x Racing said:

evilevo your exactly right about rear brake bias, that's a no-no in the real world. On a real race car if you were to bias your brakes more towards the rear the rears would lock up going into turns. Just as evilevo says it's because of the weight distribution towards the front of the car under heavy braking. You would spin out faster than a forza noob! Just for an example, on my SCCA Spec Miata race car we run a less agressive brake pad compound on the rear brakes to bias the brakes more toward the front. For all of you racing enthusiasts that wonder why we don't use a brake bias adjuster it's because we are not allowed to per the rules. We essentially "fool" the car into thinking we have adjusted the bias.
June 12, 2007 12:13 AM
 

skeme kos said:

great tuning advice Albus,it will come in handy when tuning my cars
June 12, 2007 12:26 AM
 

Ghastous said:

great tuning advice Albus think i might look for some top 10s but i aint to bad myself i have tuned my Camaro Z38 which is S class now and it can handle nurbergring which in my opinion is good
June 12, 2007 8:06 AM
 

Beefy said:

I bought the base model elise for a race i needed to do so went for the cheap option, put everything on it and its an animal, i love it,,, as long as your smooth with it it handles wicked,, and if you fancy just tearing it up you can give it the minerals out of the corner and control it with relative ease,,,, that and the noise and the straight line speed always makes me smile,,, its my fave car so far,,,i cant get enough of this game,,, i played it for 12 hours straight on saturday and cant wait to get home from work and crack on with a few beers,,, i love you turn 10 :)

I just need to get on line now and find some competition as the AI even on difficult I seem to waste,,,, as long as i stay on the black stuff anyway.,,,, have fun everyone
June 12, 2007 8:40 AM
 

IIIJUMPMAN23III said:

I think this advice is GREAT...
I do like reading the opinions of everyone when it comes to tuning.
I am new at this type of game, so I welcome all advice and when someone disagress with someone about tuning I pay even closer attention.
LOL

Eveything helps though : )
&
This game is GREAT, by far the best racing game I have played.
June 12, 2007 11:02 AM
 

Billkwando said:

Does anybody else want to contradict any other parts of the post before I don't follow the instructions out of sheer confusion?
June 12, 2007 12:56 PM
 

Scuderia Glorioso said:

To all the people with real world tuning experience, who read the parts about brake bias and alignment (and probably thought the same thing I did), I just wanted to add:

Have you noticed in the toe adjustment in the game, that positive degrees of toe (toe in) will induce more oversteer and exhibit a more twitchy feel?  At first I just assumed it was an error in the game (posted a thread about it in General Discussions).  But now having read this article, I'm wondering if it was intentionally programmed this way for the game.

I usually measure my toe settings in inches, and specifying in or out versus positive or negative.  On my e36 autocross car in real life, I specified 1/8" total toe in in the rear, and it came off the alignment rack w/ a reading of about +1.2 degrees.  But clearly toe in, and clearly more stable at higher speed corners.

Either way, interesting observation in the game - at least it is consistent with what albus is suggesting...
June 12, 2007 1:22 PM
 

Scuderia Glorioso said:

lol Billkwando,

The best advice I'd say is to just try out all the tuning adjustments yourself and see how it affects your car in a test drive - that's how I discovered the toe conundrum.  If you've got the time and patience, make sure to only dial in one setting at a time between testing, so you have a consistent baseline to compare against.
June 12, 2007 1:32 PM
 

Billkwando said:

Thanks for the advice :)

Sounds like what I did in Forza 1 (which I promptly later forgot)
June 12, 2007 4:12 PM
 

Billkwando said:

Thanks for the advice :)

Sounds like what I did in Forza 1 (which I promptly later forgot)
June 12, 2007 4:12 PM
 

Dr Dave said:

First thing... GREAT GAME DUDES.

Second thing... GREAT ADVICE DUDE.

Thanks for both,
Dr. Dave
June 12, 2007 7:06 PM
 

deedok said:

What about using differential settings to help control wheel spin, kind of like a mechanical traction control?
June 13, 2007 10:10 PM
 

Mwagon said:

"Albus, your advice is flawed and your statements are incorrect!!" LOL...Yeh, please listen to these "real" tuner's and race car drivers... they must be doing so well on the track that they have plenty of time to correct you here...LOL...or even better, the rainy day S2000 drifter!! (wow..sideways in the rain...there's some sound racing experience!!) Also, are the ones that disagree with his advice at the top of the leader board? Albus, I say you challenge each one that corrected you to race! Let that decide. There is good general advice here..I think that's all he was trying to provide. So just say "good article/advice" and save your "I race cars for a living" pickup lines for the bar...there are no chicks here...BTW..did I mention I go fast in my car and on my bike almost every day? LOL!!!
June 14, 2007 11:29 AM
 

King Jenko said:

i have just got forza 2 and was an avid forza player before. There are some good points on car tuning here but remeber not everyone drives the same. your setup has to fit with your indvidual driving stye.i always tune all aspects of my cars and i even have friends try then out see what they think and if they think the setup can be improved. i always start with gear ratios, breaks and tyre pressure then do some laps to see what the car is doing.its time for suspension and camber adjustments. i will then change the cars downforce settings. last is the diff this can be very helpful just try to think where you need the most torc. when ever i change the settings of anything i wiil do a few laps and test for improvement. can i go round that corner faster? can i break later for this turn? if you just chang a load of settings all at the same time it can get confusing so i always sugest to adjust indvidual settings test and adjust again. good stuff tho guys keep it up.
June 14, 2007 3:17 PM
 

Scuderia Glorioso said:

Mwagon, I'm pretty sure no one here claimed they "race cars for a living."  That's not to say that some of us don't race or compete with them for a hobby.  Nor is it to say that amateur racers can't have extensive knowledge on tuning and vehicle dynamics.

All we were saying (or at least I was) was informing everyone of the inconsistencies of the game compared to real life.  I contemplated even posting anything at all, but figured it might at least shed some light/save some time for other people diving into the tuning section right away assuming what they were used to in the real world would apply directly to their in game cars.

So at the very least, our posts actually hold some merit; which is more than I can say for your OMG LOL nonsense.
June 14, 2007 4:17 PM
 

murphy said:

the brief outline guide worked for a tuning novice like me. I tuned an c class astra following the guide last night, tested it, say positive results so then applied what, I thought, may fix problems I was having with the car. I ended up making the car not only quicker on the straight but the 0-60 n 0-100 benchmark readers improved by nearly half a second and a secong respectfully.

nice one, cheers. I never reaslised tuning was such an important part of the game.
June 15, 2007 10:18 AM
 

Duk Dodgers said:

I will try some of your tuning tips today.  This is the first game I owned since the original GT from Playstation, I can see now that since this game is much more realistic I have to approach things in a different manner.

Thanks a bunch.
June 15, 2007 10:50 AM
 

DirrtyCraig said:

very helpful info, thanks alot!
June 16, 2007 2:49 PM
 

drumma022 said:

Every body is saying that Albus is wrong about Toe, however it states that

"Toe-out adds stability to a “rowdy” back end (oversteer). "

Nothing wrong with this.
June 16, 2007 4:05 PM
 

Zaxex said:

10  Thumbs up!
I'm one of the people who're into games ina  big way but know little of cars. While Forza simplifies the tuning and upgrading processes with bars showing the speed going from 5.1 to 5.2 for example. I find myself reading all the explanations of Tuning options and upgrade parts. Though i still find some of the options a tad confusing, this guide's phenomental, thanks!
June 16, 2007 9:33 PM
 

GTBJMZ said:

Well done.. I'll try the GOBS of downforce next time!  
June 17, 2007 12:42 AM
 

Absent Atavism said:

how do you turn off posting your setup?...thal all i want 2 know but thx for the guide..its not as grand as the PRIMA 1 but tis still helpyfull
June 17, 2007 8:15 AM
 

ToxicUndead said:

thanks for the tips
June 17, 2007 10:59 AM
 

junglecat202p said:

There's something I keep explaining over and over again to buddies of mine, tune the gearbox first, make sure it redlines just before the brakingpoint on the longest straight on any given track. I'm so glad to see that advise here.

That said, on really twisty tracks, tuning the gearbox is a one way ticket to hell. The snake tracks for instance are downright evil and you're actually better off with forgetting about the gearbox altogether; some tracks won't have you above 3rd gear anyway. Only when you need to shift at an awkward point, tune for topspeed so you can stay in the powerband of the gear that works for you.

Another way of dealing with it, is to get those blasted tracks out of the way and never look back.
June 17, 2007 9:06 PM
 

spike3 said:

i like it
June 17, 2007 10:13 PM
 

jp444 said:


YES - Thanks,

Driving aside, It's frustrating getting smoked by a superior tuned car. At least this is a start in the right direction into an otherwise confusing conversation for novices like myself.
June 19, 2007 5:13 PM
 

RickRule said:

If anybody has any cool cars they would like to send I would appriciate it.

gamertag: ii slickrick ll
June 19, 2007 8:05 PM
 

Locked1 said:

Hey. Is the semetry thing all correct? He makes it sound like everything should be countered. I am assuming when increasing the negative camber from -.5   to -1.0 I want to do this to both front and rear correct? or opposite with rear to 0.0?? Thanks
June 20, 2007 12:44 AM
 

bulldog1 said:

Grip is a direct function of weight. Push the stubby in front of you across the table, easy. Now put your hand on top of it & try to push it, much harder. Same with tyres. The more weight on them the harder they are to slide. Handling is all about weight transfer. Ever wondered why the inside front always locks up first? It's because both fronts have equal brake pressure (force or push) but cornering has transferred the weight to the outside front.  The guys with the Lotus'; try softening the front suspension & both sway bars a little to put some weight over the outside tyres. Also, a little front toe out will help turn-in, too much though & it'll want to dart. A little rear toe-in will also help you put the power down. Two things: There's more time to be made in slower corners than fast; & concentrate on getting the corners leading onto the straights just right.
June 20, 2007 6:21 PM
 

bulldog1 said:

Locked1 - Symmetry is a bit misleading. What you want is balance. Countering everything will get you lost. Just change one thing at a time, do a few laps & compare the times & how the car feels. Find a circuit that has a good combination of straights & corners & test there.
June 20, 2007 6:30 PM
 

Frenzied Dragon said:

wow this seems pretty helpful, ima go try sum of this see how it works out.
June 20, 2007 6:49 PM
 

EduBreak said:

Your advice has given me some much needed knowledge... I have now set even quicker times... Great work!!!
June 21, 2007 5:02 AM
 

slyrichie said:

good advice works well too
June 22, 2007 2:53 AM
 

hellshocker said:

thanks for the advice it really help me out big time
June 22, 2007 7:57 AM
 

jackandieu said:

legend - thanks for the adivce maye.
June 22, 2007 5:06 PM
 

ImHighButHey said:

I thought I was the only one that used "gobs" of downforce. But yes, it really, really, really helps.
June 23, 2007 3:21 PM
 

King Jenko said:

i have alot of good times on the forza scoreboards. Yes its true on alot of tracks tryes and loads of down force is key. but your not gunna beat me on a track where the power is open for a long time if you have "gobs" of downforce. look at the track and add up the options. i sometimes have to try 3 or 4 diffferent cars before i get the right build. i recommend on some tracks just to use a forza front wing only and on others no adjustable downforce at all. you can stiil build a very good car with no downforce but setup is more key.
June 25, 2007 10:16 AM
 

VILLEN32 said:

IM COOL!
June 25, 2007 6:44 PM
 

speedinginharlem said:

GREAT POST. it takes some cars longer to tweak than others but if you want the best possible chance to let someone read your back logos then thats the way to go, otherwise restart will be your best friend
June 28, 2007 10:31 PM
 

Renault Driver said:

This will make for  for great game play.Keep on tweeking
June 30, 2007 12:57 PM
 

JimmyHolland said:

Good advise, thanks
July 7, 2007 11:39 AM
 

XeRo FuZioN said:

How do you download setups?
July 8, 2007 12:26 AM
 

Megatron2k7 said:

I am a little surprised that so many of you didnt think you needed to tune your cars much. Its one of the most important aspects of the game. This post is helpful , but to be honest it says a lot of the same things your game will already tell you just by hitting the  "Y" button in the tuning area. I do have one little piece of advise that some of you may find useful. Look at the tuning setups on some of the  "R" class cars. Find one that is similar to the car you are trying to tune, and see how its tuned compared to yours. Try to emulate a few of the tuning aspects from the race car, and you should at least be staring off in the right neighborhood with your car. One more thing to remember is that when you are testing your car, dont forget to let your tires warm up before you really judge what your tuning changes have done. Thanks for the post, its great that more people are trying to tune their cars , and a lot of them may not have tried if not for posts like this.  Oh ,  one more thing, try to remember its not a demolition derby out there in the first corner. lol.
July 8, 2007 1:52 PM
 

I DA I REAPER said:

thanks for taking the time to do this, give me a bit of knowledge on the effects of each one which is always nice to know. going to tune now will have a go now and find somthing for me that fits. Nice one.
July 9, 2007 2:43 PM
 

mrcus said:

i have a 900bhp ferrari f430. I found it hard to keep on the road. Thanks for sharing you downforce tips with us, Albus!
July 9, 2007 3:11 PM
 

Leftcross said:

i drive an eclipse gsx in the d class but what can i do after all the adjustment youve suggested but i cant turn very fast times at Tsukuba do to the last turn what can i do to give me an added boost
July 10, 2007 1:27 AM
 

puremad said:

Some great tips there guys !! i have the perfect set up for me but one thing is letting it down is gears + diff ! im just not getting it together any body help me understand ? what im am going to do is what it states in this guide make it redline in all gears correctly not just 1-4 get 5-6 in too coz im not using them now maybe little bit of 5th if that !
another thing is the sliders in the differecial option when i put 40% to acceleration am i putting 40% into the full diff or in the lsd part of it ?
and is deseleration meaning drag once lifted off ?
understanding this simple tool will comfirm what im doing wrong
cheers guys
July 12, 2007 11:17 AM
 

Chip 6 007 said:

Nice work.
July 15, 2007 9:16 AM
 

Megatron2k7 said:

Hey guys, I found some interesting real - life suspension and tire tuning in this tech sheet that will help a lot of you understand how to tune your cars better. Enjoy.

http://www.wtrscca.org/tech.htMS
July 15, 2007 1:21 PM
 

Megatron2k7 said:

Here is that link again. I screwed up entering it on the obove post. This one will work.  Check it out.

http://www.wtrscca.org/tech.htm
July 15, 2007 1:30 PM
 

mrcus said:

how do u set up a ferrari f430 with full mods for sebring, because you cant handle it. im doing the race for the 330 P4 ferrari. is it any good?
July 16, 2007 7:51 AM
 

dodot said:

thank you...you made it much easier to understand by writing it.  definately will tune my car b4 i go to work...:)
July 27, 2007 7:57 AM
 

dodot said:

thank you...you made it much easier to understand by writing it.  definately will tune my car b4 i go to work...:)
July 27, 2007 7:57 AM
 

Fakaro said:

I just started playing with tuning the cars and wow what a different a little adjustment makes.

Best example I have right now is playing with the rebound and bump in the suspension for Laguna Seca. When you hit any of the corners where the suspension loads hard at the apex (Corkscrew, Rainey Curve) a change in the rebound makes a HUGE difference in reducing the oversteer when the suspension loads up. This change alone let me get on the gas harder out of those corners and I dropped a full second off my best time at that track.

Thanks a ton for the write up.. I can't wait to get home and really start putting the tuning to work for me.
August 3, 2007 1:51 PM
 

BOABSTER69 said:

Thanks for the great tips cheers mate.  
August 3, 2007 8:59 PM
 

stoneyboarder68 said:

another great way to tune a car and learn what small changes do to your setup,is to time trial for a tournament....I found this was a great way to shave time from laps!!!!!
August 6, 2007 10:09 PM
 

gamekillia904 said:

ford gt40 is sweet i cant get 262 oyt of it though can you help me
September 9, 2007 1:08 PM
 

WhiteDog said:

Camper og no camper. I find the guide realistic to the real racing world, but not for the game. If you look at racingcars from the real world (DTC, BTCC etc) they ALL have a huge amount of negative camper on the wheels (4-6 degrees negative). I tried tuning a car to DTC specs, 100% and ran like 20 laps. Then I reset the camper to about -0,3 on front and rear and on lap 2, I beat my best time. So yes, it works in real world racing and in theory, but NOT in the game.
September 28, 2007 2:59 AM
 

john rook said:

i think this is garbage it did nothing for me. just experiment on ur own. this is not wat i expected it to be. my 1969 charger A class on nissian speedway is 5th on fastest lap and  this was all before i read this i also have the fastest saleen s7 on the same track in the game. no thanks to this tard. it is helpful for newbs but not wat i was looking for. if need help tunning cars send shaggyorange or my other gamer tag captiancrunch05. i no its spelt wrong i messed up when creating it.
November 27, 2007 5:13 PM
 

FULLMETALSKILLZ said:

Can Anyone explain for certain cars which setups are best i race U's and there are always people with better tune's in the same model.
July 21, 2008 10:28 AM
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